Gunnar bike for touring

Gooserider wrote:
"landotter" wrote in message
oups.com...

Jack Murphy wrote:
I have a Gunnar sport that I overload for long weekend tours. Am
beginning
to plan for a full touring bike. I see from Gunnar that they will
customize
one of their frames to give it more of a full on touring geometry for not
much more than stock, and several hundred less than the Waterford.

Anyone know about these bikes? I'd like to get a steel frame touring
bike,
and don't want to spend a fortune.

Gunnar and Waterford are one in the same. Gunnars are usually a bit
simpler without lugs and with powdercoat. It's still a damn fine frame.

Best deal for frame alone is a Surly LHT. But the best value overall
for a steel touring bike, is either a Fuji Touring, or even a Windsor
Touring for $600 via mail order. The latter's made on the same line as
the Fuji, AFAIK, you just need to go through it and replace the bits
you don't like as if it were a kit. I've heard a couple owners of the
Windsors had trouble with the spokes braking in the rear, but if you
have your local shop (or yourself) detress and hand tune it, you should
be fine.

I have a Gunnar Sport, and it's a great bike. It's not a full-on touring
bike, and I don't think that the extra cost for custom geometry to get
Gunnar to make one is worth it. If I was in the market for a touring bike, I
would go with the Surly LHT.

Hey, I was looking at a few pics of a Gunnar Sport, as I've only seen
the mtb frames close up, and it does look like they'd do just fine for
light touring with moderate rear bags and a goodly sized handlebar bag.
Do you think its beefy enough to handle 35# or so in the rear and maybe
a tenner in a bar bag? Or is the tubeset going to get all wiggly with
such weight? It's a really refreshing update on the formerly ubiquitous
"sport-touring" bikes we had in the 80s, that's for sure. I'd love one
in my stable. The OP might be just fine on one, if the load is kept
light.

"landotter" wrote:

On the other hand, if you know how to size yourself and can tweak a
bike, the Windsor is an incredible value. But, and this is a serious
but, don't expect bikesdirect to jump through hoops if something is
wrong.

Understood.

Maybe I should buy a used Windsor off eBay to keep
price down even more?

What I'm wanting to do is buy very cheap almost
disposable gear..... tweak my riding style next spring,
learn what I need and don't need..... THAN go bike the
heavy duty stuff for a Trans-am tour.

"Ozark Bicycle"
wrote:

Agreed, if you are a skilled home mechanic, the bikes from Bikes Direct
are a killer deal. They are still a decent value if you pay to have a
competent mechanic set them up.

I can set it up fine..... I was into biking big abt 15
years ago.

I just haven't ridden since then and my big obstacle
will be getting back in shape.

I intend to get back in shape by commuting to work by
bike abt 10 miles a day.

I also intend to use the ultra-light method of
touring.... hopefully

"Gooserider" wrote:

If I was in the market for a touring bike, I
would go with the Surly LHT.

what abt co-motion americano?

"landotter" wrote in message
oups.com...

Gooserider wrote:
"landotter" wrote in message
oups.com...

Jack Murphy wrote:
I have a Gunnar sport that I overload for long weekend tours. Am
beginning
to plan for a full touring bike. I see from Gunnar that they will
customize
one of their frames to give it more of a full on touring geometry for
not
much more than stock, and several hundred less than the Waterford.

Anyone know about these bikes? I'd like to get a steel frame touring
bike,
and don't want to spend a fortune.

Gunnar and Waterford are one in the same. Gunnars are usually a bit
simpler without lugs and with powdercoat. It's still a damn fine frame.

Best deal for frame alone is a Surly LHT. But the best value overall
for a steel touring bike, is either a Fuji Touring, or even a Windsor
Touring for $600 via mail order. The latter's made on the same line as
the Fuji, AFAIK, you just need to go through it and replace the bits
you don't like as if it were a kit. I've heard a couple owners of the
Windsors had trouble with the spokes braking in the rear, but if you
have your local shop (or yourself) detress and hand tune it, you should
be fine.

I have a Gunnar Sport, and it's a great bike. It's not a full-on touring
bike, and I don't think that the extra cost for custom geometry to get
Gunnar to make one is worth it. If I was in the market for a touring
bike, I
would go with the Surly LHT.

Hey, I was looking at a few pics of a Gunnar Sport, as I've only seen
the mtb frames close up, and it does look like they'd do just fine for
light touring with moderate rear bags and a goodly sized handlebar bag.
Do you think its beefy enough to handle 35# or so in the rear and maybe
a tenner in a bar bag? Or is the tubeset going to get all wiggly with
such weight?

Gunnar recommends no heavier a load than 20 pounds on the Sport. I don't
think the tubeset is going to get wiggly, because it's True Temper OS
Platinum(oversized). I think it's more a function of frame geometry. If you
could get your load weight down, sure you could tour on it. I still think
the Surly LHT is a better idea, especially since Surly is bringing out a
complete LHT bike this spring for less than a grand.

It's a really refreshing update on the formerly ubiquitous
"sport-touring" bikes we had in the 80s, that's for sure. I'd love one
in my stable. The OP might be just fine on one, if the load is kept
light.


It's a lot of fun to ride, and is my daily commuter. I put 150 miles a week
on it commuting, and it's very comfortable. I've ridden it 80 miles in a day
with little discomfort. It's not designed to be a full on tourer. I don't
think it's rated to handle a front rack, and there aren't lowrider mounts on
the fork.

wrote in message
...
"Gooserider" wrote:

If I was in the market for a touring bike, I
would go with the Surly LHT.

what abt co-motion americano?

Since the Surly can be built for about a thousand dollars or so, and the
Co-Motion is listed on their website as $3150, the Surly wins.

wrote:
"Ozark Bicycle"
wrote:

Here what I turned up in a simple google search:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

would you feel confident taking this level of bike on a
thousand mile tour with camp equipment?

If it's properly set-up and geared, yes, without reservation.

So the components and quality of that bike is adequate
or ore than adequate as far as your concerned?

Its not "junk" by any means huh?

Not at all. The hubs and rims are house branded, though. They're likely
fine stuff, but you never know. If I got it, I'd check the hubs first
thing and adjust if needed. Same goes for the rims, destress the spokes
and retune. They're likely rebranded Alex, which are plenty strong if
tensioned right.

wrote:
"Ozark Bicycle"
wrote:

Here what I turned up in a simple google search:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

would you feel confident taking this level of bike on a
thousand mile tour with camp equipment?

If it's properly set-up and geared, yes, without reservation.

So the components and quality of that bike is adequate
or ore than adequate as far as your concerned?

Its not "junk" by any means huh?

No, not junk. It does require some prep and set up, though. You can't
just open the box, put some parts in place and ride a 1000 mile tour
(at least not without alot of grief, IMO).

wrote:
"Ozark Bicycle"
wrote:

Agreed, if you are a skilled home mechanic, the bikes from Bikes Direct
are a killer deal. They are still a decent value if you pay to have a
competent mechanic set them up.

I can set it up fine..... I was into biking big abt 15
years ago.


Here's some what should be done before setting off on a 1000 mile tour:

1) the wheels should be un-tensioned, re-tensioned, properly centered
("dished"), stress relieved and trued with uniform spoke tension.

2) the hubs should be opened up, cleaned out, re-greased with a good
marine grease and properly adjusted.

3) ditto for the headset

4) the cable housings should be trimmed to the proper length and the
ends properly finished; the cables properly trimmed and capped

5) the headset, brakes and derailleurs properly adjusted

6) for loaded touring, you will want a lower gear. At a minimum, swap
out the 30T inner ring for a 26T

http://www.parktool.com/

is a good place to learn some skills and procedures. Click on "repair
help".

I'm sure I'm forgetting something important.... :-(


I just haven't ridden since then and my big obstacle
will be getting back in shape.

I intend to get back in shape by commuting to work by
bike abt 10 miles a day.

I also intend to use the ultra-light method of
touring.... hopefully

From the OP:
I'll look into the Surly and the Windsor. I need to get a solid reliable
touring bike for not too much money, since I really want to extend my
touring in the next year or two. I do long weekend tours, want to begin
doing 2 week tours and some day cross country.

Here's proof that the Gunnar Sport can carry full touring gear, if a bit
wobbly at high speeds:

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/pics/...437_2.jpg?v=38

This has old Blackburn low rider mounts on the front fork, maybe 45 lbs full
of gear including tent, cookstove, water pump etc.

I've taken it into the Ozarks, where damn right the 30/25 gearing wasn't
adequate!
http://members.cox.net/jmurphyjr/Ozark2004/index.htm

Here in Kansas the hills aren't so long (there are some but you have to go
look for them) so not such a problem with gearing.
http://members.cox.net/jmurphyjr/But...ty05/index.htm
or http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/p..._id=28210&v=2p (same
story)

But still I have to watch the wobble at speed, its not the bike to ride no
handed when fully loaded... And I know I don't want to keep loading this
bike down so heavy, its asking for trouble.

Last spring I was rolling back into town after a long weekend tour of about
250 miles, flying the last couple of miles with a 30mph tailwind, trying to
beat the storm and listening to Carmina Burana. I had noticed a bit more
wobble than usual but didn't suspect anything. Got home and noticed the rear
wheel was a bit out of true, look closer and see the rims (Mavic Open Pro,
10k miles on them) cracked, spokes ready to pop out! Yikes. So yah,
something a bit heavier duty would do well. I can't seem to tour without
hitting gravel or dirt for 3-10 miles somewhere, its always a cool road to
take but I wonder if I'll make it on this Sport.

I commute on this bike, fenders racks and lights this time of year. But
presto-chango in spring and summer I put on narrower tires and strip off the
fred stuff, and I hang right in there with the fast guys on club rides.
Touring is excellent fitness prep for other riding, if you work it hard
enough. That bikes feels so light and responsive without all that gear on
it! I love this bike, but know its time to get a bit more of a clydesdale
for touring.

Thanks for the tips.

Jack Murphy