how many nm for dome nuts on wheel axle?

"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message
...
John B. wrote:

Today I tried the torque wrench for dome
nuts on a single speed rear wheel axle.
I put torque to 45 nm which I got from a MTB
casette. I don't know how hard I have been
pulling them hitherto but my intuition tells
me this was considerably harder.

I read that Shimano recommends 260 - 290 inch
pounds for axle nuts which is 28Nm - 32Nm.

Excellent, thank you!

Probably less on an alloy frame - I frequently have to file the drop out
slots because I over tightened it and squashed it.

"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message
...
AMuzi writes:

As long as you check to be sure that the axle/bold
won't screw in so deep that it hits the bottom of
the threads in the nut. Probably dome nuts look
better but regular old nuts hold just as well :-)

The saying goes that the dome will protect the
threading of the axle, right?

From what? Cosmic rays? vermin? zombies?

I suppose if the bike falls over or strikes into other
objects when people muscle it into and out of
over-crowded racks.

Perhaps dirt will find a home there rather than the
more level dome...

Most dome nuts are 2 parts pressed together, they can let water accumulate
and trap. Corrosion can go un noticed.

I like the suggestion someone made of SS nylocks, but I've never seen any
with the right thread offered for sale - not that I bothered looking very
hard.

They use a lot of dome nuts on motorcycles and corrosion isn't a common
problem - but its a PITA when it does happen.

On 6/4/2017 5:11 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message
...
AMuzi writes:

As long as you check to be sure that the axle/bold
won't screw in so deep that it hits the bottom of
the threads in the nut. Probably dome nuts look
better but regular old nuts hold just as well :-)

The saying goes that the dome will protect the
threading of the axle, right?

From what? Cosmic rays? vermin? zombies?

I suppose if the bike falls over or strikes into other
objects when people muscle it into and out of
over-crowded racks.

Perhaps dirt will find a home there rather than the
more level dome...

Most dome nuts are 2 parts pressed together, they can let water
accumulate and trap. Corrosion can go un noticed.

I like the suggestion someone made of SS nylocks, but I've never seen
any with the right thread offered for sale - not that I bothered looking
very hard.

They use a lot of dome nuts on motorcycles and corrosion isn't a common
problem - but its a PITA when it does happen.

Automobile muffler clamps are an extreme corrosion situation, and the
nuts that tighten onto the U-shaped clamp rod often can't be removed
because the threads beyond the nut rust badly. Eventually, I learned to
just install extra nuts to cover and protect those threads. That would
work for bike axle nuts too, if it were really a problem. (Not that
I've ever had the problem on a bike.)

Drivel: last year I finally sold my dearly beloved Honda station wagon.
It was only 26 years old. But not long after I bought it (used), I
had to replace the muffler. My locally-owned auto parts shop said "We
can give you a standard muffler for $XXX, or you can get one with a
lifetime guarantee for 20% more." I went for the lifetime guarantee.

It paid off in spades, of course. I probably got four free mufflers
while I owned that car. But the first couple times I couldn't get the
new muffler until I took the old one in to the shop along with the
original receipt. Eventually, they let me take the new muffler home,
install it and bring the old one in.

I'm proud to say I astonished one worker by returning the old muffler in
about half an hour, driving the car with the new muffler installed.
Extra nuts on the clamps, anti-seize everywhere, and practice paid off.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:30:31 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Doug Landau wrote:

switch to SS Nylocks n paint exposed threads
with thinned linseed

^^ excellent advice ^^

Dome nuts are the original component. To get
anything else would be impractical as there are
so many such bikes around, and besides I don't
see anything wrong with using dome nut
and washers.

Rather spend my $$ on Donuts

Doug Landau wrote:

Rather spend my $$ on Donuts

I use lock nuts on things that are never
removed, e.g. rack, fenders, stays, and
kickstand. The wheels I stick with dome nuts
and washers as it is the original component, it
looks good and I have no bad experience with
it. For the brake arm and chain guard which are
also subjects to removal just M5s with a split
washer and nut - if the chain guard stay have
threaded, just the nut. But it is just what
I do at the moment, I have dropped many ideas
and habits and came up with new ones since
I started doing this...

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573