Front cracking noise

On 2/14/2019 2:27 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:
Frank Krygowski writes:

On 2/14/2019 1:42 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:
AMuzi writes:

On 2/14/2019 10:06 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was
getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden.
The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that
tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on
your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The
bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in
the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron
to fix the dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it
against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting
spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a
nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to
fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the
fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've
scraped off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


Advanced would be Thermite made from scavenged beer cans and fence
nails, pulverized between rocks.

I'll shake the hand of any man that can light thermite with a flint and
steel.

My thoughts exactly!

We're agreed then: No cyclist worthy of the name should be without a
few inches of magnesium ribbon in his or her seat bag.

Makes a handy backup headlight, too.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 10:42:28 AM UTC-8, Radey Shouman wrote:
AMuzi writes:

On 2/14/2019 10:06 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was
getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden.
The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that
tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on
your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The
bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in
the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron
to fix the dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it
against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting
spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a
nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to
fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the
fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've
scraped off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


Advanced would be Thermite made from scavenged beer cans and fence
nails, pulverized between rocks.

I'll shake the hand of any man that can light thermite with a flint and
steel.

--
Are you supposing that if that could be done there would be a hand to shake?

writes:

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 10:42:28 AM UTC-8, Radey Shouman wrote:
AMuzi writes:

On 2/14/2019 10:06 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was
getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden.
The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that
tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on
your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The
bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in
the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron
to fix the dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it
against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting
spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a
nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to
fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the
fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've
scraped off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


Advanced would be Thermite made from scavenged beer cans and fence
nails, pulverized between rocks.

I'll shake the hand of any man that can light thermite with a flint and
steel.

--
Are you supposing that if that could be done there would be a hand to shake?

I'd shake a stump, even.

--

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond.* The bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the
dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it against a
steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting spark to start a fire, get
it good and hot while you pry a nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand
of fence wire to fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in
the fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've scraped
off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


You missed fashioning your own soldering flux out of pine sap.

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that* concerned with cost in that regard.

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.

On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 11:06:41 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond.* The bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the
dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it against a
steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting spark to start a fire, get
it good and hot while you pry a nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand
of fence wire to fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in
the fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've scraped
off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.

Twn't work. You'll have to clean the connection to be soldered and for
that you'll need some sort of "flux". It is said that bear's grease
works well in extreme conditions so your instructions should start out
by saying, "First, catch your bear..."
--

Cheers,

John B.

On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
concerned with cost in that regard.

Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg


By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.
--

Cheers,

John B.

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
concerned with cost in that regard.

Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg


By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.
--

Cheers,

John B.

Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had aluminium wiring in it.

Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.

Cheers

Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
concerned with cost in that regard.

Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg


By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub
I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.
--

Cheers,

John B.

Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the
number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had aluminium wiring in it.

Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.

Cheers


I wouldn't buy a house with aluminum wiring, and yet most of the power
system up to your house is all aluminum wires.

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 9:08:29 AM UTC-5, Ralph Barone wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
concerned with cost in that regard.

Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg


By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub
I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.
--

Cheers,

John B.

Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the
number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had aluminium wiring in it.

Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.

Cheers


I wouldn't buy a house with aluminum wiring, and yet most of the power
system up to your house is all aluminum wires.

According to a number of studies done here in Canada a house with aluminium wiring is 55 times more likely to have a fire than one with copper wiring. Therefore, NO! I would NOT buy a house with aluminium wiring.

Cheers