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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
During my search for a rear rack that would work with the Arkel Bug
pannier/backpack I compiled a document with various possible suitable racks. I needed a rack that would: a) allow the pannier to be mounted far back enough so my foot wouldn't hit it with every crank revolution (size 11.5/46 shoes). b) had a way to hook the shock cord hook to something when the pannier was mounted toward the rear of the rack. c) had a "dog leg" style rear support strut so the pannier wouldn' flop into the wheel on bumps. I put together a list of racks that would be suitable. I put them onto a web site he "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/". Maybe it will help someone else looking for a suitable rack, since most rear racks on the market are not well designed to use with panniers. If anyone knows of any racks that I've missed then please let me know and I'll add them to the site. It should have at least a 15" platform length, have a "dog leg" style (or other appropriate style) rear strut, and have a long flat area at the bottom for hooking the shock cord. Steve http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/ --------------------------------------------------------------- Be Nice to America or We'll Bring Democracy to Your Country Too --------------------------------------------------------------- |
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
Search RBT arrrhives for 'datakoll rack'
That gives: DIY REAR RACK MOUNT TOURING RACK Biannual or triannual rusto painting, keeping an eye on weathering and wear, using the rack weekly for 60-70 pound grocery loads contained in a mil spec duffel from Campmor laced atop the rack with shock cords And camping gear on top and laced to the ply sides 7 years! |
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
In rec.bicycles.misc SMS wrote:
I put them onto a web site he "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/". Maybe it will help someone else looking for a suitable rack, since most rear racks on the market are not well designed to use with panniers. It looks good. I'll show it to my coworker who's having problems with his clearance. He's a small guy, but he also got a bike with short chainstays, so he's having problems. The thing really stopping him from coming to work on his bike is being able to put his laptop on the bike. If that doesn't work, I'm planning on getting a plastic tub, drilling some holes and fastening it to the top of the rack. -- Dane Buson - "It's an impressive feat to put the last nail in your own coffin while your on the inside!" -\. poster warpath on napsters .nap format |
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
Dane Buson wrote:
In rec.bicycles.misc SMS wrote: I put them onto a web site he "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/". Maybe it will help someone else looking for a suitable rack, since most rear racks on the market are not well designed to use with panniers. It looks good. I'll show it to my coworker who's having problems with his clearance. He's a small guy, but he also got a bike with short chainstays, so he's having problems. The thing really stopping him from coming to work on his bike is being able to put his laptop on the bike. If that doesn't work, I'm planning on getting a plastic tub, drilling some holes and fastening it to the top of the rack. Yeah, the problem with most racks now extends to even those with smaller feet, due to bicycles with smaller frames and shorter chain stays. Since so few users ever hang panniers on their racks, it usually isn't an issue. |
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
On Jun 5, 12:48 pm, SMS wrote:
Yeah, the problem with most racks now extends to even those with smaller feet, due to bicycles with smaller frames and shorter chain stays. I finally got my Bor Yueh Urban rack from Nashbar installed on my Specialized Sequoia Sport, the 2003 aluminum bike with 430mm chain stays, not their older, steel bike of the same name (quite a struggle since the rack seems to have been designed for a bike with 120mm rear spacing and eyelets on skinny dropouts). It's got a short deck as I think you found when you tried that rack out Steve? But I don't have a clearance problem with it and my panniers as I've had on other, similarly short deck racks. Unlike some racks with a top deck that bends up at the rear or that has vertical tubing in the way, I can securely hang the panniers I have all the way rearward without any interference from the rack itself. I suppose that combined with the long (for today's road bikes, including the 2007 Sequoias which have shrunk back a bit to ~415mm) chainstays helps. |
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
On Jun 5, 12:20 pm, SMS wrote:
Yes, the Bor-Yueh is better than I expected. I installed one on an old Univega mountain bike that I was converting to a pseudo-hybrid for a family member. I think that the measurement on the Bor Yueh web site must have included the length of the seat stay hardware. I had to make some custom seat stay brackets, as the ones that came with the rack weren't long enough, but I've had to do that with many racks. I added the Bor Yueh to the web site. "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks"- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - This thread caught my eye since I've had the same problem. Have you considered changing panniers, as well as racks? I imagine you were hoping to solve the problem only with a new rack, since you forked out the money for the Arkels and want to keep them. But if you can't solve the problem with just a new rack... I have various racks and panniers, and the only set of panniers I have that readily mount in a sufficiently rearward position are Ortliebs. Besides their other niceties, they have a large range of adjustment for their upper mounting "hooks", allowing additional rearward travel compared to panniers that have fixed hooks located near the ends of the bag. One thing to note is that the jaws of the upper mounts completely encircle the rack tubing, so the mounts cannot be placed in points where the horizontal tubing has any obstruction beneath it. Also, for the model I have (Backroller Plus), the back of the Ortlieb pannier is pretty stiff. I can't compare it to the Arkel, having never used one, but mine only move a little bit, even when fully loaded. I've never had one flop into the rear wheel, even when using a rack that doesn't have the "dog leg" shape. Of course, there may be other panniers that have these features, but I don't know of any. Stephen Greenwood |
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
Stephen Greenwood wrote:
This thread caught my eye since I've had the same problem. Have you considered changing panniers, as well as racks? I imagine you were hoping to solve the problem only with a new rack, since you forked out the money for the Arkels and want to keep them. But if you can't solve the problem with just a new rack... I have no problems with my regular Kangaroo panniers, and haven't found any others with as good of a mounting system (no springs, no shock cords). Alas, these U.S. made bags are no longer manufactured and the company is long gone, but they were the Ortleib of the 1980's. But the Arkel Bug is kind of a different animal, it's a convertible pannier/backpack, and there are almost no other such designs on the market. Arkel makes a big deal about their mounting system, and I think that on their regular panniers it's probably fine, but the Bug's mounting system is a little different because the backpack functionality forced some changes in the mounting system. |
#9
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
PLYWOOD REAR RACK
The rack problem is solvable thru adding ½ plywood, better than exterior roofing CDX, to a metal rack. Start with cardboard templates-visit a furniture store for card board. One sheet each side, one sheet on top. 3 bean cans wide and 2' long is adequate. The 2' length should allow the bike to stand up on the rear then lean against a support for maintenance, lubrication, and on a seat post for rear tire removal. Home Depot has metal hardware for joining sides to top on the top of the top. The bottom of the top gets two 2x2's at the joint. One side is beveled to direct and support the side plates angles to the dropout eyelets. The beveling 2x2 is essential to force the sideplates into a straight down run not bow out over time. The top/side/2x2 are joined with 1/8 bolts, blue locktite, washers. That's the skilled part. At the dropout, a 6mm grade 8 bolt is shimmed out with nuts and washers with the female end outboard thru the side plate which gets two fender washers each side. Use nylocks and loctite blue. Carry spare 6mm bolts as the quality may not be grade 8. Linseed metal hole area and all bolt hardware not painted. This contraption is mounted over the standard metal rack's top with rectangular straps spanning the metal racks members in 3 places-two aside rear, one ahead middle, or four if there's room. Cut straps from soft steel plate(scrap from metal shop), drill two holes and bolt the ply to the rack. The ply side's rise above the ply top's surface in three sections each side with two flush spaces between. The risers hold the top bag and load, form a keeper for rope loops, and allow flush access across in the in between spaces. The sides are cut in a curve back from your heel, trail and cut. The sides are cut out with four lightening holes with corners elongated for shock cord hook purchase. My side's are a long side top short side bottom with curves front and rear so the side plate looks like a bag. The ply is painted with several coats of white rusto from Wal after sanding clean. Straight side's four sides may look good in dayglo yellow or orange. When the standard rack's chainstay bracket breaks, fix an angle across the top's front (which runs up under the seat past the standard front rack edge) with two holes drilled for a long legged exhaust pipe U- bolt, standard from True Value. The U of the bolt goes around a 1/2 section salvaged frame tube placed over the seat post. My rig has a second front mount of metal angle bolted to the top's underside, running down to the seat stay cross piece. Use a steel cable u clamp there also True Value. For camping, the rack will mount one duffel on top with 45 pounds and two duffels or garbage bags each side with clothing and sleeping bag, tent bag atop the duffel. The rear wheel is off course beefier than standard: Conti/spec tube/ Cr-18 rim/14 ga straight spokes/Deore XT/Wheels Mfg solid axle. The ply rack's ability to continuously carry heavy loads for camping and shopping outstrips the standard metal rack by far. And off course there should be no mounting problems for Peter White's bags http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/packs&racks.htm , Jann, or whatever given the bolt-on anywhere ply. |
#10
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Long rear racks for large panniers and riders with big feet "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/"
In rec.bicycles.misc SMS wrote:
I put them onto a web site he "http://nordicgroup.us/rearracks/". Maybe it will help someone else looking for a suitable rack, since most rear racks on the market are not well designed to use with panniers. Dane Buson wrote: It looks good. I'll show it to my coworker who's having problems with his clearance. He's a small guy, but he also got a bike with short chainstays, so he's having problems. The thing really stopping him from coming to work on his bike is being able to put his laptop on the bike. If that doesn't work, I'm planning on getting a plastic tub, drilling some holes and fastening it to the top of the rack. Tub? The usual answer is to buy a milk crate, install with zipties. The upscale version in Madison is a milk crate secured with stainless hose clamps but that adds $2~$3. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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