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#1
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
Hey guys, figured I'd ask people who know more than me about this before actually doing something (and besides I'm a few thousand kms from my 36 with this rim on anyhow..). I heard from Sam W (redwelly) that drilling the inside of his nightrider rim out only saved about 50 odd grams (compared to airfoils which dropped much more - thinner inner wall metal on the nightriders apparently). Since riding his wheel with shaven tire, 29'er tube, ss spokes and drilled rim, I really want a similar setup. The weight savings is ridiculous - and when I get a schlumpf for it - mm! He was saying that the metal is much thinner on the inner wall, which makes me wonder - how dangerous/unwise would it be to drill out the outer wall of the rim a la 19" trials gear that's going around right now? I'm a road weenie as is, so strength isn't a super huge deal to me unless the wheel is flopping every which way and running into my brakes, so if it would hold up to road riding I'd be all for it. My question is, what would happen? It would really suck if building the wheel back up caused the rim to die in weird ways, but it also seems like the weight savings would be worth it, especially if it was on the order of 100+ grams at the extremity of the wheel. And besides, I might try it anyways and risk having to buy a second rim to mess up, who knows? -- flyer ------------------------------------------------------------------------ flyer's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/9894 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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#2
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
Hey Dave I was thinking the same thing but don't have the rim to drill out yet. I think it would be safe as long as you keep it for road use. When I have disposable income again I plan to build up a super light geared 36er for pure road riding. If there are vertical walls between the inner and outer walls you would want to make sure that you keep those intact and the rim should be fine. -- saskatchewanian 'St John Bosco Wilderness Camp' (http://www.johnboscocamp.com) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ saskatchewanian's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14180 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#3
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
flyer wrote: Since riding his wheel with shaven tire, 29'er tube, ss spokes and drilled rim, I really want a similar setup. And when you tried it, it even had a 36" tube in (after my 29er blew out before the marathon). It should have been lighter than that! Sadly the shaven tyre thing means it doesn't last very long - I think the compound is a bit softer than the TA, and mine is showing threads at several places (not just turning spots aligned with the cranks either), after cutting it down to about 1mm of groove depth and then riding it about 1600km. Now it's going to be kept as my racing/record breaking tyre and I'll go back to another one for everyday use. On my rim I drilled three 1/2 inch (yes, randomly imperial drill bits) holes between each spoke, and enlarged the spoke access holes to the same 1/2 inch size. I also did 4.5mm holes in each 'corner' of the big holes - running in two rows around the sides of the inner surface. That was a lot more work for a lot less benefit than the big holes, but looks quite cool. The whole thing took three hours with a pillar drill (in a physics workshop at my university), and I finished with a Nightrider Pro weighing 1069g. Yeah, I'm tempted to drill the outside (visible) surface as well and see what happens. When I get home from work I'll find photos of what I have done so far to the inside of my rim. Sam -- redwelly ------------------------------------------------------------------------ redwelly's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4518 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#4
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
drill the sidewalls! -- brendan ------------------------------------------------------------------------ brendan's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/13680 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#5
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
that would really make braking an experience. Glad to hear others have been thinking of the same thing though.. -- flyer ------------------------------------------------------------------------ flyer's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/9894 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#6
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
I was planning to do it. But remember that it is the rim that has most to say when building a strong wheel. A heavier rim means a stiffer wheel in most cases. I was spoking up the new nightrider rim but I thougt the rim was to soft for me. I do mostly Coker Muni. Havent tried the nightrider rim, but when building the wheel I realy can feel the airfoil is a lot stiffer. That bacause of a deeper cross section rim is a lot stiffer than a ordinary cross section rim. But I guess a drilled rim works if you mainly spin on the flat. -- unijuul www.unijuul.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------ unijuul's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/13774 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#7
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
Here are some photos I took while drilling my Nightrider. The outside edge of the small holes was just starting to cut into a vertical part inside the profile of the rim extrusion, so I think that's about as wide as you can go with drilling holes across the surface. I'd definitely recommend using a pillar drill for this as you need the height control to not go too far and get the second surface by accident. I didn't weigh my actual rim beforehand, but going by the stated weight of 1116g, and my measured 'after' weight of 1069, I saved 47g. (Ironically I threw away 20g of that by building it up with brass nipples - it'll be blingbling gold alloys next time) Sam +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ |Filename: drilling-3.jpg | |Download: http://www.unicyclist.com/attachment/28135 | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ -- redwelly ------------------------------------------------------------------------ redwelly's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4518 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#8
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
Dave, be brave and do it for all of us poor people. -- scotthue ------------------------------------------------------------------------ scotthue's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14601 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#9
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
scotthue wrote: EDIT: Sam: Did you have to use special rim tape after you drilled the rim? Nope. Maybe I should have, but I just used 'normal' hockey tape. Apprently it is lighter than other rim tapes, but it is also absorbant so gets heavier if it's wet! The pattern of holes is narrow enough to allow decent enough coverage with one loop of tape - again, saving weight. I guessed that each circumference of tape is about 20g, so you don't want to do two unless you really need to. I've taken the tyre off several times now, and the tape is getting quite peeled back in places, but I've had no problems with it so far. All the holes have a chamfered edge so they aren't sharp. Sam -- redwelly ------------------------------------------------------------------------ redwelly's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4518 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#10
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
Do you think the rim would be too weak with gears (single or double wall drilled) or is it not an issue? -- scotthue ------------------------------------------------------------------------ scotthue's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14601 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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