SRAM powerlink question

Bob wrote:
How do I undo the SRAM powerlink ? (Oh, sure it seems obvious
to you but I haven't got a clue :-)

You're gonna get your thumbs dirty! Press on opposite ends of the link
while at the same time "pulling" the plates together. It usually takes me a
little time to sort of grind out the grunge in there, and then it's obvious
how it works.

Play around with it a little; you'll get it.

BS (no, really)

Bill Sornson wrote:
Bob wrote:
How do I undo the SRAM powerlink ? (Oh, sure it seems obvious
to you but I haven't got a clue :-)

You're gonna get your thumbs dirty! Press on opposite ends of the link
while at the same time "pulling" the plates together. It usually takes me a
little time to sort of grind out the grunge in there, and then it's obvious
how it works.

Play around with it a little; you'll get it.

BS (no, really)

I agree with Bill, but I think that everyone visualizes this in a
slightly different fashion. Here's my "vision":

1. Get the chain on the small chainring and the small sprocket - so
you have the easiest slack situation to deal with.
2. Fold the chain so it makes a "U" - with only the powerlink at the
apex.
Yup, your hands get grungy at this point.
3. I do this with my left hand, as I am right handed (you'll see why
in a second).
4. With your left hand(still isolating the powerlink in a "U" shape),
take your thumb and index finger and squeeze the two side plates of the
powerlink together (i.e. push the two large flat surfaces towards the
center of the chainline) and hold.
5. Now, while looking top-down on the rectangle that the powerlink
makes, take your right thumb and index finger and push two diagonally
opposite corners towards each other.
6. And, voila!, the links should magically slide towards each other.

7. Now, pull the two slide plates apart.

I hope that's not too overstated and confusing. Once you do it a
couple of times you'll wonder why you ever asked. But, then you'll
wonder why anyone would ever not use this type of system. And, then
you will have your own version of how to perform this motion.
Wonderful ;-)

-- spin

Bob wrote:
On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 00:36:39 GMT, "Bill Sornson"
wrote:

Bob wrote:
How do I undo the SRAM powerlink ? (Oh, sure it seems obvious
to you but I haven't got a clue :-)

You're gonna get your thumbs dirty! Press on opposite ends of the
link while at the same time "pulling" the plates together. It
usually takes me a little time to sort of grind out the grunge in
there, and then it's obvious how it works.

Play around with it a little; you'll get it.

BS (no, really)

Do you mean "pull" like when you free up a sticky link after
re-riviting a chain?

Well, in that sense it's more "push" I guess. Press your thumbs /inwards/
while at the same time squeezing the QL.

Hell, wait a second...

"The powerlink is very easy to use; just squeeze the sideplates toward each
other, then push the ends of the chain toward each other. This removes the
opposing tension which holds the link in place and the link pops right out
with the flick of a finger." -- some MTBR person

A trick I use is to ziptie the derailleur cage to the chain stay, taking out
all tension so it's easier to manipulate the chain.

Keep trying!

Per Bill Sornson:
Play around with it a little; you'll get it.

I agree. Thought it was a real PITA until I got a feel for it. Now they just
come right apart.
--
PeteCresswell

A trick I use is to ziptie the derailleur cage to the chain stay, taking out
all tension so it's easier to manipulate the chain.

I made a reusable tool out of a coathanger. I cut a six inch long
straight piece and bent the ends into slightly more than 90 degree
hooks. After shifting to the smallest cog and chainring, I pull a
short loop of chain centering on the PowerLink and then use the wire
hooked through the chain on either side of the loop to hold it slack.
Makes it very easy to concentrate on opening the link without worrying
about where the chain is going to slip once the link is open.
Likewise, when reassembling it holds things together while you focus on
closing the link. There's no tension on the link until you remove the
wire.

Pat Clancy

On 19 Sep 2005 10:00:05 -0700, wrote:

I made a reusable tool out of a coathanger. I cut a six inch long
straight piece and bent the ends into slightly more than 90 degree
hooks. After shifting to the smallest cog and chainring, I pull a
short loop of chain centering on the PowerLink and then use the wire
hooked through the chain on either side of the loop to hold it slack.
Makes it very easy to concentrate on opening the link without worrying
about where the chain is going to slip once the link is open.
Likewise, when reassembling it holds things together while you focus on
closing the link. There's no tension on the link until you remove the
wire.

Many topeak and other brand multitools come with a commercial version of
that tool attached somewhere hidden.


Jasper

In theory, the various directions given should work. Except that ever
since SRAM took over the design from SuperLink, the two plates have
NEVER "easily slid" anywhere.

I always have to use pliers ti get them to click into their respective
positions.

- -

"May you have the winds at your back,
And a really low gear for the hills!"

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

Chris'Z Corner
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 21:45:45 -0400, (Chris
Zacho "The Wheelman") wrote:

In theory, the various directions given should work. Except that ever
since SRAM took over the design from SuperLink, the two plates have
NEVER "easily slid" anywhere.

I always have to use pliers ti get them to click into their respective
positions.


well have you removed the tension off the chain? I take the chain off
the chainring. plus a little bit of lube will help. my first one was
like that but since then I can do them with my fingers.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Steve Knight writes:

In theory, the various directions given should work. Except that
ever since SRAM took over the design from SuperLink, the two plates
have NEVER "easily slid" anywhere.

I always have to use pliers to get them to click into their
respective positions.

Well have you removed the tension off the chain? I take the chain
off the chainring plus a little bit of lube will help. My first one
was like that but since then I can do them with my fingers.

This has come up a few times. To disengage the link, (made of mirror
imaged parts) both side plates must be pushed together the amount of
the lateral clearance between link plates... that clearance that
allows the chain to bend sideways to cross over between chainwheel and
off center rear sprockets. This allows the mushroom heads of the pins
to disengage the recesses in which they reside.

Plate clearance is reduced by road grit with use, preventing pushing
the plates together enough to allow the pins to slide in their slots.
Using pliers diagonally across the link at the fixed ends of its pins
will simultaneously compress the link and slide it toward the open
position.

Only in pristine clean condition does this work easily manually.

Jobst Brandt

wrote in message
...
Steve Knight writes:

In theory, the various directions given should work. Except that
ever since SRAM took over the design from SuperLink, the two plates
have NEVER "easily slid" anywhere.

I always have to use pliers to get them to click into their
respective positions.

Well have you removed the tension off the chain? I take the chain
off the chainring plus a little bit of lube will help. My first one
was like that but since then I can do them with my fingers.

This has come up a few times. To disengage the link, (made of mirror
imaged parts) both side plates must be pushed together the amount of
the lateral clearance between link plates... that clearance that
allows the chain to bend sideways to cross over between chainwheel and
off center rear sprockets. This allows the mushroom heads of the pins
to disengage the recesses in which they reside.

Plate clearance is reduced by road grit with use, preventing pushing
the plates together enough to allow the pins to slide in their slots.
Using pliers diagonally across the link at the fixed ends of its pins
will simultaneously compress the link and slide it toward the open
position.

Only in pristine clean condition does this work easily manually.

Jobst Brandt

J. Brandt.
I was trying to dig up the article, but couldn't find it....
I can't recall the exact words, but you mentioned in one of your articles
that you had a quick disconnect chain link come lose in the 13t cog because
it was covered with mud and actually dislodged the connector? Was it
because of the smaller diameter cog pattern you were riding in, or the mud
itself, or both?
-tom