Changing chain rings

I would like to change my chain rings to a larger size. Currently, I have
48t, 36t, 26t triple set. I would like to change them to 53t, 43, 36
approximately. I'm looking for higher gears. This bicycle is a Cannondale
tandem, and my stoker and I often run out of gears on the high end.

what is the suggested number of chain links to add based upon the upgrade?

TIA

JONS

news news wrote:
I would like to change my chain rings to a larger size. Currently, I have
48t, 36t, 26t triple set. I would like to change them to 53t, 43, 36
approximately. I'm looking for higher gears. This bicycle is a Cannondale
tandem, and my stoker and I often run out of gears on the high end.

what is the suggested number of chain links to add based upon the upgrade?

TIA

JONS

Chains are real cheap. Why take chances adding new links to an old
chain. Chances being you do not get the little pins pushed in exactly
perfectly and cause a failure at the connection and the new chain/old
chain will cause skipping on the old cassette you are using. Nashbar
is selling a 9 speed recumbent chain (232 links) for $15. The 8 speed
version is even cheaper. That is two chains, $7.50 each. Cheap.

As for how long to make the new chain, just put it on the new big
chainring and around the biggest cassette cog, through the derailleur,
and pull the chain as tight as possible so the rear derailleur is about
as straight towards the crankset as possible. About that long or a
link longer.

news news wrote:
I would like to change my chain rings to a larger size. Currently, I have
48t, 36t, 26t triple set. I would like to change them to 53t, 43, 36
approximately. I'm looking for higher gears. This bicycle is a Cannondale
tandem, and my stoker and I often run out of gears on the high end.

what is the suggested number of chain links to add based upon the upgrade?

TIA

JONS

one thing about this is that since chainrings are pricey, you should
probably just replace the chain as well unless it's pretty close to
new. a worn chain will (somewhat) quickly wear rings and cogs down to
its own state of wear. unfortunately, the same argument can be made for
replacing the cassette if it's worn very much, as worn cassettes also
wear down new chains somewhat quickly, which in turn will start wearing
the rings. kind of a mess, huh? if the bike gets ridden a lot, then all
this will have a chance to come into play, however.

something i'm not sure about is how well it's going to work to have a
110/74 crank sporting a 53 on a tandem. 110s with larger rings can be
pretty flexy on some singles i've met.

On 25 Feb 2006 11:36:47 -0800, wrote:

As for how long to make the new chain, just put it on the new big
chainring and around the biggest cassette cog, through the derailleur,
and pull the chain as tight as possible so the rear derailleur is about
as straight towards the crankset as possible. About that long or a
link longer.

Not "about that long", but a full link longer. Remember that the chain
needs enough slack to climb over the teeth of the largest cog or ring
without damaging the rear derailleur. See:

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain


jeverett3ATearthlinkDOTnet http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

John Everett wrote:
On 25 Feb 2006 11:36:47 -0800, wrote:

As for how long to make the new chain, just put it on the new big
chainring and around the biggest cassette cog, through the derailleur,
and pull the chain as tight as possible so the rear derailleur is about
as straight towards the crankset as possible. About that long or a
link longer.

Not "about that long", but a full link longer.

No. You did not read what I wrote. If you actually thread the chain
through the derailleurs and around the chainrings and pull it together,
you will have the actual length. Period. If you add 1 full link extra
as you suggest, you will be too long.

Remember that the chain
needs enough slack to climb over the teeth of the largest cog or ring
without damaging the rear derailleur. See:

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain

Don't follow Mr. Brown's suggestions. I have never understood why
someone would recommend determining chain length by proxy instead of
just putting the chain through the rear derailleur and around both
rings and determining it directly. Maybe in a bike shop saving a
minute is important. I like how Mr. Brown ends his paragraph with "In
almost all cases, this will give the optimum length." Almost all
cases? Why not just thread the chain on as it will be used on the bike
and determine it correctly in all cases?





jeverett3ATearthlinkDOTnet http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

On 27 Feb 2006 15:45:11 -0800, wrote:


John Everett wrote:
On 25 Feb 2006 11:36:47 -0800, wrote:

As for how long to make the new chain, just put it on the new big
chainring and around the biggest cassette cog, through the derailleur,
and pull the chain as tight as possible so the rear derailleur is about
as straight towards the crankset as possible. About that long or a
link longer.

Not "about that long", but a full link longer.

No. You did not read what I wrote. If you actually thread the chain
through the derailleurs and around the chainrings and pull it together,
you will have the actual length. Period. If you add 1 full link extra
as you suggest, you will be too long.

Actually I did read what you wrote. I'm sure there are cases where
doing it your way could result in a chain that's just long enough to
be connected but will damage the rear derailleur as the chain climbs
over the teeth on the first shift onto the large/large combination.


jeverett3ATearthlinkDOTnet http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3

Dans le message de ,
John Everett a réfléchi, et puis a
déclaré :
On 27 Feb 2006 15:45:11 -0800, wrote:


John Everett wrote:
On 25 Feb 2006 11:36:47 -0800, wrote:

As for how long to make the new chain, just put it on the new big
chainring and around the biggest cassette cog, through the
derailleur, and pull the chain as tight as possible so the rear
derailleur is about as straight towards the crankset as possible.
About that long or a link longer.

Not "about that long", but a full link longer.

No. You did not read what I wrote. If you actually thread the chain
through the derailleurs and around the chainrings and pull it
together, you will have the actual length. Period. If you add 1
full link extra as you suggest, you will be too long.

Actually I did read what you wrote. I'm sure there are cases where
doing it your way could result in a chain that's just long enough to
be connected but will damage the rear derailleur as the chain climbs
over the teeth on the first shift onto the large/large combination.

You have but a single chainring ?
--
Bonne route !

Sandy
Verneuil-sur-Seine FR

news news wrote:
I would like to change my chain rings to a larger size. Currently, I have
48t, 36t, 26t triple set. I would like to change them to 53t, 43, 36
approximately. I'm looking for higher gears. This bicycle is a Cannondale
tandem, and my stoker and I often run out of gears on the high end.

what is the suggested number of chain links to add based upon the upgrade?

TIA

JONS

GO TO A BIKE shop that deals with TA rings-
Probably one to 2 links to add.

Nate Knutson wrote:
---snip---
something i'm not sure about is how well it's going to work to have a
110/74 crank sporting a 53 on a tandem. 110s with larger rings can be
pretty flexy on some singles i've met.
---/snip---

I imagine this depends upon the rings. Ritchey's old, yet highly
regarded, road logics used this setup for a good long while (prior to
the current design).

SYJ

On 28 Feb 2006 16:46:10 -0800, "SYJ" wrote:


I imagine this depends upon the rings. Ritchey's old, yet highly
regarded, road logics used this setup for a good long while (prior to
the current design).

Specialized tandem cranksets were 110 x 74 bolt pattern and used
54/44/32 rings. The cranks, like the Ritcheys, were made by Sugino.