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#51
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
Androcles wrote:
Chalo wrote: Androcles wrote: http://progress-energy.com/custservi...LightTestProje.... I don't understand what you are getting at by this. *White LED is a better quality light source than high-pressure sodium, but it is not categorically more power-efficient. *Low-pressure sodium lighting is more efficient yet, and even worse in light quality. To my knowledge, there is no form of high-pressure sodium lighting that can be carried on a bicycle, let alone powered by a pair of AA cells. *However much it may excel in terms of lumens per watt, it does not qualify as a bicycle light. Are you suggesting that bicycle lighting should be more predominantly yellow like street lighting? *Note that there are high efficiency, high flux amber LEDs that operate at full power with less than 3 volts to the emitter. *I have used amber Luxeon LEDs in combination with a larger number of white Luxeon LEDs for better color rendition in portable sign lighting. *I experimented with adding red LED light as well, but it did not help significantly for the signs I was illuminating. $70 a 25-year unit versus $485 a 15-year unit. As with any fixture, maintenance will still be required for wires, brackets, knockdowns, adjustments, periodic cleaning, animal damage, pole maintenance, and potentially earlier fixture replacement (12 - 15 years) vs. today's replacement cycle of 20-25 years. If you want to be seen by other road users, display a simple and cheap light for safety - any old LED will do although the law has a colour requirement, white front and red rear. If you want to illuminate the environment, whether by headlights or street lights, ya gotta pay. I'm happy for you to spend your money on bicycle lights - don't spend mine on street lights. Which makes a lumen-for-penny comparison of LEDs versus other light sources far more relevant than a watt-for-watt comparison. That's what I'm getting at. Just to be clear, are you aware that you're posting to rec.bicycles.tech, rec.bicycles.misc, and uk.rec.cycling? And are you aware that everybody else here is talking about on-bike lighting? Just curious. Chalo P.S.-- There's something wrong with your reply formatting. It's a hassle to clean it up for you. |
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#52
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
Chalo wrote:
Androcles wrote: Chalo wrote: Androcles wrote: http://progress-energy.com/custservi...LightTestProje... I don't understand what you are getting at by this. White LED is a better quality light source than high-pressure sodium, but it is not categorically more power-efficient. Low-pressure sodium lighting is more efficient yet, and even worse in light quality. To my knowledge, there is no form of high-pressure sodium lighting that can be carried on a bicycle, let alone powered by a pair of AA cells. However much it may excel in terms of lumens per watt, it does not qualify as a bicycle light. Are you suggesting that bicycle lighting should be more predominantly yellow like street lighting? Note that there are high efficiency, high flux amber LEDs that operate at full power with less than 3 volts to the emitter. I have used amber Luxeon LEDs in combination with a larger number of white Luxeon LEDs for better color rendition in portable sign lighting. I experimented with adding red LED light as well, but it did not help significantly for the signs I was illuminating. $70 a 25-year unit versus $485 a 15-year unit. As with any fixture, maintenance will still be required for wires, brackets, knockdowns, adjustments, periodic cleaning, animal damage, pole maintenance, and potentially earlier fixture replacement (12 - 15 years) vs. today's replacement cycle of 20-25 years. If you want to be seen by other road users, display a simple and cheap light for safety - any old LED will do although the law has a colour requirement, white front and red rear. If you want to illuminate the environment, whether by headlights or street lights, ya gotta pay. I'm happy for you to spend your money on bicycle lights - don't spend mine on street lights. Which makes a lumen-for-penny comparison of LEDs versus other light sources far more relevant than a watt-for-watt comparison. That's what I'm getting at. Just to be clear, are you aware that you're posting to rec.bicycles.tech, rec.bicycles.misc, and uk.rec.cycling? And are you aware that everybody else here is talking about on-bike lighting? Just curious. Indeed. And those of us with hub dynamos are limited to 3W for our lights, so lumens per watt is by FAR the most important criterion. Lumens per dollar is also important, but many night cyclists are willing to spend whatever it takes to be able to see well at night. Generally, with a hub dynamo, LEDs are really the only sensible choice, although if you're willing to lug a battery pack that opens up other options. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#53
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
Androcles WHO? ANONYMOUSLY SNIPES:
"Marc" wrote in message ... [...] Not very well. You can **** off too, one line responses are most uninteresting, three word responses even more so. *plonk* [...] Hey, can I get kill-filed too? -- Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007 I am a vehicular cyclist. |
#54
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
"Tom Sherman °_°" wrote in message ... Androcles WHO? ANONYMOUSLY SNIPES: "Marc" wrote in message ... [...] Not very well. You can **** off too, one line responses are most uninteresting, three word responses even more so. *plonk* [...] Hey, can I get kill-filed too? Yes. No problem. *plonk* Do not reply to this generic message, it was automatically generated; you have been kill-filed, either for being boringly stupid, repetitive, unfunny, ineducable, repeatedly posting politics, religion or off-topic subjects to a sci. newsgroup, attempting cheapskate free advertising for profit, because you are a troll, because you responded to George Hammond the complete fruit cake, simply insane or any combination or permutation of the aforementioned reasons; any reply will go unread. Boringly stupid is the most common cause of kill-filing, but because this message is generic the other reasons have been included. You are left to decide which is most applicable to you. There is no appeal, I have despotic power over whom I will electronically admit into my home and you do not qualify as a reasonable person I would wish to converse with or even poke fun at. Some weirdoes are not kill- filed, they amuse me and I retain them for their entertainment value as I would any chicken with two heads, either one of which enables the dumb bird to scratch dirt, step back, look down, step forward to the same spot and repeat the process eternally. This should not trouble you, many of those plonked find it a blessing that they are not required to think and can persist in their bigotry or crackpot theories without challenge. You have the right to free speech, I have the right not to listen. The kill-file will be cleared annually with spring cleaning or whenever I purchase a new computer or hard drive. I'm fully aware that you may be so stupid as to reply, but the purpose of this message is to encourage others to kill-file ****wits like you. I hope you find this explanation is satisfactory but even if you don't, damnly my frank, I don't give a dear. Have a nice day and **** off. |
#55
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
On Dec 7, 6:55*pm, "Androcles" wrote:
"Tom Sherman °_°" wrote : Hey, can I get kill-filed too? Yes. No problem. *plonk* Don't believe him, Tom. His supposed plonks are just a way to discourage rebuttals he can't answer. He still reads your posts, and sometimes can't stop himself from responding. I don't mind him reading, but the responses are as dumb and annoying as a six-year-old at the symphony. Bears more than a trace of jutishness, I'd say. - Frank Krygowski |
#56
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
Nate Nagel wrote:
Indeed. And those of us with hub dynamos are limited to 3W for our lights, so lumens per watt is by FAR the most important criterion. Lumens per dollar is also important, but many night cyclists are willing to spend whatever it takes to be able to see well at night. Generally, with a hub dynamo, LEDs are really the only sensible choice, although if you're willing to lug a battery pack that opens up other options. The efficiency of LED's means you don't need much of a battery pack, and continuing developments in battery technologies means that pack is light and cheap and durable. At this point LED's have pretty much killed off the "other options". |
#57
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
In rec.bicycles.misc Nate Nagel wrote:
And those of us with hub dynamos are limited to 3W for our lights, Actually not. The hub dynamo will happily deliver more than that, given sufficient speed and suitable lights, e.g. two LED headlights in series. Generally, with a hub dynamo, LEDs are really the only sensible choice, Yes. Then you see the first high end cars on the market with pure LED frontlights...LED will take over. -- MfG/Best regards helmut springer panta rhei |
#58
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
On Dec 8, 5:02*am, Andreas Oehler wrote:
Mon, 07 Dec 2009 17:04:36 -0500, Nate Nagel: And those of us with hub dynamos are limited to 3W for our lights, No. Have you measured the power uptake of current LED-lights for hub dynamos? Have you tried two LED-headlights connected in series? Not yet, but I may. I do have a Shimano hub dynamo and an IQ Cyo on one of my bikes, but have never gone so far as to hook up an ammeter while riding (although that is exactly the sort of thing that I would do, mind you) little bugger was so expensive that hooking up *two* of them is not really an option at this point... Up to 8 Watt are no problem to get from a hub dynamo at higher speed. so lumens per watt is by FAR the most important criterion. In any case. Efficiency is the key figure on every aspect on a bicycle. Sure, but it is less of one (although still important) in some of the stationary apps that were also being discussed. nate |
#59
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
Androcles wrote:
Listen up, dim bulb, if you want to illuminate asphalt then use more candlepower, it's that ****in' simple. Not sure what your problem is but there must be more to it than that. I just swapped out my 2.4/3W halogen B&M headlight for a new LED type that I believe is a mere 1W. The LED is superior in several ways: -- It comes to full brightness at a couple mph. The halogen didn't get fired up until perhaps 5 mph. This is a generator driven light system. -- The light provided is much better for my on road commuting. The lense shapes the light into a nice bright long rectangle in front of me making an excellently lighted focused area in front of me. -- The halogen bulbs burned out fairly soon. I believe the Philips bulb is only good for about 100 hours of burn time. The new LED is alleged to be good for 100,000 hours, so I shouldn't have to replace bulbs in the dark on the road again. Peter White (http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dymotec.asp) knows a lot about lighting and says the following: quote In the past few years, significant advances have been made in LED headlights. The newest designs are significantly brighter than older LED lights, and even brighter than the best 6 volt halogen systems. In fact, some are even brighter than the 12 volt Lumotec Oval Plus 12 made for the Dymotec 12. So why would anyone buy the Dymotec S12? The light from an LED has a slight blue tint to it. Side by side with a halogen beam, the halogen beam looks more yellow. And for many cyclists, particularly some of us old gezers, the yellowish beam is more useful. We can see more detail than we can with the bluish tinted light from the LED. /quote So perhaps from a light wavelength point of view rather than brightness, old halogens offer better detail than the "colder" LEDs, but my personal experience with my new LED is that it is much superior to my older halogen one. SMH |
#60
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"white" LED's vs. incandescent and halogen lights
On Dec 9, 6:45*am, smharding wrote:
I just swapped out my 2.4/3W halogen B&M headlight for a new LED type that I believe is a mere 1W. *The LED is superior in several ways: * *-- It comes to full brightness at a couple mph. *The halogen * * * didn't get fired up until perhaps 5 mph. *This is a generator * * * driven light system. * *-- The light provided is much better for my on road commuting. * * * The lense shapes the light into a nice bright long rectangle * * * in front of me making an excellently lighted focused area in * * * front of me. * *-- The halogen bulbs burned out fairly soon. *I believe the Philips * * * bulb is only good for about 100 hours of burn time. *The new LED * * * is alleged to be good for 100,000 hours, so I shouldn't have to * * * replace bulbs in the dark on the road again. So what LED headlight did you get? - Frank Krygowski |
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