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Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)



 
 
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  #11  
Old February 9th 16, 09:36 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
David Scheidt
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Posts: 1,346
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

Emanuel Berg wrote:
avid Scheidt writes:

: What does one do in this situation?
:
: Disconnect the cable from the derailleurs. See if
: the derailleurs move easilly through their entire
: range of motion, and lube the various pivot points
: on them. If they do, they're probably okay.

o you use the same lube as for the chain?

:Perhaps I should apply 5-56/WD-40 first to oust grains
:in the machinery?

Both of those are reasonable plans, assuming your use a real oil on
your chain, and not wax.

I expect your cables are shot, and that the rest will work with
cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment. 7 speed stuff is pretty
durable.

--
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  #12  
Old February 10th 16, 01:19 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
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Posts: 318
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

David Scheidt writes:

Perhaps I should apply 5-56/WD-40 first to oust
grains in the machinery?


Both of those are reasonable plans, assuming your
use a real oil on your chain, and not wax.


The oil I have is "universal oil" (100 ml) bought on
a supermarket for car tools and spare parts.
It doesn't say anything else about it. The chain lube
I have is CRC Chain Lube - it says "Adhesive
Lubricant" on the can.

I expect your cables are shot, and that the rest
will work with cleaning, lubrication, and
adjustment. 7 speed stuff is pretty durable.


OK! I get back to you tomorrow God willing.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #13  
Old February 10th 16, 01:26 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
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Posts: 318
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

Jeff Liebermann writes:

You must have visited the site like five seconds
after I submitted the post. Anyway now it is done.


Nope. I checked it again at about 0800 PST on
a different machine. I also cleared the browser
cache and DNS cache to make sure I was not looking
at a stale page or site. The pages now work, after
you fixed them for Sir Ridesalot.


Indeed! I understand now how this happened.
Because I was certain I had changed the permissions
already. But I changed them on the server! So when
I transmitted files from my computer, the permissions
were still non-read on the local machine. But because
the files were there, they were not transmitted, only
silently reset to the old non-read mode.

--
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http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #14  
Old February 12th 16, 12:26 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Lars Lehtonen[_3_]
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Posts: 2
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Usually the answer to STI problems is:

Step one: Flush it with WD-40 and the replace the displaced grease with
Tri-Flow.

Step two: If that didn't work, replace it.

- ---
Lars Lehtonen
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  #15  
Old February 13th 16, 07:08 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
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Posts: 318
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

Lars Lehtonen writes:

Usually the answer to STI problems is:


STI = Shimano Total Integration

Is that what I have? How do I see that?
What's totally integrated?

Step one: Flush it with WD-40 and the replace the
displaced grease with Tri-Flow.


By "it", you mean the derailers?

OK, Tri-Flow.

Step two: If that didn't work, replace it.


Again, what do you mean by "it"?

--
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  #16  
Old February 13th 16, 07:50 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
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Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

On 2/13/2016 12:08 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Lars Lehtonen writes:

Usually the answer to STI problems is:


STI = Shimano Total Integration

Is that what I have? How do I see that?
What's totally integrated?

Step one: Flush it with WD-40 and the replace the
displaced grease with Tri-Flow.


By "it", you mean the derailers?

OK, Tri-Flow.

Step two: If that didn't work, replace it.


Again, what do you mean by "it"?


STi is a Shimano brand name but we take now 'STi' as a
general term for indexed gear systems. I think he meant your
shift levers and yes a light spray such as WD40 is often
helpful inside them. Don't disassemble the shifter, just
copiously flush it through any/all apertures. Newspapers on
the floor recommended.

Investigate your cables first, they are the most likely
source of your troubles and cheap to replace. As others have
replied here previously, disconnect the cable anchors to see
if the changers move easily by hand. If they do, replace
cable set.

Control cables can be cleaned and lubricated (if not kinked
or split or frayed) but they are so cheap that your cleaning
time may be worth more. YMMV, as always.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #17  
Old February 14th 16, 12:34 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
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Posts: 318
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

AMuzi writes:

STi is a Shimano brand name but we take now 'STi' as
a general term for indexed gear systems. I think he
meant your shift levers and yes a light spray such
as WD40 is often helpful inside them.
Don't disassemble the shifter, just copiously flush
it through any/all apertures.


OK!

Newspapers on the floor recommended.


Ha ha! I'm not that much a beginner! I have a stack of
newspapers around but the floor is wood and has seen
much worse than dirt and "dislocated" grease

Investigate your cables first, they are the most
likely source of your troubles and cheap to replace.
As others have replied here previously, disconnect
the cable anchors to see if the changers move easily
by hand. If they do, replace cable set.

Control cables can be cleaned and lubricated (if not
kinked or split or frayed) but they are so cheap
that your cleaning time may be worth more.


OK.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #18  
Old February 22nd 16, 04:06 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
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Posts: 318
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

AMuzi writes:

Investigate your cables first, they are the most
likely source of your troubles and cheap to replace.
As others have replied here previously, disconnect
the cable anchors to see if the changers move easily
by hand. If they do, replace cable set.
Control cables can be cleaned and lubricated (if not
kinked or split or frayed) but they are so cheap
that your cleaning time may be worth more.


Now I have replaced the wires and cleaned and
lubricated the cables.

The controllers were a bit slow to get free and open
but not difficult (1 hex + 2 Phillip screws).
I cleaned and lubed them as well (the entire things).

I put everything together, wires in cables, and hold
the wire while trying the controller. Both work great
and click clearly into each step with the wire running
thru the cable with no tangible resistance.

Now I put the cables back on the bike which was
also easy.

However here the easy stuff ends. Is there some method
to what to do next? I thought I'd figure it out
because the combinations seemed limited what to do.
However I didn't succeed. On both front and back,
either the wire gets ridiculously loose (like a loop)
*or* I gets so heavy I have to put considerable
strength into getting to the next step. Not possible
to do while riding the bike!

How do you do it?

--
underground experts united
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  #19  
Old February 24th 16, 03:07 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg
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Posts: 318
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

Emanuel Berg writes:

However here the easy stuff ends. Is there some
method to what to do next? I thought I'd figure it
out because the combinations seemed limited what to
do. However I didn't succeed. On both front and
back, either the wire gets ridiculously loose (like
a loop) *or* I gets so heavy I have to put
considerable strength into getting to the next step.
Not possible to do while riding the bike!


OK, I got it working! With a tight wire it is possible
to shift when pedaling (with the legs). I don't know
if that is normal or if it is still a bad sign it
can't be done with just a little force to it.

I discovered two little screws (PZs) on the front
mechanism. It says H on the left and L on the right.
The "H" is perhaps "horizontal" (?) because it moves
the arm between the saddle frame pole and the
chainwheels. Actually you can align the arm pretty far
to the right this way. Is there a method to this?
I understand the purpose but it wasn't the easiest
thing to detect a good position or tell a good one
from a bad (save for when the chain came off).

The L screw tho I didn't see anything happening.
What does it do?

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #20  
Old February 24th 16, 03:38 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Posts: 10,538
Default Shimano Dual SIS 7 speed (photos)

On 2/23/2016 9:07 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Emanuel Berg writes:

However here the easy stuff ends. Is there some
method to what to do next? I thought I'd figure it
out because the combinations seemed limited what to
do. However I didn't succeed. On both front and
back, either the wire gets ridiculously loose (like
a loop) *or* I gets so heavy I have to put
considerable strength into getting to the next step.
Not possible to do while riding the bike!


OK, I got it working! With a tight wire it is possible
to shift when pedaling (with the legs). I don't know
if that is normal or if it is still a bad sign it
can't be done with just a little force to it.

I discovered two little screws (PZs) on the front
mechanism. It says H on the left and L on the right.
The "H" is perhaps "horizontal" (?) because it moves
the arm between the saddle frame pole and the
chainwheels. Actually you can align the arm pretty far
to the right this way. Is there a method to this?
I understand the purpose but it wasn't the easiest
thing to detect a good position or tell a good one
from a bad (save for when the chain came off).

The L screw tho I didn't see anything happening.
What does it do?


Have you tried using the Park Tool website?
www.parktool.com
or more specifically
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...eur-adjustment
and
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...eur-adjustment

It's amazing what you can find on this Internet thing!

--
- Frank Krygowski
 




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