Mavic rim tick-tick-tick

I know from this NG that this is not uncommon but what is the best fix?
It is driving me nuts.

Steady tick----tick----tick in the rear when pedaling or coasting.
Sometimes a tick-rick---tick-rick---tick-rick. If I move my weight
forward over the front wheel it stops and then returns when I sit back.
Open Pro rim, Centaur 9sp hub, 1.7mm DB spokes, alloy nipples w/
eyelets. I laced this rim onto the old spokes when the old rim was
damaged about 4 years ago. Probably close to 10,000 miles on the rim and
a couple crashes.

Any suggestions?

Dan wrote:
I know from this NG that this is not uncommon but what is the best fix?
It is driving me nuts.

Steady tick----tick----tick in the rear when pedaling or coasting.
Sometimes a tick-rick---tick-rick---tick-rick. If I move my weight
forward over the front wheel it stops and then returns when I sit back.
Open Pro rim, Centaur 9sp hub, 1.7mm DB spokes, alloy nipples w/
eyelets. I laced this rim onto the old spokes when the old rim was
damaged about 4 years ago. Probably close to 10,000 miles on the rim and
a couple crashes.

Any suggestions?

one of two things...or both...

noise between the nipp and eyelet-drops of lindseed oil between nipp
and eyelet..or wedge that holds the rim together for welding has come
loose..noise only. A punch in the channel where the rim strip is or
drill a wee hole and a bit of glue in there.

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Dan wrote:
I know from this NG that this is not uncommon but what is the best fix?
It is driving me nuts.

Steady tick----tick----tick in the rear when pedaling or coasting.
Sometimes a tick-rick---tick-rick---tick-rick. If I move my weight
forward over the front wheel it stops and then returns when I sit back.
Open Pro rim, Centaur 9sp hub, 1.7mm DB spokes, alloy nipples w/
eyelets. I laced this rim onto the old spokes when the old rim was
damaged about 4 years ago. Probably close to 10,000 miles on the rim and
a couple crashes.

Any suggestions?

one of two things...or both...

noise between the nipp and eyelet-drops of lindseed oil between nipp
and eyelet..or wedge that holds the rim together for welding has come
loose..noise only. A punch in the channel where the rim strip is or
drill a wee hole and a bit of glue in there.


I'll try the oily nipple thing first. If I have to mess with the joint
in the rim, do I punch or drill on each side of the seam or right at the
seam? If I drill and glue, I guess I try to drill through the rim and
not necessarily through the wedgie thing. I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

Dan wrote:
I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=E...=US6048035&F=0

Dianne who? writes:

I guess I don't really know what the wedge is but I am picturing a
flat bar just under the channel where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=E...=US6048035&F=0

To bad that drawing did not include sockets and eyelets. Other than
that, it is beautifully descriptive of a reasonable rim, a MAVIC MA-2.

Jobst Brandt

wrote:
Dan wrote:
I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=E...=US6048035&F=0

and here's a photo of the real thing. this shows a welded mavic rim.

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=2rmmn2d

as peter says, either hammer a little where the existing indents are or
drill and glue. i suspect the latter is the longer term solution.

wrote:
Dianne who? writes:

I guess I don't really know what the wedge is but I am picturing a
flat bar just under the channel where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=E...=US6048035&F=0

To bad that drawing did not include sockets and eyelets. Other than
that, it is beautifully descriptive of a reasonable rim, a MAVIC MA-2.

"reasonable" for you is a rim that for the rest of us is heavy, whose
eyelets rust, and that is prone to flat spots. oh, and a rim that
requires you to wear your brake pads to fit before they reach maximum
efficiency. shall we talk about the anodizing on ma2's now?

jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Dan wrote:
I guess I don't really know
what the wedge is but I am picturing a flat bar just under the channel
where the rim tape goes.

That's basically it. Here's a drawing of one rim wedge:

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=E...=US6048035&F=0

and here's a photo of the real thing. this shows a welded mavic rim.

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=2rmmn2d

as peter says, either hammer a little where the existing indents are or
drill and glue. i suspect the latter is the longer term solution.

also available here with a description.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/275085692/

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Dan wrote:
I know from this NG that this is not uncommon but what is the best fix?
It is driving me nuts.

Steady tick----tick----tick in the rear when pedaling or coasting.
Sometimes a tick-rick---tick-rick---tick-rick. If I move my weight
forward over the front wheel it stops and then returns when I sit back.
Open Pro rim, Centaur 9sp hub, 1.7mm DB spokes, alloy nipples w/
eyelets. I laced this rim onto the old spokes when the old rim was
damaged about 4 years ago. Probably close to 10,000 miles on the rim and
a couple crashes.

Any suggestions?

one of two things...or both...

noise between the nipp and eyelet-drops of lindseed oil between nipp
and eyelet..or wedge that holds the rim together for welding has come
loose..noise only. A punch in the channel where the rim strip is or
drill a wee hole and a bit of glue in there.

I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried both
approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace the rim. Now
I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the moment it just
rattles at low speed. Its really put me off mavic rims. Which is a shame
as its difficult to get wheels built with other brands & I dont build my
own.

Stan Cox

P.s. Before you mention velocity rims I am British & have never seen a
pair over here

Sat, 21 Oct 2006 07:09:04 GMT, Stan Cox informed
us:

I had this on an open pro after just over a year of use. I tried both
approaches and neither worked. I ended up having to replace the rim. Now
I have the same problem on a cxp33. Luckily at the moment it just
rattles at low speed. Its really put me off mavic rims. Which is a shame
as its difficult to get wheels built with other brands & I dont build my
own.

Stan Cox

P.s. Before you mention velocity rims I am British & have never seen a
pair over here

I also have this annoying tick-tick from a cxp33-rim at slow speeds. I
thought the noise came from a nipple I had dropped into the hollow of the
rim, when I built the wheel. And I made several attempts to find it and
shake it out.

It is relieving to have a valid diagnosis at last. I will definately try
the drill-glue-cure. Did anyone write Mavic, to inform them, they have
room for improvement here?

Ivar of Denmark