Front cracking noise

Steve, you have to get used to the first response of virtually everyone on this group to say, "You're wrong" regardless that they haven't even a passing interest or bit of knowledge about the subject. I've had two people here telling me I don't know how to program after 40+ years in he business and the two that said this weren't in the business.

Hahaha... no worries! I remember those middle-school ****ing contests. ;-)

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 1:43:03 PM UTC-6, wrote:

Also - when someone like Weeks states that he saw a hub configured with a sealed bearing on one side and a cone bearing on the other precisely why would you say he hadn't? Were you there looking over his shoulder and saw something that he didn't? While I admit I've never seen a standard hub of that nature, I only saw Dyno hubs from long ago and am not going to counter someone else unless I personally know the specific hub they are speaking of.

So to me it appears that you're the one pulling something out of their ass.

I hate pulling stuff out of my ass... ruins my day. ;-)
One more attempt to clarify... I have not seen the inside of a Shimano dynohub. 8 years ago while I was figuring out how to approach the repair of my Joule I hub, I found an exploded view diagram of a Shimano hub. It's "Image 12" in the document I linked to earlier. In that diagram, only the non-output side bearing is shown. The output-side part of the hub looks almost identical to the Joule hub, which I *did* see. Another striking similarity is the output connector: the one in the Shimano diagram is *identical* to the one on the Joule hub. Now, since there were these similarities, and it's known that the Joule hub is made by Sanyo, it seemed reasonable to suggest that the Shimano hub *might* also be a Sanyo product. My only intention was to give the OP a rough idea of what might be in store if a repair was attempted
There it is. :-)

John B. Slocomb wrote:
:On Sat, 16 Feb 2019 01:45:43 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote:

:John B. Slocomb wrote:
::On Sat, 16 Feb 2019 01:06:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:
:
::John B. Slocomb wrote:
:: On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 06:01:11 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
:: wrote:
::
:: On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
:: On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
:: wrote:
::
:: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:
::
:: Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.
::
:: There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
:: aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
:: your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
:: conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
:: cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
:: concerned with cost in that regard.
::
:: Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
:: house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
:: given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
:: common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
:: are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
:: See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg
::
::
:: By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)
::
:: Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
:: was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
:: repair.
::
:: Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he
:: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
:: It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub
:: I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
:: Hope this helps.
:: --
::
:: Cheers,
::
:: John B.
::
:: Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the
:: number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had aluminium wiring in it.
::
:: Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.
::
:: Cheers
::
:: You are being a little ridiculous, aren't you. All commercial wiring
:: used in the U.S. is rated for it's voltage and amperage carrying
:: capacity. Do you actually believe that the aluminum wire makers have
:: somehow coherence the rating authorities into over rating aluminum
:: wire?
::
:: Or perhaps the answer is that a large number of ignorant people
:: overload their home electrical circuits and then blame the resulting
:: fire on the wires?
:: --
::
:: Cheers,
::
:: John B.
::
::
::Or that early aluminum home wiring systems didn't properly take into
::account the oxidation that always forms on aluminum, and its greater
::thermal expansion, resulting in dangerous high impedance connections.
::
::The fact that aluminum is used from the generating plant right up to your
::doorstep indicates that aluminum can be used safely for high voltage, high
::current circuits. However, either because the home aluminum wiring systems
::weren't properly designed, or because installers didn't install them
::properly, they caused a disproportionate number of house fires, which
::essentially resulting in aluminum house wiring disappearing from the
::market.
:
::Ask any electrical inspector how many times he has found a coin
::inserted in the old screw type fuse blocks, or oversize fuse wire in
::the even older type of fuses. I have even seen a piece of bent wire
::inserted in a fuse box that was intended to prevent a conventional
::"breaker" from tripping.
:
:
:What the **** has that got to with aluminum wire? The aluminum wire that
:was used for branch circuits in houses in the late sixities and early 70s
:is crap. The alloy used was unsuitable -- it has very much movement with
:temperature, that movement doesn't match the expansion and contraction
:of the devices it's terminated on, and it's very prone to oxidation. In
:addition, the devices used allowed the wire to creep, creating loose
:connections, which leads to heat, which leads to fire. The stuff is
:unsafe, as installed. Poor modifications to it make it worse. Lots of
:those have been done by supposedly qualified electricians.

:Strange :-) I worked on electrical systems, both interior and exterior
:in the 1970's and never found a great deal of difference in the wire
:used, in fact sometimes it came off the same roll. I'm thinking of
:something like #4 stranded aluminum that we used for both entrances as

What's that got to do with the 10 and 12 AWG stuff used as branch
wiring, which is what's at issue? Higher gauge wire is generally used
as feeders, so it has fewer connections to have problems, and the
connections used are mechanically different (a clamp, instead of being
wrapped around a screw.)

:well as high current interior wiring. And, by the way, pure aluminum
:doesn't corrode to any great extent, or at least there is some stuff

Bull****. Pure aluminum corrodes very quickly. It forms a layer of
alumium oxide, which protects the underlying surface from further
corrosion. This is why it's possible to have an unpainted aluminum
surface. (unlike, say, iron oxide, which doesn't protect the
subsurface). Al2O3 is a poor conductor, which leads to heat in
connections. That's very bad news in electrical systems.




--
There's nothing sadder than an ontologist without an ontogenesis.
-- some guy with a beard

On 2/16/2019 1:21 AM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 21:41:51 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 2/15/2019 8:23 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 16 Feb 2019 01:06:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

The fact that aluminum is used from the generating plant right up to your
doorstep indicates that aluminum can be used safely for high voltage, high
current circuits. However, either because the home aluminum wiring systems
weren't properly designed, or because installers didn't install them
properly, they caused a disproportionate number of house fires, which
essentially resulting in aluminum house wiring disappearing from the
market.

Ask any electrical inspector how many times he has found a coin
inserted in the old screw type fuse blocks, or oversize fuse wire in
the even older type of fuses. I have even seen a piece of bent wire
inserted in a fuse box that was intended to prevent a conventional
"breaker" from tripping.

There have always been, and will always be, totally stupid homeowner
mistakes. That's not the source of the risk with aluminum wiring, except
perhaps in the hands of an incompetent do-it-yourselfer. Especially when
it was first popularized, safe use practices were apparently just beyond
the skill set of the typical electrician.

And these days, fixing the problem is very costly. Our good friends (now
living in a distant state) were trying to sell their condo, one with
aluminum wiring. It added greatly to the complication and expense.

Or go to any housing supply store and see the "extension cords" that
allow 6 or 8 devices to be plugged into a single wall socket.

I think that's much less of a problem than it used to be. LED lights
draw far less current than incandescents. Modern TVs, stereos etc. are
also much less current-hungry.

If you don't plug two toasters and a hair dryer into the same circuit as
your vacuum cleaner, you'll probably be OK. And if you're not OK, the
breaker will trip, assuming you haven't disabled it.

But a great many people just don't understand. "If the breaker blows
it is the fault of the breaker!"

I would use my wife as an example. A really good cook, took care of
the kid well, watches the pennies, and has, literally, no concept of
electrical loads. By screaming and hollering I've convinced her not to
connect more then one device to one outlet but I suspect that way down
deep inside she considers that as simply some sort of male fetish.

As I've noticed that other people's wives seem to also have the idea
that extension cords with many receptacle sockets are a great
invention I doubt that my wife is unique :-)

Well, next to my favorite reclining chair, I've fitted a six-outlet
conversion over the two outlet receptacle. Here's what gets plugged into
it: a floor lamp with four separate bulbs (55 W total), a laptop
computer's charger (5 W) and occasionally a cell phone charger (6 W). So
about 0.6 Amps. There's something similar going on over at the
TV/stereo/DVD cabinet, using a power strip. It might top out at about 3
or 4 Amps, as a guess.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 2/16/2019 2:08 AM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 21:46:02 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 2/15/2019 7:38 PM, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 06:11:11 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 9:08:29 AM UTC-5, Ralph Barone wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
concerned with cost in that regard.

Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg


By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub
I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.
--

Cheers,

John B.

Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the
number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had aluminium wiring in it.

Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.

Cheers


I wouldn't buy a house with aluminum wiring, and yet most of the power
system up to your house is all aluminum wires.

According to a number of studies done here in Canada a house with aluminium wiring is 55 times more likely to have a fire than one with copper wiring. Therefore, NO! I would NOT buy a house with aluminium wiring.

Cheers

You mean that a house in Canada "code wired" with aluminum wire is
more likely to burn down due to the wiring than a house "code wired"
with copper wires?

I believe that is the case, from what I've read and heard.

It seems really strange. #8 wire @60 degrees(C) can carry 40 amps if
copper and 30 amps if aluminum, #4 copper = 70 amps versus aluminum at
55, and so on. One would assume that if the proper sized breakers were
used that amperage would be restricted to safe levels.

Again, the issue isn't the flat-out carrying capacity of the wires
themselves. It's the accidental increase of resistance at the
connections. That's where the temperatures can rise and get out of control.

Copper wire isn't immune to this stuff. My mother's house once had a
dangerously hot outlet, the one serving her refrigerator. It was scary
enough that she called the fire department. But the problem is far, far
less common with copper wire.



--
- Frank Krygowski

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 5:23:50 PM UTC-8, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 16 Feb 2019 01:06:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 06:01:11 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
concerned with cost in that regard.

Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg


By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub
I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.
--

Cheers,

John B.

Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the
number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had aluminium wiring in it.

Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.

Cheers

You are being a little ridiculous, aren't you. All commercial wiring
used in the U.S. is rated for it's voltage and amperage carrying
capacity. Do you actually believe that the aluminum wire makers have
somehow coherence the rating authorities into over rating aluminum
wire?

Or perhaps the answer is that a large number of ignorant people
overload their home electrical circuits and then blame the resulting
fire on the wires?
--

Cheers,

John B.


Or that early aluminum home wiring systems didn't properly take into
account the oxidation that always forms on aluminum, and its greater
thermal expansion, resulting in dangerous high impedance connections.

The fact that aluminum is used from the generating plant right up to your
doorstep indicates that aluminum can be used safely for high voltage, high
current circuits. However, either because the home aluminum wiring systems
weren't properly designed, or because installers didn't install them
properly, they caused a disproportionate number of house fires, which
essentially resulting in aluminum house wiring disappearing from the
market.

Ask any electrical inspector how many times he has found a coin
inserted in the old screw type fuse blocks, or oversize fuse wire in
the even older type of fuses. I have even seen a piece of bent wire
inserted in a fuse box that was intended to prevent a conventional
"breaker" from tripping.

Or go to any housing supply store and see the "extension cords" that
allow 6 or 8 devices to be plugged into a single wall socket.
--

Cheers,

John B.

What in the hell do you know about electrical inspectors in the US?

Furthermore what in hell gives you the idea that you have to overload a circuit simply because you have more devices? I have three smart phone chargers, a modem, my computer and two printers on a circuit and I draw less power than half of the lime capacity. I just got a new refrigerator with almost twice the capacity of my old "energy efficient" one. This refrigerator uses almost half of the power of the other.

You are so far behind the times that you should hesitate to comment on about half the things you do. Now the total electricity use in my home is $20 a month which is my senior citizen discount.

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 5:32:11 PM UTC-8, John B. Slocomb wrote:

Glass, if I'm not mistaken was the high end installation. The low end
was ceramic insulators with what appeared to be asphalt insulated
wires :-)

My Grandfather's house built in 18-- something was like that. An
uncle, who was a professional electrician, estimated that it might be
cheaper to build a new house rather then change the wiring to meet
code standards :-(

If your grandfather's house was built anywhere other than New York in the 1800's it was not wired for electricity. Virtually all lighting and heating was gas or coal.

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 5:45:46 PM UTC-8, David Scheidt wrote:
John B. Slocomb wrote:
:On Sat, 16 Feb 2019 01:06:22 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

:John B. Slocomb wrote:
: On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 06:01:11 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
: wrote:
:
: On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
: On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
: wrote:
:
: On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:
:
: Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.
:
: There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
: aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
: your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
: conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
: cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
: concerned with cost in that regard.
:
: Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
: house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
: given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
: common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
: are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
: See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg
:
:
: By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)
:
: Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
: was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
: repair.
:
: Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he
: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
: It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the hub
: I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
: Hope this helps.
: --
:
: Cheers,
:
: John B.
:
: Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the
: number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had aluminium wiring in it.
:
: Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.
:
: Cheers
:
: You are being a little ridiculous, aren't you. All commercial wiring
: used in the U.S. is rated for it's voltage and amperage carrying
: capacity. Do you actually believe that the aluminum wire makers have
: somehow coherence the rating authorities into over rating aluminum
: wire?
:
: Or perhaps the answer is that a large number of ignorant people
: overload their home electrical circuits and then blame the resulting
: fire on the wires?
: --
:
: Cheers,
:
: John B.
:
:
:Or that early aluminum home wiring systems didn't properly take into
:account the oxidation that always forms on aluminum, and its greater
:thermal expansion, resulting in dangerous high impedance connections.
:
:The fact that aluminum is used from the generating plant right up to your
:doorstep indicates that aluminum can be used safely for high voltage, high
:current circuits. However, either because the home aluminum wiring systems
:weren't properly designed, or because installers didn't install them
:properly, they caused a disproportionate number of house fires, which
:essentially resulting in aluminum house wiring disappearing from the
:market.

:Ask any electrical inspector how many times he has found a coin
:inserted in the old screw type fuse blocks, or oversize fuse wire in
:the even older type of fuses. I have even seen a piece of bent wire
:inserted in a fuse box that was intended to prevent a conventional
:"breaker" from tripping.


What the **** has that got to with aluminum wire? The aluminum wire that
was used for branch circuits in houses in the late sixities and early 70s
is crap. The alloy used was unsuitable -- it has very much movement with
temperature, that movement doesn't match the expansion and contraction
of the devices it's terminated on, and it's very prone to oxidation. In
addition, the devices used allowed the wire to creep, creating loose
connections, which leads to heat, which leads to fire. The stuff is
unsafe, as installed. Poor modifications to it make it worse. Lots of
those have been done by supposedly qualified electricians.

The aluminum wire that's used for transmission lines is different, and
works quite well for that. So does the aluminum wire that's nearly
universally used for service feeders in the US. So does the modern
aluminum wire that's sometimes used for branch circuits; it's a
different alloy, that has expansion much better matched to the devices
it's terminated in, and the dangers of oxidation and the requirement
to use an anti-corrosive paste on splices and terminations makes it
perform as well as copper.


Not according to my electrician brother. He said that aluminum corrosion which is aluminum oxide is flammable. The references that Andrew gave were another point entirely different and had nothing to do with the alloy used - it showed that constant insertion of plugs into an outlet of would move the connections slightly and loosen the conductors slightly increasing the resistance across the wall socket. These probably were not overloaded and the alloy of aluminum was not important - but the aluminum connection to the copper wall socket was since even the humidity in the air in a home causes corrosion and that plus the electrolytic problem raised resistance and heat high enough to ignite the aluminum oxide.

I worried about wiring faults so much that in the phone installation company I was minority member in, I would use conduit unless we had a concrete wiring channel. Phone systems are low voltage systems. Luckily we usually only had to run minimal conduit. But we were confident that we could never be held accountable for the lives of people high in a skyscraper.

John B. Slocomb writes:

On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 06:01:11 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 2:40:00 AM UTC-5, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Thu, 14 Feb 2019 19:11:39 -0800 (PST), Steve Weeks
wrote:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:12:07 PM UTC-6, Radey Shouman wrote:

Almost all of this is unfounded speculation.

There was no speculation at all; well, except for being skeptical about
aluminum wire. I haven't serviced a Shimano dynohub, so I'll take
your word for that. But aluminum has only 61% of the electrical
conductivity of copper, which would make it a strange choice. It's
cheaper than copper, but Shimano doesn't strike me as being *that*
concerned with cost in that regard.

Aluminum wire is quite commonly used in "exterior electrical works" -
house wiring, etc., for two reasons, (1) it is lighter in weight for a
given gauge and (2) it is substantially cheaper then copper. It is
common enough that aluminum -copper and copper -aluminum connectors
are commonly stocked by commercial electrical suppliers.
See: https://bit.ly/2SytkSg


By guess is that Shimano uses the (1) reason :-)

Also, why are you so defensive? I said at the outset that my overhaul
was of a different hub, but was presented as an example of a dynohub
repair.

Dan Burkhart has a video of a Shimano dynohub repair he
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXptXRqxj9c
It looks like cup/cone bearings as you indicated. Also, unlike the
hub I serviced, there was no need to unsolder the output wire!
Hope this helps.
--

Cheers,

John B.

Aluminium wiring has a VERY BAD reputation in house wiring due to the
number of fires it has caused. I would NEVER buy a house that had
aluminium wiring in it.

Do a search with: aluminium wiring and fires" to see just how dangerous that crap is.

Cheers

You are being a little ridiculous, aren't you. All commercial wiring
used in the U.S. is rated for it's voltage and amperage carrying
capacity. Do you actually believe that the aluminum wire makers have
somehow coherence the rating authorities into over rating aluminum
wire?

Or perhaps the answer is that a large number of ignorant people
overload their home electrical circuits and then blame the resulting
fire on the wires?

The real problem, at least in the US, was using the wrong wire nuts,
switches, and so forth. Corrosion built up in the connections,
increasing resistance, and eventually sometimes causing fires.

I lived in an apartment building for years with aluminum wiring, nothing
ever caught on fire.

--

Steve Weeks writes:

On Friday, February 15, 2019 at 1:43:03 PM UTC-6, wrote:

Also - when someone like Weeks states that he saw a hub configured
with a sealed bearing on one side and a cone bearing on the other
precisely why would you say he hadn't? Were you there looking over
his shoulder and saw something that he didn't? While I admit I've
never seen a standard hub of that nature, I only saw Dyno hubs from
long ago and am not going to counter someone else unless I
personally know the specific hub they are speaking of.

So to me it appears that you're the one pulling something out of their ass.

I hate pulling stuff out of my ass... ruins my day. ;-)
One more attempt to clarify... I have not seen the inside of a Shimano
dynohub. 8 years ago while I was figuring out how to approach the
repair of my Joule I hub, I found an exploded view diagram of a
Shimano hub. It's "Image 12" in the document I linked to earlier. In
that diagram, only the non-output side bearing is shown. The
output-side part of the hub looks almost identical to the Joule hub,
which I *did* see. Another striking similarity is the output
connector: the one in the Shimano diagram is *identical* to the one on
the Joule hub. Now, since there were these similarities, and it's
known that the Joule hub is made by Sanyo, it seemed reasonable to
suggest that the Shimano hub *might* also be a Sanyo product. My only
intention was to give the OP a rough idea of what might be in store if
a repair was attempted
There it is. :-)

When I was figuring out what to do with my Shimano dynamo hub I looked
up the instructions. Shimano claimed that only one bearing was
serviceable, which led to speculation that there was something
mysterious about the other one. There isn't -- it's just that taking
the whole thing apart without breaking a wire is hard, and someone
judged it better not to suggest doing so.

--