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  #51  
Old March 1st 18, 08:24 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
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Posts: 4,018
Default rubber compounds

On Thu, 01 Mar 2018 09:15:39 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

SCNR:
Wanna comment on the theory about modern lower-mass (iirc) sensors in
weather stations contributing to measuring higher global temperatures?


I just realized that I forgot the punch line.

Weather is measured with weather instruments. Climate is measured by
temperature proxy means, such as counting tree rings, trapped gasses
in ice, pollen, etc.
https://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/news/what-are-proxy-data
It's a very different world where statistical creativity has replaced
bad data from toy weather stations.

One of the few places where climate and weather collide is when some
researcher gets funding to collect weather data to demonstrate that
the IPCC climate predictions are coming true. In other words, that
the oceans are rising, the temperatures are rising, and the storms are
getting worse. To the best of my limited knowledge and reading, I
haven't seen any reliable correlation.

Incidentally, this is a graph of the local rainfall data I threw
together:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/slv-wx/SLV-rainfall.jpg
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/slv-wx/
However, if I want to use it for predicting future rainfall using a
polynomial expansion, all I need to do us use an odd number power to
produce the next great appocalyptic flood, or an even number power to
predict drought.
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/slv-wx/SLV-rainfall-forecast-06.xls
This doesn't illustrate much, except how easy it is to tweak trends
and predictions.

Gone...
--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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  #52  
Old March 3rd 18, 02:03 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,018
Default rubber compounds

On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 13:05:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 3/1/2018 12:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

4. Nobody calibrates home weather stations. Select your home area on
Wundermap and notice the wide variations in literally every
measurement:
https://www.wunderground.com/wundermap


I'd love to calibrate, but I doubt it's possible.


Calibration isn't the problem. It's siting, or where to put the
sensors.

Probably 15 or 20 years ago, for Christmas I was given a basic Oregon
Scientific weather unit with a remote, radio-linked thermometer. That
went on the outside north wall of the house and gave obviously better
readings than the analog unit on the south side of the house, even
though the latter is under the porch roof.


You're allegedly trying to measure the AIR temperature, not the
temperature of the building wall. The temp sensor would be mounted at
least 5ft away from an heat radiators (like your house north wall). It
should not be surrounded by stagnant air (like the air under an
overhanging roof). Direct sunlight sunlight is an obvious bad idea.
It should use some kind of moving air. That means some kind of
radiation shield
https://www.ambientweather.com/amwesrpatean.html
that produces convective air flow, or has a built in fan to move the
air. Actually, the fan is much better than the "pagoda" design.
http://www.davisnet.com/product_documents/weather/spec_sheets/fars_sheet.pdf

What works is a 4x4 pillar, pounded into the ground, with simple tube
as a sun shield, a fan to blow air in from the bottom, and a solar
panel to power the fan. I'm not sure of the sensor height but I think
4ft would be acceptable.

But last year, the Oregon Scientific started overestimating the
temperature by something like 50 degrees. (But it was just as confident
as ever, down to a tenth of a degree!)

I did all the electronic resets, I opened the remote looking for
problems, I looked for calibration info online, etc. All failed. And I
couldn't find replacement units online.


That's quite a large error. I think the sensor is kaput. I have
spares of the older Oregon Scientific wireless sensors as long as you
don't mine sun faded yellow plastic and dirt finish. How many do you
want?

So now there's a good old analog thermometer mounted outside a north
side window.


Sigh. So much for high tech. However, I shouldn't complain. I have
a bimetallic spring type dial thermometer hung in a tree (away from
the house). Such thermometers are inherently inaccurate and not worth
calibrating, so I don't have to worry about it.

The Di2 analogy is left as an exercise for the reader. ;-)


Huh?

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #53  
Old March 3rd 18, 02:29 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,018
Default rubber compounds

On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 12:42:46 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 2/28/2018 11:59 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

My firewood "processing" equipment:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/slides/chain-saws-02.html
I also fix chain saws on the side for friends, neighbors, and extra
cash...

Stay tuned to this thread for yet another exciting topic drift.


With all those chainsaws, I can't wait to hear about your juggling skills!


About the same as my ability to juggle the company books. The three
Homelite EZ saws in the foreground are about 40 years old, lack a
chain brake, and are not in the best condition. I purchased the all
red one new. Sometime in the past century, I loaned it to a friend,
who ran it without any oil mixed with fuel until it froze. The others
are little better than parts, or so I thought. I traded all three to
my neighbors son, who claimed to know something about chainsaw repair.
A few days later, all three were running. I was impressed with his
mechanical abilities, and depressed that I was too lazy to fix them
myself. Oh well. That leaves me with 4 gas and 2 electric which run,
and 1 gas saws that don't run.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #54  
Old March 3rd 18, 02:49 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default rubber compounds

On 3/2/2018 8:03 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 1 Mar 2018 13:05:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 3/1/2018 12:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

4. Nobody calibrates home weather stations. Select your home area on
Wundermap and notice the wide variations in literally every
measurement:
https://www.wunderground.com/wundermap


I'd love to calibrate, but I doubt it's possible.


Calibration isn't the problem. It's siting, or where to put the
sensors.


Well, as noted, this thing's error is FAR greater than siting would
generate. Besides, it's been in the same site for all those 15 or 20
years. The crazy readings began a year ago, more or less.


Probably 15 or 20 years ago, for Christmas I was given a basic Oregon
Scientific weather unit with a remote, radio-linked thermometer. That
went on the outside north wall of the house and gave obviously better
readings than the analog unit on the south side of the house, even
though the latter is under the porch roof.


You're allegedly trying to measure the AIR temperature, not the
temperature of the building wall. The temp sensor would be mounted at
least 5ft away from an heat radiators (like your house north wall). It
should not be surrounded by stagnant air (like the air under an
overhanging roof). Direct sunlight sunlight is an obvious bad idea.
It should use some kind of moving air. That means some kind of
radiation shield


More detail: The sensor is zip-tied to a vertical plastic conduit that
protects the main power line input to the electrical meter. The conduit
is separated from the wall by some fraction of an inch, and the sensor
touches the conduit only down the center of the sensor's back, so it's
about 3" away from that wall. The wall behind the sensor is insulated,
and the vinyl siding has air pockets built in from its faux shingle
shape. There's also a thin layer of foil-skinned styrofoam between the
ancient wood siding and the modern vinyl. All this means heat gain from
the house must be negligible. Being on the north side of the house, it's
perpetually shaded. It's about five feet above the ground. And as I
said, it certainly worked well enough for a decade or two. Perhaps not
as well as the siting setup you describe, but well enough for my purposes.

But last year, the Oregon Scientific started overestimating the
temperature by something like 50 degrees. (But it was just as confident
as ever, down to a tenth of a degree!)

I did all the electronic resets, I opened the remote looking for
problems, I looked for calibration info online, etc. All failed. And I
couldn't find replacement units online.


That's quite a large error. I think the sensor is kaput.


Yes, that's what I decided. It's doubtlessly a thermistor, and they're
not bulletproof like thermocouples tend to be.

I have
spares of the older Oregon Scientific wireless sensors as long as you
don't mine sun faded yellow plastic and dirt finish. How many do you
want?


One would do just fine, if it works! If you're serious, the base unit is
model BA928. The sensor is THR128. You can probably decode my "reply to"
address. In real life the address lacks upper case characters.


So now there's a good old analog thermometer mounted outside a north
side window.


Sigh. So much for high tech. However, I shouldn't complain. I have
a bimetallic spring type dial thermometer hung in a tree (away from
the house). Such thermometers are inherently inaccurate and not worth
calibrating, so I don't have to worry about it.

The Di2 analogy is left as an exercise for the reader. ;-)


Huh?


sigh Ok, I'll do it for you.

Friction shifters are like an analog thermometer. Not super precise,
require a bit more thinking, can't be interfaced to your Facebook Live
feed, but they work in their own way pretty much forever. Di2 is high
tech electronic shifting that works much more precisely until one day in
the far future it's suddenly off by 50 gear inches.

(They're never as funny if you have to explain them.)

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #55  
Old March 3rd 18, 04:10 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default rubber compounds

Frank Krygowski wrote:

With all those chainsaws, I can't wait to
hear about your juggling skills!


I know how to juggle with 4 balls. Our 2x2 is
perhaps more correct as the balls never change
hands with the simples method. Juggling is
great fun for kids at a summer resort but even
for adults it can be not only fun but actually
useful, for example if you had some mildly
unpleasant experience, like some moron was
shouting at you, and now you don't care about
the whole situation but still can't stop
thinking about it, then juggling for 10m often
makes it go away. And if it doesn't, you can
always do it for ten more minutes

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #56  
Old March 3rd 18, 08:24 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,018
Default rubber compounds

On Fri, 2 Mar 2018 20:49:05 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

More detail: The sensor is zip-tied to a vertical plastic conduit that
protects the main power line input to the electrical meter. The conduit
is separated from the wall by some fraction of an inch, and the sensor
touches the conduit only down the center of the sensor's back, so it's
about 3" away from that wall. The wall behind the sensor is insulated,
and the vinyl siding has air pockets built in from its faux shingle
shape. There's also a thin layer of foil-skinned styrofoam between the
ancient wood siding and the modern vinyl. All this means heat gain from
the house must be negligible. Being on the north side of the house, it's
perpetually shaded. It's about five feet above the ground. And as I
said, it certainly worked well enough for a decade or two. Perhaps not
as well as the siting setup you describe, but well enough for my purposes.


Actually, that's not too horrible. 3" away from the wall is still to
close. More like 5ft or more is required to prevent heating by the
house.

I'm down to maintaining only one mountain top weather station. (Sigh
of relief). Too much work and driving up and down rotten roads. To
deal with accuracy and calibration, there's the CWOP site which
compares temperature readings from individual weather stations with
neighboring weather stations and running the MADIS quality check:
http://wxqa.com
If something is awry, the graphs will usually show a problem. Here's
a sample of one such station in Md. Note the error reports in red:
http://weather.gladstonefamily.net/site/C0351
However, it doesn't always work as expected. I was maintaining one
weather station that was constantly showing errors when compared to
the surrounding weather stations. So, I visited all 6 nearby stations
and found them all to be miserably sited. Our stations was reading
correctly, but the system favors the majority, even if all of them are
wrong.

Yes, that's what I decided. It's doubtlessly a thermistor, and they're
not bulletproof like thermocouples tend to be.


Yep, it's probably a 10K thermistor.
https://www.wxforum.net/index.php?topic=17353.0
They do fail, but are easily replaced.

One would do just fine, if it works! If you're serious, the base unit is
model BA928. The sensor is THR128. You can probably decode my "reply to"
address. In real life the address lacks upper case characters.


I found a THR128 and a THGR268 with hangers. They look old and the
battery compartments haven't been opened. I suspect I'll find the
usual corrosion and corruption inside. I'll clean it out and test it
before sending. I think both will work. Send me a mailing address by
email (address in signature).

Hmmm... the BA928 has a phase of the moon feature. Probably designed
for werewolves.

Sigh. So much for high tech. However, I shouldn't complain. I have
a bimetallic spring type dial thermometer hung in a tree (away from
the house). Such thermometers are inherently inaccurate and not worth
calibrating, so I don't have to worry about it.

The Di2 analogy is left as an exercise for the reader. ;-)


Huh?


sigh Ok, I'll do it for you.

Friction shifters are like an analog thermometer. Not super precise,
require a bit more thinking, can't be interfaced to your Facebook Live
feed, but they work in their own way pretty much forever. Di2 is high
tech electronic shifting that works much more precisely until one day in
the far future it's suddenly off by 50 gear inches.

(They're never as funny if you have to explain them.)


I still don't get it. Please don't explain. Maybe my brain will
recover from tonights radio club meeting in the morning.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #57  
Old March 3rd 18, 08:51 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,018
Default rubber compounds

On Fri, 02 Mar 2018 23:24:13 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

I found a THR128 and a THGR268 with hangers. They look old and the
battery compartments haven't been opened. I suspect I'll find the
usual corrosion and corruption inside. I'll clean it out and test it
before sending. I think both will work. Send me a mailing address by
email (address in signature).


The THR128 checks out just fine. No corrosion, accurate temperature,
and makes the appropriate noises on 433.925MHz. However, the THGR268
is rotted out on the inside from a leaky alkaline battery. I could
probably clean and fix it, but prefer to salvage the components to fix
other sensors. So, you get just the THR128.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #58  
Old March 5th 18, 06:54 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default rubber compounds

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

My firewood "processing" equipment:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/slides/chain-saws-02.html


Very cool as said. Here is mine [1].

I built the wood shed! My first big/little
venture into construction/wood.

The only thing that is missing from the photo
is a small sledge hammer, because someone
borrowed it and didn't return it. So two of
each - axe, hammer, and wedge - one big, and
one small!

(Also a bench grinder and some fringe equipment
to sharpen stuff.)

Feeling cold or condensation on an inside
wall is a sure sign of
insufficient insulation.


The inside wall is made of some sort of stone
material (it engulfs a chimney) but yes, it is
colder than the outside walls which are wood.
No condensation tho. Now it's 19.2C/21% but
everything still feels cold. Perhaps it is my
own immune system...

Are there any more tests save for the
temperature/humidity? The reason I ask is every
time I wake up I'm completely out of my head.
It improves rapidly tho but even after a really
good they the sleep and morning is the same,
awful. I Googled the symptoms and it matches
perfectly "brain fog" and hypoxia! But I'm only
at 15-25 MASL so that should be
impossible, right?

[1] http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/wood-td-2018.jpg

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #59  
Old March 5th 18, 06:59 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default rubber compounds

It improves rapidly tho but even after a really
good they [...]


*day

hypoxia indeed

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #60  
Old March 5th 18, 07:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default rubber compounds

Frank Krygowski wrote:

An ordinary fireplace is usually a net loss
for heating. To prevent smoke pouring into
the room, lots of room air has to be sucked
up the chimney along with the smoke and most
of the heat. That lost room air gets replaced
by frigid outside air seeping in all around
the house. This amounts to a convective loss
that's far bigger than the radiant heat gain
from the fire itself - although that radiant
heat does feel nice.


That's exactly right. I once started to fire
like crazy when it was maybe 18C. After doing
it for 2-3 days I started to sleep in my
sleeping bag as the temperature was then
11-12C! So then I realized keeping the fire
going ain't gonna help. Only when sitting
directly in front of it did I feel the warmth.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
 




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