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#11
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
RE/
I've never needed to use a wrench on the axle of mine. I just turn it by hand, and tighten the left axle nut first, since that is the one where friction on the threads tends to rotate the axle in the direction that tightens the chain. I tried doing it a few times by hand, but couldn't make it happen... maybe more practice... Meanwhile, a piece of flat steel, a hand-held grinder.... it's not pretty, but it does the job. Tangental issue: seems like brake pad alignment can get really wacked depending on whether the chain slack is taken up the same way to the same degree. I think there's a sidewall blowout lurking here for Yours Truly... -- PeteCresswell |
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#12
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
jim beam wrote:
that's a beautiful machine! any issues using the biopace with fixed chain tension? I used the same idea with my fixie. No problems at all, but I was careful to get an accurate chainline. -- Ted Bennett Portland OR |
#13
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
Rick Onanian wrote:
It sounds like you have quite a delicate wrist, however; the screw that holds a card in (or any other screw in a computer) isn't strong enough to require much force before it breaks. I was exaggerating a bit there, but believe me, I had to get a screwdriver with a full-size handle on it as my usual repair kit screwdriver didn't allow me to get enough torque on it. It was TIGHT. Greg |
#14
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
Rick Onanian wrote in message . ..
On 5 Mar 2004 00:50:42 -0800, (Carl Fogel) wrote: Some nominal 5mm nuts on computers, for example, actually had several variants over the years, and some wouldn't fit inexpensive 5mm nutdrivers, which weren't big enough. Are the nuts in question those that are actually bolts with threaded holes in the head, as used for motherboard risers and serial port securers? When I worked in retail PC service, I found that they existed in two sizes, one metric (5mm) and one standard (3/16"). I always used cheap nut drivers -- in fact, a 1/4" square drive socket on a 1/4" hex drive - square adapter (which then usually went into my craftsman 3.6v cordless driver, perfect for computers, and of course my boss liked it so much he outfitted the store with a few of them). Most of nuts worked fine in both sockets, but I don't remember ever seeing a nut too big for either of the sockets in question. Maybe my inexpensive sockets were very tolerant. Hey, I just realized one thing we could have done to help prevent the users from screwing out the serial/parallel/vga/etc ports, which they often did by over-tightening the cables attached to them (regardless of verbal or written instructions)...Loctite! Doh! Dear Rick, Also known as turret screws. Along with case screws, they show surprising variety in nominal size, as well as interior and exterior threading. You'll meet more sizes as you get into specialty parts. People who make the only machine of its kind tend to cobble it together with odd screws. Unbelievably, electronics parts can include most of the sizes the table below. Some of the range is due to imbecile design ("Don't you carry a 13/64ths?"), and the rest of it is due to badly machined parts ("The sides slope inward? The head is a little irregular? Is that a problem?"). thousandths nominal size of an inch size increase (rounded) (more accurate) 0.156 5/32" 0 0.157 4.0mm 0.0012 0.172 11/64" 0.0144 0.177 4.5mm 0.0053 0.188 3/16" 0.0103 "small" 0.197 5.0mm 0.0094 0.203 13/64" 0.0063 0.217 5.5mm 0.0134 0.219 7/32" 0.0022 0.234 15/64" 0.0156 0.236 6.0mm 0.0018 0.250 1/4" 0.0138 "large" 0.256 6.5mm 0.0059 0.266 17/64" 0.0097 0.276 7.0mm 0.0100 0.281 9/32" 0.0057 0.295 7.5mm 0.0140 0.297 19/64" 0.0016 Notice that the mix of U.S. sizes (look for ignition wrenches) and small metric sizes has no gaps of even a fiftieth of an inch. Supposedly, only 1/4 and 3/16 are common, but over the years oddball manufacturers must have gotten deals on either weird sizes or else badly machined stuff. Usually, a 4.5mm, a 3/16, a good 5mm (cheap ones are often too tight), a 7/32, and a 1/4 will disassemble what I run across, but I've met strange stuff in the way of medical computer equipment that had me reaching for other sizes until one fit well enough to work. Larger sizes like the 5/16 are rarely much trouble. Remember, the computer industry is so idiotic that it offers us two common case and drive mounting screw types, usually called fine and coarse. On a bad day, the fine-thread screws are just small enough to go by mistake into the holes machined for coarse threads--and then refuse to come out. The force of your screwdriver turning them is enough to push them right back in. Carve a slot in the end of an old L-shaped i/o slot cover plate, wiggle it under the hard-to-get-at fine-thread screw that someone mistakenly pushed into a coarse-thread hole, and pull up gently while turning the screw with a screwdriver. As for preventing the turret screw from backing out when unscrewing the screw that goes into it, my two solutions a a) When tightening originally, run the screw in gently back and forth a few times and then finally back it out half a turn. It's only holding a cable housing in place, so doesn't need to be torqued down. b) Keep a pair of miniature curved needlenose pliers handy to grab the turret screw if it starts to come out. Carl Fogel |
#15
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
Rick Onanian wrote in message . ..
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 23:23:04 GMT, "G.T." wrote: Rick Onanian wrote: Are the nuts in question those that are actually bolts with threaded holes in the head, as used for motherboard risers and serial port securers? When I worked in retail PC service, I found that they So you're one of those overkill guys? I just got done spraining my wrist trying to get a screw off so I could remove a SCSI card from someone's computer today. No, the screws that hold cards in need not be particularly tight. It's the nut/screws in the back of serial/parallel/vga ports, to which a cable is secured to prevent it from falling off the port, which need extra tightness; users tend to screw those cables in excessively, and when they unscrew the cable, it pulls the nut/screws right out of the port rather than unscrewing the cable from those nut/screws. Then, if the port is on a cable (rather than soldered directly to a board), it proceeds to fall into the depths of the computer; this is because that nut/screw also holds the port to the plate on which it is mounted. It sounds like you have quite a delicate wrist, however; the screw that holds a card in (or any other screw in a computer) isn't strong enough to require much force before it breaks. Dear Rick, Remember Paul Mace's law for working on computers: back off if the heels of your shoes start to come off the ground. Of course, this rule of moderation doesn't apply to encouraging badly designed sheet-metal and plastic cases to come apart. After you've reassured yourself that you really have removed all the screws and that the case really should come apart in a particular direction, it may be both necessary and enjoyable to give the goddamn thing a few slaps in the chops. Carl Fogel |
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
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#17
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
Rick Onanian wrote:
On 5 Mar 2004 21:59:58 -0800, (Carl Fogel) wrote: Also known as turret screws. Hah! All these years and I never knew they had a name. Every nut, bolt and screw I touch could be called turrets -- because when I strip 'em I let out an uninterrupted string of curses and cusses! Bill "syndrome" S. |
#18
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
"S o r n i" wrote in message ... Rick Onanian wrote: On 5 Mar 2004 21:59:58 -0800, (Carl Fogel) wrote: Also known as turret screws. Hah! All these years and I never knew they had a name. Every nut, bolt and screw I touch could be called turrets -- because when I strip 'em I let out an uninterrupted string of curses and cusses! Bill "syndrome" S. Duuuuuuuude. Greg |
#19
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Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?
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