A patching dilemma...

How can I buy a bunch of the smallest size patches? Most patch kits come with a
bunch of big ones, but only two or four small ones. The larger ones don't fit
on road tubes without wrapping around them, so it's hard to get a good bond all
the way around, to keep the edges from peeling. I haven't had one fail in
awhile, but smaller patches would be better. Can someone get these in bulk, and
sell me a bunch? I'm sick of paying $4.00 for a patch kit with 2 good patches
in it, and a bunch of crap I'll never use.

Also, is it better to remove the plastic, leave it on, or leave it on as the
patch cures but take it off before using the tube? I do let my patches cure
overnight whenever possible.

Matt O.

On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 15:47:42 -0500, "Matt O'Toole" wrote:

How can I buy a bunch of the smallest size patches? Most patch kits come with a
bunch of big ones, but only two or four small ones. The larger ones don't fit
on road tubes without wrapping around them, so it's hard to get a good bond all
the way around, to keep the edges from peeling. I haven't had one fail in
awhile, but smaller patches would be better. Can someone get these in bulk, and
sell me a bunch? I'm sick of paying $4.00 for a patch kit with 2 good patches
in it, and a bunch of crap I'll never use.

Scissors. - OR - Want a nice feathered edge, lick an Xacto and use that to cut
on a bevel.

Maybe lick your finger and use that to lube the blade.

Ron

Hi Matt
Bike tools Etc sells 100 small Ream for a very reasonable price ~$15.
I do believe that they have a shelf life, although I don't know what it
is. I've been hesitating to buy 100 because of this. Would you be
interested in splitting or thirding 100? Where do you live? I'm in the
SF Bay Area.
John

wrote:
Hi Matt
Bike tools Etc sells 100 small Ream for a very reasonable price ~$15.
I do believe that they have a shelf life, although I don't know what it
is. I've been hesitating to buy 100 because of this.

I'm on my second or third 100-box of Rema patches (it's been quite a few
years). They work pretty much the same now as when new.

One annoyance: In the latest box I bought (probably 15 years ago), the
foil peels off before the cellophane. (From the day I got the box) I
just catch a corner with a fingernail and peel away; it leaves an
annoying (but harmless) munged part on the edge of the patch.

Does anyone know if this is a common problem with Rema patches? I don't
remember it from the last box (but after 15 years, memory fades).

As for "glue" or vulcanizing fluid - I tried buying that in bulk, and it
definitely did NOT have shelf life. Now I go to a dept. store and buy
the cheapest patch kits I can, about $1.50, pitch the patches and use
the glue. I think I'm still far ahead overall in the cost of patching
supplies.

Mark Janeba

Mark, Ya Know, that's interesting.
I get a little nib about 1/2 the time. I've always thought it was
something I was doing wrong, but I'm not sure what. I try to leave the
clear plastic on even after mounting the tube, but it usually falls off
before. The hardest part for me is getting the patch centered. I've
developed a method to do that, but it takes too long. And yes I use
talcum powder, despite highly regarded advice to the contrary.
John

wrote:

Mark, Ya Know, that's interesting.
I get a little nib about 1/2 the time. I've always thought it was
something I was doing wrong, but I'm not sure what. I try to leave the
clear plastic on even after mounting the tube, but it usually falls off
before. The hardest part for me is getting the patch centered. I've
developed a method to do that, but it takes too long. And yes I use
talcum powder, despite highly regarded advice to the contrary.
John

What is a nib?

To patch, I draw the tube across the back of my left hand,
injury centered, and hold the tube firmly in that hand.

Then I clean the area with a solvent , ideally Tech 2-Way
Prep, a patch-specific cleaner, on a clean cloth. Alcohol,
MEK, Trichlorethylene, tape deck cleaner or anything else
that evaporates cleanly will do. Anything that leaves a
residue won't help.

The older crowd smears patch cement on the area and shaves
that off with a pocket knife.

Now I have a chemically cleaned surface, dead flat, with the
hole centered and I haven't smeared my fingers across the
cleaned area.

Spread cement in an area slightly larger than your patch as
thinly and evenly as possible while remaining wet. Allow an
angel to pass. That in this case is ten to thirty seconds
until the glue looks dry.

Peel back the patch backing. With care you can get the
backing mostly off so you can hold a covered edge and keep
your fingers off the prepared patch. Press the patch firmly
over the injury and either use a patch stitcher or your
fingers to push the patch firmly onto the glued surface.

Some photos here might help:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/tubfix.html

Our FAQ is also instructive:
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/index.html

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2 Jan 2005 16:34:39 -0800, wrote:

The hardest part for me is getting the patch centered. I've
developed a method to do that, but it takes too long. And yes I use
talcum powder, despite highly regarded advice to the contrary.

After putting the wet glue on, pump the tire and a white mark will
appear where the air is coming out.

Put the tip of a toothpick into the hole through the sanding, gluing
and drying. Remove the tip as you put the patch on.

I think that talcum powder is traditional more than functional. Most
people use use baby powder instead of talcum. The fragrance contains
oil and makes it more difficult to get a good surface to put glue on
when needed.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Mark, Ya Know, that's interesting.
I get a little nib about 1/2 the time. I've always thought it was
something I was doing wrong, but I'm not sure what. I try to leave the
clear plastic on even after mounting the tube, but it usually falls
off
before. The hardest part for me is getting the patch centered. I've
developed a method to do that, but it takes too long. And yes I use
talcum powder, despite highly regarded advice to the contrary.
John

To center the patch - put a small dab of glue on the hole, using the
dab as center, draw a glue circle slightly larger than the patch. Fill
it in and when ready, center the patch in the glue and the hole will be
centered under the patch.

Phil H

As for "glue" or vulcanizing fluid - I tried buying that in bulk, and
it
definitely did NOT have shelf life. Now I go to a dept. store and buy
the cheapest patch kits I can, about $1.50, pitch the patches and use
the glue. I think I'm still far ahead overall in the cost of patching
supplies.

give 'rubber cement', the paper stuff, a try. i was fooling around
& made a 1-in x 3-in patch using an old inner tube, rubber cement &
naptha/Coleman fuel (as a liquid buffer) and lived to tell about it. i
had a tube with a 2 in split and wondered if it would work.
if i'm DIY a patch from an inner tube, i'll coat both surfaces with
the rubber cement after a naptha cleaning & allow both surfaces to
_dry_ (NO CHEATING!)

Per Mark Janeba:
One annoyance: In the latest box I bought (probably 15 years ago), the
foil peels off before the cellophane. (From the day I got the box) I
just catch a corner with a fingernail and peel away; it leaves an
annoying (but harmless) munged part on the edge of the patch.

Geeze, I thought that was the way they were supposed to work. All my tires
have patches covered with cellophane...
--
PeteCresswell