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  #71  
Old August 14th 18, 04:35 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tim McNamara
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Posts: 6,945
Default Flat repair

On Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:48:59 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2
cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to
you.


Good grief, who carries all that crap? I carry one spare tube, a patch
kit, tire lever and my trusty Silca Impero with Campy head.

With tubeless you need to carry a spare tube, inflation device of some
sort... or a cell phone and have a sympathetic spouse for when the tire
can't be simply remounted, the seal fails and can't be resealed, etc.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every
other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles...


Might not be.

Car and truck tires, for example, are much larger, much stiffer, have a
much heavier bead, much thicker construction and operate at much lower
air pressures than road bike tires do. Modern motorcycles have
converted to tubeless but again the tires are larger, thicker, more
heavily built, larger deeper bead, etc∆. None of the foregoing are
designed to be taken off the rim on the road, unlike all bike tires.

MTB tires at say 30-40 PSI seem to be better candidates than 700 x 25
tires at 115 psi for the tubeless approach *as it currently stands.* I
also think the product design will improve and that the weaknesses of
tubeless bicycle tires (requiring a sealant to overcome the inherent
inadequacy of the tire bead-rim interface) will be obviated. But it
will take stepping away from the legacy dimensions of the tire-rim
interface to one that may not be removable with home equipment.
Ads
  #72  
Old August 14th 18, 04:43 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tim McNamara
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Posts: 6,945
Default Flat repair

On Mon, 13 Aug 2018 17:50:44 -0700, sms
wrote:

Performance-Tubeless tires are lower performance.


"Lower performnce" in what way? Everything I have read to date
suggestss that tubeless bike tires have lower rolling resistance than
tubed tires (although much less difference with latex tubes than butyl
tubes), e.g.:

MTB:
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...ex-butyl-tubes

But murkier with 700C:

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...eless-clincher
  #73  
Old August 14th 18, 03:10 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 1,261
Default Flat repair

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote:
On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote:
Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again?

1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have
noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by
making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck,
they even make their new products incompatible with their own products.

2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when
they relie on results from very narrow test conditions.

3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail
twice to have you walking.


1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible?

2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this.

3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally.

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products"
or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles.


What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless.

-- Jay Beattie.


How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with.
  #74  
Old August 14th 18, 03:16 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 1,261
Default Flat repair

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:50:56 PM UTC-7, sms wrote:
On 8/13/2018 11:15 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, August 9, 2018 at 11:14:13 PM UTC-7, Andy wrote:
I had to repair a flat. Have some questions.

Is it best to apply patch to a completly flat tube?

I found a small copper wire in tire.

Is there something to minimize what can puncture tire?

Thanks


I am rather amazed at the reticence of bicyclists to use tubeless tires.. Every other vehicle from commercial trucks to Indy racers use tubeless tires as a matter of course and have for decades. I warrant that most of you have never seen a car tire that uses a tube.


Don't be amazed. There are valid reasons why tubeless has not caught on.

Expense-Tubeless rims and tires are much more expensive.

Reliability-When tubeless works, it’s great. But they fail much more
often than a good tube tire and good tube.

Performance-Tubeless tires are lower performance.

Hassle-You still have to carry a tube and a pump (or CO2) because if a
tire cannot be repaired in the field you’re S.O.L.

It’s very different than vehicle tires where weight of the tire is not
of paramount importance and the tires operate at relatively low pressure.


Sorry - you'll have to show ANY real information that tubeless tires fail even near the rates of tube tires.

Tubeless performance is WAY better than tube tires and I showed the tests showing a 1 1/2% decrease in rolling resistance. So WHY would you say that? How many Indy cars use tube tires?
  #75  
Old August 14th 18, 03:19 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,261
Default Flat repair

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 8:35:56 PM UTC-7, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2018 15:48:59 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2
cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to
you.


Good grief, who carries all that crap? I carry one spare tube, a patch
kit, tire lever and my trusty Silca Impero with Campy head.

With tubeless you need to carry a spare tube, inflation device of some
sort... or a cell phone and have a sympathetic spouse for when the tire
can't be simply remounted, the seal fails and can't be resealed, etc.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every
other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles...


Might not be.

Car and truck tires, for example, are much larger, much stiffer, have a
much heavier bead, much thicker construction and operate at much lower
air pressures than road bike tires do. Modern motorcycles have
converted to tubeless but again the tires are larger, thicker, more
heavily built, larger deeper bead, etc∆. None of the foregoing are
designed to be taken off the rim on the road, unlike all bike tires.

MTB tires at say 30-40 PSI seem to be better candidates than 700 x 25
tires at 115 psi for the tubeless approach *as it currently stands.* I
also think the product design will improve and that the weaknesses of
tubeless bicycle tires (requiring a sealant to overcome the inherent
inadequacy of the tire bead-rim interface) will be obviated. But it
will take stepping away from the legacy dimensions of the tire-rim
interface to one that may not be removable with home equipment.


So did we in the SF bay area until California stopped maintaining the roads.. I'm about to ride up to a group ride and I will find broken glass on the way that has been there for months.
  #76  
Old August 14th 18, 05:07 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Flat repair

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote:
On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote:
Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again?

1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have
noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by
making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck,
they even make their new products incompatible with their own products.

2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when
they relie on results from very narrow test conditions.

3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail
twice to have you walking.

1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible?

2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this.

3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally.

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products"
or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles.


What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless.

-- Jay Beattie.


How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with.


I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal?

-- Jay Beattie.
  #77  
Old August 14th 18, 05:28 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Flat repair

On 8/14/2018 11:07 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote:
On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote:
Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again?

1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have
noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by
making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck,
they even make their new products incompatible with their own products.

2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when
they relie on results from very narrow test conditions.

3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail
twice to have you walking.

1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible?

2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires

at 110 psi could and did report this.

3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally.

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products"
or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles.

What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless.

-- Jay Beattie.


How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with.


I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal?



Simple. Pull out your handy length of steel wire, garrote
some passing cyclist, leave his body for the mountain lions
and ride off on his bike.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #78  
Old August 14th 18, 05:42 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Duane[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 401
Default Flat repair

On 14/08/2018 12:07 PM, jbeattie wrote:

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote:

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote:
On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote:
Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again?

1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have
noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by
making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck,
they even make their new products incompatible with their own products.

2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when
they relie on results from very narrow test conditions.

3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail
twice to have you walking.

1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible?

2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this.

3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally.

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products"
or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles.

What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless.

-- Jay Beattie.


How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with.


I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal?



Same here. And the new paper money in Canada is plastic which works
really well for booting a slit tire.
I have no idea what you would do for tubeless tires.

  #79  
Old August 14th 18, 05:42 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Duane[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 401
Default Flat repair

On 14/08/2018 12:28 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/14/2018 11:07 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7,
wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote:
On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote:
Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat
repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when
you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you
happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to
soften the tire before it seals again?

1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have
noticedÂ* how manufacturers try to lock customers into their
product by
making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck,
they even make their new products incompatible with their own
products.

2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when
they relie on results from very narrow test conditions.

3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail
twice to have you walking.

1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their
product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless
compatible?

2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life
than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition.
What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from
tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance
of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the
rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower
pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is
not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling
resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not
meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as
should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the
tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the
relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than
burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long
time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23
mm tires

at 110 psi could and did report this.

3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires
left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give
you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them
BOTH equally.

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2
cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic
to you.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on
every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to
bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate
responses like "lock you in to their products"
Â* or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions."
when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle
tire performance than those of a motorcycles.

What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride?Â* Nothing
is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a
CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless.

-- Jay Beattie.

How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different
conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do
if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really
have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they
are responding with.


I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in
place by an inner tube.Â* What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you
cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal?



Simple. Pull out your handy length of steel wire, garrote some passing
cyclist, leave his body for the mountain lions and ride off on his bike.


Coffee through the nose...
  #80  
Old August 14th 18, 05:47 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 824
Default Flat repair

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 6:07:42 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote:
On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote:
Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again?

1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have
noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by
making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck,
they even make their new products incompatible with their own products.

2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when
they relie on results from very narrow test conditions.

3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail
twice to have you walking.

1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible?

2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this.

3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally.

Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you.

You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products"
or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles.

What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless.

-- Jay Beattie.


How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with.


I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal?

-- Jay Beattie.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4i0ttwnSszY

pfff.....

Lou
 




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