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#1
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French Alps incorrect sea-to-lake tour Nice-Geneva
I've gotten started on one of the great adventures of bicycling: Riding from
the Mediterranean sea to Lac Leman / Geneva, south to north over the great passes of the Alps. So far I've finished from Guillestre (south of Briancon) to Lanslebourg (in the Maurienne valley) -- which is roughly the _middle_ section of the route from sea to lake. How does that fit? "incorrect" -- My approach is to accomplish this in separate sections over several years. And for many of those great mountain passes (called "cols"), to ride over the high col as part of single-day loop route -- just like how lots of local French and Italian cyclists normally do their rides. I'm loving it so far -- hope I can find a way to get back there next year to do more sections. It is true that I don't get the accomplishment of one giant two-week commitment, but I'm finding plenty of adventure and beauty and satisfaction in the four single-day sections I've done so far -- see details below. I did this riding on my Bike Friday Project Q -- which can be assembled as either a tandem or a single bike. And can be dis-assembled to fit into normal suitcases for airline travel. On this trip I flew from the USA to Paris with the suitcases and first assembled it as a tandem for a few days of gentle-moderate riding together with Sharon. Then she flew home with the tandem-specific parts, and I had a few extra vacation days available, so I re-assembled the Project Q as a single bike and headed for the mountains. Assembly takes some time and some learning curve, but it sure has been worth it to be able to plan a trip to Europe and know that we -- and I -- will have a good bike when we get there. My secret to enjoying the great Cols of France: very very low gears. Ken ____________________________________ Details Loop sections I did last week: - - Col d'Izoard as a loop from the city of Briancon south along mostly the west side of the Durance river, with lots of big views east and south across the valley and glimpses west into the snow-capped peaks of the Ecrins National Park (and one climb on the D38 tougher than anything on the famous Col). Then cross to Guillestre, and climb up thru the Queyras mountains, first thru a steep-walled river gorge and up to the south "high desert" side of the Col d'Izoard, then down the north side back down into Briancon. And I discovered that I could be guided thru the entire loop by yellow arrows painted on the road with label "EM" (? Embrun Man ?) - - Col du Montgenevre as a loop with the city of Briancon with Col de l'Echelle -- steep climb getting north out of town, up well-designed switchbacks with big views back to the ancient fortress and mountains, over the Col de Montgenevre east-bound into Italy, with an exciting descent mostly on new smooth pavement with big views down to Cesana Torinese, then more moderate downhill on new pavement to Oulx. Moderate climb to Bardonecchia, then some steep switchbacks going west back into France and over Col de l'Echelle, with 2 km thru rocky crags up high before a shorter descent to a gentle section of the Vallee de la Claree, and I enjoyed the low-key village of Nevache, then a long moderate descent south to the main road, and more views down back to Briancon. Even though this is a major road, on a mid-week day in September I was only passed by one car (and one bike) on the whole descent to Cesana. Missed loop opportunity: - - Col du Mont Cenis: I started from Susa, Italy and felt real good and strong climbing up this big one (something 1500 meters / 5000 ft), road well designed. Up high it was wonderful to ride along the big beautiful blue Lac du Mont Cenis and look north to snow in the Vanoise. My intent was to do just the south side as an out-and-back day, but then at the top a French rider caught me -- and talked me into descending the other side into France for a snack with him in Lanslebourg. Over coffee, I think I understood him (in my limited comprehension of French) to say that he was doing a loop tour: He had parked his car in Modane (north side in France), and taken his bike on the bus thru the big tunnel to Bardonecchia (south side in Italy), rode to Susa, and then climbed over the Col du Mont Cenis back to France. Wish I could of thought of that? Instead I had to climb up to the Col again and go back over it south-bound. Onerous until I had the joy of big high lake again -- then down thousands of vertical feet of wonderful smooth pavement on the Italian side back to my car parked in Susa. Horrible road loop (? or big "mountain bike" adventure ?): - - Sestriere to Susa (all in Italy) as a loop, starting from Cesana and returning thru Oulx. Bad idea. I started with the climb up to Sestreire from Cesana Torinese -- has a long gentle traverse in its middle with great views -- I'll happily do that again sometime. (Question: what is the "notorious" Sestriere climb? is it from the east side?). Next my map showed a "high route" to Susa across the Testa dell'Assiette and Colle delle Finestre. I figured it would have great views from along the top of the ridge. And it did have great views. But it was all a dirt road. With rocks. With climbs and descents. For a while it was an interesting challenge and variation trying it on my narrow-tire road bike with no suspension. But there was altogether too much of it -- like around 50 km / 30 miles on dirt. My arms and butt were hammered by the constant bouncing on the rocks. I'm glad I had only to fix one flat tire along the way. I encountered a few motorcycles up there, and then to my surprise coming the other way another bicycle with panniers loaded for a multi-day tour. The rider spoke excellent English to me. He had started his randonnee from Geneva, and he thought he'd try this road because it looked more interesting, but it was very hard and he doubted I would make it to Susa that day. I thought I understand him to say that he had left Susa the day before. I did not ask him where or how he had spent the night out. After I crossed the Colle delle Finestre and started down to Susa and understand how it had taken him more than a day. I could not believe how long I kept going down on dirt with rocks. Finally I reached pavement, but still an amazing number of tight switchbacks to Meana, and still more down on normal wide road to Susa. It was scary to think of that other rider climbing up all that on a loaded touring bike. Next time I would follow that French rider's idea of using a bus ride to make a loop between the Lanslebourg and Modane in the Maurienne valley and Oulx and Susa in Italy -- which neatly overlaps with my Briancon - Montgenevre - Bardonecchia - Nevache loop. Optionally add the beautiful climb to Sestriere as an out-and-back side trip. Galibier versus Mont Cenis -- big route decision: My opinion now is that for doing the Alps sea-to-lake randonnee north-bound, I like Montgenevre + Susa + Mont Cenis better than Lauteret + Galibier + St Michel de Maurienne, as a route from Briancon to the Maurienne valley. Because the gentler section on higher-traffic road is taken in general downhill direction (Cesana to Susa), instead of two long sections on higher-traffic roads taken uphill (Briancon to Lauteret, and then St Michel de Marienne to Lanslebourg). And while Galibier crossing has spectacular mountains, the big high lake of Mont Cenis is unique for this route. Also Galibier can be done as part of a separate great randonnee of its own, a loop with Col de la Croix de Fer and Bourg d'Oisans (and optionally l'Alpe d'Huez). _____________________________________ |
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#2
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Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the tour de france route.* Thanks. -- Syv |
#3
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Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the tour de france route.* Thanks. -- Syv |
#4
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Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the tour de france route.* Thanks. -- Syv |
#5
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a shy person writes:
Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the Tour de France route.* You don't need permission to ride in the Alps, you just go there and do it. There are so many hotels, restaurants, and grocery stores that you won't have difficulty finding food and lodging. There are ways to communicate other than in English, but it generally works most anywhere. You could see how that is done at: http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bik...r_of_the_Alps/ Jobst Brandt |
#6
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a shy person writes:
Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the Tour de France route.* You don't need permission to ride in the Alps, you just go there and do it. There are so many hotels, restaurants, and grocery stores that you won't have difficulty finding food and lodging. There are ways to communicate other than in English, but it generally works most anywhere. You could see how that is done at: http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bik...r_of_the_Alps/ Jobst Brandt |
#7
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a shy person writes:
Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the Tour de France route.* You don't need permission to ride in the Alps, you just go there and do it. There are so many hotels, restaurants, and grocery stores that you won't have difficulty finding food and lodging. There are ways to communicate other than in English, but it generally works most anywhere. You could see how that is done at: http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bik...r_of_the_Alps/ Jobst Brandt |
#9
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writes:
a shy person writes: Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the Tour de France route.* There are many types of tour packages and it's not clear what you are looking for- sounds like someone to manage your accommodations and schlep your luggage for you. The former is easily done by you over the Internet- or in person, for that matter, wherever you happen to wind up towards dusk. Schlepping lugage can also easily be done by oneself on the bike. With reasonable selectivity, you can carry 10 lbs or less for a multi-week tour if you are not camping. That's not too much to add for going up the hills. The freedom this approach would provide you is significant. I think the reason you are finding no offerings for such a tour is that there's not enough of a market. This type of touring is generally marketed to sedentary, late middle aged occasional cyclists looking for a pleasant ride through relatively easy terrain. The Alps would not fit into that description, and since you're interested in the Alps you might not be in the target market! I suspect you will be on your own for this, which is fortunately pretty easy to deal with. You don't need permission to ride in the Alps, you just go there and do it. There are so many hotels, restaurants, and grocery stores that you won't have difficulty finding food and lodging. There are ways to communicate other than in English, but it generally works most anywhere. I was surprised at how many people in the Alps speak at least some English, enough to compliment my limited French. I had no trouble at all in the Alps finding anything I needed. To add on to Jobst's comments, route planning in the Alps turned out to be very simple. There aren't that many roads, the intersections are well signed, and it's hard to get lost. There's lots in information on the Web about touring in the Alps. A plug for my own report at: http://www2.bitstream.net/~timmcn/alps2002-1.html And also: http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bike http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bike/Countries/France/ http://www.aukadia.net/alps/index.htm http://earlybirds.users.btopenworld.com/2003.htm And thanks to Google, here's perhaps some helpful (or perhaps not helpful) options: http://www.alpineadventuretours.com/ http://www.cyclomundo.com/hp_french_alps.htm http://europeforvisitors.com/europe/...rs_bicycle.htm http://www.discoverfrance.com/ |
#10
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writes:
a shy person writes: Do you know of any *tour operators* that can help us planning our route (to our choices), accommodations, and baggage handling for Geneva to Nice bicycle tour? (preferably who we can communicate with in English language) We seem to find many "rolling hills" type bicycle tours on websites - but nothing *for the more difficult route, over the high mountain passes, & following some of the Tour de France route.* There are many types of tour packages and it's not clear what you are looking for- sounds like someone to manage your accommodations and schlep your luggage for you. The former is easily done by you over the Internet- or in person, for that matter, wherever you happen to wind up towards dusk. Schlepping lugage can also easily be done by oneself on the bike. With reasonable selectivity, you can carry 10 lbs or less for a multi-week tour if you are not camping. That's not too much to add for going up the hills. The freedom this approach would provide you is significant. I think the reason you are finding no offerings for such a tour is that there's not enough of a market. This type of touring is generally marketed to sedentary, late middle aged occasional cyclists looking for a pleasant ride through relatively easy terrain. The Alps would not fit into that description, and since you're interested in the Alps you might not be in the target market! I suspect you will be on your own for this, which is fortunately pretty easy to deal with. You don't need permission to ride in the Alps, you just go there and do it. There are so many hotels, restaurants, and grocery stores that you won't have difficulty finding food and lodging. There are ways to communicate other than in English, but it generally works most anywhere. I was surprised at how many people in the Alps speak at least some English, enough to compliment my limited French. I had no trouble at all in the Alps finding anything I needed. To add on to Jobst's comments, route planning in the Alps turned out to be very simple. There aren't that many roads, the intersections are well signed, and it's hard to get lost. There's lots in information on the Web about touring in the Alps. A plug for my own report at: http://www2.bitstream.net/~timmcn/alps2002-1.html And also: http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bike http://www-math.science.unitn.it/Bike/Countries/France/ http://www.aukadia.net/alps/index.htm http://earlybirds.users.btopenworld.com/2003.htm And thanks to Google, here's perhaps some helpful (or perhaps not helpful) options: http://www.alpineadventuretours.com/ http://www.cyclomundo.com/hp_french_alps.htm http://europeforvisitors.com/europe/...rs_bicycle.htm http://www.discoverfrance.com/ |
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