DT Revolutions & Lacing pattern

I could use some input from all of you wheelbuilders out there.

I'm going to be building a set of wheels with DT Revolutions for the
first time. I've built two sets so far with Competitions. Is there
anything I should look out for with the Revs?

Also, I'll be building the rear 28-hole radial non-drive side and 3x
drive side. Is that a bad idea? Should it be the other way around?

I weigh in at 110 lbs.

Thanks.

jp who? writes:

I could use some input from all of you wheelbuilders out there.

I'm going to be building a set of wheels with DT Revolutions for the
first time. I've built two sets so far with Competitions. Is there
anything I should look out for with the Revs?

Also, I'll be building the rear 28-hole radial non-drive side and 3x
drive side. Is that a bad idea? Should it be the other way around?

Why bother with a mixed spoke pattern? What do you think that would
achieve that a symmetric pattern would not.

The greatest problem with these spokes will be twist that becomes
large enough to snap spokes when building a reasonably tight wheel.
This can be overcome with a sturdy truing stand, by pulling the rim at
the spoke to be adjusted toward that side, thus slackening that spoke.
I would stay away from revoltingly thin spokes.

Jobst Brandt

On 29 Jan 2007 09:30:48 -0800, "jp_nyc" wrote:

I could use some input from all of you wheelbuilders out there.

I'm going to be building a set of wheels with DT Revolutions for the
first time. I've built two sets so far with Competitions. Is there
anything I should look out for with the Revs?

Also, I'll be building the rear 28-hole radial non-drive side and 3x
drive side. Is that a bad idea? Should it be the other way around?

I weigh in at 110 lbs.

It's difficult to get 2.0/1.5 spokes to high tension w/o them
twisting. Radial lacing is very difficult.

I'd ok to use Revs on NDS, cross 2. I use 2.0/1.8 on drive side.
Twenty-eight front built cross 2 works out fine.

On Jan 29, 9:30 am, "jp_nyc" wrote:
I could use some input from all of you wheelbuilders out there.

I'm going to be building a set of wheels with DT Revolutions for the
first time. I've built two sets so far with Competitions. Is there
anything I should look out for with the Revs?

Also, I'll be building the rear 28-hole radial non-drive side and 3x
drive side. Is that a bad idea? Should it be the other way around?

I weigh in at 110 lbs.

Thanks.

Well, if ya gotta build with Revs in the rear...lace front 2 cross, 28
hole and just to match the rear, lace inside pulling or 'head out'.
Rear, for a properly buuilt wheel, radial left side does nada. lace 3
cross, and use head out or inside pulling so as to not overlap lots of
pulling spoke on the flange on the outside of the flange, big bend,
'possible' broken spokes.
Tension is tension, use lube and brass nipps.

AND make sure the rim is heavy enough to support thin spokes...kinda
approacing the '3 strikes and yer out' scenario. light rim, low spoke
count, thin spokes

I'm using Aeroheads (OC rear) with White Industries H1 hubs.

Hmm... consensus seems to be that I'm taking a big risk with radially
lacing Revolutions. The spokes were part of the package, so it'll be a
learning experience for me.

Thanks for all the input.

jp who? writes:

I'm using Aeroheads (OC rear) with White Industries H1 hubs.

Hmm... consensus seems to be that I'm taking a big risk with
radially lacing Revolutions. The spokes were part of the package, so
it'll be a learning experience for me.

Not at all. It's getting them tight that's the problem. However,
radial spoking was scrapped with John Staley's invention of cross
laced spoking with tied spoke crossings to prevent high wheelers from
doing an endo when a spoke broke. Today, with crossed and interleaved
spokes, no tying and soldering is required to keep a broken spoke from
thrashing around. Spoke failure makes a dull "crack" and the spoke
stays in place. With radial spoking the spoke will thrash about as
spokes did 100 years ago.

Jobst Brandt

jp_nyc Wrote:
...I'm going to be building a set of wheels with DT Revolutions for the
first time. I've built two sets so far with Competitions. Also, I'll be
building the rear 28-hole radial non-drive side and 3x
drive side. Is that a bad idea?

It might not be hugely beneficial, but i don't think it'd qualify as
bad either...

Last wheels I built was for a MTB(36H). I used DT Alpine III in 3X for
the drive side and DT Rev in radial, head out for the non-drive side.
Build was easy. I'd actually stuck small bits of tape on the spokes to
help me keep track of spoke wind-up, but it turned out to be a
non-issue. Haven't logged more than maybe 400 miles on them, so
long-term durability is still an open question.
Whether it actually *does* anything significant for durability or not I
don't know, but it sure helped to get the tension up in the non-drive
spokes. I used brass nipples on the drive side and aluminum nipples on
the other, more for the fun of it than out of any expectance of
noticeable performance gains.

Then I got a bit carried away in the spirit of experimentation and
laced the wheel in lateral cross as well. The nipple angle looks a bit
stressed, but with rims with eyelets it doesn't appear to cause an
immediate problem anyhow.

Front wheel was DT rev in full radial, heads in. Apart from a fairly
light wheel I don't know if there are any significant benefits, but so
far it hasn't been any problem either.


--
dabac

jp_nyc Wrote:
I could use some input from all of you wheelbuilders out there.

I'm going to be building a set of wheels with DT Revolutions for the
first time. I've built two sets so far with Competitions. Is there
anything I should look out for with the Revs?

Also, I'll be building the rear 28-hole radial non-drive side and 3x
drive side. Is that a bad idea? Should it be the other way around?

I weigh in at 110 lbs.

Thanks.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#half-radial
If you are not stuck with lengths for 3X, go with 2X.
Use good lubrication on threads and nipple seats.
Your technique(s) to reduce and remove wind-up is important.


--
daveornee

On Jan 30, 7:34 am, daveornee daveornee.2l8...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com wrote:
If you are not stuck with lengths for 3X, go with 2X.

Why do you recommend 2x on the drive side, Dave? Doesn't 3x give a
little better torque transfer with 28h?

On Jan 30, 11:23 am, "Ron Ruff" wrote:
On Jan 30, 7:34 am, daveornee daveornee.2l8...@no-

mx.forums.cyclingforums.com wrote:
If you are not stuck with lengths for 3X, go with 2X.Why do you recommend 2x on the drive side, Dave? Doesn't 3x give a
little better torque transfer with 28h?

2x is recommended for 28 spoke wheels because with 3x the crosses are
coming very close to the hub. Less room to work. Less room for the
spokes. Looks better.