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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
I have the above listed bike, but I don't really use it much. It's a nice
bike with an older 105 gruppo, with brifters. I put a Technomic on it and a B17, but I still ride it very seldom. My Gunnar is set up pretty BoBish, and I find it very comfortable. Fatter tires and fenders made a world of difference to me. The Schwinn has Continental Ultra 3000 700x25 but they are pretty narrow and hard. I was considering converting it to 650B, but it has no eyelets. A Carradice and a Bagman can take the place of a proper rack, but what can I do for fenders? It's either convert this one or sell it to finance a Surly. Exactly which Surly is up in the air right now. The Cross-Check, Long Haul Trucker, and Karate Monkey all meet my needs.They can run big fat tires AND have beaucoup eyelets. What do you guys think, is it worth it to convert the Schwinn? It's a nice 853 frame, just too racer for me. Mike |
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#2
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
In article , gooserider
wrote: I have the above listed bike, but I don't really use it much. It's a nice bike with an older 105 gruppo, with brifters. I put a Technomic on it and a B17, but I still ride it very seldom. My Gunnar is set up pretty BoBish, and I find it very comfortable. Fatter tires and fenders made a world of difference to me. The Schwinn has Continental Ultra 3000 700x25 but they are pretty narrow and hard. I was considering converting it to 650B, but it has no eyelets. A Carradice and a Bagman can take the place of a proper rack, but what can I do for fenders? Faced with a similar situation here's what I did. Using an inexpensive Planet Bike full fender kit, I modified the front fender stainless stays, fashioning the loops (meant for fastening by bolt to the eyelets) into a hook which then was clipped just above the fork dropout - no hardware required for mounting and the setup was quite secure. The mounting hole within the front fender's tab intended for fastening to the fork crown required enlargement with a rat tail file to accommodate the brake caliper's recessed Allen mounting nut. As for the rear fender, a dollar or two worth of all purpose clamps mounted on the seatstays will serve as pseudo eyelets. On the right seatstay, position the clamp so that it doesn't interfere with the chain. If the frame lacks a chainstay bridge (near the bottom bracket), you can either dispense with fastening the fender at this point, and possibly trimming it so that it fits tightly between the chainstays directly aft of the BB shell; or, tie the fender down using a cord (or twist tie) routed through the bracket and underneath the chainstays. This is one of those tasks requiring jiggling, bending, and filing; but, if done properly, works just as well as on a bike with the requisite fittings. Luke |
#3
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
gooserider wrote: I have the above listed bike, but I don't really use it much. It's a nice bike with an older 105 gruppo, with brifters. I put a Technomic on it and a B17, but I still ride it very seldom. My Gunnar is set up pretty BoBish, and I find it very comfortable. Fatter tires and fenders made a world of difference to me. The Schwinn has Continental Ultra 3000 700x25 but they are pretty narrow and hard. I was considering converting it to 650B, but it has no eyelets. A Carradice and a Bagman can take the place of a proper rack, but what can I do for fenders? It's either convert this one or sell it to finance a Surly. Exactly which Surly is up in the air right now. The Cross-Check, Long Haul Trucker, and Karate Monkey all meet my needs.They can run big fat tires AND have beaucoup eyelets. What do you guys think, is it worth it to convert the Schwinn? It's a nice 853 frame, just too racer for me. Mike As was mentioned, you can eventually get fenders working on it fine by going nuts with p-clamps, taking diagonal cutters to the fenders to get it fitting right everywhere, getting it secured crudely with zip ties in various places, etc. You can actually do this without going to 650B by using/making special fender-splitting brackets to get around the brakes (http://www.rivercitybicycles.com/pro...roducts_id=613), but you still wouldn't be able to run larger than a 28 tire probably. I haven't ridden a 650B conversion and don't really know what can be expected as far as how the bike's handling will change. The steering trail on 650B conversions is reduced, which is generally the opposite of what one wants to get out of the deal, and that bugs me although I don't know how big of a deal it is in practice. Long Hauls are really cool frames. If you want a classic do-it-all bike, that's where I would go. Cross-check if you want the racier geometry and Karate Monkey if you want to go mountain biking with it or do something that needs horizontal dropouts or discs. |
#4
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
gooserider wrote:
I have the above listed bike, but I don't really use it much. It's a nice bike with an older 105 gruppo, with brifters. I put a Technomic on it and a B17, but I still ride it very seldom. My Gunnar is set up pretty BoBish, and I find it very comfortable. Fatter tires and fenders made a world of difference to me. The Schwinn has Continental Ultra 3000 700x25 but they are pretty narrow and hard. I was considering converting it to 650B, but it has no eyelets. A Carradice and a Bagman can take the place of a proper rack, but what can I do for fenders? It's either convert this one or sell it to finance a Surly. Exactly which Surly is up in the air right now. The Cross-Check, Long Haul Trucker, and Karate Monkey all meet my needs.They can run big fat tires AND have beaucoup eyelets. What do you guys think, is it worth it to convert the Schwinn? It's a nice 853 frame, just too racer for me. Mike I agree with the others in saying P-clips and such can easily and securely mount a rack and fenders to a bike without eyelets. I used four P-clips to mount a rack onto a bike for brevets. I used P-clips to mount fenders onto my touring bike. It does not have a chainstay bridge so I used #12 electrical wire, hot, between the chainstays where the bridge should be. Works just fine. And it all looks OK too. Now, if you are really just asking for encouragement to get a new bike and build it up. Then do it. Of the Surly bikes you mention, I would only consider the Long Haul Trucker as good if I were building a true loaded touring bike. Otherwise all Surly bikes are fairly pedestrian gas pipe tubing. I'd prefer to start with quite a bit higher level of frame at the price point you are talking about. If cheap is your main driver, then nashbar sells cheap aluminum frames for 1/3 the Surly price. |
#5
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
wrote: Otherwise all Surly bikes are fairly pedestrian gas pipe tubing. I'd prefer to start with quite a bit higher level of frame at the price point you are talking about. If cheap is your main driver, then nashbar sells cheap aluminum frames for 1/3 the Surly price. The Surlys are mostly double butted 4130 double butted cromoly, hardly "gas pipe". I would agree if someone ventured to comment that they're overpriced--a simple powder coated steel frame brazed up in Taiwan shouldn't cost more than $200-250. I'd also consider a Soma Smoothie ES: http://store.somafab.com/somasmoothiees.html Fully butted Reynolds for about $375, and somewhere in the style between an Audax bike and a Touring ride. Accepts 32mm tires with fenders, and uses long reach brakes. |
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
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#7
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
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#8
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
In article .com,
Nate Knutson wrote: Long Hauls are really cool frames. If you want a classic do-it-all bike, that's where I would go. Cross-check if you want the racier geometry and Karate Monkey if you want to go mountain biking with it or do something that needs horizontal dropouts or discs. All versatile frames. Peripheral to the topic, I don't understand why Surly spec'ed the Long Haul with vertical dropouts. Double eyeleted horizontal dropouts, a la the Crosscheck, would've added the option of SS/FG conversion to the LHT's list of attributes without conferring any liabilities or extra cost. Luke |
#9
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
Chalo wrote:
wrote: Of the Surly bikes you mention, I would only consider the Long Haul Trucker as good if I were building a true loaded touring bike. Otherwise all Surly bikes are fairly pedestrian gas pipe tubing. I'd prefer to start with quite a bit higher level of frame at the price point you are talking about. If cheap is your main driver, then nashbar sells cheap aluminum frames for 1/3 the Surly price. Surly bikes are about uncommon but desirable features, not fancy materials. Things like ample fat tire clearance and horizontal dropouts are generally not available on cheaper no-name frames, even if they are equally well-made. But why make it out of poor materials? I looked at the Surly website. The 58 cm c-t Pacer road frame is TIG welded and lists a weight of 4.75 pounds. My Waterford 1200 lugged steel frame, 58 cm c-t, is 4 pounds. Why did Surly use extra, extra heavy gauge pipe for the frame? TIG welded frames should be much lighter than lugged frames due to the weight of the lugs. I figure there is 1 pound of extra steel in the Surly pacer tubing. Why? Is this one of those desirable features you mention? The fork for the Pacer is listed at a bit over 2 pounds. My Reynolds 531 fork is 1.5 pounds. The Pacer fork does have 1.125" steerer compared to 1" on mine. But still that is a lot of extra steel in the Pacer fork. Why use such heavy gauge pipe for a fork? I understand this desirable features thing. But when QBP puts these desirable features on a frame made out of heavy gauge pipe, doesn't that defeat the purpose? QBP is selling the options and accessories on the Surly frames, not a quality frame. And the people who buy them are paying for options and accessories, not a quality frame. Do you buy a car based on the options only? If it has air conditioning and automatic, and moonroof, and V8 engine, its a great car? Never mind its a Pinto or Citation or Gremlin or Pacer. I know these cars did not have many or any of these options. I'd prefer to buy a plainer but high quality frame and forego the options and accessories on a Surly, given the same price point. Ideally I'd get a quality frame with the options too. I was all set to buy a Nashbar steel MTB frame when I heard they made a 23" model. Then I looked over the specs, and found that the 23" frame has a 23" top tube! That's the kind of oblivious design feature that lets me know there will be other issues with it as well. Chalo Colina I have a 58 cm c-t Nashbar aluminum road frame. 57.5 cm top tube. 73.5 head, 72.5 seat. Pretty close to perfect geometry. It carried me successfully through 400 km one day. And shorter rides too. No eyelets, but 4 P-clips mounted a rear rack to the frame easily and securely for brevets. With the bike I own, and have ridden thousands of miles, I do not find any obvious design faults or other issues. |
#10
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99 Schwinn Peloton 650B candidate?
"Luke" wrote in message ... In article .com, Nate Knutson wrote: Long Hauls are really cool frames. If you want a classic do-it-all bike, that's where I would go. Cross-check if you want the racier geometry and Karate Monkey if you want to go mountain biking with it or do something that needs horizontal dropouts or discs. All versatile frames. Peripheral to the topic, I don't understand why Surly spec'ed the Long Haul with vertical dropouts. Double eyeleted horizontal dropouts, a la the Crosscheck, would've added the option of SS/FG conversion to the LHT's list of attributes without conferring any liabilities or extra cost. Luke Especially since the bike is designed to be fendered. I think changing a rear tire on a fendered, fully loaded LHT would be much easier with Cross-Check dropouts. Any bike designed for fenders should have front-entry horizontal dropouts, if it has horizontal dropouts. Seems like a no-brainer. I don't understand the obsession with rear-entry dropout "track ends". |
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