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#101
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Front cracking noise
On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 21:23:49 -0500, Joy Beeson
wrote: On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 12:00:24 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: Well, I guess it might work if she runs no more than one at a time... Reminds me of church camp a little over sixty years ago. When we made breakfast, we had to check with the folks in the apartment below before we plugged in our toaster. If both groups used heat-producing appliances at the same time, the fuse would blow. Exactly. This could, of course, have been corrected by simply putting a penny in the fuse :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
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#102
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Front cracking noise
On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 10:10:12 +0700, John B. Slocomb
wrote: This could, of course, have been corrected by simply putting a penny in the fuse :-) I had an interesting experience in that line. I wanted an overhead light in the sewing room, and I wanted to be able to plug my iron into the ceiling so that the cord wouldn't drag over what I was trying to flatten. (I've seriously considered buying an off-the-grid iron, but they are expensive and I don't know where to buy the fuel.) So the resident engineer bought a ceramic light fixture with an outlet that could take high current, and connected it to the switched outlet with a thick orange extension cord designed for high current, and cut the cord to the exact length to minimize resistance. This provided a safety factor, in that if the light was turned off, the iron was not connected, and I always turn the light off when leaving a room. (A habit that causes me some stress in places where the light is on a motion detector. Especially when the switch I used to need to hit is still in place.) Fast forward a decade or so. He was putting dimmer switches on various lights and I thought that here was the solution to just barely bright enough to sew being way, way too bright for typing. And it would also reduce the blue light at bedtime problem, since incandescent lights (we still have a few stashed away) get redder when operated below their designed voltage. A couple of weeks later, I cleared off the ironing board and ironed a shirt. When I turned the light off, the switch was hot enough to hurt. Oops. A dimmer switch is not designed to take high current. So now I unplug the extension cord, plug in the iron, and then plug the extension into an un-switched outlet. I've learned that the key to inserting an electrical plug in the dark is to feel for the round hole for the ground prong. With the tip of the round prong in this hole, it's easy to rotate the two flat prongs into the invisible slots. -- Joy Beeson joy beeson at comcast dot net http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/ |
#103
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Front cracking noise
On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 22:40:03 -0500, Joy Beeson
wrote: On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 10:10:12 +0700, John B. Slocomb wrote: This could, of course, have been corrected by simply putting a penny in the fuse :-) I had an interesting experience in that line. I wanted an overhead light in the sewing room, and I wanted to be able to plug my iron into the ceiling so that the cord wouldn't drag over what I was trying to flatten. (I've seriously considered buying an off-the-grid iron, but they are expensive and I don't know where to buy the fuel.) So the resident engineer bought a ceramic light fixture with an outlet that could take high current, and connected it to the switched outlet with a thick orange extension cord designed for high current, and cut the cord to the exact length to minimize resistance. This provided a safety factor, in that if the light was turned off, the iron was not connected, and I always turn the light off when leaving a room. (A habit that causes me some stress in places where the light is on a motion detector. Especially when the switch I used to need to hit is still in place.) Fast forward a decade or so. He was putting dimmer switches on various lights and I thought that here was the solution to just barely bright enough to sew being way, way too bright for typing. And it would also reduce the blue light at bedtime problem, since incandescent lights (we still have a few stashed away) get redder when operated below their designed voltage. A couple of weeks later, I cleared off the ironing board and ironed a shirt. When I turned the light off, the switch was hot enough to hurt. Oops. A dimmer switch is not designed to take high current. So now I unplug the extension cord, plug in the iron, and then plug the extension into an un-switched outlet. I've learned that the key to inserting an electrical plug in the dark is to feel for the round hole for the ground prong. With the tip of the round prong in this hole, it's easy to rotate the two flat prongs into the invisible slots. With all the made in XYZ stuff you don't need to be a bit careful about the round pins and the flat pins. I have several extension cords with receptacles that accept a round pin for the power and neutral legs and a flat pin for the ground :-( -- Cheers, John B. |
#104
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Front cracking noise
On Mon, 18 Feb 2019 22:40:03 -0500, Joy Beeson wrote:
I've learned that the key to inserting an electrical plug in the dark is to feel for the round hole for the ground prong. With the tip of the round prong in this hole, it's easy to rotate the two flat prongs into the invisible slots. Then you just "love" our sockets. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AS/NZS_3112#/media/ File:Australian_dual_switched_power_point.jpg Fail to properly orientate the flat earth pin vertical and keep it there and fun ensures. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AS/NZS_3112 |
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