SRAM Grip Shift Front Derailleur Question

bentbiker must be edykated coz e writed:

I am not sre that is correct. granted any sram with a number on it is
only compatible with a sram REAR derailleur, but it should work with
that shimano 105 front derailleur. hang on, somebody like "lowracer"
will clear it up, or post it to the technical section on BROL, but I do
think it should work, mine is.

swamprun wrote:
On the shifter it says X-7. Looks like a verified problem.


If the shifter has a number... 5.0 etc its incompatible.
If it has a name like Centera, Attack etc. it should be
Shimano compatible.

Mikael



Sram front shifters are compatible with Shimano and Campag front mechs.
Afterall Sram do not make front mechs so there is no point in them being
Sram specific.

--
Ian

http://www.catrike.co.uk

Mikael Seierup wrote:
If the shifter has a number... 5.0 etc its incompatible. If it has a
name like Centera, Attack etc. it should be Shimano compatible.898/B]



Um. . .no.

That is for the rear derailleur. Front derailleurs will work with
virtually any SRAM version. Take a look at the specs on a lot of
bikes for this.



--
Derek,
Burley Canto

--------------------------
Posted via cyclingforums.com
http://www.cyclingforums.com

Um. . .no.

That is for the rear derailleur. Front derailleurs will work with
virtually any SRAM version. Take a look at the specs on a lot of
bikes for this.

That appears to be true. When SRAM says "Shimano Compatible", they are
referring to the rear derailleur only. Which means my X-7 should work,
but hell if I can figure out how.

it might have something to do, with that low end crank set on the Jet
stream, have another one you can throw on to try it?

swamprun wrote:

Um. . .no.

That is for the rear derailleur. Front derailleurs will work with
virtually any SRAM version. Take a look at the specs on a lot of
bikes for this.


That appears to be true. When SRAM says "Shimano Compatible", they are
referring to the rear derailleur only. Which means my X-7 should work,
but hell if I can figure out how.

I don't think the crankset is the main problem. I spent about 1.5 hours
working on the cursed thing today. I found I could get some degree of
proper functioning by leaving quite a bit of slack in the cable in
position 1 (small chainring). It shifts quite well to the middle chain
ring now without overshooting. The shift to the large chainring requires
a LOT of force to get to the third click. I pushed the high limit screw
to the absolute max of pushing the chain off the outside of the big
chainring to reduce the cable tension as much as possible.

Another thing I learned today is that SRAM makes 2 versions of the front
twist shifter. There is an "indexed" version, which is what I have, and a
"micro adjust" version which apparently has a whole bunch of smaller
clicks. I looked at several online bike stores selling SRAM stuff, and
only one of them shows the selection for the micro-adjust option. This
may be the way to go to get decent function out of this contraption.


On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 19:47:30 -0500, bentbiker wrote:

it might have something to do, with that low end crank set on the Jet
stream, have another one you can throw on to try it?

swamprun wrote:
...
Another thing I learned today is that SRAM makes 2 versions of the front
twist shifter. There is an "indexed" version, which is what I have, and a
"micro adjust" version which apparently has a whole bunch of smaller
clicks. I looked at several online bike stores selling SRAM stuff, and
only one of them shows the selection for the micro-adjust option. This
may be the way to go to get decent function out of this contraption.

Having used both three position (SRAM 5.0), six position (SRAM 7.0) and
eight position (SRAM Plasma) GripShifters, I prefer to have the maximum
number of detents, as it allow trimming of the front derailleur to avoid
chain rub.

On an USS HPV, I prefer Shimano Ultegra (8-speed) and Dura-Ace (9-speed)
bar end shifters.

Tom Sherman - Near the confluence of the Mississippi and Rock Rivers
RANS "Wavewind" and Rocket, Earth Cycles Sunset and Dragonflyer

on the SRAM website there are technical manuals that explain how
everything works/should be done. I learned a lot about my rear
derailleur that way. It works a lot differently now, if not better.

http://www.sram24.com/newtechdoc/english/index.html

Something else to check. Make sure that the derailleur cable is
attached to the derailleur at the right place and angle. If you
completely remove the pinch bolt which holds the cable to the
derailleur, you should notice a groove under the screw which the cable
should be located in when the screw is tightened. Also my Shimano
derailleur has a little lip or raised place right at the pinch bolt, on
the derailleur itself. At this point, where the cable exits the pinch
bolt, the cable needs to bend up and over the lip and then down to the
cable housing stop on the frame. This lip positions the cable out near
the end of the lever arm which operates the derailleur. This
establishes the correct distance from the pivot of the lever arm that
the cable needs to be at. If the cable attaches to the pinch bolt too
close to the pivot point, then the derailleur cage will move too far
between the clicks and will also require more torque at the shifter to
get the cage to move. If the cable is attached further from the pivot
then the derailleur cage will move less per click and will require less
torque at the shifter. My Shimano rapid-fire shifters pull 3/4 of an
inch of cable across their full range. That only about an 1/8 of an
inch less than yours. So it sounds like your shifters are pretty close
to what they should be. It is ok for the cable to be a little slack
while in position 1. Make sure that your cable is attached correctly at
the derailleur. Hope this helps and isn't too confusing. If you would
like me to clarify, please don't hesitate to ask.

Greg

On Tue, 28 Oct 2003 18:08:30 -0500 (EST), (Greg
Eicher) wrote:

Something else to check. Make sure that the derailleur cable is
attached to the derailleur at the right place and angle. If you
completely remove the pinch bolt which holds the cable to the
derailleur, you should notice a groove under the screw which the cable
should be located in when the screw is tightened. Also my Shimano
derailleur has a little lip or raised place right at the pinch bolt, on
the derailleur itself. At this point, where the cable exits the pinch
bolt, the cable needs to bend up and over the lip and then down to the
cable housing stop on the frame. ....

Good point. Here's a photo:
http://www.hostelshoppe.com/tech_frontderail.php


Ken Kobayashi

http://solarwww.mtk.nao.ac.jp/kobayashi/personal/

For recumbents where we have longer chain runs and slack, micro indexed front
derailleurs is the way to go. You can fine tune and adjust so there is no
rubbintg.

J Gaerlan - Gaerlan Custom Cycles
http://www.gaerlan.com
"home of travel bikes and bike travels"
(415)362-3866: (415)677-8943 fax