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#1
October 12th 04, 04:41 PM
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CXP-33 meltdown?
My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises.
The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. Dave 
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#2
October 12th 04, 04:59 PM
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"Dave Stallard" wrote in message
... My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises. The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. Dave Most likely insufficient/uneven tension and/or lack of pre-stressing in the initial build. CXP33's are stout rims and shouldn't need a lot of attention with 32 spokes. So the build job is a bit suspect, but the builder's at least right in that it needs to be de-tensioned and redone. Basically a rebuild without the relacing, yes. But you should never get to the point where you're riding around on tensionless spokes anyway; you should make a habit of checking the wheels once every few hundred miles for any out-of-true spots and squeezing the spokes a bit to feel for variances in tension. That way you catch problems before they get beyond what would only require a few minutes' attention to sort out. SB
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#3
October 12th 04, 04:59 PM
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"Dave Stallard" wrote in message
... My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises. The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. Dave Most likely insufficient/uneven tension and/or lack of pre-stressing in the initial build. CXP33's are stout rims and shouldn't need a lot of attention with 32 spokes. So the build job is a bit suspect, but the builder's at least right in that it needs to be de-tensioned and redone. Basically a rebuild without the relacing, yes. But you should never get to the point where you're riding around on tensionless spokes anyway; you should make a habit of checking the wheels once every few hundred miles for any out-of-true spots and squeezing the spokes a bit to feel for variances in tension. That way you catch problems before they get beyond what would only require a few minutes' attention to sort out. SB
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#4
October 12th 04, 05:04 PM
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My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises.
The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. ======== Sounds like a pretty poor wheel build...If spoke tension had been good up front, and the spokes had been properly relieved, you shudda been able to ride it, under normal circumstances, probably untouched,, 'til the sidewalls caved... JMHO... PH
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#5
October 12th 04, 05:04 PM
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My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises.
The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. ======== Sounds like a pretty poor wheel build...If spoke tension had been good up front, and the spokes had been properly relieved, you shudda been able to ride it, under normal circumstances, probably untouched,, 'til the sidewalls caved... JMHO... PH
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#6
October 12th 04, 05:12 PM
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"Steve Blankenship" wrote in message ... "Dave Stallard" wrote in message ... My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises. The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. Dave Most likely insufficient/uneven tension and/or lack of pre-stressing in the initial build. CXP33's are stout rims and shouldn't need a lot of attention with 32 spokes. So the build job is a bit suspect, but the builder's at least right in that it needs to be de-tensioned and redone. Basically a rebuild without the relacing, yes. But you should never get to the point where you're riding around on tensionless spokes anyway; you should make a habit of checking the wheels once every few hundred miles for any out-of-true spots and squeezing the spokes a bit to feel for variances in tension. That way you catch problems before they get beyond what would only require a few minutes' attention to sort out. Why do you need to bring this wheel to zero tension? I would just get it true and dished and then raise the tension to 100kgf or so on the left side, making sure that tension was equal on all spokes -- either by tone or tensiometer. Assuming that the spoke threads/sockets are lubicated and that no gunk was used on the orignal build, this should be a pretty simple job. -- Jay Beattie.
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#7
October 12th 04, 05:12 PM
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"Steve Blankenship" wrote in message ... "Dave Stallard" wrote in message ... My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises. The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. Dave Most likely insufficient/uneven tension and/or lack of pre-stressing in the initial build. CXP33's are stout rims and shouldn't need a lot of attention with 32 spokes. So the build job is a bit suspect, but the builder's at least right in that it needs to be de-tensioned and redone. Basically a rebuild without the relacing, yes. But you should never get to the point where you're riding around on tensionless spokes anyway; you should make a habit of checking the wheels once every few hundred miles for any out-of-true spots and squeezing the spokes a bit to feel for variances in tension. That way you catch problems before they get beyond what would only require a few minutes' attention to sort out. Why do you need to bring this wheel to zero tension? I would just get it true and dished and then raise the tension to 100kgf or so on the left side, making sure that tension was equal on all spokes -- either by tone or tensiometer. Assuming that the spoke threads/sockets are lubicated and that no gunk was used on the orignal build, this should be a pretty simple job. -- Jay Beattie.
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#8
October 12th 04, 06:07 PM
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"Jay Beattie" wrote in message
... "Steve Blankenship" wrote in message ... "Dave Stallard" wrote in message ... My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises. The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. Dave Most likely insufficient/uneven tension and/or lack of pre-stressing in the initial build. CXP33's are stout rims and shouldn't need a lot of attention with 32 spokes. So the build job is a bit suspect, but the builder's at least right in that it needs to be de-tensioned and redone. Basically a rebuild without the relacing, yes. But you should never get to the point where you're riding around on tensionless spokes anyway; you should make a habit of checking the wheels once every few hundred miles for any out-of-true spots and squeezing the spokes a bit to feel for variances in tension. That way you catch problems before they get beyond what would only require a few minutes' attention to sort out. Why do you need to bring this wheel to zero tension? I would just get it true and dished and then raise the tension to 100kgf or so on the left side, making sure that tension was equal on all spokes -- either by tone or tensiometer. Assuming that the spoke threads/sockets are lubicated and that no gunk was used on the orignal build, this should be a pretty simple job. -- Jay Beattie. Thinking from the POV of the mech/builder, I'd want to make sure the owner hadn't mucked it up too much - just eliminating an unknown variable. Easy to just spin the spokes back to say, just where the threads start to show and go back from there, and likely no more time-consuming than undoing someone's mistakes. I don't know the OP's skill with a spoke wrench of course, but I've seen many people cause more problems with one than they solve when they encounter loose spokes. SB SB
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#9
October 12th 04, 06:07 PM
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"Jay Beattie" wrote in message
... "Steve Blankenship" wrote in message ... "Dave Stallard" wrote in message ... My rear wheel, Mavic CXP-33, 32 spokes, 2K miles, developed some noises. The wheel had a slight wobble. Upon inspection, I discovered that several spokes were quite loose - as in no tension at all. I tightened them, but decided the next day to bring the bike in to the guy who had built the wheels up for me. He looked at the wheel, and said it was more than a "few" loose spokes, that basically all of them were loose, and that all the spokes needed to be brought down to zero tension, the wheel re-dished, etc. Sounds like a wheel rebuild, basically! My question is, what could have happened to this wheel? Was it not built properly to begin with? FWIW, I'm about 170-180 lbs. I ride over semi-rough Boston-area roads, but try to avoid major potholes. 23C tires for the first 1.4K miles, switched to 25Cs subsequently. Dave Most likely insufficient/uneven tension and/or lack of pre-stressing in the initial build. CXP33's are stout rims and shouldn't need a lot of attention with 32 spokes. So the build job is a bit suspect, but the builder's at least right in that it needs to be de-tensioned and redone. Basically a rebuild without the relacing, yes. But you should never get to the point where you're riding around on tensionless spokes anyway; you should make a habit of checking the wheels once every few hundred miles for any out-of-true spots and squeezing the spokes a bit to feel for variances in tension. That way you catch problems before they get beyond what would only require a few minutes' attention to sort out. Why do you need to bring this wheel to zero tension? I would just get it true and dished and then raise the tension to 100kgf or so on the left side, making sure that tension was equal on all spokes -- either by tone or tensiometer. Assuming that the spoke threads/sockets are lubicated and that no gunk was used on the orignal build, this should be a pretty simple job. -- Jay Beattie. Thinking from the POV of the mech/builder, I'd want to make sure the owner hadn't mucked it up too much - just eliminating an unknown variable. Easy to just spin the spokes back to say, just where the threads start to show and go back from there, and likely no more time-consuming than undoing someone's mistakes. I don't know the OP's skill with a spoke wrench of course, but I've seen many people cause more problems with one than they solve when they encounter loose spokes. SB SB
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#10
October 12th 04, 08:10 PM
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Steve Blankenship wrote:
Thinking from the POV of the mech/builder, I'd want to make sure the owner hadn't mucked it up too much - just eliminating an unknown variable. Easy to just spin the spokes back to say, just where the threads start to show and go back from there, and likely no more time-consuming than undoing someone's mistakes. I don't know the OP's skill with a spoke wrench of course, but I've seen many people cause more problems with one than they solve when they encounter loose spokes. The OP has trued wheels, but not for a long time.  I just figuredthat if they were floppy loose, tightening them to non-floppy-looseness wouldn't hurt anything, and would probably help a bit. And it seemed to: the noise diminished, and the wheels were less wobbly. Only rode about 40 miles with that "fix" before bringing it, however. It does seem like the spokes were not pre-tensioned during the build, and stretched during use. I suppose properly tensioned spokes should ring a bit when flicked with a finger, no? Dave
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