LBS competence repairing flats

"Ron Wallenfang" wrote in message
...
On Mar 10, 12:46 pm, " wrote:
Couple weeks ago, I had a slow leak on my Electra (Schwalbe Marathon +
tires). I told the mechanic I was very interested in knowing what
caused the flat, because otherwise a new tube might be a very short
term solution. He was unable to locate the puncture. The inflated tube
seemed to stay inflated. He did not put it under water. The inside of
the tire looked OK. Installed a new tube and sent me on my way.

This morning, tire completely flat. Last night it was OK. Walked it to
the shop, told the mechanic I really want to know the cause. This
time, he looked at the OEM rim strip, which was both too narrow and
cheap quality. One of the nipples had worn through. He used a wider
cloth strip this time.

Should the mechanic have checked the rim strip first time around, as
standard procedure? As time goes on, I am finding more reasons to
dislike this shop, which by the way is Performance Bike.

J.

Bicycle repairman is not a high wage job and, naturally, there's quite
a bit of turnover. By and large, they're good at what they do within
those limits. I would not be in a hurry to cast blame over the
necessary imperfections you encounter. I change my own flats, having
learned what to look for from my own mistakes over the years. But
even a raw repairman is better than me at just about any other repair.

With my folder, I was getting pretty good at fixing a range of things,
including flats. But that was almost necessary, because I was pushing that
little bike beyond its intended use (year round commuting). On the other
hand, my Electra has been mostly trouble-free through winter commuting.

With my Electra, the repairman told me the rear wheel is a bit of a
challenge, because it involves the Shimano Nexus hub, roller brake and chain
case. They charge me ~ $20, and it takes ~ 30 minutes.

http://orion.neiu.edu/~jbollyn/bike/...wheel-left.jpg

J.

"Jobst Brandt" wrote in message
...
Jim Bollyn wrote:

Couple weeks ago, I had a slow leak on my Electra (Schwalbe Marathon
+ tires). I told the mechanic I was very interested in knowing what
caused the flat, because otherwise a new tube might be a very short
term solution. He was unable to locate the puncture. The inflated
tube seemed to stay inflated. He did not put it under water. The
inside of the tire looked OK. Installed a new tube and sent me on
my way.

This morning, tire completely flat. Last night it was OK. Walked
it to the shop, told the mechanic I really want to know the cause.
This time, he looked at the OEM rim strip, which was both too narrow
and cheap quality. One of the nipples had worn through. He used a
wider cloth strip this time.

Should the mechanic have checked the rim strip first time around, as
standard procedure? As time goes on, I am finding more reasons to
dislike this shop, which by the way is Performance Bike.

I think he should have tested the tube under water with fairly large
inflation, something that will likely reveal the location of even a
slow leak. Did this tube have any prior patch?

(snip)

Jobst Brandt

The tube was not patched.

When the tube did not appear to leak, I thought about suggesting submerging
it in water. I don't know why I kept quiet. But even so, he was only looking
at the tube and tire, not the rim.

J.

"Dan O" wrote in message
...
On Mar 10, 1:31 pm, "Jay" wrote:
"Kristian M Zoerhoff" wrote in
messagenews:slrnhpg2nl.62l.kristian.zoerhoff@otaku .freeshell.org...

(snip)

Seriously? You take your bike to the shop for a flat tire?

How much did they charge you, BTW? Unless it was at least $50, I
don't think you can complain about the mechanic's professional
thoroughness.

The shop does not make much money on an Electra rear flat. I think there are
plenty of simple basic bikes where a flat takes 10 minutes. Mine takes ~ 30
minutes. I am told, the Shimano Nexus hub is the worst of it, followed by
the chain case.

J.

On Mar 10, 1:18*pm, landotter wrote:

Performance on Halsted? I'd go to Rapid Transit on North, but give the
guys at Performance a break. Sometimes you can miss a worn bit on an
OEM strip, and they did catch it the second time.

http://www.chicagobikeshops.info/

Rim strips seldom cause slow leaks
Jobst Brandt

true

On Mar 10, 10:46*am, " wrote:
Couple weeks ago, I had a slow leak on my Electra (Schwalbe Marathon +
tires). I told the mechanic I was very interested in knowing what
caused the flat, because otherwise a new tube might be a very short
term solution. He was unable to locate the puncture. The inflated tube
seemed to stay inflated. He did not put it under water. The inside of
the tire looked OK. Installed a new tube and sent me on my way.

This morning, tire completely flat. Last night it was OK. Walked it to
the shop, told the mechanic I really want to know the cause. This
time, he looked at the OEM rim strip, which was both too narrow and
cheap quality. One of the nipples had worn through. He used a wider
cloth strip this time.

Should the mechanic have checked the rim strip first time around, as
standard procedure? As time goes on, I am finding more reasons to
dislike this shop, which by the way is Performance Bike.

J.

I've done a lot of flats. Here is my general diagnostic procedu

1. Remove the wheel with the flat.
2. Remove the tire and tube.
3. Inspect the tire for tacks, glass, staples etc. If there is
nothing obvious, you need to run your fingers lightly along the inside
of the tire. Many staple and glass punctures keep the ends in the
tire.
4. If patching, inflate the tube to a reasonable pressure, rotate it
next to your ear and cheek (facial). This way I can hear any leak and
feel the air coming out. I haven't used a water tank in years.
5. Examine the rim strip, and the rim for sharp things by running
your fingers around it.

I presume most bike shops find it cheaper (for them) to throw in a new
tube instead of patching.

On a bike with a fancy cabled hub, a shortcut is obviously to not take
the wheel off but do the same diagnostics if possible. I don't have a
problem with a fancy hub because of my skill, but I realize others
might.

I don't know why anyone would want an Electra instead of a mundane
comfort mountain bike with snow tires, and I don't know why anyone
would want to ride a bike in the cold. I don't know why anyone would
want to live in Schaumburg.

On Mar 13, 9:41 am, me wrote:
On Mar 10, 10:46 am, " wrote:



Couple weeks ago, I had a slow leak on my Electra (Schwalbe Marathon +
tires). I told the mechanic I was very interested in knowing what
caused the flat, because otherwise a new tube might be a very short
term solution. He was unable to locate the puncture. The inflated tube
seemed to stay inflated. He did not put it under water. The inside of
the tire looked OK. Installed a new tube and sent me on my way.

This morning, tire completely flat. Last night it was OK. Walked it to
the shop, told the mechanic I really want to know the cause. This
time, he looked at the OEM rim strip, which was both too narrow and
cheap quality. One of the nipples had worn through. He used a wider
cloth strip this time.

Should the mechanic have checked the rim strip first time around, as
standard procedure? As time goes on, I am finding more reasons to
dislike this shop, which by the way is Performance Bike.

J.

I've done a lot of flats. Here is my general diagnostic procedu

1. Remove the wheel with the flat.

Before removing the wheel, I usually turn it one revolution and look
for an obvious cause.

2. Remove the tire and tube.

I usually just take one bead off the rim, then pull the tube out.

3. Inspect the tire for tacks, glass, staples etc. If there is
nothing obvious, you need to run your fingers lightly along the inside
of the tire. Many staple and glass punctures keep the ends in the
tire.

If I haven't already noticed a cause and cleared it from the tire,
next I inflate the bare tube outside the tire to find the leak (as in
your step 4 below). After I find the leak, I can correlate it's
location in the tire and look there for the cause.

4. If patching, inflate the tube to a reasonable pressure, rotate it
next to your ear and cheek (facial). This way I can hear any leak and
feel the air coming out. I haven't used a water tank in years.

I usually pass the inflated tube through a ring formed by one hand,
held close to my ear for a second pass if necessary. This way if the
hissing leak is perceptible, I will hear the hissing diminish as it
passes under my hand, and simultaneously feel the air stream, quickly
pinpointing the leak.

(A couple drops from a water bottle can confirm the location of a tiny
leak.)

5. Examine the rim strip, and the rim for sharp things by running
your fingers around it.

This is something that I don't do, unless indicated by location of
leak and no evident cause in the tire. (Maybe in the shop - just for
routine inspection while everything is apart - but not on the
roadside).

Of course, fixing the typical flat is different than fixing a slow
leak, in which the water tub may be very helpful.


I presume most bike shops find it cheaper (for them) to throw in a new
tube instead of patching.

Especially since they're charging you for the tube -plus markup.

On Mar 13, 9:41 am, me wrote:

snip


On a bike with a fancy cabled hub, a shortcut is obviously to not take
the wheel off but do the same diagnostics if possible. I don't have a
problem with a fancy hub because of my skill, but I realize others
might.

Uh... yeah. Okay.


I don't know why anyone would want an Electra instead of a mundane
comfort mountain bike with snow tires, and I don't know why anyone
would want to ride a bike in the cold. I don't know why anyone would
want to live in Schaumburg.

Electra makes a really nice little pink cruiser with 16" wheels,
flower decals and matching steel fenders.

This morning in 40 degrees F with a stiff headwind I rode to the fire
station on my MTB w/ fat bouncy slicks. The last block was grassy
marsh with standing water on it - wheeeeeeee! :-)

Later, I was in the garage looking at my road bike, when the
compulsion sent me out the driveway in the mid-30's with sandals and
short sleeves.

Maybe the girls are pretty there?

"me" wrote in message
...

(snip)

I don't know why anyone would want an Electra instead of a mundane
comfort mountain bike with snow tires,


I wanted to try a Dutch bike, something along the lines of a Gazelle Opa,
which is clearly the inspiration for the Electra Amsterdam Royal8:

http://www.mydutchbike.com/bicycles/...-and-opafiets/

I see the Opa comes in 66cm, while the Royal8 is a 'one size fits all' (not
sure of the frame size). That should have been my first warning that the
Royal8 would not fit me, both for my 6'4" height and 270lbs. If I needed
another warning, it would be the Thomson Elite post breaking in two after
one year's use (5,000 miles on city streets).

I am also going to swap out the handlebars, because they hit me in the knees
when turning, if I am not careful. But for the most part, the bike is OK,
the way I have customized it, for rain/snow. Otherwise, I will ride the
Cannondale BBQ.

J.

On Mar 14, 9:07*am, "Jay" wrote:
"me" wrote in message

...

(snip)

I don't know why anyone would want an Electra instead of a mundane
comfort mountain bike with snow tires,

I wanted to try a Dutch bike, something along the lines of a Gazelle Opa,
which is clearly the inspiration for the Electra Amsterdam Royal8:

http://www.mydutchbike.com/bicycles/...-and-opafiets/

I see the Opa comes in 66cm, while the Royal8 is a 'one size fits all' (not
sure of the frame size). That should have been my first warning that the
Royal8 would not fit me, both for my 6'4" height and 270lbs. If I needed
another warning, it would be the Thomson Elite post breaking in two after
one year's use (5,000 miles on city streets).

I am also going to swap out the handlebars, because they hit me in the knees
when turning, if I am not careful. But for the most part, the bike is OK,
the way I have customized it, for rain/snow. Otherwise, I will ride the
Cannondale BBQ.

J.

I'm mistaken about you having a big cruiser if you have the Royal8
which I just saw.

I presume you will be tilting the handlebars upwards as a temporary
solution. With your height, maybe you've thought of using a stem
riser, in which case you would most likely have to spend a lot of
money to extend any existing cabling.

If you get the ape hanger handlebars maybe you can move the grip
shifter way down so you don't have to extend the cabling. I don't
know if this can be done without installing a bar-end kludge.

http://www.amazon.com/Nirve-Cruiser-.../dp/B000QFOMBM