Giant FCR / Trek 1200 Flat

If I want something more road than my current hardtail mountain bike,
what's the good word on the Giant FCR and Trek 1000/1200 flat bar
bikes? And how much expense would be involved in later converting them
to drop bar if my lower back and enthusiasm dictated I needed to
(presumably that means new bar, new brake and shifter levers).

ian

In article ,
Ian G Batten wrote:

If I want something more road than my current hardtail mountain bike,
what's the good word on the Giant FCR and Trek 1000/1200 flat bar
bikes? And how much expense would be involved in later converting them
to drop bar if my lower back and enthusiasm dictated I needed to
(presumably that means new bar, new brake and shifter levers).

Depends on quality of parts you're using and whether you
install the parts yourself, in US money you're probably looking
at around $125-150 for shifters, $75-100 for bars and stem, $10
for some handlebar tape. Of course there are ways to do
it cheaper and you can spend as high as you want.

Before you commit I suggest you find a shop that knows how to fit
bicycles and see if they can replicate your MTB fit using drop
bars. The drop handlebar itself implies nothing about how
far you bend over.

--Paul

"Paul Southworth" wrote in message
news:d4Bgb.37863$A%3.488763@ord-

Before you commit I suggest you find a shop that knows how to fit
bicycles and see if they can replicate your MTB fit using drop
bars. The drop handlebar itself implies nothing about how
far you bend over.

I agree with Paul here. I went as far as building up a flat-bar road bike
for myself but discovered that a flat bar is a real pain in the arms (and
hands and wrists) when the road ride gets long. You will not be moving
around on a road bike like you do off-road, so fit issues become more
important. A saddle that is fine for bumping around off-road can be very
uncomfortable when you sit in the same position for long periods. The same
is true of hand position. The palm-down position of a flat bar doesn't work
as well on a long road ride. While bar-ends may provide some relief, they
exascerbate the aerodynamics problems at road bike speeds.

Get yourself fit for a road bike. You may be surprised how much more
comfortable it is for the long haul.

-Buck

In article ,
Paul Southworth wrote:
Before you commit I suggest you find a shop that knows how to fit
bicycles and see if they can replicate your MTB fit using drop
bars. The drop handlebar itself implies nothing about how
far you bend over.

Could you give some pointers on this, so I can point the shop in the
right direction?

ian

If I want something more road than my current hardtail mountain bike,
what's the good word on the Giant FCR and Trek 1000/1200 flat bar
bikes? And how much expense would be involved in later converting them
to drop bar if my lower back and enthusiasm dictated I needed to
(presumably that means new bar, new brake and shifter levers).

I think you're under the common (and mistaken) assumption that a "drop" bar
equals a less-comfortable riding position. Simply not true. You can set up
a bike with a drop bar quite high, and quite close, if that's what you need.
Some manufacturers are even spec'ing new bikes that way, such as the TREK
"C" (comfort) series. The new 1800 ($1299?) looks to be a category killer,
but unfortunately won't be out for about a month or so. Other
less-expensive models available too.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"Ian G Batten" wrote in message
...

If I want something more road than my current hardtail mountain bike,
what's the good word on the Giant FCR and Trek 1000/1200 flat bar
bikes? And how much expense would be involved in later converting them
to drop bar if my lower back and enthusiasm dictated I needed to
(presumably that means new bar, new brake and shifter levers).

ian

In article ,
Ian G Batten wrote:
In article ,
Paul Southworth wrote:
Before you commit I suggest you find a shop that knows how to fit
bicycles and see if they can replicate your MTB fit using drop
bars. The drop handlebar itself implies nothing about how
far you bend over.

Could you give some pointers on this, so I can point the shop in the
right direction?

If you have to give the shop pointers on fitting, then they
are already disqualified. :-)

The person at the shop should look at your bike, look at you on it,
take detailed measurements of your body and the equipment, probably
use some algorithm to come up with suggestions (unless your current
fit is already exactly the way you want), and most importantly
LISTEN when you talk about how you ride, your physical limitations,
etc. They should consider factors such as reach and drop of popular
handlebars. This is often overlooked, even though handlebars vary
in reach from about 7cm to 12cm - bar selection is just as important
as stem selection. They should also be prepared to make repeated
changes to the bike based on your input after riding. They should
want you back in the store regularly with a smile on your face to
buy high margin accessories, tires and labor. If you are in agony
on the bike you will not keep buying, referring, etc. and you won't
wear out the bike (and buy another) because you won't ride it. The
better shops out there understand this and will do what it takes
to keep you on the bike.

Sometimes getting the necessary attention costs some money (typically
US$50-150 depending on the details), and many free fitting sessions
are not sufficiently rigorous. On the other hand some shops do
excellent fitting for nothing or refund the cost with a bike purchase.

Finding the right shop is very important, and dealing with the right
person at the shop can be equally so (sometimes you will need to
make an appointment). Local amateur racing clubs are often a good
source of referrals for bike fitters (some of whom don't own bike
shops and work as coaches or consultants).

--Paul