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#1
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cutting new threads on hub
I'm not a machinist (yet?), but if you wanted to use a die you'd have to go too small, I think. Try using a triangular needle file to clean up the existing threads. That's what I do with the threads on bolts that I have shortened. If this works you're all set. It's a cheaper solution, too. -- U-Turn - Small fish, big pond Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield. 'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39) -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
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#2
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cutting new threads on hub
Here's a pic. +----------------------------------------------------------------+ | Attachment filename: cleaning up the threads (small).jpg | |Download attachment: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/166773| +----------------------------------------------------------------+ -- U-Turn - Small fish, big pond Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield. 'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39) -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#3
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cutting new threads on hub
U-turn's right, they are called die(s). Don't buy one, as you'll also need the specific tool meant to hold that specific die, and a die big enough to cut those kinds of threads will be really expensive new. Just go to a good machine shop and ask if they'll re-cut those threads for you. That should be cheaper. -- gerblefranklin I don't break equipment, I make it cheaper. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ gerblefranklin's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4295 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#4
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cutting new threads on hub
thanks guys -- Sofa - King of TUni 'You're perfect Sofa!' - Scott (via 'Michael Moore' (http://www.hardylaw.net/Truth_About_Bowling.html) parser ) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Sofa's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/706 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#5
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cutting new threads on hub
Out of interest are taps for drilling threads just as expensive, or are they a cheaper thing than a die? Joe -- joemarshall - dumb blonde ------------------------------------------------------------------------ joemarshall's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1545 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#6
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cutting new threads on hub
U-Turn wrote: *Try using a triangular needle file to clean up the existing threads. That's what I do with the threads on bolts that I have shortened.* There is a special file that is made to dress damaged threads, It has a different number of threads per inch on each side with four sides and some are different on each end for eight sets of threads per inch. One of the reasons you use this file is that a triangular file has the wrong angle for the threads. However, it's actually better to use a flat file to dress the ends, the technique is different. -- brian.slater - Nellfurtiti, the Wonder Cat Brian C. Slater AKA: Snoopy Ok, I am now officially in my normal state of -advanced- confusion. Don't try to confuse me, it won't make any difference. "To not decide is to decide" - undecided ------------------------------------------------------------------------ brian.slater's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3902 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#7
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cutting new threads on hub
joemarshall wrote: *Out of interest are taps for drilling threads just as expensive, or are they a cheaper thing than a die? Joe * Taps are more readily available and are usually a little cheaper than dies. For tapping blind holes (rather than through holes) you will ideally need a set of three taps with different profiles for each size of hole. Price is heavily dependant on quality and the cheap sets are rarely worth the money. I tend to go for good quality used taps and dies (and other tools) rather than cheap new ones. Dies require an accurately sized shaft. This is hard to do without a lathe. Taps requires an accurately sized hole, this can be done with a good set of drills. HTH Nick -- nickjb - one wheel short ------------------------------------------------------------------------ nickjb's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1074 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#8
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cutting new threads on hub
Show it to the boys in the local bike shop, they might have the expensive thread cutter, I know the bike shop I worked at twenty years ago had one. carjug -- carjug ------------------------------------------------------------------------ carjug's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/1228 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#9
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cutting new threads on hub
brian.slater wrote: * There is a special file that is made to dress damaged threads, It has a different number of threads per inch on each side with four sides and some are different on each end for eight sets of threads per inch. One of the reasons you use this file is that a triangular file has the wrong angle for the threads. * It's called a Thread Restoring File and retails for about $16. You should be able to order one through your LBS. For dressing-up a "cheapo hub", a triangular needle file, or perhaps another common needle file that has pointed edges and a lightly-curved surface, should suffice. Many people have a needle file set at home. -- U-Turn - Small fish, big pond Weep in the dojo... laugh in the battlefield. 'Strongest Coker Wheel in the World' (http://www.unicyclist.com/gallery/albup39) -- Dave Stockton ------------------------------------------------------------------------ U-Turn's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/691 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
#10
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cutting new threads on hub
If you are trying to repair interior threads a tap IS what you need. However, if the threads are completely torched you'll have to go to a little thing they call the Heli-coil. You can drill out the old threads and use the corresponding Heli-coil tap to set up your new hole to accept a tiny coil of new threads that you srew into place witha cool little tool. Auto shops use these to REPLACE the threads on cylinderheads and main bearing bolt holes. You don't have to go to a bigger bolt or pedal size because your threads and the hole are restored to there original size. A little loc-tite sets everything just fine. Beener -- Beener - oldschool onewheeler If you swear, you'll catch no fish. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Beener's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3817 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/28212 |
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