Assembly of Di2

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 7:32:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 2:07:29 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 8:52:26 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 10:11:09 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 6:36:58 PM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

I had the local top shop remove the stuck screw on the brake cable exit bracket. It turns out that aluminum piece is directly in line for the dripping sweat from a climber. The sweat from the previous owner caused corrosion which stuck the stainless screw in. I found a new one and the screw at the local Trek store and installed them with a good layer of Campy Grease coating everything. But I also ordered some Torx head replacement screws so that is highly unlikely to be unable to be removed again.

The wheels came in an Trek also makes a plastic rim liner for tubeless tires. You have to buy the correct size for your wheel and Trek showing a bit of Nationalism, calls a 700c wheels a 29" wheel. But they do have the proper size for most rims. Though Trek wheels probably are made for disk rims these days which are a bit wider than others. Trick for installation - ALWAYS start the rim strip by installing the tubeless valve tightly in place. If you do not and the valve hole isn't perfectly aligned it is hell to realign (experience of the Trek mechanic).

While I'm using 55 mm deep aero rims I have come to the conclusion that aluminum rims are probably better overall. I put a set of Campy Sciroccos on one of my bikes and there appears to be absolutely no difference in top speed or acceleration though the wheelsets are 500 grams different in weight. And aluminum rims have much better braking.

Installing the brake cable through the top tube I pushed it in from the front plug until I felt it stop. Looked inside with a bright miniature flashlight that others proclaim useless, hooked a spoke J-bend under the inner wire and slowly pulled the cable back until I saw the end. I then lifted it to the exit hole, pushed it a little and it was outside of the top tube. I installed the new and well greased plug into the hole, tightened the greased mounting screw and finished wiring and adjusting the Direct Mount brake. You can tell a difference in the braking power just at the lever. There is far less flex in the mechanisms.

The only thing that I am presently short is the wires for the Di2 and I am having a local shop who has a lot of experience with Di2 put those in because I don't want to pay $26 apiece for 6 wires while this guy has a quantity dealer discount. And he will pull the bottom bracket and re-install it and troubleshoot why the crank was touching the off-side chain stay.

There are also other things such as I have the magnet to trigger the Trek installed cadence counter and I'd like to also use it to measure speed rather than a front wheel mess.

Does anyone know if a Garmin 810 has an altimeter in it? I can't find the specs on the Internet.

Yes it has


The one question I have is whether I should add the Bluetooth transceiver to the Di2. Is there any good reason for it? Can I use it to upgrade or setup the software in the Di2? I'd rather do that than drag the bike into the house to use that internal battery charger/Di2 interface to do all of that.


You mean this one:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Sh...s-Unit-p61898/

I don't use it for update the software. I did it once and the bluetooth connection crashed and the whole system was ****ed up. I spit on bluetooth and wifi connections. The wireless unit enables me to see my gears on my Garmin, the battery level and I can swipe through my data pages with the little hidden buttons of my shifters so I don't have to take my hand of the hoods. That is reason enough for me. For updating I rely on on a cabled PC connection and I drag my bike to my control center:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dAWABDgr27tYd6XHA

Pffff. My bicycle control center: https://i.redd.it/jmv1signld731.jpg "Main B bus undervolt. Shifting lost. Huston, we have a problem. Initiate Uber assist!" Programming a bike is kind of ridiculous.

-- Jay Beattie.

;-) I can't top that.

Lou

I can gag.

I just discovered something interesting: you can install the external battery where it doesn't make proper contact and acts as if it is almost out of juice. Removing the battery and re-installing it and all's well.

On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 8:08:12 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 7:32:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 2:07:29 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 8:52:26 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 10:11:09 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 28, 2020 at 6:36:58 PM UTC+1, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, January 9, 2020 at 9:43:42 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
It occurs to me that I should install the hydraulic brakes before I attach the electronic wiring. What do you think?

I had the local top shop remove the stuck screw on the brake cable exit bracket. It turns out that aluminum piece is directly in line for the dripping sweat from a climber. The sweat from the previous owner caused corrosion which stuck the stainless screw in. I found a new one and the screw at the local Trek store and installed them with a good layer of Campy Grease coating everything. But I also ordered some Torx head replacement screws so that is highly unlikely to be unable to be removed again.

The wheels came in an Trek also makes a plastic rim liner for tubeless tires. You have to buy the correct size for your wheel and Trek showing a bit of Nationalism, calls a 700c wheels a 29" wheel. But they do have the proper size for most rims. Though Trek wheels probably are made for disk rims these days which are a bit wider than others. Trick for installation - ALWAYS start the rim strip by installing the tubeless valve tightly in place. If you do not and the valve hole isn't perfectly aligned it is hell to realign (experience of the Trek mechanic).

While I'm using 55 mm deep aero rims I have come to the conclusion that aluminum rims are probably better overall. I put a set of Campy Sciroccos on one of my bikes and there appears to be absolutely no difference in top speed or acceleration though the wheelsets are 500 grams different in weight. And aluminum rims have much better braking.

Installing the brake cable through the top tube I pushed it in from the front plug until I felt it stop. Looked inside with a bright miniature flashlight that others proclaim useless, hooked a spoke J-bend under the inner wire and slowly pulled the cable back until I saw the end. I then lifted it to the exit hole, pushed it a little and it was outside of the top tube. I installed the new and well greased plug into the hole, tightened the greased mounting screw and finished wiring and adjusting the Direct Mount brake. You can tell a difference in the braking power just at the lever. There is far less flex in the mechanisms.

The only thing that I am presently short is the wires for the Di2 and I am having a local shop who has a lot of experience with Di2 put those in because I don't want to pay $26 apiece for 6 wires while this guy has a quantity dealer discount. And he will pull the bottom bracket and re-install it and troubleshoot why the crank was touching the off-side chain stay.

There are also other things such as I have the magnet to trigger the Trek installed cadence counter and I'd like to also use it to measure speed rather than a front wheel mess.

Does anyone know if a Garmin 810 has an altimeter in it? I can't find the specs on the Internet.

Yes it has


The one question I have is whether I should add the Bluetooth transceiver to the Di2. Is there any good reason for it? Can I use it to upgrade or setup the software in the Di2? I'd rather do that than drag the bike into the house to use that internal battery charger/Di2 interface to do all of that.


You mean this one:
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Sh...s-Unit-p61898/

I don't use it for update the software. I did it once and the bluetooth connection crashed and the whole system was ****ed up. I spit on bluetooth and wifi connections. The wireless unit enables me to see my gears on my Garmin, the battery level and I can swipe through my data pages with the little hidden buttons of my shifters so I don't have to take my hand of the hoods. That is reason enough for me. For updating I rely on on a cabled PC connection and I drag my bike to my control center:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dAWABDgr27tYd6XHA

Pffff. My bicycle control center: https://i.redd.it/jmv1signld731.jpg "Main B bus undervolt. Shifting lost. Huston, we have a problem. Initiate Uber assist!" Programming a bike is kind of ridiculous.

-- Jay Beattie.

;-) I can't top that.

Lou

I can gag.

I just discovered something interesting: you can install the external battery where it doesn't make proper contact and acts as if it is almost out of juice. Removing the battery and re-installing it and all's well.

The wind was blowing like hell and it was pretty cold. So here I am trying to get used to a new bike with a new shifting system and wide ratios. The first 14 miles was NO FUN AT ALL.

At the turn around spot and after a cup of coffee I started to get the hang of it and realized that the smaller cogs and the small ring gave closer ratios for riding. By the time I got home I could pretty much find the correct direction shifter through my long fingered gloves.

When I get the Trek together I suppose I'll be ready to work on a real climbing machine. The Redline is a cyclocross bike and the steering is much too sensitive for street tires. I'm sure that with the 32 mm knobbies it is supposed to have it would be fine. Though you can also get used to the sensitive steering as well I'm sure.