Adjusting brakes

On 7/23/2020 9:40 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 14:50:50 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
rOn Thu, 23 Jul 2020 05:25:31 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:51:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/22/2020 5:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 07:48:54 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 10:03 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 20:51:35 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 8:41 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 00:55:27 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 23:51:19 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 15:13:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 8:59:59 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 6:37:22 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2020 1:44 PM, AK wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 7:59:12 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/18/2020 2:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike
down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy


First off, does your rim run straight without dents ? Any
bearing slop?
Secondly are there kinks or other impedimanta to your cable?

Do your brake pads meet the rim squarely and fully or are
they askew?

Is everything original? Mismatch of standard lever with
long pull linear brake would give that symptom.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Yes to all your questions.

https://imgur.com/a/e61C1L5

https://imgur.com/a/nXBEr1Q


I don't see anything unusual.

Are the cables and brake pivots free moving and lubricated,
tat is, does the brake snap open when you release the lever?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I just found a broken spoke on my rear wheel.

I think my bike is plain wore out.

I need a better bike, but everyone is out except those bikes costing $800+.

Does anyone have any mountain bikes in stock?

Andy

I pick up my rim tomorrow which had one spoke replaced and it was trued.

$11

And a Park Tool truing stand is only $299.95 :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



I built mine out of leftover plywood and angle aluminum.

Errr... I was replying to a guy who had problems adjusting a Vee brake
and you are asking him to build a truing stand?

Horses for courses, as the British say.

--
Cheers,

John B.



No worse than you recommending a $300 trying stand to a guy who?s not
willing to spend $800 on an entire bike :-)

Ah but I wasn't recommending, I was comparing the $11 he paid to fix
and true his wheel to the $300 (actually $299.95) he might pay for a
stand to do it himself.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Truing a wheel in the bike is no less accurate, the result
no better and no worse than using a truing stand.

Building a series of wheels all day long under a good light
in a nice clean truing stand and surrounding workstation is
greatly more efficient and comfortable, but that was not the
OP's problem.


If I remember he broke a spoke and the wheel went out of true.
Whereupon he took it to a shop that charged him $11 to replace the
spoke and true the wheel. Which, if I recall, took a couple of days.

Compared to locating a spoke that would fit, cobbling up some sort of
gizmo to use for a truing stand, getting a spoke wrench that fits,
finding the spring loaded clothespin to use with the fork if that is
used as the truing stand and all the to and froing it would take for a
guy who had a problems adjusting a brake to get the wheel trued I
suggest that the $11 is not only the cheapest but the best solution.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I agree he found a suitable resolution.

but 'clothespin' ??

I'm not usually big on organic, natural and recyclable but
for this purpose I prefer my left thumb.

Use the spring loaded clothespin clipped to one side of the fork as an
indicator of run out.
see https://flatbike.com/truing-a-bike-wheel/
third photo down for photo of a commercial device with the finger
pointing at the gizmos that the clothespin substitutes for :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.


meh.
I already own a left thumb and it's literally 'at hand'.

But... with the clothespin one can use both hands to spin the wheel...
Wheeeeee

:-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



If you?ve used the cone wrenches properly, you shouldn?t need two hands to
spin the wheel.


PS: I prefer using a Sharpie to mark the ?high? spots, then I don?t have to
remember where they are. A quick wipe of solvent on the brake track and
you?re ready for the next pass.

But usually there are both low and high spots and it is usually better
to attempt correct both problems as you go otherwise it is quite easy
to have a wheel no run out but not centered in the fork. Particularly
the rear wheel where the spokes on one side are at a different angle
than those on the other side.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I use the Sharpie on both sides of the rim to catch the outliers in each
direction. If itÂ’s a wheel that needs more work, I also have a dial
indicator that mounts on my truing stand. Give the wheel a spin and the
moving pointer gives a good indication of what the average location is, as
well as the size and shape of the major wobbles.

A proper dial indicator? Calibrated in 1/1000 inch?

I had thought of that and even cobbled up a magnetic base to hold an
indicator against the wheel but decided that it was over kill :-) I
later made a small "lever" indicator - just a spring loaded lever sort
of thing with a long arm and a short arm - but in the end just used
the indicator arms built into the stand.
--
Cheers,

John B.

Yes, a proper dial indicator. I’m not sure if it’s calibrated, but I’m sure
it’s good enough to true a bike wheel. I had it lying around for years, and
when I built the stand, I noticed that the mounting arm had the same thread
as some surplus IKEA table leg mounts, so I screwed those to the stand so I
can move the indicator around. I hacked together a plastic “shoe�that fits
on the end of the dial indicator shaft, so that I’m measuring the
deflection over a small area instead of just at one point, and the whole
thing works quite well. It makes no difference in real life, but it’s nice
to be able to say to yourself “That wheel is true to +/- 0.010�.

And I say, if you have a dial indicator lying around, it doesn't sound
unreasonable to use it.

Actually, I have two. One of them has a resolution of "tenths" = that
is, 1/10,000 inch. I suppose it might be unreasonable to use that one.

Except on a high performance bike, of course. ;-)


--
- Frank Krygowski

On 7/23/2020 7:19 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 14:50:50 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
rOn Thu, 23 Jul 2020 05:25:31 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:51:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/22/2020 5:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 07:48:54 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 10:03 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 20:51:35 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 8:41 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 00:55:27 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 23:51:19 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 15:13:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 8:59:59 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 6:37:22 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2020 1:44 PM, AK wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 7:59:12 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/18/2020 2:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike
down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy


First off, does your rim run straight without dents ? Any
bearing slop?
Secondly are there kinks or other impedimanta to your cable?

Do your brake pads meet the rim squarely and fully or are
they askew?

Is everything original? Mismatch of standard lever with
long pull linear brake would give that symptom.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Yes to all your questions.

https://imgur.com/a/e61C1L5

https://imgur.com/a/nXBEr1Q


I don't see anything unusual.

Are the cables and brake pivots free moving and lubricated,
tat is, does the brake snap open when you release the lever?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I just found a broken spoke on my rear wheel.

I think my bike is plain wore out.

I need a better bike, but everyone is out except those bikes costing $800+.

Does anyone have any mountain bikes in stock?

Andy

I pick up my rim tomorrow which had one spoke replaced and it was trued.

$11

And a Park Tool truing stand is only $299.95 :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



I built mine out of leftover plywood and angle aluminum.

Errr... I was replying to a guy who had problems adjusting a Vee brake
and you are asking him to build a truing stand?

Horses for courses, as the British say.

--
Cheers,

John B.



No worse than you recommending a $300 trying stand to a guy who?s not
willing to spend $800 on an entire bike :-)

Ah but I wasn't recommending, I was comparing the $11 he paid to fix
and true his wheel to the $300 (actually $299.95) he might pay for a
stand to do it himself.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Truing a wheel in the bike is no less accurate, the result
no better and no worse than using a truing stand.

Building a series of wheels all day long under a good light
in a nice clean truing stand and surrounding workstation is
greatly more efficient and comfortable, but that was not the
OP's problem.


If I remember he broke a spoke and the wheel went out of true.
Whereupon he took it to a shop that charged him $11 to replace the
spoke and true the wheel. Which, if I recall, took a couple of days.

Compared to locating a spoke that would fit, cobbling up some sort of
gizmo to use for a truing stand, getting a spoke wrench that fits,
finding the spring loaded clothespin to use with the fork if that is
used as the truing stand and all the to and froing it would take for a
guy who had a problems adjusting a brake to get the wheel trued I
suggest that the $11 is not only the cheapest but the best solution.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I agree he found a suitable resolution.

but 'clothespin' ??

I'm not usually big on organic, natural and recyclable but
for this purpose I prefer my left thumb.

Use the spring loaded clothespin clipped to one side of the fork as an
indicator of run out.
see https://flatbike.com/truing-a-bike-wheel/
third photo down for photo of a commercial device with the finger
pointing at the gizmos that the clothespin substitutes for :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.


meh.
I already own a left thumb and it's literally 'at hand'.

But... with the clothespin one can use both hands to spin the wheel...
Wheeeeee

:-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



If you?ve used the cone wrenches properly, you shouldn?t need two hands to
spin the wheel.


PS: I prefer using a Sharpie to mark the ?high? spots, then I don?t have to
remember where they are. A quick wipe of solvent on the brake track and
you?re ready for the next pass.

But usually there are both low and high spots and it is usually better
to attempt correct both problems as you go otherwise it is quite easy
to have a wheel no run out but not centered in the fork. Particularly
the rear wheel where the spokes on one side are at a different angle
than those on the other side.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I use the Sharpie on both sides of the rim to catch the outliers in each
direction. If it’s a wheel that needs more work, I also have a dial
indicator that mounts on my truing stand. Give the wheel a spin and the
moving pointer gives a good indication of what the average location is, as
well as the size and shape of the major wobbles.

A proper dial indicator? Calibrated in 1/1000 inch?

I had thought of that and even cobbled up a magnetic base to hold an
indicator against the wheel but decided that it was over kill :-) I
later made a small "lever" indicator - just a spring loaded lever sort
of thing with a long arm and a short arm - but in the end just used
the indicator arms built into the stand.
--
Cheers,

John B.


That was an actual product, and popular at one time with
factory wheel production, the Var Preciray:

http://www.veloclassique.com/

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 21:51:55 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 7/23/2020 9:40 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 14:50:50 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
rOn Thu, 23 Jul 2020 05:25:31 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:51:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/22/2020 5:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 07:48:54 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 10:03 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 20:51:35 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 8:41 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 00:55:27 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 23:51:19 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 15:13:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 8:59:59 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 6:37:22 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2020 1:44 PM, AK wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 7:59:12 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/18/2020 2:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike
down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy


First off, does your rim run straight without dents ? Any
bearing slop?
Secondly are there kinks or other impedimanta to your cable?

Do your brake pads meet the rim squarely and fully or are
they askew?

Is everything original? Mismatch of standard lever with
long pull linear brake would give that symptom.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Yes to all your questions.

https://imgur.com/a/e61C1L5

https://imgur.com/a/nXBEr1Q


I don't see anything unusual.

Are the cables and brake pivots free moving and lubricated,
tat is, does the brake snap open when you release the lever?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I just found a broken spoke on my rear wheel.

I think my bike is plain wore out.

I need a better bike, but everyone is out except those bikes costing $800+.

Does anyone have any mountain bikes in stock?

Andy

I pick up my rim tomorrow which had one spoke replaced and it was trued.

$11

And a Park Tool truing stand is only $299.95 :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



I built mine out of leftover plywood and angle aluminum.

Errr... I was replying to a guy who had problems adjusting a Vee brake
and you are asking him to build a truing stand?

Horses for courses, as the British say.

--
Cheers,

John B.



No worse than you recommending a $300 trying stand to a guy who?s not
willing to spend $800 on an entire bike :-)

Ah but I wasn't recommending, I was comparing the $11 he paid to fix
and true his wheel to the $300 (actually $299.95) he might pay for a
stand to do it himself.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Truing a wheel in the bike is no less accurate, the result
no better and no worse than using a truing stand.

Building a series of wheels all day long under a good light
in a nice clean truing stand and surrounding workstation is
greatly more efficient and comfortable, but that was not the
OP's problem.


If I remember he broke a spoke and the wheel went out of true.
Whereupon he took it to a shop that charged him $11 to replace the
spoke and true the wheel. Which, if I recall, took a couple of days.

Compared to locating a spoke that would fit, cobbling up some sort of
gizmo to use for a truing stand, getting a spoke wrench that fits,
finding the spring loaded clothespin to use with the fork if that is
used as the truing stand and all the to and froing it would take for a
guy who had a problems adjusting a brake to get the wheel trued I
suggest that the $11 is not only the cheapest but the best solution.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I agree he found a suitable resolution.

but 'clothespin' ??

I'm not usually big on organic, natural and recyclable but
for this purpose I prefer my left thumb.

Use the spring loaded clothespin clipped to one side of the fork as an
indicator of run out.
see https://flatbike.com/truing-a-bike-wheel/
third photo down for photo of a commercial device with the finger
pointing at the gizmos that the clothespin substitutes for :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.


meh.
I already own a left thumb and it's literally 'at hand'.

But... with the clothespin one can use both hands to spin the wheel...
Wheeeeee

:-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



If you?ve used the cone wrenches properly, you shouldn?t need two hands to
spin the wheel.


PS: I prefer using a Sharpie to mark the ?high? spots, then I don?t have to
remember where they are. A quick wipe of solvent on the brake track and
you?re ready for the next pass.

But usually there are both low and high spots and it is usually better
to attempt correct both problems as you go otherwise it is quite easy
to have a wheel no run out but not centered in the fork. Particularly
the rear wheel where the spokes on one side are at a different angle
than those on the other side.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I use the Sharpie on both sides of the rim to catch the outliers in each
direction. If it?s a wheel that needs more work, I also have a dial
indicator that mounts on my truing stand. Give the wheel a spin and the
moving pointer gives a good indication of what the average location is, as
well as the size and shape of the major wobbles.

A proper dial indicator? Calibrated in 1/1000 inch?

I had thought of that and even cobbled up a magnetic base to hold an
indicator against the wheel but decided that it was over kill :-) I
later made a small "lever" indicator - just a spring loaded lever sort
of thing with a long arm and a short arm - but in the end just used
the indicator arms built into the stand.
--
Cheers,

John B.

Yes, a proper dial indicator. I’m not sure if it’s calibrated, but I’m sure
it’s good enough to true a bike wheel. I had it lying around for years, and
when I built the stand, I noticed that the mounting arm had the same thread
as some surplus IKEA table leg mounts, so I screwed those to the stand so I
can move the indicator around. I hacked together a plastic “shoe”that fits
on the end of the dial indicator shaft, so that I’m measuring the
deflection over a small area instead of just at one point, and the whole
thing works quite well. It makes no difference in real life, but it’s nice
to be able to say to yourself “That wheel is true to +/- 0.010”.

And I say, if you have a dial indicator lying around, it doesn't sound
unreasonable to use it.

Actually, I have two. One of them has a resolution of "tenths" = that
is, 1/10,000 inch. I suppose it might be unreasonable to use that one.

Except on a high performance bike, of course. ;-)

When I was assigned to the F-111B test program at Edwards Air Force
Base I was doing some work in the base machine shop and borrowed a
dial indicator from the "Experimental Shop" to center some work. Got
everything set up and spun the chuck by hand the needle on the gauge
went around about four times WHAT The F---!

Then I looked at the gauge a bit closer and noticed it read 0.0001"

The Experimental Shop, by the way, did fine enough work that all
tools, stock and everything they worked on was kept in the temperature
controlled shop for at least 24 hours before they would start on it.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 21:01:57 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/23/2020 7:19 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 14:50:50 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
rOn Thu, 23 Jul 2020 05:25:31 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:51:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/22/2020 5:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 07:48:54 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 10:03 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 20:51:35 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 8:41 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 00:55:27 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 23:51:19 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 15:13:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 8:59:59 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 6:37:22 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2020 1:44 PM, AK wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 7:59:12 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/18/2020 2:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike
down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy


First off, does your rim run straight without dents ? Any
bearing slop?
Secondly are there kinks or other impedimanta to your cable?

Do your brake pads meet the rim squarely and fully or are
they askew?

Is everything original? Mismatch of standard lever with
long pull linear brake would give that symptom.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Yes to all your questions.

https://imgur.com/a/e61C1L5

https://imgur.com/a/nXBEr1Q


I don't see anything unusual.

Are the cables and brake pivots free moving and lubricated,
tat is, does the brake snap open when you release the lever?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I just found a broken spoke on my rear wheel.

I think my bike is plain wore out.

I need a better bike, but everyone is out except those bikes costing $800+.

Does anyone have any mountain bikes in stock?

Andy

I pick up my rim tomorrow which had one spoke replaced and it was trued.

$11

And a Park Tool truing stand is only $299.95 :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



I built mine out of leftover plywood and angle aluminum.

Errr... I was replying to a guy who had problems adjusting a Vee brake
and you are asking him to build a truing stand?

Horses for courses, as the British say.

--
Cheers,

John B.



No worse than you recommending a $300 trying stand to a guy who?s not
willing to spend $800 on an entire bike :-)

Ah but I wasn't recommending, I was comparing the $11 he paid to fix
and true his wheel to the $300 (actually $299.95) he might pay for a
stand to do it himself.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Truing a wheel in the bike is no less accurate, the result
no better and no worse than using a truing stand.

Building a series of wheels all day long under a good light
in a nice clean truing stand and surrounding workstation is
greatly more efficient and comfortable, but that was not the
OP's problem.


If I remember he broke a spoke and the wheel went out of true.
Whereupon he took it to a shop that charged him $11 to replace the
spoke and true the wheel. Which, if I recall, took a couple of days.

Compared to locating a spoke that would fit, cobbling up some sort of
gizmo to use for a truing stand, getting a spoke wrench that fits,
finding the spring loaded clothespin to use with the fork if that is
used as the truing stand and all the to and froing it would take for a
guy who had a problems adjusting a brake to get the wheel trued I
suggest that the $11 is not only the cheapest but the best solution.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I agree he found a suitable resolution.

but 'clothespin' ??

I'm not usually big on organic, natural and recyclable but
for this purpose I prefer my left thumb.

Use the spring loaded clothespin clipped to one side of the fork as an
indicator of run out.
see https://flatbike.com/truing-a-bike-wheel/
third photo down for photo of a commercial device with the finger
pointing at the gizmos that the clothespin substitutes for :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.


meh.
I already own a left thumb and it's literally 'at hand'.

But... with the clothespin one can use both hands to spin the wheel...
Wheeeeee

:-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



If you?ve used the cone wrenches properly, you shouldn?t need two hands to
spin the wheel.


PS: I prefer using a Sharpie to mark the ?high? spots, then I don?t have to
remember where they are. A quick wipe of solvent on the brake track and
you?re ready for the next pass.

But usually there are both low and high spots and it is usually better
to attempt correct both problems as you go otherwise it is quite easy
to have a wheel no run out but not centered in the fork. Particularly
the rear wheel where the spokes on one side are at a different angle
than those on the other side.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I use the Sharpie on both sides of the rim to catch the outliers in each
direction. If it’s a wheel that needs more work, I also have a dial
indicator that mounts on my truing stand. Give the wheel a spin and the
moving pointer gives a good indication of what the average location is, as
well as the size and shape of the major wobbles.

A proper dial indicator? Calibrated in 1/1000 inch?

I had thought of that and even cobbled up a magnetic base to hold an
indicator against the wheel but decided that it was over kill :-) I
later made a small "lever" indicator - just a spring loaded lever sort
of thing with a long arm and a short arm - but in the end just used
the indicator arms built into the stand.
--
Cheers,

John B.


That was an actual product, and popular at one time with
factory wheel production, the Var Preciray:

http://www.veloclassique.com/


Cute. The one I made was just a piece of flat stock with a pivoted
lever with a short and long leg and a rubber band as a spring.
Somewhat like
https://tinyurl.com/y5rjmbws

--
Cheers,

John B.

On 7/23/2020 10:25 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 21:51:55 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 7/23/2020 9:40 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 14:50:50 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
rOn Thu, 23 Jul 2020 05:25:31 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:51:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/22/2020 5:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 07:48:54 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 10:03 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 20:51:35 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 8:41 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 00:55:27 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 23:51:19 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 15:13:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 8:59:59 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 6:37:22 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2020 1:44 PM, AK wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 7:59:12 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/18/2020 2:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike
down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy


First off, does your rim run straight without dents ? Any
bearing slop?
Secondly are there kinks or other impedimanta to your cable?

Do your brake pads meet the rim squarely and fully or are
they askew?

Is everything original? Mismatch of standard lever with
long pull linear brake would give that symptom.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Yes to all your questions.

https://imgur.com/a/e61C1L5

https://imgur.com/a/nXBEr1Q


I don't see anything unusual.

Are the cables and brake pivots free moving and lubricated,
tat is, does the brake snap open when you release the lever?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I just found a broken spoke on my rear wheel.

I think my bike is plain wore out.

I need a better bike, but everyone is out except those bikes costing $800+.

Does anyone have any mountain bikes in stock?

Andy

I pick up my rim tomorrow which had one spoke replaced and it was trued.

$11

And a Park Tool truing stand is only $299.95 :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



I built mine out of leftover plywood and angle aluminum.

Errr... I was replying to a guy who had problems adjusting a Vee brake
and you are asking him to build a truing stand?

Horses for courses, as the British say.

--
Cheers,

John B.



No worse than you recommending a $300 trying stand to a guy who?s not
willing to spend $800 on an entire bike :-)

Ah but I wasn't recommending, I was comparing the $11 he paid to fix
and true his wheel to the $300 (actually $299.95) he might pay for a
stand to do it himself.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Truing a wheel in the bike is no less accurate, the result
no better and no worse than using a truing stand.

Building a series of wheels all day long under a good light
in a nice clean truing stand and surrounding workstation is
greatly more efficient and comfortable, but that was not the
OP's problem.


If I remember he broke a spoke and the wheel went out of true.
Whereupon he took it to a shop that charged him $11 to replace the
spoke and true the wheel. Which, if I recall, took a couple of days.

Compared to locating a spoke that would fit, cobbling up some sort of
gizmo to use for a truing stand, getting a spoke wrench that fits,
finding the spring loaded clothespin to use with the fork if that is
used as the truing stand and all the to and froing it would take for a
guy who had a problems adjusting a brake to get the wheel trued I
suggest that the $11 is not only the cheapest but the best solution.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I agree he found a suitable resolution.

but 'clothespin' ??

I'm not usually big on organic, natural and recyclable but
for this purpose I prefer my left thumb.

Use the spring loaded clothespin clipped to one side of the fork as an
indicator of run out.
see https://flatbike.com/truing-a-bike-wheel/
third photo down for photo of a commercial device with the finger
pointing at the gizmos that the clothespin substitutes for :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.


meh.
I already own a left thumb and it's literally 'at hand'.

But... with the clothespin one can use both hands to spin the wheel...
Wheeeeee

:-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



If you?ve used the cone wrenches properly, you shouldn?t need two hands to
spin the wheel.


PS: I prefer using a Sharpie to mark the ?high? spots, then I don?t have to
remember where they are. A quick wipe of solvent on the brake track and
you?re ready for the next pass.

But usually there are both low and high spots and it is usually better
to attempt correct both problems as you go otherwise it is quite easy
to have a wheel no run out but not centered in the fork. Particularly
the rear wheel where the spokes on one side are at a different angle
than those on the other side.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I use the Sharpie on both sides of the rim to catch the outliers in each
direction. If it?s a wheel that needs more work, I also have a dial
indicator that mounts on my truing stand. Give the wheel a spin and the
moving pointer gives a good indication of what the average location is, as
well as the size and shape of the major wobbles.

A proper dial indicator? Calibrated in 1/1000 inch?

I had thought of that and even cobbled up a magnetic base to hold an
indicator against the wheel but decided that it was over kill :-) I
later made a small "lever" indicator - just a spring loaded lever sort
of thing with a long arm and a short arm - but in the end just used
the indicator arms built into the stand.
--
Cheers,

John B.

Yes, a proper dial indicator. I’m not sure if it’s calibrated, but I’m sure
it’s good enough to true a bike wheel. I had it lying around for years, and
when I built the stand, I noticed that the mounting arm had the same thread
as some surplus IKEA table leg mounts, so I screwed those to the stand so I
can move the indicator around. I hacked together a plastic “shoe�that fits
on the end of the dial indicator shaft, so that I’m measuring the
deflection over a small area instead of just at one point, and the whole
thing works quite well. It makes no difference in real life, but it’s nice
to be able to say to yourself “That wheel is true to +/- 0.010�.

And I say, if you have a dial indicator lying around, it doesn't sound
unreasonable to use it.

Actually, I have two. One of them has a resolution of "tenths" = that
is, 1/10,000 inch. I suppose it might be unreasonable to use that one.

Except on a high performance bike, of course. ;-)

When I was assigned to the F-111B test program at Edwards Air Force
Base I was doing some work in the base machine shop and borrowed a
dial indicator from the "Experimental Shop" to center some work. Got
everything set up and spun the chuck by hand the needle on the gauge
went around about four times WHAT The F---!

Then I looked at the gauge a bit closer and noticed it read 0.0001"

The Experimental Shop, by the way, did fine enough work that all
tools, stock and everything they worked on was kept in the temperature
controlled shop for at least 24 hours before they would start on it.

Once, with some students, I toured a ball bearing manufacturing plant.
Ball bearings have to be astonishingly precise. A ball that's just 1%
larger than its mates will take all the load as it passes through the
loading path, causing early failure.

Anyway, they took us through a calibration laboratory where technicians
checked various measuring tools against standards. The technicians did a
lot of their work wearing gloves. A student asked about the gloves, so
to demonstrate the reason, our tour guide grabbed the frame of a large
dial comparator with his bare hand. The big needle immediately began
moving due to the expansion of the comparator's frame caused by that
slight temperature change.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:50:24 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 7/23/2020 10:25 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 21:51:55 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 7/23/2020 9:40 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
John B. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2020 14:50:50 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
rOn Thu, 23 Jul 2020 05:25:31 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 19:51:18 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/22/2020 5:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 07:48:54 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 10:03 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 20:51:35 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/21/2020 8:41 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 22 Jul 2020 00:55:27 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 23:51:19 +0000 (UTC), Ralph Barone
wrote:

John B. wrote:
On Tue, 21 Jul 2020 15:13:18 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 8:59:59 AM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 6:37:22 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/19/2020 1:44 PM, AK wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 7:59:12 AM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/18/2020 2:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike
down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy


First off, does your rim run straight without dents ? Any
bearing slop?
Secondly are there kinks or other impedimanta to your cable?

Do your brake pads meet the rim squarely and fully or are
they askew?

Is everything original? Mismatch of standard lever with
long pull linear brake would give that symptom.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Yes to all your questions.

https://imgur.com/a/e61C1L5

https://imgur.com/a/nXBEr1Q


I don't see anything unusual.

Are the cables and brake pivots free moving and lubricated,
tat is, does the brake snap open when you release the lever?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

I just found a broken spoke on my rear wheel.

I think my bike is plain wore out.

I need a better bike, but everyone is out except those bikes costing $800+.

Does anyone have any mountain bikes in stock?

Andy

I pick up my rim tomorrow which had one spoke replaced and it was trued.

$11

And a Park Tool truing stand is only $299.95 :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



I built mine out of leftover plywood and angle aluminum.

Errr... I was replying to a guy who had problems adjusting a Vee brake
and you are asking him to build a truing stand?

Horses for courses, as the British say.

--
Cheers,

John B.



No worse than you recommending a $300 trying stand to a guy who?s not
willing to spend $800 on an entire bike :-)

Ah but I wasn't recommending, I was comparing the $11 he paid to fix
and true his wheel to the $300 (actually $299.95) he might pay for a
stand to do it himself.
--
Cheers,

John B.


Truing a wheel in the bike is no less accurate, the result
no better and no worse than using a truing stand.

Building a series of wheels all day long under a good light
in a nice clean truing stand and surrounding workstation is
greatly more efficient and comfortable, but that was not the
OP's problem.


If I remember he broke a spoke and the wheel went out of true.
Whereupon he took it to a shop that charged him $11 to replace the
spoke and true the wheel. Which, if I recall, took a couple of days.

Compared to locating a spoke that would fit, cobbling up some sort of
gizmo to use for a truing stand, getting a spoke wrench that fits,
finding the spring loaded clothespin to use with the fork if that is
used as the truing stand and all the to and froing it would take for a
guy who had a problems adjusting a brake to get the wheel trued I
suggest that the $11 is not only the cheapest but the best solution.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I agree he found a suitable resolution.

but 'clothespin' ??

I'm not usually big on organic, natural and recyclable but
for this purpose I prefer my left thumb.

Use the spring loaded clothespin clipped to one side of the fork as an
indicator of run out.
see https://flatbike.com/truing-a-bike-wheel/
third photo down for photo of a commercial device with the finger
pointing at the gizmos that the clothespin substitutes for :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.


meh.
I already own a left thumb and it's literally 'at hand'.

But... with the clothespin one can use both hands to spin the wheel...
Wheeeeee

:-)
--
Cheers,

John B.



If you?ve used the cone wrenches properly, you shouldn?t need two hands to
spin the wheel.


PS: I prefer using a Sharpie to mark the ?high? spots, then I don?t have to
remember where they are. A quick wipe of solvent on the brake track and
you?re ready for the next pass.

But usually there are both low and high spots and it is usually better
to attempt correct both problems as you go otherwise it is quite easy
to have a wheel no run out but not centered in the fork. Particularly
the rear wheel where the spokes on one side are at a different angle
than those on the other side.
--
Cheers,

John B.


I use the Sharpie on both sides of the rim to catch the outliers in each
direction. If it?s a wheel that needs more work, I also have a dial
indicator that mounts on my truing stand. Give the wheel a spin and the
moving pointer gives a good indication of what the average location is, as
well as the size and shape of the major wobbles.

A proper dial indicator? Calibrated in 1/1000 inch?

I had thought of that and even cobbled up a magnetic base to hold an
indicator against the wheel but decided that it was over kill :-) I
later made a small "lever" indicator - just a spring loaded lever sort
of thing with a long arm and a short arm - but in the end just used
the indicator arms built into the stand.
--
Cheers,

John B.

Yes, a proper dial indicator. I’m not sure if it’s calibrated, but I’m sure
it’s good enough to true a bike wheel. I had it lying around for years, and
when I built the stand, I noticed that the mounting arm had the same thread
as some surplus IKEA table leg mounts, so I screwed those to the stand so I
can move the indicator around. I hacked together a plastic “shoe”that fits
on the end of the dial indicator shaft, so that I’m measuring the
deflection over a small area instead of just at one point, and the whole
thing works quite well. It makes no difference in real life, but it’s nice
to be able to say to yourself “That wheel is true to +/- 0.010”.

And I say, if you have a dial indicator lying around, it doesn't sound
unreasonable to use it.

Actually, I have two. One of them has a resolution of "tenths" = that
is, 1/10,000 inch. I suppose it might be unreasonable to use that one.

Except on a high performance bike, of course. ;-)

When I was assigned to the F-111B test program at Edwards Air Force
Base I was doing some work in the base machine shop and borrowed a
dial indicator from the "Experimental Shop" to center some work. Got
everything set up and spun the chuck by hand the needle on the gauge
went around about four times WHAT The F---!

Then I looked at the gauge a bit closer and noticed it read 0.0001"

The Experimental Shop, by the way, did fine enough work that all
tools, stock and everything they worked on was kept in the temperature
controlled shop for at least 24 hours before they would start on it.

Once, with some students, I toured a ball bearing manufacturing plant.
Ball bearings have to be astonishingly precise. A ball that's just 1%
larger than its mates will take all the load as it passes through the
loading path, causing early failure.

Anyway, they took us through a calibration laboratory where technicians
checked various measuring tools against standards. The technicians did a
lot of their work wearing gloves. A student asked about the gloves, so
to demonstrate the reason, our tour guide grabbed the frame of a large
dial comparator with his bare hand. The big needle immediately began
moving due to the expansion of the comparator's frame caused by that
slight temperature change.

Way back when I got a sort of guided tour through a plant that made
gear cutting machinery and as part of the "show" the Engineer doing
the presentation opened a cabinet and removes a sort of steel sleeve
with a, about 1 inch rod through the center. He removed the center
"rod" and handed the pieces to the group who examined them - nice
shiny finish, all smooth.

Then the guy hands the pieces to one guy and says "assemble it" and
the damned rod wouldn't go in the hole :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 12:39:52 AM UTC-7, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy

Did you get your brakes to work correctly? After there were all these postings I had the idea that your problem was simply that you had to pull the arms and lube the brake axles.

On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 1:02:12 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 12:39:52 AM UTC-7, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy

Did you get your brakes to work correctly? After there were all these postings I had the idea that your problem was simply that you had to pull the arms and lube the brake axles.

Yes, the rear rim had a broken spoke.

The shop replaced it and trued the wheel.

No more brake problems.

First spoke I have broken in my life.

I had a lot of good luck with the old 3 speed Raleigh bikes.

Andy

On 7/25/2020 7:33 PM, AK wrote:
On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 1:02:12 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 12:39:52 AM UTC-7, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

Thanks,
Andy

Did you get your brakes to work correctly? After there were all these postings I had the idea that your problem was simply that you had to pull the arms and lube the brake axles.

Yes, the rear rim had a broken spoke.

The shop replaced it and trued the wheel.

No more brake problems.

First spoke I have broken in my life.

I had a lot of good luck with the old 3 speed Raleigh bikes.

Andy


Me too! Nice product.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 18/07/2020 08.39, AK wrote:
I am having a very hard time adjusting my rear brakes.

I have a mountain bike. Low end. :-)

If I adjust it to where it grabs the rim tightly, it slows my bike
down due to the resistance from the brake touching the rim.

It's very frustrating.

WD40.