V-Rex Seat Suggestions?

Hi:

I have a 1998 V-Rex that's been significantly modified, with a
Bachetta-style handlebar riser and a Rholoff hub. The RANS seat is
broken on one side, and I've inserted and glued-in-place a wooden dowel
to keep the thing on the road, but would like to replace the seat with
something that's not broken. I guess the limiting thing is that goofy
skewer-and-bracket that was used on the 1998 model. (I'm not sure what
they use now.) I don't think I want another RANS seat, although that's
an option. Maybe a Bachetta seat or something even more aero?

Any ideas?

As usual cut the "tail" to reply.

--Scott

"Freewheeling" wrote in message
...
Hi:

I have a 1998 V-Rex that's been significantly modified, with a
Bachetta-style handlebar riser and a Rholoff hub. The RANS seat is broken
on one side, and I've inserted and glued-in-place a wooden dowel to keep
the thing on the road, but would like to replace the seat with something
that's not broken. I guess the limiting thing is that goofy
skewer-and-bracket that was used on the 1998 model. (I'm not sure what
they use now.) I don't think I want another RANS seat, although that's an
option. Maybe a Bachetta seat or something even more aero?

Any ideas?

As usual cut the "tail" to reply.

--Scott

It sounds like you have a few options, most involve taking the old seat
mount off and fitting it to a new seat, which could be a newish quality RANS
seat made through the year they went to the RAD-LOC. a Bacchetta seat with a
bracket graft. even a hardshell like the M5. You could also remove the sheet
metal seat mount from your V-Rex and buy the Rad-Loc adapter and a new RANS
seat, or graft the Rad-Loc to an older seat.

Just an opinion about 'glass seats; the Novo-sports (like the pre body-link
HP Velo seat) seat is more comfortable than the M5 style. TheNovo seat pan
rolls the edge over to reduce pressure on your thighs, nut up to increase
cupping and edge pressure.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

You can go to

http://www.bentrideronline.com/messa...ad.php?t=25745

and see how Slow Joe did it.

Enjoy,

Perry B


As usual cut the "tail" to reply.

On Apr 3, 11:52 am, "gotbent" wrote:
"Freewheeling" wrote in message

...



Hi:

I have a 1998 V-Rex that's been significantly modified, with a
Bachetta-style handlebar riser and a Rholoff hub. The RANS seat is broken
on one side, and I've inserted and glued-in-place a wooden dowel to keep
the thing on the road, but would like to replace the seat with something
that's not broken. I guess the limiting thing is that goofy
skewer-and-bracket that was used on the 1998 model. (I'm not sure what
they use now.) I don't think I want another RANS seat, although that's an
option. Maybe a Bachetta seat or something even more aero?

Any ideas?

As usual cut the "tail" to reply.

--Scott

It sounds like you have a few options, most involve taking the old seat
mount off and fitting it to a new seat, which could be a newish quality RANS
seat made through the year they went to the RAD-LOC. a Bacchetta seat with a
bracket graft. even a hardshell like the M5....

The general consensus is that hard-shell "Euro" seats do not work well
on recumbents with a fairly upright seating position such as the RANS
V-Rex.

One option for a hard-shell seat designed for a more upright position
is the Easy Racers "Cobra", which could likely be adapted to a RANS by
fabricating new seat mounts. These used to be (are?) available
reconditioned from Easy Racers (from trade-ins for "Cool Back" seats).

To get a hard-shell seat that really fits well, go to the beach and
form a "seat back" in the sand. Cover the formed sand with Plaster of
Paris to make a mold that can be used for composite lay-up. Trim and
mount after curing.

On the other hand, any competent frame builder or other person
experienced in welding thin-wall tubing should be able to repair the
existing seat.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

On Apr 3, 10:50 am, Freewheeling wrote:
Hi:

I have a 1998 V-Rex that's been significantly modified, with a
Bachetta-style handlebar riser and a R[oh]loff hub....

See Dick dismantle his Rohloff hub: http://tricolour.net/photos/2007/03/08/03-00-24i1.html
.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia

Gotbent, Perry, and Tom:

Thanks for all the great suggestions, folks! I'm thinking I'll probably
go the Bachetta seat route. I like Mark and Rich's design orientation,
and I've already got some of the Bachetta gear installed. Maybe they'll
give me a good deal on a seat, for old time sake. I'm also not too sure
what a "Rad-Loc" is, or whether it'd be useful to install the adapter on
my bike. As I recall, the Bachetta seat mount is a whole different
thing, designed to grab that bigger tube stock.

I've also had an operation recently, turning my ":" into a ";", if you
know what I mean. I've had some complications that aren't serious, but
just uncomfortable. In view of that I should probably wait until the
complications settle down and then do some riding to judge what seat
position and type works best for me.

--Scott

"Freewheeling" wrote in message
...
Gotbent, Perry, and Tom:

Thanks for all the great suggestions, folks! I'm thinking I'll probably
go the Bachetta seat route. I like Mark and Rich's design orientation,
and I've already got some of the Bachetta gear installed. Maybe they'll
give me a good deal on a seat, for old time sake. I'm also not too sure
what a "Rad-Loc" is, or whether it'd be useful to install the adapter on
my bike. As I recall, the Bachetta seat mount is a whole different thing,
designed to grab that bigger tube stock.

I've also had an operation recently, turning my ":" into a ";", if you
know what I mean. I've had some complications that aren't serious, but
just uncomfortable. In view of that I should probably wait until the
complications settle down and then do some riding to judge what seat
position and type works best for me.

--Scott

The Rad-loc is the latest (post 2002?) RANS seat mount. It is a band and
toggle clamp arrangement that requires a different seat rail (extruded or
machined shape, not bent sheet metal). The B clamp is designed to go around
the ovalized tube that B uses, not at all compatible with RANS. Also B uses
part of the seatbase as part of the clamp, consequently the seat base
deflects as you tighten their clamp and their seat slips too. If you root
around the homebuilders fora (like the one at www.recumbents.com) there are
probably some articles about transferring seat mounts between species. It's
just not rocket science, or even more than barely acceptable design
practice, or both companies would have seat mounts that don't rely on
friction to resist pedalling thrust reaction.

So some guys report recumbutt, but do I understand your problem as
recumnuts? Just keep wearing that suspensary and soak your nutsack in ice a
few times a day. After a while they stop looking like a grapefruit.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Apr 3, 11:52 am, "gotbent" wrote:
"Freewheeling" wrote in message

...



Hi:

I have a 1998 V-Rex that's been significantly modified, with a
Bachetta-style handlebar riser and a Rholoff hub. The RANS seat is
broken
on one side, and I've inserted and glued-in-place a wooden dowel to
keep
the thing on the road, but would like to replace the seat with
something
that's not broken. I guess the limiting thing is that goofy
skewer-and-bracket that was used on the 1998 model. (I'm not sure what
they use now.) I don't think I want another RANS seat, although that's
an
option. Maybe a Bachetta seat or something even more aero?

Any ideas?

As usual cut the "tail" to reply.

--Scott

It sounds like you have a few options, most involve taking the old seat
mount off and fitting it to a new seat, which could be a newish quality
RANS
seat made through the year they went to the RAD-LOC. a Bacchetta seat
with a
bracket graft. even a hardshell like the M5....

The general consensus is that hard-shell "Euro" seats do not work well
on recumbents with a fairly upright seating position such as the RANS
V-Rex.

Almost all SWB's will have a seat that you can adjust for the lay back.
Since the crank on all SWB's is fairly high to begin with, there is no such
thing as a "fairly upright seating positions" (except on that confounded
Lightning P-38). There are other reasons however to avoid a hard-shell seat
unless you have an iron butt.

One option for a hard-shell seat designed for a more upright position
is the Easy Racers "Cobra", which could likely be adapted to a RANS by
fabricating new seat mounts. These used to be (are?) available
reconditioned from Easy Racers (from trade-ins for "Cool Back" seats).

Never, I repeat never, even consider that g.d. Cobra seat. It is a butt
killer for sure. I can only last about 5 minutes on that seat no matter how
it is positioned.

To get a hard-shell seat that really fits well, go to the beach and
form a "seat back" in the sand. Cover the formed sand with Plaster of
Paris to make a mold that can be used for composite lay-up. Trim and
mount after curing.

The only reason to want a hard-shell seat is if you are into racing.
Otherwise it is a no-brain to avoid them like the plague.
[...]

Regards,

Ed Dolan the Great - Minnesota
aka
Saint Edward the Great - Order of the Perpetual Sorrows - Minnesota

On Apr 7, 8:27 pm, Mr. Ed Dolan the Grate wrote:
Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote

The general consensus is that hard-shell "Euro" seats do not work well
on recumbents with a fairly upright seating position such as the RANS
V-Rex.

Almost all SWB's will have a seat that you can adjust for the lay back.
Since the crank on all SWB's is fairly high to begin with, there is no such
thing as a "fairly upright seating positions" (except on that confounded
Lightning P-38). There are other reasons however to avoid a hard-shell seat
unless you have an iron butt....

E.D. reveals that he must not have ridden a bike with a typical
European hard-shell seat. These only work well if the rider is
reclined far enough back that a substantial portion of the rider's
weight is supported by his/her back - certainly not the case on a RANS
V-Rex, Rocket, any Lightning [1], or the 406-mm/559-mm wheel stick SWB
bikes.

I personally would not want to ride on one of these hard-shell seats
for any distance unless the seat back was 30° or less from the
horizontal.

[1] Except the Lowracer which is really a modified M5 Lowracer.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
GHAWAR IS DYING!

gotbent wrote:
"Freewheeling" wrote in message
...
Gotbent, Perry, and Tom:

Thanks for all the great suggestions, folks! I'm thinking I'll probably
go the Bachetta seat route. I like Mark and Rich's design orientation,
and I've already got some of the Bachetta gear installed. Maybe they'll
give me a good deal on a seat, for old time sake. I'm also not too sure
what a "Rad-Loc" is, or whether it'd be useful to install the adapter on
my bike. As I recall, the Bachetta seat mount is a whole different thing,
designed to grab that bigger tube stock.

I've also had an operation recently, turning my ":" into a ";", if you
know what I mean. I've had some complications that aren't serious, but
just uncomfortable. In view of that I should probably wait until the
complications settle down and then do some riding to judge what seat
position and type works best for me.

--Scott

The Rad-loc is the latest (post 2002?) RANS seat mount. It is a band and
toggle clamp arrangement that requires a different seat rail (extruded or
machined shape, not bent sheet metal). The B clamp is designed to go around
the ovalized tube that B uses, not at all compatible with RANS. Also B uses
part of the seatbase as part of the clamp, consequently the seat base
deflects as you tighten their clamp and their seat slips too. If you root
around the homebuilders fora (like the one at www.recumbents.com) there are
probably some articles about transferring seat mounts between species. It's
just not rocket science, or even more than barely acceptable design
practice, or both companies would have seat mounts that don't rely on
friction to resist pedalling thrust reaction.

So some guys report recumbutt, but do I understand your problem as
recumnuts? Just keep wearing that suspensary and soak your nutsack in ice a
few times a day. After a while they stop looking like a grapefruit.



Nope, that's not my problem. I had a colonectomy, which has caused some
inflammation and thrombosis "down south". In theory it'll go away
eventually. I guess I shouldn't have used the actual graphic
punctuation marks. Had I just said "turned my colon into a semicolon"
it might have been clearer. Thanks again for the advice.