Brake caliper adapter

I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike. I found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought them sight
unseen. After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things have changed
a little. I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind. These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. Is there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get something
else?

On Apr 13, 7:13*pm, "Paul M. Cook" wrote:
I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike. *I found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought them sight
unseen. *After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things have changed
a little. *I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind. * These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. *Is there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get something
else?

Use the front brake in the rear with a dome nut and the rear brake in
front fastened with a nut inside the fork steerer.

On Apr 13, 7:13 pm, "Paul M. Cook" wrote:
I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike. I found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought them sight
unseen. After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things have changed
a little. I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind. These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. Is there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get something
else?

landotter wrote:
Use the front brake in the rear with a dome nut and the rear brake in
front fastened with a nut inside the fork steerer.

I'll have to disagree with my terrestrial clam eating friend. I've
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just slowly
increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long run, IMO.
--
Paul M. Hobson
..:change the f to ph to reply:.

"Paul M. Hobson" wrote in message
...
On Apr 13, 7:13 pm, "Paul M. Cook" wrote:
I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike. I
found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought
them sight
unseen. After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things have
changed
a little. I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long
pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind.
These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a
threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. Is
there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get
something
else?

landotter wrote:
Use the front brake in the rear with a dome nut and the rear brake in
front fastened with a nut inside the fork steerer.

I'll have to disagree with my terrestrial clam eating friend. I've
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just
slowly increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long
run, IMO.
--
Paul M. Hobson
.:change the f to ph to reply:.

How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the part
I've never been able to figure out.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

"Paul M. Hobson" wrote in message
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just
slowly increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long
run, IMO.

Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the part
I've never been able to figure out.

I just drill from the outside in. I honestly don't know if that causes
any problems. I think I've used my rear brake twice in the past three
years (casual stops while I removed a glove with my mouth or something).
--
Paul M. Hobson
..:change the f to ph to reply:.

"Paul M. Hobson" wrote in message
...
"Paul M. Hobson" wrote in message
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just slowly
increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long run,
IMO.

Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the part
I've never been able to figure out.

I just drill from the outside in. I honestly don't know if that causes any
problems. I think I've used my rear brake twice in the past three years
(casual stops while I removed a glove with my mouth or something).


Ahh OK. The solution is so simple. I have a progressive step cutter which
would be ideal I think. I simply had not considered modifying the mount.
Does the 6 thread rule still prevail for thread to nut depth?

I have an old 1983 Sun Tour hub with 3/4 inch rims. Would the Veloces fit
this hub? I seem to have read that the Veloce cassettes only fit Campy
hubs. I plan to respoke as my spokes (should have gone stainless in 1983)
are corroded. I could replace the hubs but it they are in fine shape.
Trying to keep this in budget.

Paul

On Mon, 13 Apr 2009 23:11:56 -0700, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

"Paul M. Hobson" wrote in message
...
On Apr 13, 7:13 pm, "Paul M. Cook" wrote:
I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike. I
found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought them
sight
unseen. After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things have
changed
a little. I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long
pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind. These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a
threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. Is
there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get
something
else?

landotter wrote:
Use the front brake in the rear with a dome nut and the rear brake in
front fastened with a nut inside the fork steerer.

I'll have to disagree with my terrestrial clam eating friend. I've
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just slowly
increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long run,
IMO.
--
Paul M. Hobson
.:change the f to ph to reply:.

How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the part
I've never been able to figure out.


If your problem is figuring out the depth to drill, then use drill bit
collars.

http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/142562.jpg

On Apr 13, 10:21*pm, "Paul M. Hobson" wrote:
On Apr 13, 7:13 pm, "Paul M. Cook" wrote:
I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike. *I found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought them sight
unseen. *After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things have changed
a little. *I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind. * These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. *Is there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get something
else?
landotter wrote:
Use the front brake in the rear with a dome nut and the rear brake in
front fastened with a nut inside the fork steerer.

I'll have to disagree with my terrestrial clam eating friend. I've
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just slowly
increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long run, IMO.

I've done stainless dome nuts and drilled, just a matter of
aesthetics. More tricky is when you have a rear bridge without a flat,
as those curvy washers are hard to find unless you've got a ****it
bucket of old brake parts.

How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the
part
I've never been able to figure out.


If your problem is figuring out the depth to drill, then use drill bit
collars.

http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/142562.jpg

No, I'm talking about how you access the backside with a drill, since
there's so little clearance. Probably some special right-angle drill?

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


"Stephen Bauman" wrote in message
t...
On Mon, 13 Apr 2009 23:11:56 -0700, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

"Paul M. Hobson" wrote in message
...
On Apr 13, 7:13 pm, "Paul M. Cook" wrote:
I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike.
I
found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought
them
sight
unseen. After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things
have
changed
a little. I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long
pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind.
These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a
threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. Is
there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get
something
else?

landotter wrote:
Use the front brake in the rear with a dome nut and the rear brake
in
front fastened with a nut inside the fork steerer.

I'll have to disagree with my terrestrial clam eating friend. I've
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just
slowly
increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long run,
IMO.
--
Paul M. Hobson
.:change the f to ph to reply:.

How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the
part
I've never been able to figure out.


If your problem is figuring out the depth to drill, then use drill bit
collars.

http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/142562.jpg

On Apr 14, 2:10*pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
wrote:
How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the
part
I've never been able to figure out.

If your problem is figuring out the depth to drill, then use drill bit
collars.

http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/142562.jpg

No, I'm talking about how you access the backside with a drill, since
there's so little clearance. Probably some special right-angle drill?

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycleswww.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

"Stephen Bauman" wrote in message

t...



On Mon, 13 Apr 2009 23:11:56 -0700, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:

"Paul M. Hobson" wrote in message
...
On Apr 13, 7:13 pm, "Paul M. Cook" wrote:
I am rebuilding my old Trek 412 circa 1983 12 speed touring bike.
I
found a
great deal on some Campy Veloces double piviot brakes and bought
them
sight
unseen. *After 26 years of being out of the scene I see things
have
changed
a little. *I have single lever brakes on the bike now with a long
pivot bolt
that passes through the fork bracket and is bolted from behind.
These
Campys have a different design altogether with a short bolt and a
threaded
long nut that appears to fit into a recessed seat in the fork. *Is
there a
way of adapting them to the frame or do I just sell them and get
something
else?

landotter wrote:
Use the front brake in the rear with a dome nut and the rear brake
in
front fastened with a nut inside the fork steerer.

I'll have to disagree with my terrestrial clam eating friend. I've
drilled out many a fork and brake bridge. Pretty quick job. Just
slowly
increased in bit size incrementally. I'll be easier in the long run,
IMO.
--
Paul M. Hobson
.:change the f to ph to reply:.

How are you drilling the backside of the brake bridge? That's the
part
I've never been able to figure out.

If your problem is figuring out the depth to drill, then use drill bit
collars.

http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/142562.jpg- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Mike.

I've drilled out the backside of the rear brake bridge by using drill
bits held by a small pair of vicegrips (tm). I start with a bit very
close to the size of the existing hole and gradualy work up to the
size of the but I am using. With the rear wheel removed you get quite
a bit of arc for the vicegrips (tm). Surprisingly it does not take
very long - only a few minutes.

If you have a long drill bit the angle is not that great and you can
drill the hole.

Cheers from Peter