What is the ideal cycling jacket (for UK commuting)

It sounds to me that even if I spend GBP 300 or 400+, the jacket
I seek simply doesnt really exist.

From what everyone has been saying, that's right.

If I'm concerned about staying warm/dry then I carry both the showerproof
and the waterproof jacket. Both scrunch up well in a jersey rear
pocket/small saddle bag. Normally I'll be wearing one of them anyway.

"ship" wrote in message
oups.com...

I have need something that is at least VERY showerproof - not
very shower proof just wont cut it!

The thing is yes, if the weather is looking *completely* dry then
I can cheerfully wear my Pertex thing from Montane.
It's quite visible being bright yellow, incredibly soft & compressible
(good for packing away) and it keeps the wind down moderately.

But if the weather is "spitting" a little (as opposed to a down-poor)
then
I need something much better then the pertex - which unless I've only
just re-proofed it becomes pretty useless in actual *rain* of any sort.

It sounds to me that even if I spend GBP 300 or 400+, the jacket
I seek simply doesnt really exist.

Yup. That's pretty much right.

Somebody else gave a sensible answer : ride in a t-shirt you don't mind
getting wet. Carry the work shirt in with you, and put it on when you ride.

cheers,
clive

in message . com, ship
') wrote:


Hi

What is the best cycling jacket for commuting (at reasonable speed in
UK)

I am looking for something that is:

b) HIGHLY BREATHABLE
a) Bright in colour /reflective at night
c) ultra-Compact
d) nearly(+) waterproof
e) COOL

Plus ideally:
f) aerodyamic/elastic??
g) fairly durable?

Budget: upto GBP 300.

So far I can't find ANYTHING on the market that is remotely
satisfactory.

I've found something I'm entirely satisfied with, which meets with all your
requirements except colour (it's very dark grey, although it has
reflective logos). It's a Campagnolo 'windproof' jacket which weighs 108
grammes and packs down to half the size of a coke can. Although it's
described as 'windproof' I've had it out in some pretty severe rain and
not got wet. Wiggle were selling them off for thirty quid a few weeks ago
but don't seem to have them any more; I'm not sure whether this:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/Default.aspx?ProdID=5360017362
is this year's version.


--
(Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
Ye hypocrites! are these your pranks? To murder men and give God thanks?
Desist, for shame! Proceed no further: God won't accept your thanks for
murther
-- Robert Burns, 'Thanksgiving For a National Victory'

On Mon, 16 Oct 2006 22:18:49 +0100, Simon Brooke wrote:

in message . com, ship
') wrote:

b) HIGHLY BREATHABLE
a) Bright in colour /reflective at night
c) ultra-Compact
d) nearly(+) waterproof
e) COOL

Plus ideally:
f) aerodyamic/elastic??
g) fairly durable?

Budget: upto GBP 300.

well, at that budget you should be able to get something....

So far I can't find ANYTHING on the market that is remotely
satisfactory.

IÂ*have found that GorTex takes care of all my needs. I have a
bright-yellow jacket made out of that (branded Gore Bike-Ware), which has
kept me dry commuting for the past 2 years, no problem.

Is it "cool"? Well, that is subjective. But it works, and it breathes --
helped along by pit-vents and a back vent, of course.

I also have a wind-parka that is more compact, but my experience with such
things is that they do not stop a determined rain.

The rain jacket was (US) $120 or so, and the windbreaker was $40, well
under your budget.


I've found something I'm entirely satisfied with, which meets with all
your requirements except colour (it's very dark grey, although it has
reflective logos).

That is, frankly, a bad decision on someone's part. Night-riding
garments, and rain garments, need to be brightly colored as well as
reflective. Reflective strips alone lead drivers to say "What the hell
was that?" _after_ they run you down.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | When you are up to your ass in alligators, it's hard to remember
_`\(,_ | that your initial objective was to drain the swamp. -- LBJ
(_)/ (_) |

In article ,
Peter Clinch wrote:

ship wrote:

But maybe the answer could lie in very sophisticated venting. e.g.
under-arm vents.

That's not sophisticated though. Hot air rises, and under arm vents
are pointing in the wrong direction. Of course, if they point the
right way the rain gets in...

Because the cyclist is moving, the fact that the underarm vents point
down is not misses the point because convection is not the mechanism of
air movement. The cyclist creates an effective breeze which can be used
to move air and ventilate the jacket. There are several possible
venting locations, with intake vents at the sleeve cuffs, underarm vents
and possibly the neck. Exhaust vents can be across the shoulder blades
and the bottom hem. Double ended front zips are also helpful. IME
underarm vents only are inadequate; there has to be air inflow up the
arms, in under the armpitss and out the back of the jacket.

As I mentioned earlier, my Showers Pass jacket makes better use of
ventilation than any other jacket I have worn. My clothing remains
quite dry. I bought mine after very positive reports from friends who
had Showers Pass jackets on a 200 km brevet in pouring rain; whereas I
was a soaked inside my jacket from sweat as if I had just ridden in the
rain, they were practically dry and very comfortable. I've not had
occasion to wear it for 8+ hours on a ride in the rain, but for an hour
or two I have been pleased to find myself quite dry.

Art Harris writes:

I am looking for something that is:

b) HIGHLY BREATHABLE
a) Bright in colour /reflective at night
c) ultra-Compact
d) nearly(+) waterproof
e) COOL

Plus ideally:
f) aerodyamic/elastic??
g) fairly durable?

Budget: upto GBP 300.

"Waterproof" and "breathable" are mutually exclusive terms that no
amount of money will reconcile. Best advice is to get a decent
"water resistant" thin windbreaker with vented back and arm pits.
Here in the US, I bought an inexpensive Hind jacket a few years ago
that's OK for light rain, but not a heavy downpour.

I'm with you on that except that I use my parka on my summer tour in
the Alps where it can snow any day of the year and often does as you
can see from the pictures at:

http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos.html

For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works.

1. It must be water proof.

2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and
nose are exposed.

3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must
insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing
hands.

4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front.

5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially
open even in rain.

6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry
readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside.
Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle.

7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the
wind when descending.

Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced
convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket
remains still and notice how much warmer it is.

Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried
descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not
with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets
have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa
Clause with many layers of clothing.

Jobst Brandt

On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 03:04:52 GMT, Artoi wrote:

In article ,
wrote:

I'm with you on that except that I use my parka on my summer tour in
the Alps where it can snow any day of the year and often does as you
can see from the pictures at:

http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos.html

For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works.

1. It must be water proof.

2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and
nose are exposed.

3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must
insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing
hands.

4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front.

5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially
open even in rain.

6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry
readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside.
Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle.

7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the
wind when descending.

Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced
convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket
remains still and notice how much warmer it is.

Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried
descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not
with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets
have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa
Clause with many layers of clothing.

Sounds good! So what's the best product you've found that matches the
requirements?

Any cuts for the product endorsement?

Dear Artoi,

http://www.rus-sell.com/item7932-sov...ench+coat.html

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

In article ,
wrote:

I'm with you on that except that I use my parka on my summer tour in
the Alps where it can snow any day of the year and often does as you
can see from the pictures at:

http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos.html

For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works.

1. It must be water proof.

2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and
nose are exposed.

3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must
insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing
hands.

4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front.

5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially
open even in rain.

6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry
readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside.
Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle.

7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the
wind when descending.

Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced
convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket
remains still and notice how much warmer it is.

Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried
descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not
with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets
have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa
Clause with many layers of clothing.

Sounds good! So what's the best product you've found that matches the
requirements?

Any cuts for the product endorsement?
--

In article ,
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 03:04:52 GMT, Artoi wrote:

In article ,
wrote:

I'm with you on that except that I use my parka on my summer tour in
the Alps where it can snow any day of the year and often does as you
can see from the pictures at:

http://www.paloaltobicycles.com/alps_photos.html

For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works.

1. It must be water proof.

2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and
nose are exposed.

3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must
insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing
hands.

4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front.

5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially
open even in rain.

6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry
readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside.
Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle.

7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the
wind when descending.

Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced
convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket
remains still and notice how much warmer it is.

Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried
descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not
with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets
have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa
Clause with many layers of clothing.

Sounds good! So what's the best product you've found that matches the
requirements?

Any cuts for the product endorsement?

http://www.rus-sell.com/item7932-sov...ench+coat.html

Nice and warm. But I couldn't see whether there's velcro on those lovely
cuffs. :P
--

In article ,
wrote:

For that reason I have a more stringent rule on what works.

1. It must be water proof.

2. It must have a hood that can be cinched down so that only eyes and
nose are exposed.

3. It should be double layered, the inner layer can be mesh but must
insulate the outer skin from the rider's arms to prevent freezing
hands.

4. Velcro closure on sleeves and over the zipper down the front.

5. No vents or slots. Climbing can be done with the front partially
open even in rain.

6. No Gore-Tex, the outer layer of which gets wet and doesn't dry
readily, and the same goes for condensation on the inside.
Breathing is illusory for someone climbing hills on a bicycle.

7. Bonus: Stiff and tight fitting enough so it does not flap in the
wind when descending.

Flapping sleeves and body is the greatest loss of warmth from forced
convection. Next time when descending, hold the arms so the jacket
remains still and notice how much warmer it is.

Unfortunately, the people who make bicycle jackets haven't tried
descending a 20km alpine pass when it's snowing... or at least not
with an understanding of why it is as cold as it is. Most jackets
have no adequate neck and head covering and have a body to hold Santa
Clause with many layers of clothing.

Good for your purposes, but I wonder if a rain jacket like that would be
suitable for riding to work in typical cool, rainy weather. On the
rides you describe, getting chilled could be life threatening if you
start to shiver and the bike develops a wobble on a mountain hairpin
descent, or if your hands get cold enough that you can't grip the brakes
properly. On a commute to work in one's office clothing, on the other
hand, one might arrive at work a sodden mess from sweat.

I have a jacket much like you describe (urethane coated nylon bought
from Nashbar or Performance about 10 years ago), but riding in it for 20
miles in the rain on a 55 degree F day is like being a boil-in-the-bag
dinner. In a cold rain it works fairly well, but even then its
limitations can be reached as I found out on a 200 km brevet with 8+
hours of rain in the low 40s F. My other jacket is useful over a wider
range of conditions, but does not have a hood (a detachable one is
available, but I haven't bought it as I really don't like hoods).

Basically, I've not found any jacket that keeps on dry from the rain and
also from sweat. Until nanotechnology invents some miracle fabric that
actively transports water vapor molecules and heat out and cool air in,
rain jackets will make the rider damp from sweat. Good ventilation, I
have found, is currently the key to comfort.

For cold weather riding, I find jackets useless. Even at freezing
temps, the sweat buildup is problematic. I just pile on more insulating
layers of materials that are knit rather than woven, as I find these
breathe better. In my case, that generally means a wool base layer and
a varying number of wool jerseys and possibly a wool sweater over the
top. For the legs I make do with Lycra tights or PowerStretch 100
tights from Col d'Lizard. Lake winter SPD boots have made cold weather
riding feasible for me.