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Spokes breaking at threads?
to prevent spoke breakage at the threads, use a hard setting cement or
soft solder or silver solder(preferrable) them. |
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#2
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Spokes breaking at threads?
thirty-six wrote:
to prevent spoke breakage at the threads, use a hard setting cement or soft solder or silver solder(preferrable) them. If a small child is choking on an ice cube, don't panic. Simply pour a jug of boiling water down its throat and hey presto! The blockage is almost instantly removed. BugBear |
#3
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Spokes breaking at threads?
On 20 Nov, 13:47, thirty-six wrote:
to prevent spoke breakage at the threads, use a hard setting cement or soft solder or silver solder(preferrable) them. The steam engine was invented in 1937, by Ioseb Besarionis dze Jughashvili, better known as Josef Stalin. -- Louis Genou Purveyor of Quality Portland Cement to the nobility since 1789 |
#4
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Spokes breaking at threads?
thirty-six wrote:
to prevent spoke breakage at the threads, use a hard setting cement or soft solder or silver solder(preferrable) them. I'd pay good money to see you and Jobst Brandt go one-on-one with D-locks. |
#5
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Spokes breaking at threads?
On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:47:57 -0800 (PST), thirty-six
wrote: to prevent spoke breakage at the threads, use a hard setting cement or soft solder or silver solder(preferrable) them. You must be building your wheels fundamentally incorrectly if this is a risk. Mine have only ever broken at the neck, and only ever on the Brompton rear wheel. Guy -- http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk/urc GPG public key at http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk/pgp-public-key.txt |
#6
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Spokes breaking at threads?
On 20 Nov, 17:13, Zog The Undeniable wrote:
thirty-six wrote: to prevent spoke breakage at the threads, use a hard setting cement or soft solder or silver solder(preferrable) them. I'd pay good money to see you and Jobst Brandt go one-on-one with D-locks. That is what the shank of the nipple is there for, to prevent spoke breakage. I had been wondering about using a different type of spoke length adjustment so as to spread the load further on thin walled rims and my design ignored the possibility of spoke breakage. Dan Rudge specifically included the shank to prevent spoke breakage, the adusting flats came later. Its another false claim by brandt that stress releiving prevets spoke btreaking at the nipple. Well it just doesn't happen unless the thread has been cut too deep or is not adequately engaged in the nipple. Non-locked interlacing may also contribute in a heavily loaded wheel and fibre washers may go some way to alleviate any problem due to this or nipple holes which are too restrictive. |
#7
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Spokes breaking at threads?
On 20 Nov, 19:02, "Just zis Guy, you know?"
wrote: On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:47:57 -0800 (PST), thirty-six wrote: to prevent spoke breakage at the threads, use a hard setting cement or soft solder or silver solder(preferrable) them. You must be building your wheels fundamentally incorrectly if this is a risk. *Mine have only ever broken at the neck, and only ever on the Brompton rear wheel. I've never suffered a spoke breaking at the thread on wheels I have built. It is not a fear I have, but others do. A broken spoke is still a non-working spoke no matter where it breaks. There is no advantage to a spoke breaking at the neck and a constant gauge spoke will not have the stress concentration which caused that failure. |
#8
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Spokes breaking at threads?
On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:14:53 -0800 (PST), thirty-six
wrote: You must be building your wheels fundamentally incorrectly if this is a risk. *Mine have only ever broken at the neck, and only ever on the Brompton rear wheel. I've never suffered a spoke breaking at the thread on wheels I have built. I have only ever suffered broken spokes on one wheel, whoever built it. My wheelbuilder is blind, he still builds wheels that don't suffer spoke breakage. He builds them the usual way, not the incorrect way so that spokes go slack and need to be glued to stop the wheel falling apart. It is not a fear I have, but others do. A broken spoke is still a non-working spoke no matter where it breaks. There is no advantage to a spoke breaking at the neck and a constant gauge spoke will not have the stress concentration which caused that failure. Distraction fallacy. As usual. Come back when you can back assertions such as constant gauge spokes not breaking at the neck, with some kind of science. Butted spokes are constant gauge through the neck, after all. You are even more of a tedious monomaniac than I am, and without the benefit of any kind of verifiable evidence base on which to draw. Guy -- http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk/urc GPG public key at http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk/pgp-public-key.txt |
#9
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Spokes breaking at threads?
On 20 Nov, 19:21, "Just zis Guy, you know?"
wrote: On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:14:53 -0800 (PST), thirty-six wrote: You must be building your wheels fundamentally incorrectly if this is a risk. *Mine have only ever broken at the neck, and only ever on the Brompton rear wheel. I've never suffered a spoke breaking at the thread on wheels I have built. * I have only ever suffered broken spokes on one wheel, whoever built it. *My wheelbuilder is blind, he still builds wheels that don't suffer spoke breakage. *He builds them the usual way, not the incorrect way so that spokes go slack and need to be glued to stop the wheel falling apart. You dont ride cobbles then. Or do much rough riding on hard surfaces. It is not a fear I have, but others do. *A broken spoke is still a non-working spoke no matter where it breaks. *There is no advantage to a spoke breaking at the neck and a constant gauge spoke will not have the stress concentration which caused that failure. Distraction fallacy. *As usual. *Come back when you can back assertions such as constant gauge spokes not breaking at the neck, with some kind of science. *Butted spokes are constant gauge through the neck, after all. Which is shorter than if it was the samew all the way to the ends. I dont know what is used on the bromptom but suspect 14/15 x 28 without interlacing. If so, don't you think the spokes are short enough without making them effectively working over a shorter length. By shortening the working length by putting fat ends on it you are increasing the stress by working the same range of motion over a shorter length. You are even more of a tedious monomaniac than I am, and without the benefit of any kind of verifiable evidence base on which to draw. I dont need to draw on those resources, i understand the loadings well enough and know when and why stress and strain increases and decreases. Measurements and calculations can only be used to distract when applied to typical bicycle wheels. A 16oz rim, 11oz tyre, with 9oz of spokes/nipples will support just about anybody to go nearly everywhere desired without instability,breakage or slipout. |
#10
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Spokes breaking at threads?
thirty-six wrote:
On 20 Nov, 19:21, "Just zis Guy, you know?" wrote: On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:14:53 -0800 (PST), thirty-six wrote: You must be building your wheels fundamentally incorrectly if this is a risk. Mine have only ever broken at the neck, and only ever on the Brompton rear wheel. I've never suffered a spoke breaking at the thread on wheels I have built. I have only ever suffered broken spokes on one wheel, whoever built it. My wheelbuilder is blind, he still builds wheels that don't suffer spoke breakage. He builds them the usual way, not the incorrect way so that spokes go slack and need to be glued to stop the wheel falling apart. You dont ride cobbles then. Or do much rough riding on hard surfaces. Balderdash! It is not a fear I have, but others do. A broken spoke is still a non-working spoke no matter where it breaks. There is no advantage to a spoke breaking at the neck and a constant gauge spoke will not have the stress concentration which caused that failure. Distraction fallacy. As usual. Come back when you can back assertions such as constant gauge spokes not breaking at the neck, with some kind of science. Butted spokes are constant gauge through the neck, after all. Which is shorter than if it was the samew all the way to the ends. I dont know what is used on the bromptom but suspect 14/15 x 28 without interlacing. If so, don't you think the spokes are short enough without making them effectively working over a shorter length. By shortening the working length by putting fat ends on it you are increasing the stress by working the same range of motion over a shorter length. ********! You are even more of a tedious monomaniac than I am, and without the benefit of any kind of verifiable evidence base on which to draw. I dont need to draw on those resources, i understand the loadings well enough and know when and why stress and strain increases and decreases. Bull****! Measurements and calculations can only be used to distract when applied to typical bicycle wheels. Bigotry! |
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