Bike 2 ....

Roger Zoul wrote:
... will be a recumbent.....

Most likely, either a RANSs Stratus XP or a V2 Formula. I'd be on the XP
for about 2 hours. I plan to ride the V2 Formula this weekend.

A pre-emptive welcome to the Church of RANS.

I'm posting this because I'm a little concerned about any unforeseen details
that I might need to worry about ahead of time. I'm already looking into
some kind of rack system for my Camry.

With just the front wheel removed, the bike will only be a little
longer than the width of your Camry at the mirrors, so sideways on a
rear rack should work (I have done this quite a few times with a
slightly shorter RANS Tailwind). Otherwise, an upright tandem roof rack
will likely work. I suggest removing the seat for transport in either
case to key it dry and squashed bug free.

I'm also wondering about a suitable
cycle computer. I'd like to try to add a second bike system for my Polar
720i, though. Anybody done this? First bike is a DF and bike 2 will be a
LWB recumbent. I hope the distances will allow the wireless links to work.

Typically, you will need an "upright rear wheel" length sensor wire to
reach from the fork to the handlebars. General experience indicates
that wireless computers will NOT work unless one mounts the receiver
low on the steering riser (or possibly on the derailer mast).

I expect climbing to be painful, at first anyway. But climbing is always
painful for me!

Consider having the dealer replace the 30T granny ring with a 26T or
24T ring, as you do not have the option of standing and "honking" if
your low gear ends up being to high to maintain normal cadence.

I worry about starting on inclines. I worry about stopping on inclines.

The proper starting technique involves being in a reasonably low gear
with on foot clipped in and the pedal near 12 o'clock. Lock the rear
wheel with the brake; push as hard as you can on the pedal, then
release the brake.

I actually find starting out easier on a recumbent than an upright.

--
Tom Sherman - Here, not there.

Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote:
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
::: ... will be a recumbent.....
:::
::: Most likely, either a RANSs Stratus XP or a V2 Formula. I'd be on
::: the XP for about 2 hours. I plan to ride the V2 Formula this
::: weekend.
::
:: A pre-emptive welcome to the Church of RANS.

Thanks.

::
::: I'm posting this because I'm a little concerned about any
::: unforeseen details that I might need to worry about ahead of time.
::: I'm already looking into some kind of rack system for my Camry.
::
:: With just the front wheel removed, the bike will only be a little
:: longer than the width of your Camry at the mirrors, so sideways on a
:: rear rack should work (I have done this quite a few times with a
:: slightly shorter RANS Tailwind). Otherwise, an upright tandem roof
:: rack will likely work. I suggest removing the seat for transport in
:: either case to key it dry and squashed bug free.

I have a rear rack.....I was thinking about adding a 1 1/4inch trailer
hitch, though. I guess I'll see if I can get it on my existing rear rack
before purchase. The dealer has devised a way to put it on a rack that fits
into a trailer hitch, the front tire would come off on the fork would fit
into a fork bar (or whatever that little thing is called). All of that will
end up being over $300, so if I could use my existing rack and be very
happy. I've seen some guys on the RANS site showing bike supported on a
typical rear rack at an odd angle due to funny top tube.

::
::: I'm also wondering about a suitable
::: cycle computer. I'd like to try to add a second bike system for my
::: Polar 720i, though. Anybody done this? First bike is a DF and
::: bike 2 will be a LWB recumbent. I hope the distances will allow
::: the wireless links to work.
::
:: Typically, you will need an "upright rear wheel" length sensor wire
:: to reach from the fork to the handlebars. General experience
:: indicates that wireless computers will NOT work unless one mounts
:: the receiver low on the steering riser (or possibly on the derailer
:: mast).

Good info. Thanks.

::
::: I expect climbing to be painful, at first anyway. But climbing is
::: always painful for me!
::
:: Consider having the dealer replace the 30T granny ring with a 26T or
:: 24T ring, as you do not have the option of standing and "honking" if
:: your low gear ends up being to high to maintain normal cadence.

Yeah! That no standing ever thing is a bit odd, too.

::
::: I worry about starting on inclines. I worry about stopping on
::: inclines.
::
:: The proper starting technique involves being in a reasonably low gear
:: with on foot clipped in and the pedal near 12 o'clock. Lock the rear
:: wheel with the brake; push as hard as you can on the pedal, then
:: release the brake.
::

Interesting. I never thought to lock the rear wheel brake....

:: I actually find starting out easier on a recumbent than an upright.

Well, I'm very inexperience right now on the recumbent...that may very well
be the case down the road.
I'm wondering if I could do a flat century on this thing without any
practice. Ought to be doable, right? I wouldn't attempt a hilly century
until I learned how it is to do some climbing on local hills.

Future recumbent bicycle rider Roger Zoul wrote:
...
I'm wondering if I could do a flat century on this thing [RANS LWB] without any
practice. Ought to be doable, right? I wouldn't attempt a hilly century
until I learned how it is to do some climbing on local hills.

Can you do a century on an upright without being physically exhausted
at the end? If so, my opinion is yes, as long as you discipline
yourself not to push to hard. Resist the temptation to race the
uprights uphill, but coast by them downhill.

The recumbent will use your muscles somewhat differently than an
upright, which is the reason for the caution of not pushing to hard.
Keeping the bike in a low enough gear to spin easily will help, which
is why I recommend a smaller than stock granny ring [1]. You may feel
some discomfort in your buttocks, which is not from sitting on the seat
as much as the different muscle use. This is colloquially known as
"recumbent butt" - it generally decreases as one acclimates to the
recumbent position and is a much milder discomfort than the saddle pain
that occurs when a newbie upright rider spends too long on the bike.

The RANS LWB bikes may have slightly awkward handling at low speeds for
the beginner, so allow some distance from other bicycles. However, the
high speed handling is stable and generally confidence inspiring.

If there is a chance of rain, fenders are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, as the
front wheel spray will be directly in your face and the rear wheel
spray will soak the seat foam. Similarly, a plastic grocery store bag
is a handy item to cover the seat base if the bike will be left in the
rain (e.g. rest stop).

Most importantly, don't let the upright riders see how much fun you are
having.

[1] RANS is located in the flats of Kansas, and tends to over-gear
their bikes for the "non-hammerhead" rider.
[2] I did a metric century in the rain on a RANS Wave back in the last
millennium when fenders were not readily available.

--
Tom Sherman - Here, not there.

Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote:
:: Future recumbent bicycle rider Roger Zoul wrote:
::: ...
::: I'm wondering if I could do a flat century on this thing [RANS LWB]
::: without any practice. Ought to be doable, right? I wouldn't
::: attempt a hilly century until I learned how it is to do some
::: climbing on local hills.
::
:: Can you do a century on an upright without being physically exhausted
:: at the end? If so, my opinion is yes, as long as you discipline
:: yourself not to push to hard. Resist the temptation to race the
:: uprights uphill, but coast by them downhill.

Bingo....this will be a flat century in Charleston. Only problem is that I
may not have the bike by then!

::
:: The recumbent will use your muscles somewhat differently than an
:: upright, which is the reason for the caution of not pushing to hard.
:: Keeping the bike in a low enough gear to spin easily will help, which
:: is why I recommend a smaller than stock granny ring [1]. You may feel
:: some discomfort in your buttocks, which is not from sitting on the
:: seat as much as the different muscle use. This is colloquially known
:: as "recumbent butt" - it generally decreases as one acclimates to the
:: recumbent position and is a much milder discomfort than the saddle
:: pain that occurs when a newbie upright rider spends too long on the
:: bike.
::
:: The RANS LWB bikes may have slightly awkward handling at low speeds
:: for the beginner, so allow some distance from other bicycles.
:: However, the high speed handling is stable and generally confidence
:: inspiring.

I noticed exactly this. Turning in a small-radius circle at slow speed was
quite challenging. Frankly, I still don't think I could count on doing it.
I'm only had about 2 hours on it. But I'll ride it again this weekend. The
model at the bike shop is not quite long enough for me. I'm going to get the
XL size frame - they just have the standarding and I had to ride with the
seat all the way back.

I hit a few bumps while riding it. It was interesting to feel my butt coming
up off the seat. I rode this bike around a big parking lot for nearly two
hours. It was amazingly fun. The acceleration going download, though brief,
was a rush too. The bike felt incredibly stable too.

One thing I wonder about re a century - the hand positions are a lot fewer
on this bike. Of course, you're not resting your weight on your hands, but
you're basically in "chopper" positions and it *seems* as if it would be
tiring after the miles start to build up.

::
:: If there is a chance of rain, fenders are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, as the
:: front wheel spray will be directly in your face and the rear wheel
:: spray will soak the seat foam. Similarly, a plastic grocery store bag
:: is a handy item to cover the seat base if the bike will be left in
:: the rain (e.g. rest stop).

Yeah, there's very like a chance of rain. Are those fenders easy on / off
affairs? I don't ride my regular bike in the rain, after having been caught
out enough times, the clean up just makes it not fun. I don't attend
cycling events if it's raining anymore either. This is an out-of-town event
so if I drive all the way there, I'd want to ride come rain or shine.

::
:: Most importantly, don't let the upright riders see how much fun you
:: are having.
::
:: [1] RANS is located in the flats of Kansas, and tends to over-gear
:: their bikes for the "non-hammerhead" rider.

What does that mean? They over-gear so those who don't like to pedal fast
can move fast?

:: [2] I did a metric century in the rain on a RANS Wave back in the
:: last millennium when fenders were not readily available.

Yuck!

Thanks for the help!

Roger Zoul wrote:
Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote:
:: Future recumbent bicycle rider Roger Zoul wrote:
::: ...
::: I'm wondering if I could do a flat century on this thing [RANS LWB]
::: without any practice. Ought to be doable, right? I wouldn't
::: attempt a hilly century until I learned how it is to do some
::: climbing on local hills.
::
:: Can you do a century on an upright without being physically exhausted
:: at the end? If so, my opinion is yes, as long as you discipline
:: yourself not to push to hard. Resist the temptation to race the
:: uprights uphill, but coast by them downhill.

Bingo....this will be a flat century in Charleston. Only problem is that I
may not have the bike by then!

::
:: The recumbent will use your muscles somewhat differently than an
:: upright, which is the reason for the caution of not pushing to hard.
:: Keeping the bike in a low enough gear to spin easily will help, which
:: is why I recommend a smaller than stock granny ring [1]. You may feel
:: some discomfort in your buttocks, which is not from sitting on the
:: seat as much as the different muscle use. This is colloquially known
:: as "recumbent butt" - it generally decreases as one acclimates to the
:: recumbent position and is a much milder discomfort than the saddle
:: pain that occurs when a newbie upright rider spends too long on the
:: bike.
::
:: The RANS LWB bikes may have slightly awkward handling at low speeds
:: for the beginner, so allow some distance from other bicycles.
:: However, the high speed handling is stable and generally confidence
:: inspiring.

I noticed exactly this. Turning in a small-radius circle at slow speed was
quite challenging. Frankly, I still don't think I could count on doing it.
I'm only had about 2 hours on it. But I'll ride it again this weekend. The
model at the bike shop is not quite long enough for me. I'm going to get the
XL size frame - they just have the standarding and I had to ride with the
seat all the way back.

For some odd reason I am much more comfortable turning sharply to the
left than the right [1] - this is true for several different bikes.

The handling will likely be better for you with the improved weight
distribution the larger frame size will provide.

I hit a few bumps while riding it. It was interesting to feel my butt coming
up off the seat. I rode this bike around a big parking lot for nearly two
hours. It was amazingly fun. The acceleration going download, though brief,
was a rush too. The bike felt incredibly stable too.

If you see a bump ahead, you can push with both feet to raise yourself
off the seat base (as long as your clothing does not grip the seatback
too much [2]. This greatly reduces the shock you will feel.

One thing I wonder about re a century - the hand positions are a lot fewer
on this bike. Of course, you're not resting your weight on your hands, but
you're basically in "chopper" positions and it *seems* as if it would be
tiring after the miles start to build up.

I have never had an issue with hand or wrist discomfort on rides as
long as 7 hours in a day. The effort involved is similar to driving a
motor vehicle with power steering.

::
:: If there is a chance of rain, fenders are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, as the
:: front wheel spray will be directly in your face and the rear wheel
:: spray will soak the seat foam. Similarly, a plastic grocery store bag
:: is a handy item to cover the seat base if the bike will be left in
:: the rain (e.g. rest stop).

Yeah, there's very like a chance of rain. Are those fenders easy on / off
affairs? I don't ride my regular bike in the rain, after having been caught
out enough times, the clean up just makes it not fun. I don't attend
cycling events if it's raining anymore either. This is an out-of-town event
so if I drive all the way there, I'd want to ride come rain or shine.

I am not aware of quick release fenders that fit RANS LWB, but I have
not looked for such items. My opinion is that the weight and drag of
fenders is minimal, and they do a lot to keep both the rider and
bicycle clean.

::
:: Most importantly, don't let the upright riders see how much fun you
:: are having.
::
:: [1] RANS is located in the flats of Kansas, and tends to over-gear
:: their bikes for the "non-hammerhead" rider.

What does that mean? They over-gear so those who don't like to pedal fast
can move fast?

The gearing RANS put on their bikes is suitable for a strong rider that
likes to push hard (i.e. a "hammerhead") who can keep up a reasonable
cadence when climbing. For newer, less strong and loading touring
riders, the overall gearing is too high.

:: [2] I did a metric century in the rain on a RANS Wave back in the
:: last millennium when fenders were not readily available.

Yuck!

Thanks for the help!

You are welcome.

[1] This is NOT a political comment!
[2] Fleece tends to snag in the seat mesh.

--
Tom Sherman - Here, not there.

Roger Zoul wrote:

I have a rear rack.....I was thinking about adding a 1 1/4inch trailer
hitch, though. I guess I'll see if I can get it on my existing rear rack
before purchase. The dealer has devised a way to put it on a rack that fits
into a trailer hitch, the front tire would come off on the fork would fit
into a fork bar (or whatever that little thing is called). All of that will
end up being over $300, so if I could use my existing rack and be very
happy. I've seen some guys on the RANS site showing bike supported on a
typical rear rack at an odd angle due to funny top tube....

Another idea on carrying a LWB bike on a rack, since the chain is
usually dirty and may flop around in directions it would not in normal
riding.

Cut thin-wall PVC tubing (available at hardware stores) to the
appropriate length and slit lengthwise. The tubing can be pushed over
the chain and stays in place by itself, reducing "chain tattoos" and
the possibility of damaging the bike's finish.

--
Tom Sherman - Here, not there.

Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman wrote:
:: Roger Zoul wrote:
:::
::: I have a rear rack.....I was thinking about adding a 1 1/4inch
::: trailer hitch, though. I guess I'll see if I can get it on my
::: existing rear rack before purchase. The dealer has devised a way
::: to put it on a rack that fits into a trailer hitch, the front tire
::: would come off on the fork would fit into a fork bar (or whatever
::: that little thing is called). All of that will end up being over
::: $300, so if I could use my existing rack and be very happy. I've
::: seen some guys on the RANS site showing bike supported on a typical
::: rear rack at an odd angle due to funny top tube....
::
:: Another idea on carrying a LWB bike on a rack, since the chain is
:: usually dirty and may flop around in directions it would not in
:: normal riding.
::
:: Cut thin-wall PVC tubing (available at hardware stores) to the
:: appropriate length and slit lengthwise. The tubing can be pushed over
:: the chain and stays in place by itself, reducing "chain tattoos" and
:: the possibility of damaging the bike's finish.

Thanks. That's definitely a "keeper"! Gotta keep that toy looking good!

..