Flexy KH saddle. Not it's fault.

Putting a washer or two under each acorn nut is a better solution to
that problem.


--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

Ya well whatever Johnie. Next time I have a uni question, I'll post it
personally to you oh smart one.


--
loafr
------------------------------------------------------------------------
loafr's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3987
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

I noticed the same thing on my KH seat. I'm even less clever than loafr,
as I left bits of cap on the nuts until one of them cut my finger, then
I took all the caps off.


--
cjd - who dat?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
cjd's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3965
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

I disagree. Maybe that helped in your case, but I am certain that the
reason for the flexiness in the first production of KH saddles is due to
either a cost or weight saving flaw in the design, or something that was
overlooked. There is a metal seatpost bracket thing which attaches
underneath the seat, cutting sharply into the plastic base. There are
plastic ridges from a bit past where the metal and plastic meet, running
forwards to where the handle is. The force of the handle pulling upwards
flexes the plastic, and the edge where it meets the seatpost bracket
acts like a fulcrum, multiplying the forces into one spot. The plastic
ridges do not strengthen the part which needs it, so a metal plate or
something stronger is needed. My seat broke and it did not have covers
on the nuts, and they were securely fastened. If you can feel any flex,
make sure the bolts are tight, but do not keep testing how flexy it is
because it will weaken the seat until it will eventually snap like mine
did. I wonder when the newer models will start being sold, and if people
with faulty originals will get a discounted replacement.


--
Rowan - •·.·´¯`·.·•
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rowan's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3772
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

john_childs wrote:
*Putting a washer or two under each acorn nut is a better solution to
that problem. *


... and use lock-tite. The original acorn nuts are lock nuts; adding
washers will take care of the clearance problem, but cancel out the
locking effect (which I assume is there for a reason). Therefore, I
suggest using locktite if adding washers.

Another solution (particularly if one has already broken the top off the
acorn nuts) is to simply buy 4 more acorn nuts (6mm) and put them over
the exposed ends of the studs.

Comment/Question: It seems to me that one should be careful not to
tighten these nuts more than needed, as it would simply damage/weaken
the plastic in which the studs are mounted. Anyone know more about this
than I do?

duaner.


--
duaner - -
------------------------------------------------------------------------
duaner's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4297
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

loafr wrote:
*Ya well whatever Johnie. Next time I have a uni question, I'll post
it personally to you oh smart one. *


HEY!
jc has posted techy-type info that have helped plenty unicyclists look
after their machines
u dont have to take his advice but u dont have to be nasty either




--
GILD - Waffle-tosser

The only difference between me and a madman is that i'm not mad.
Pablo Picasso

'this will only take a minute...(fixed)'
(http://www.burmacampaign.org.uk/actions/un.htm)

JUST SAY 'KNOW'!

Namaste!
Dave
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GILD's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/657
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

loafr wrote:
*Ya well whatever Johnie. Next time I have a uni question, I'll post
it personally to you oh smart one. *

The comment wasn't meant to dis you or be critical. It was just a
simple comment that a few washers will let you tighten down the acorn
nuts without busting the cap off.

It's not just the KH seat that needs a washer or two under the cap nuts.
Miyata seats can need washers, Semcycle seats can need washers, and
probably most any unicycle seat could do with a washer or two under the
acorn nuts.

Acorn nuts are a good thing because they cover the threads so you don't
injure your fingers when grabbing the seat. If you break the caps off
of the acorn nuts then you create some finger hazards under the seat.


--
john_childs - Guinness Mojo

john_childs (at) hotmail (dot) com
------------------------------------------------------------------------
john_childs's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/449
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

the caps don't stop anything. if you tighten it down to where it
touches the cap, they simply pop open. I hate those caps and tighten
all my nuts to cap-popping


I apologize ahead of time loafr, for responding to your post. It seems
to be a no-no


--
Sofa - Pedals Schmedals

'London Unicycling Club' (http://londonunicyclingclub.ca)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sofa's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/706
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630

Klaas Bil wrote:[color=blue]
*On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 00:19:22 -0500, duaner
wrote:

.. and use lock-tite.

Or use locking washers?

*


I don't think typical split-ring lock-washers would (consistently) lock
well against the slot shaped hole in the mounting bracket. And the
lock-washers might deform badly on (re) tightening.


--
duaner - -
------------------------------------------------------------------------
duaner's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4297
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/27630