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QD wheel spindles.



 
 
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  #31  
Old November 24th 14, 11:13 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default QD wheel spindles.

On Monday, November 24, 2014 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20 Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are cheap. Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure :-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont fit the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.


If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping the
cones adjusted properly.


Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle, allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right for
the cones I'm checking out.


You have a habit of getting pretty nasty to some who are trying to help you..

If a cone or nut "spins" down a thread then it's likely a loose fit. If the fit's loose adjustments don't stay. You can have a nut thread onto something where there's a bit of movement of the nut on the threads. That's called a Class B fit and it's something that you'd want to avoid.

Good luck. I'm not trying to help any further.

Cheers
Ads
  #32  
Old November 25th 14, 02:06 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John D. Slocomb
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 27
Default QD wheel spindles.

On Mon, 24 Nov 2014 18:42:58 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20 Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels, the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are cheap. Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure :-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont fit the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.


If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping the
cones adjusted properly.


Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle, allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right for
the cones I'm checking out.


In reality, a cone fitting the bearings is a matter of ball size and
size of the race. If, for example, both wheels have 1/8" balls and ten
balls per side, than the cones are interchangeable as far as the
bearings are concerned.
--
cheers,

John D.Slocomb
  #33  
Old November 25th 14, 08:48 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default QD wheel spindles.



"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Monday, November 24, 2014 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20
Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels,
the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles
over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and
thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back
wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the
blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels
together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are cheap.
Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that
bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure
:-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent
money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont fit
the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.

If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping the
cones adjusted properly.


Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle,
allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right for
the cones I'm checking out.


You have a habit of getting pretty nasty to some who are trying to help
you.

If a cone or nut "spins" down a thread then it's likely a loose fit. If
the fit's loose adjustments don't stay. You can have a nut thread onto
something where there's a bit of movement of the nut on the threads.
That's called a Class B fit and it's something that you'd want to avoid.


I'm a lot more polite to people who give helpful information that isn't just
plain wrong.

As I've explained twice now; the fact that the regular axle cone can spin
down the QR axle, allows me to test that cone for fit to the bearing.

The whole object of the exercise is to fit the axle that correctly fits
*THAT* cone.

If you can't be bothered reading and understanding what I said - please also
not be bothered replying.

  #34  
Old November 25th 14, 08:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default QD wheel spindles.



"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 24 Nov 2014 18:42:58 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20 Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels,
the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and
thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back
wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the
blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels
together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are cheap.
Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that
bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure :-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont fit
the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.

If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping the
cones adjusted properly.


Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle,
allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right for
the cones I'm checking out.


In reality, a cone fitting the bearings is a matter of ball size and
size of the race. If, for example, both wheels have 1/8" balls and ten
balls per side, than the cones are interchangeable as far as the
bearings are concerned.


The QR hub has the right number of same size ball bearings, the loose fit
allowed me to spin the regular cone down the QR axle - the cone seems to fit
the hub OK.

At one point, I got the 2 cones mixed up - the only way I could tell them
apart; is the QR cone won't go on the regular axle.

Its all put back together with a regular spindle, the only "to do" is find a
locknut which I lost while pinching the axle from a scrap wheel.

No doubt doing the same trick on the back wheel will be a whole new
adventure!

  #35  
Old November 26th 14, 03:52 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default QD wheel spindles.

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 2:48:24 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Monday, November 24, 2014 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20
Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles..

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels,
the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles
over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and
thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back
wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the
blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go wrong..

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels
together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are cheap.
Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that
bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure
:-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent
money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont fit
the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.

If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping the
cones adjusted properly.

Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle,
allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right for
the cones I'm checking out.


You have a habit of getting pretty nasty to some who are trying to help
you.

If a cone or nut "spins" down a thread then it's likely a loose fit. If
the fit's loose adjustments don't stay. You can have a nut thread onto
something where there's a bit of movement of the nut on the threads.
That's called a Class B fit and it's something that you'd want to avoid..


I'm a lot more polite to people who give helpful information that isn't just
plain wrong.

As I've explained twice now; the fact that the regular axle cone can spin
down the QR axle, allows me to test that cone for fit to the bearing.

The whole object of the exercise is to fit the axle that correctly fits
*THAT* cone.

If you can't be bothered reading and understanding what I said - please also
not be bothered replying.


Let's try one last time.

If the part "SPINS" on and has any play then it's a Class B fit and you'll have trouble keeping things adjusted properly. You said "SPIN" and I've seen a lot of instances where a nut was spu onto a threaded part but where there was slight play in the nut because it wasn't a Class A fit. All I was trying to do was warn you about that potential problem so that after a number of kms/miles of riding you wouldn't have bearine wear or adjustment issues. Ditto for the cone surface. Even Andrew Muzi mentioned that some cones are not compatible.

Cheers
  #36  
Old November 26th 14, 12:16 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B. Slocomb
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 805
Default QD wheel spindles.

On Tue, 25 Nov 2014 18:52:02 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 2:48:24 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Monday, November 24, 2014 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20
Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both wheels,
the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles
over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and
thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back
wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the
blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels
together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are cheap.
Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that
bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure
:-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent
money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont fit
the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.

If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping the
cones adjusted properly.

Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle,
allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right for
the cones I'm checking out.

You have a habit of getting pretty nasty to some who are trying to help
you.

If a cone or nut "spins" down a thread then it's likely a loose fit. If
the fit's loose adjustments don't stay. You can have a nut thread onto
something where there's a bit of movement of the nut on the threads.
That's called a Class B fit and it's something that you'd want to avoid.


I'm a lot more polite to people who give helpful information that isn't just
plain wrong.

As I've explained twice now; the fact that the regular axle cone can spin
down the QR axle, allows me to test that cone for fit to the bearing.

The whole object of the exercise is to fit the axle that correctly fits
*THAT* cone.

If you can't be bothered reading and understanding what I said - please also
not be bothered replying.


Let's try one last time.

If the part "SPINS" on and has any play then it's a Class B fit and you'll have trouble keeping things adjusted properly. You said "SPIN" and I've seen a lot of instances where a nut was spu onto a threaded part but where there was slight play in the nut because it wasn't a Class A fit. All I was trying to do was warn you about that potential problem so that after a number of kms/miles of riding you wouldn't have bearine wear or adjustment issues. Ditto for the cone surface. Even Andrew Muzi mentioned that some cones are not compatible.

Cheers


Are you sure about that fit? For the U.S. "Unified" series I was
almost sure that the fits are 1A, 2A and 3A for external threads and
1B, 2B and 3B for internal threads. These are all for non-interference
threads.
--
cheers,

John B.Slocomb
  #37  
Old November 26th 14, 02:33 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default QD wheel spindles.

John B.Slocomb

from here the ball cone geometry you suggest

isnlt possible

geometries between OEM cone shape and race shape are exact

using a different cone shape immediately forces the ball run, which is grossly larger in real terms than the cone/race shape ID, out of functional orbits.

???

  #38  
Old November 26th 14, 07:29 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default QD wheel spindles.



"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 2:48:24 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Monday, November 24, 2014 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20
Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD
spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both
wheels,
the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles
over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and
thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back
wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any
apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the
blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go
wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels
together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are
cheap.
Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that
did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that
bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure
:-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent
money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR
ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont
fit
the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down
the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.

If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping
the
cones adjusted properly.

Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle,
allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right
for
the cones I'm checking out.

You have a habit of getting pretty nasty to some who are trying to help
you.

If a cone or nut "spins" down a thread then it's likely a loose fit. If
the fit's loose adjustments don't stay. You can have a nut thread onto
something where there's a bit of movement of the nut on the threads.
That's called a Class B fit and it's something that you'd want to
avoid.


I'm a lot more polite to people who give helpful information that isn't
just
plain wrong.

As I've explained twice now; the fact that the regular axle cone can spin
down the QR axle, allows me to test that cone for fit to the bearing.

The whole object of the exercise is to fit the axle that correctly fits
*THAT* cone.

If you can't be bothered reading and understanding what I said - please
also
not be bothered replying.


Let's try one last time.

If the part "SPINS" on and has any play then it's a Class B fit and you'll
have trouble keeping things adjusted properly.


Lets try explaining this slowly, like I'm talking to a totally brain dead
****wit;

The QR axle that I want to get rid of is a loose fit inside the regular axle
cone.

Its not a working fit, but allows me to run the cone down the thread to see
how it matches with the bearing.

The bearing has the right number of the right size balls, and the temporary
fit of the cone showed it fit the bearing just right.

So I took out and discarded the loose fit QR axle and fitted the regular
axle that the cones belongs on.

I suppose I should give you credit for memorising a few impressive technical
terms - but you really do come across as pretty clueless!!!

  #39  
Old November 27th 14, 12:44 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default QD wheel spindles.

On Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:29:19 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 2:48:24 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Monday, November 24, 2014 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu, 20
Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD
spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both
wheels,
the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the spindles
over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up, and
thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the back
wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any
apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so the
blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go
wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels
together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are
cheap.
Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that
did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked "that
bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not sure
:-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have spent
money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the QR
ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone wont
fit
the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down
the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.

If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping
the
cones adjusted properly.

Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR axle,
allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's right
for
the cones I'm checking out.

You have a habit of getting pretty nasty to some who are trying to help
you.

If a cone or nut "spins" down a thread then it's likely a loose fit. If
the fit's loose adjustments don't stay. You can have a nut thread onto
something where there's a bit of movement of the nut on the threads.
That's called a Class B fit and it's something that you'd want to
avoid.

I'm a lot more polite to people who give helpful information that isn't
just
plain wrong.

As I've explained twice now; the fact that the regular axle cone can spin
down the QR axle, allows me to test that cone for fit to the bearing.

The whole object of the exercise is to fit the axle that correctly fits
*THAT* cone.

If you can't be bothered reading and understanding what I said - please
also
not be bothered replying.


Let's try one last time.

If the part "SPINS" on and has any play then it's a Class B fit and you'll
have trouble keeping things adjusted properly.


Lets try explaining this slowly, like I'm talking to a totally brain dead
****wit;

The QR axle that I want to get rid of is a loose fit inside the regular axle
cone.

Its not a working fit, but allows me to run the cone down the thread to see
how it matches with the bearing.

The bearing has the right number of the right size balls, and the temporary
fit of the cone showed it fit the bearing just right.

So I took out and discarded the loose fit QR axle and fitted the regular
axle that the cones belongs on.

I suppose I should give you credit for memorising a few impressive technical
terms - but you really do come across as pretty clueless!!!


You're absolutely right Ian. You come here asking for help then insult those who try to point out possible problems you could have. Doesn't matter to you if the person has over 40 years experience fixing bicycles.

I'll NEVER be offering further help to you.

Cheers
  #40  
Old November 27th 14, 07:01 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
ian field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,008
Default QD wheel spindles.



"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:29:19 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, November 25, 2014 2:48:24 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Monday, November 24, 2014 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"Sir Ridesalot" wrote in message
...
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 1:01:14 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
"John D. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 18:06:45 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"Phil W Lee" wrote in message
. ..
"Ian Field" considered Thu,
20
Nov
2014 20:05:04 -0000 the perfect time to write:

Just scrounged a pair of MTB wheels - but they have QD
spindles.

My locking up chain isn't long enough to go through both
wheels,
the
frame
and whatever I'm chaining it to.

Is there any technical reason why I couldn't swap the
spindles
over
from
a
pair of old damaged wheels?

Thanks.

Why not just drop the front wheel out when you lock it up,
and
thread
it on the locking up chain where it will fit, next to the
back
wheel?

I've seen plenty of bikes locked up that way, without any
apparent
problems.

Too lazy - also involves unhooking the front brake cable so
the
blocks
clear
the tyre.

I get grease on my hands often enough fixing things that go
wrong.

Get another locking cable/chain and lock the frame and wheels
together
and then the whole package to the lamp post. Cable locks are
cheap.
Or
a length of chain and another padlock.

Or spray paint the bike with various colors. I had a mate that
did
that figuring that no one would steal anything that looked
"that
bad",
and nobody did but whether that validates his theory I'm not
sure
:-)

The bike was scrounged on Freecycle a few years ago, I have
spent
money
on
it - but generally as little as I can get away with.

From time to time I get comments while locking it outside the
supermarket;
"the chains worth more than the bike isn't it?".

As yet, I have other spare wheels - so I can put off using the
QR
ones
untill there's no other choice.

A regular wheelnut is a loose fit on the QR axle - a QR cone
wont
fit
the
regular axle.

Since a regular cone will go on the QR axle, I can spin one down
the
thread
and see whether it fits with the bearing.

If the fit 8is "loose" you're very likely to have trouble keeping
the
cones adjusted properly.

Do try to pay attention!!!!!

The fact that a regular cone can be run down the thread of a QR
axle,
allows
me to check its fit to the bearing.

The whole point of the exercise is to fit a regular axle that's
right
for
the cones I'm checking out.

You have a habit of getting pretty nasty to some who are trying to
help
you.

If a cone or nut "spins" down a thread then it's likely a loose fit.
If
the fit's loose adjustments don't stay. You can have a nut thread
onto
something where there's a bit of movement of the nut on the threads.
That's called a Class B fit and it's something that you'd want to
avoid.

I'm a lot more polite to people who give helpful information that
isn't
just
plain wrong.

As I've explained twice now; the fact that the regular axle cone can
spin
down the QR axle, allows me to test that cone for fit to the bearing.

The whole object of the exercise is to fit the axle that correctly
fits
*THAT* cone.

If you can't be bothered reading and understanding what I said -
please
also
not be bothered replying.

Let's try one last time.

If the part "SPINS" on and has any play then it's a Class B fit and
you'll
have trouble keeping things adjusted properly.


Lets try explaining this slowly, like I'm talking to a totally brain dead
****wit;

The QR axle that I want to get rid of is a loose fit inside the regular
axle
cone.

Its not a working fit, but allows me to run the cone down the thread to
see
how it matches with the bearing.

The bearing has the right number of the right size balls, and the
temporary
fit of the cone showed it fit the bearing just right.

So I took out and discarded the loose fit QR axle and fitted the regular
axle that the cones belongs on.

I suppose I should give you credit for memorising a few impressive
technical
terms - but you really do come across as pretty clueless!!!


You're absolutely right Ian. You come here asking for help then insult
those who try to point out possible problems you could have. Doesn't
matter to you if the person has over 40 years experience fixing bicycles.


Being lectured by someone who cant be arsed reading what I said, who comes
back with completely irrelevant and frequently just plain wrong answers does
tend to put my back up a bit!

 




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