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#1
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Repair or replace broken frame?
My eleven year old Dawes Audax (Shimano 21 speed RSX) has just developed a
crack through the top tube and lug, immediately behind the head tube. The top half of the tube is completely detached. I'm looking at cost options and my immediate reaction is that the existing 21 speed stuff will not last forever. Also a frame stripdown, repair and new paint job will be quite costly, so a new bike may be the best option. However, everything else seems in fairly good condition (I only do 2000 to 3000 miles per year and I have other bikes). I have two back wheels and clusters. Ditto two front wheels, new mudguards (fenders), leather saddle, Nokon cables etc. and although some parts could be kept for spares, I would end up throwing away a lot of good stuff. I am considering buying a new frame and forks (132.5m rear axle spacing and aheadset) and transferring all the bits over. When the seven speed changer eventually fails and if I can't source the parts I could upgrade them with nine speed. I'm trying to think of potential costs and pitfalls as I haven't done more than routine maintenance for a long, long time, although 30 years ago, when it was simpler, I used to do this sort of thing quite often. I'm compiling a list of what I need to check before I commit myself and I've thought of:- Bottom axle may be required if bottom bracket length is different. Chain line if bottom bracket length is different from current frame? New aheadset stem required as mine is a quill type. Are they available to fit my handlebar dia? Front derailleur if down tube is larger; tube shim if smaller. Will derailleur throw be correct if the bottom bracket width is different? Seat post diameter. Not important in this case as frame is supplied with a post. Can anyone assist please with what I might not have thought of yet? Thanks very much, Paul |
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#2
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Repair or replace broken frame?
On Jun 30, 5:54*pm, "Paul Moss" wrote:
My eleven year old Dawes Audax (Shimano 21 speed RSX) has just developed a crack through the top tube and lug, immediately behind the head tube. The top half of the tube is completely detached. I'm looking at cost options and my immediate reaction is that the existing 21 speed stuff will not last forever. Also a frame stripdown, repair and new paint job will be quite costly, so a new bike may be the best option. However, everything else seems in fairly good condition (I only do 2000 to 3000 miles per year and I have other bikes). I have two back wheels and clusters. Ditto two front wheels, new mudguards (fenders), leather saddle, Nokon cables etc. and although some parts could be kept for spares, I would end up throwing away a lot of good stuff. I am considering buying a new frame and forks (132.5m rear axle spacing and aheadset) and transferring all the bits over. When the seven speed changer eventually fails and if I can't source the parts I could upgrade them with nine speed. I'm trying to think of potential costs and pitfalls as I haven't done more than routine maintenance for a long, long time, although 30 years ago, when it was simpler, I used to do this sort of thing quite often. I'm compiling a list of what I need to check before I commit myself and I've thought of:- Bottom axle may be required if bottom bracket length is different. Chain line if bottom bracket length is different from current frame? New aheadset stem required as mine is a quill type. Are they available to fit my handlebar dia? Front derailleur if down tube is larger; tube shim if smaller. Will derailleur throw be correct if the bottom bracket width is different? Seat post diameter. Not important in this case as frame is supplied with a post. Can anyone assist please with what I might not have thought of yet? Thanks very much, Paul Carriage charges. Can you order all the necessary parts from one place and pay carriage only once? Andre Jute Impedance is futile, you will be simulated into the triode of the Borg. -- Robert Casey |
#3
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Repair or replace broken frame?
"Andre Jute" wrote in message
... Carriage charges. Can you order all the necessary parts from one place and pay carriage only once? Fortunately CRC don't do carriage charges, and wiggle don't over a certain amount. Even SJSC now have a more sensible carriage charge (2.5 quid for little stuff), which means getting the odd bit from them is lots less painful (they have a lot of specialised stock). |
#4
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Repair or replace broken frame?
In article ,
"Paul Moss" wrote: My eleven year old Dawes Audax (Shimano 21 speed RSX) has just developed a crack through the top tube and lug, immediately behind the head tube. The top half of the tube is completely detached. I'm looking at cost options and my immediate reaction is that the existing 21 speed stuff will not last forever. Also a frame stripdown, repair and new paint job will be quite costly, so a new bike may be the best option. However, everything else seems in fairly good condition (I only do 2000 to 3000 miles per year and I have other bikes). I have two back wheels and clusters. Ditto two front wheels, new mudguards (fenders), leather saddle, Nokon cables etc. and although some parts could be kept for spares, I would end up throwing away a lot of good stuff. I am considering buying a new frame and forks (132.5m rear axle spacing and aheadset) and transferring all the bits over. When the seven speed changer eventually fails and if I can't source the parts I could upgrade them with nine speed. I'm trying to think of potential costs and pitfalls as I haven't done more than routine maintenance for a long, long time, although 30 years ago, when it was simpler, I used to do this sort of thing quite often. I'm compiling a list of what I need to check before I commit myself and I've thought of:- Bottom axle may be required if bottom bracket length is different. Chain line if bottom bracket length is different from current frame? New aheadset stem required as mine is a quill type. Are they available to fit my handlebar dia? Front derailleur if down tube is larger; tube shim if smaller. Will derailleur throw be correct if the bottom bracket width is different? Seat post diameter. Not important in this case as frame is supplied with a post. Can anyone assist please with what I might not have thought of yet? Does the frame fit? Do you look forward to riding that frame? Do you enjoy being up on that frame every time? If yes, you can shop around for a frame maker to do the repair. It will cost some money. You may decide it will be money well spent. I had a frame repaired, and the frame maker suggested some additional modifications that made it better than new. -- Michael Press |
#5
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Repair or replace broken frame?
Paul Moss wrote:
My eleven year old Dawes Audax (Shimano 21 speed RSX) has just developed a crack through the top tube and lug, immediately behind the head tube. The top half of the tube is completely detached. I'm looking at cost options and my immediate reaction is that the existing 21 speed stuff will not last forever. Also a frame stripdown, repair and new paint job will be quite costly, so a new bike may be the best option. However, everything else seems in fairly good condition (I only do 2000 to 3000 miles per year and I have other bikes). I have two back wheels and clusters. Ditto two front wheels, new mudguards (fenders), leather saddle, Nokon cables etc. and although some parts could be kept for spares, I would end up throwing away a lot of good stuff. I am considering buying a new frame and forks (132.5m rear axle spacing and aheadset) and transferring all the bits over. When the seven speed changer eventually fails and if I can't source the parts I could upgrade them with nine speed. I'm trying to think of potential costs and pitfalls as I haven't done more than routine maintenance for a long, long time, although 30 years ago, when it was simpler, I used to do this sort of thing quite often. I'm compiling a list of what I need to check before I commit myself and I've thought of:- Bottom axle may be required if bottom bracket length is different. Chain line if bottom bracket length is different from current frame? New aheadset stem required as mine is a quill type. Are they available to fit my handlebar dia? Front derailleur if down tube is larger; tube shim if smaller. Will derailleur throw be correct if the bottom bracket width is different? Seat post diameter. Not important in this case as frame is supplied with a post. Can anyone assist please with what I might not have thought of yet? Thanks very much, Paul unless you go for an andy muzi repair, i'd abandon it and take the opportunity to upgrade to a modern frame with oversize tubes. increased torsional stiffness is a real pleasure. if cost is a concern, you'll have a real tough time beating one of those cheapo nashbar aluminum frames. i've been commuting on one for nearly 6 years. rock solid. incredibly well behaved. |
#6
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Repair or replace broken frame?
Paul Moss wrote:
My eleven year old Dawes Audax (Shimano 21 speed RSX) has just developed a crack through the top tube and lug, immediately behind the head tube. The top half of the tube is completely detached. I'm looking at cost options and my immediate reaction is that the existing 21 speed stuff will not last forever. Also a frame stripdown, repair and new paint job will be quite costly, so a new bike may be the best option. However, everything else seems in fairly good condition (I only do 2000 to 3000 miles per year and I have other bikes). I have two back wheels and clusters. Ditto two front wheels, new mudguards (fenders), leather saddle, Nokon cables etc. and although some parts could be kept for spares, I would end up throwing away a lot of good stuff. I am considering buying a new frame and forks (132.5m rear axle spacing and aheadset) and transferring all the bits over. When the seven speed changer eventually fails and if I can't source the parts I could upgrade them with nine speed. I'm trying to think of potential costs and pitfalls as I haven't done more than routine maintenance for a long, long time, although 30 years ago, when it was simpler, I used to do this sort of thing quite often. I'm compiling a list of what I need to check before I commit myself and I've thought of:- Bottom axle may be required if bottom bracket length is different. Chain line if bottom bracket length is different from current frame? New aheadset stem required as mine is a quill type. Are they available to fit my handlebar dia? Front derailleur if down tube is larger; tube shim if smaller. Will derailleur throw be correct if the bottom bracket width is different? Seat post diameter. Not important in this case as frame is supplied with a post. Can anyone assist please with what I might not have thought of yet? jim beam wrote: unless you go for an andy muzi repair, i'd abandon it and take the opportunity to upgrade to a modern frame with oversize tubes. increased torsional stiffness is a real pleasure. if cost is a concern, you'll have a real tough time beating one of those cheapo nashbar aluminum frames. i've been commuting on one for nearly 6 years. rock solid. incredibly well behaved. Certainly any among dozens of frame shops do that work besides me, but in a cost/benefit approach, a decent steel used frame is one obvious solution. Or 'alternate materials' as you note. Or a complete classic sport bike through craigslist for not much money at all. To your concern for a 3x7 gear train service - all the bits are current and cheap, looks good for the foreseeable future. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#7
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Repair or replace broken frame?
Paul Moss wrote:
My eleven year old Dawes Audax (Shimano 21 speed RSX) has just developed a crack through the top tube and lug, immediately behind the head tube. The top half of the tube is completely detached. I'm looking at cost options and my immediate reaction is that the existing 21 speed stuff will not last forever. Also a frame stripdown, repair and new paint job will be quite costly, so a new bike may be the best option. However, everything else seems in fairly good condition (I only do 2000 to 3000 miles per year and I have other bikes). I have two back wheels and clusters. Ditto two front wheels, new mudguards (fenders), leather saddle, Nokon cables etc. and although some parts could be kept for spares, I would end up throwing away a lot of good stuff. I am considering buying a new frame and forks (132.5m rear axle spacing and aheadset) and transferring all the bits over. When the seven speed changer eventually fails and if I can't source the parts I could upgrade them with nine speed. I'm trying to think of potential costs and pitfalls as I haven't done more than routine maintenance for a long, long time, although 30 years ago, when it was simpler, I used to do this sort of thing quite often. I'm compiling a list of what I need to check before I commit myself and I've thought of:- Bottom axle may be required if bottom bracket length is different. Chain line if bottom bracket length is different from current frame? New aheadset stem required as mine is a quill type. Are they available to fit my handlebar dia? Front derailleur if down tube is larger; tube shim if smaller. Will derailleur throw be correct if the bottom bracket width is different? Seat post diameter. Not important in this case as frame is supplied with a post. Can anyone assist please with what I might not have thought of yet? jim beam wrote: unless you go for an andy muzi repair, i'd abandon it and take the opportunity to upgrade to a modern frame with oversize tubes. increased torsional stiffness is a real pleasure. if cost is a concern, you'll have a real tough time beating one of those cheapo nashbar aluminum frames. i've been commuting on one for nearly 6 years. rock solid. incredibly well behaved. Certainly any among dozens of frame shops could do that work besides me. However, a decent steel used frame is one obvious solution. Or 'alternate materials' as Mr Beam notes. Or a complete classic sport bike through craigslist for not much money at all. To your concern for a 3x7 gear train service - all the bits are current and cheap, looks good for the foreseeable future. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#8
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Repair or replace broken frame?
"A Muzi" wrote in message
... jim beam wrote: if cost is a concern, you'll have a real tough time beating one of those cheapo nashbar aluminum frames. i've been commuting on one for nearly 6 years. rock solid. incredibly well behaved. Or a complete classic sport bike through craigslist for not much money at all. May be worth pointing out that the OP appears to be rightpondian, so the choice of decent audax type frames, whether in steel or Al is actually fairly good. cheers, clive |
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