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#1
March 4th 04, 12:45 PM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
I started working out on my roller trainer. I have been spinning on a
stationary for a little while and have not had any problems with my hands bothering me. Now on my bike and rollers my hands and neck are both bothering me. I am keeping my elbows bent and not gripping hard at all.and was wondering if there is something wrong with my bike geometry? Is there a site that goes over if you have a part of your body bothering you it could be this or that? Back and neck are not that comfortable either. Stem too low compared to seat? Thanks, Curt 
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#2
March 4th 04, 02:01 PM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
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#3
March 4th 04, 09:09 PM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
Curt wrote:
Now on my bike and rollers my hands and neck are both bothering me. Back and neck are not that comfortable either. Stem too low compared to seat? "David Kerber" wrote: Possibly; or stem too long (stretching you out horizontally) will do it too. Try playing with your bar positioning; it costs you nothing but a few minutes to try lots of different setting. With a threadless headset/stem it takes a little more effort/expense. In any case I'm with David in suspecting bars too low and/or too far away. I've recently stumbled upon a source of reasonably priced ($20) threadless steerer road stems (26.0 or 31.8 bar clamps) that come in geometries (40 degrees, various reaches) usually reserved for MTB comfort stems. http://parts.spicercycles.com/site/i...&Category=1959 Might be worth the $20 to see if it moves your position in the right direction by bringing the bars up and back...
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#5
March 4th 04, 10:38 PM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
Somebody wrote:
too. Try playing with your bar positioning; it costs you nothing but a few minutes to try lots of different setting. On Thu, 4 Mar 2004 15:09:26 -0600, "Robert Canon" wrote: With a threadless headset/stem it takes a little more effort/expense. In If it takes more expense to get the same amount of adjustment range, then you lack imagination. It definitely doesn't take more effort. Here's the strategy for trying stuff with a threadless: - Spacers allow fine adjustment of height - Flip the stem for a larger adjustment, unless it's exactly 90 degrees from the steerer (which is uncommon) - You only need one allen wrench for the 4 or 6 screws you'll use - You won't need to adjust anything or re-wrap your bar Now, it's arguably as easy to adjust height with a threaded stem; some people are quick with the headset wrench and quick with re-adjusting the headset. Correct me if I'm wrong about what's required to change the height of a threaded stem. Also, threaded stems _can_ be had with removable plates as are common on threadless, so you don't have to slide the stem off the bar, although threaded stems more commonly do not have the two-bolt removable plate. However, it's a big project to try a different reach with threaded. With threadless, it's no more effort than is height on either system, _and_ it's cheaper too (not "a little more effort/expense"). Some threadless road stem prices @ Nashbar: Nashbar, 7 degree, 5 reach options, $10 each. ITM, 5 degree, 140mm, $10. Profile, 16 degree, 120mm, $13 Profile, 74 degree, 120 or 130mm, $13 Profile, 0 degree, 7 reach options, $13 each These are the first stems to come up when sorted by price. The first _threaded_ road stem prices @ Nashbar: Zoom, unspecified (appears 0 degree), 5 reach options, $15 Giant, 17 degree _drop_, 5 reach options, $15 These are followed by one more inexpensive threadless and then the prices go up steeply. I'll note that EVERY stem listed above, of either type, has a two-bolt removable handlebar clamp, except the ITM threadless, which has the slide-off clamp more commonly found on threaded. However, neither of the inexpensive threaded stems offer a rise angle, nor the adjustment range available in the threadless stems, which can rise _or_ drop, depending on how you mount them. Is there anybody here who really needs to drop? I suppose Fabrizio, who must have a '7'-shaped stem; and maybe a TT-specific or ultra-aggressive race bike needs bars _lower_ than the headset. OTOH, many people need to rise -- for example, the OP of this thread, myself, and most other people who find themselves fooling around with their stem. So, the price is nearly the same, close enough to call it even. The height adjustment range of a cheap threadless is as much or more than that of a cheap threaded, unless your steerer is cut so short that no spacers at all can be fit (be pretty angry at whoever sold you that fork or bike for that!). The reach adjustment is a 90 second job with the threadless stems; can you say the same for threaded? Both systems are fine, but to say that adjustment is more difficult and/or more expensive with threadless is fallacious. The opposite is quite true for many, but even for the retrogrouches, threadless, is certainly no worse (once they become rational). I've just checked Nashbar for MTB stems, and the threaded MTB stems are much more competitive on price, as well as offering rise instead of drop. Adjustable threadless stems are easily found for $15 or $20 (depending which model) at Nashbar. Adjustable threaded stems exist, but seem a bit difficult to find lately. This is the only way to adjust reach without trying lots of different stems, but then height changes with reach. I found all this out when I bought my road bike. I had some difficulty with handlebar position, and was able to futz around with it myself rather easily, thanks to threadless stems. At the time, I did not know what I know now, and was not capable of doing much on the bike, but the stem was easy. Since then, I've amassed quite a collection of bikes, and have realized something else about a modern thing commonly described as 100% market hype and detrimental: compact geometry. The bike with the threadless stem has compact geometry, which works better for my compact body geometry -- my inseam is a bit short for my reach, so the lower top tube protects my sensitive bits when I make sudden moves off of the saddle to a stop. The clearance is close on regular-geometry bikes that fit my reach. It's not terrible, I can ride both types safely; but somebody with even more compact dimensions than myself would require a compact frame, or a regular frame too small with an _really_ long stem. -- Rick "Let the stem war begin!" Onanian
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#6
March 4th 04, 11:05 PM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
Rick Onanian wrote:
Now, it's arguably as easy to adjust height with a threaded stem; some people are quick with the headset wrench and quick with re-adjusting the headset. Correct me if I'm wrong about what's required to change the height of a threaded stem. OK, I will. ;-) It's much EASIER to change the height of the bars with a threaded stem. Loosen the binder bolt, move the stem up or down, retighten the binder bolt. You can do this in 5-10 seconds if you've got the allen wrench in your hand. Also, threaded stems _can_ be had with removable plates as are common on threadless, so you don't have to slide the stem off the bar, although threaded stems more commonly do not have the two-bolt removable plate. True enough... but... However, it's a big project to try a different reach with threaded. With threadless, it's no more effort than is height on either system, _and_ it's cheaper too (not "a little more effort/expense"). If you have one of the stems you describe above (pop-front, threaded), changing reach is easier than with a threadless setup since you don't have to futz around with the headset preload or spacers. Both systems are fine, but to say that adjustment is more difficult and/or more expensive with threadless is fallacious. The opposite is quite true for many, but even for the retrogrouches, threadless, is certainly no worse (once they become rational). Wanna race? I can easily change the height of my stem in 5-10 seconds. Can you: Loosen the stem binder bolt(s) Remove the top cap Pull the stem off the steer tube Reposition the spacers Reinstall the stem Reinstall the top cap Reset the headset bearing preload Snug up the stem's binder bolt(s)... .... in 5 to 10 seconds? If so, your hands must be a virtual blur! Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame
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#7
March 4th 04, 11:41 PM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 16:05:48 -0700, Mark Hickey
wrote: Wanna race? I can easily change the height of my stem in 5-10 seconds. Can you: SNIP wrench mastery sequence ... in 5 to 10 seconds? If so, your hands must be a virtual blur! "S#!+. I know bicycle maintenance!" "Show me." *diffident taunting gesture* -Luigi
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#8
March 5th 04, 12:11 AM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
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#9
March 5th 04, 03:02 AM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 16:05:48 -0700, Mark Hickey
wrote: Rick Onanian wrote: re-adjusting the headset. Correct me if I'm wrong about what's required to change the height of a threaded stem. OK, I will. ;-) It's much EASIER to change the height of the bars with a threaded stem. Loosen the binder bolt, move the stem up or down, retighten the binder bolt. You can do this in 5-10 seconds if you've got the allen wrench in your hand. I stand corrected. That procedure has never worked that easily for me; I've always had to futz around with the headset lockring nuts and such. It's never been a simple turn the allen screw and pull. However, it's a big project to try a different reach with threaded. With threadless, it's no more effort than is height on either system, _and_ it's cheaper too (not "a little more effort/expense"). If you have one of the stems you describe above (pop-front, threaded), changing reach is easier than with a threadless setup since you don't have to futz around with the headset preload or spacers. Why would you be bothered with preload or spacers just to change the reach on threadless? If preload and spacers were configured well before, and you only want to change reach, just change the reach. Wanna race? I can easily change the height of my stem in 5-10 seconds. Can you: Remove the top cap snip I forgot about the top cap. That adds another second and a half. ... in 5 to 10 seconds? If so, your hands must be a virtual blur! I can't do it in 5 to 10 seconds, but I can do it in under two minutes. I've never done anything to a threaded stem so quickly, nor was it as intuitive. No instructions required for threadless. -- Rick Onanian
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#10
March 5th 04, 05:45 AM
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hands and neck bothering me. Geometry?
David Kerber wrote:
says... Wanna race? I can easily change the height of my stem in 5-10 seconds. Can you: Loosen the stem binder bolt(s) Remove the top cap Pull the stem off the steer tube Reposition the spacers Reinstall the stem Reinstall the top cap Reset the headset bearing preload Snug up the stem's binder bolt(s)... ... in 5 to 10 seconds? If so, your hands must be a virtual blur! The best of all is my setup, with a threaded fork with a threadless adapter: I can swap just the stem for reach, and can raise or lower the height just like a threaded stem, and I never have to mess with bearings. A little heavier, but a lot more versatile. I had one of those on my wife's bike (because I was constantly changing the stem on it). Just like you say, it was the "ultimate pizza combo" in terms of adjustment - not to mention you could move the "threaded part" up and down as well as the stem up and down the shaft (without futzing around with the spacers). But yeah... it WAS kind of heavy. Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame
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