Wrench for White Eccentric Hub?

3/4" seems to fit - but loosely.

Anybody know if it's really 3/4" - in this day of metric-almost-everything?

Doesn't take much pressure - but a wrench is needed to tension the chain
whenever wheel is reinstalled - so some sort of wrench has to be carried along
with the patch kit/spare tube.

I'm thinking maybe a pressed steel throwaway wrench that comes with some piece
of equipment or another... A POS wrench for a POS bike, so-to-speak.

Ideas?
--
PeteCresswell

(Pete Cresswell) wrote:
3/4" seems to fit - but loosely.

Anybody know if it's really 3/4" - in this day of metric-almost-everything?

Doesn't take much pressure - but a wrench is needed to tension the chain
whenever wheel is reinstalled - so some sort of wrench has to be carried along
with the patch kit/spare tube.

I'm thinking maybe a pressed steel throwaway wrench that comes with some piece
of equipment or another... A POS wrench for a POS bike, so-to-speak.

A $160 hub on a POS bike? Hmmm, don't tell my Rambouillet!

http://sheldonbrown.org/rambouillet

I've never needed to use a wrench on the axle of mine. I just turn it
by hand, and tighten the left axle nut first, since that is the one
where friction on the threads tends to rotate the axle in the direction
that tightens the chain.

I just went down and checked mine, indeed a 3/4" wrench is a decent but
slightly loose fit. 3/4" = 19.05 mm, so my guess is that it's meant to
be 19 mm. I don't have a 19 mm open-end wrench here at home to try.

My nice metric dial caliper lives at the shop, not at home, and I was
going to let it go at that until I remembered that I have one of my
dad's old micrometers hanging around, a tool I rarely have occasion to use.

The mike gives me 0.7456 with some guesswork about the last digit.
That's 18.938 mm. This is not a surface that is intended to be a high
precision sizing, and my hub is a very early one, back when the axle
caps were being made of titanium instead of steel.

I'd say that, despite this being a made-in-USA product, it probably is
nominally 19 mm on the flats.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/white-hubs.html

Sheldon "One Of My Favorite Bike Parts" Brown
+--------------------------------------------+
| Never worry about theory as long as the |
| machinery does what it's supposed to do. |
| --Robert A. Heinlein |
+--------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

"(Pete Cresswell)" wrote in message . ..
3/4" seems to fit - but loosely.

Anybody know if it's really 3/4" - in this day of metric-almost-everything?

Doesn't take much pressure - but a wrench is needed to tension the chain
whenever wheel is reinstalled - so some sort of wrench has to be carried along
with the patch kit/spare tube.

I'm thinking maybe a pressed steel throwaway wrench that comes with some piece
of equipment or another... A POS wrench for a POS bike, so-to-speak.

Ideas?

Dear Peter,

3/4" = 0.75000" = 19.05mm --too loose?
0.74803" = 19.00mm --princess and pea?
23/32 = 0.71875" = 18.26mm --possibly mythical?
0.70866" = 18.00mm --pressed steel cone wrench?
11/16 = 0.68750" = 17.46mm --c'mon, goldilocks, get real!

A 19mm wrench may be slightly smaller, but it
may depend on how the manufacturer feels about
real versus nominal sizes. More expensive is
usually closer to nominal.

Good luck finding a 23/32. (I have a 25/32
wrench that's never found a use.)

The 18mm is an odd size, but some thin, flat
pressed steel cone wrenches are offered in
this dimension. I've found a few nuts that
actually fit an 18mm.

If you don't have one, borrow or buy a dial
caliper, which takes some of the frustration
out of slightly-off sizes. Any spreadsheet
will let you set up a size table.

All of these are, of course, idealized sizes,
with real wrenches usually being larger than
nominal in various haphazard ways.

Some nominal 5mm nuts on computers, for example,
actually had several variants over the years,
and some wouldn't fit inexpensive 5mm nutdrivers,
which weren't big enough.

Of course, a good small adjustable wrench
solves many problems.

Good luck,

Carl Fogel

On 5 Mar 2004 00:50:42 -0800, (Carl Fogel)
wrote:
Some nominal 5mm nuts on computers, for example,
actually had several variants over the years,
and some wouldn't fit inexpensive 5mm nutdrivers,
which weren't big enough.

Are the nuts in question those that are actually bolts with threaded
holes in the head, as used for motherboard risers and serial port
securers? When I worked in retail PC service, I found that they
existed in two sizes, one metric (5mm) and one standard (3/16").

I always used cheap nut drivers -- in fact, a 1/4" square drive
socket on a 1/4" hex drive - square adapter (which then usually
went into my craftsman 3.6v cordless driver, perfect for computers,
and of course my boss liked it so much he outfitted the store with a
few of them). Most of nuts worked fine in both sockets, but I don't
remember ever seeing a nut too big for either of the sockets in
question. Maybe my inexpensive sockets were very tolerant.

Hey, I just realized one thing we could have done to help prevent
the users from screwing out the serial/parallel/vga/etc ports, which
they often did by over-tightening the cables attached to them
(regardless of verbal or written instructions)...Loctite! Doh!
--
Rick Onanian

Rick Onanian wrote:
On 5 Mar 2004 00:50:42 -0800, (Carl Fogel)
wrote:

Some nominal 5mm nuts on computers, for example,
actually had several variants over the years,
and some wouldn't fit inexpensive 5mm nutdrivers,
which weren't big enough.


Are the nuts in question those that are actually bolts with threaded
holes in the head, as used for motherboard risers and serial port
securers? When I worked in retail PC service, I found that they
existed in two sizes, one metric (5mm) and one standard (3/16").

I always used cheap nut drivers -- in fact, a 1/4" square drive
socket on a 1/4" hex drive - square adapter (which then usually
went into my craftsman 3.6v cordless driver, perfect for computers,


So you're one of those overkill guys? I just got done spraining my wrist
trying to get a screw off so I could remove a SCSI card from someone's
computer today.

Greg

Mmmm.. I agree with Sheldon, my Eric's is not a POS hub.
Now the Bridgestone RB-T it's on might qualify but hey it's what goes
between my legs these days, and I like it.

I got a tip from a local bike shop fixie rider that I'll pass on:
Go to Sears and pickup a 19mm shorty open end wrench, comes with a box
on the other end . Fits in a saddle bag (14cm long), fairly hefty, but
does the job. I trust your hub is of similar size.

Now I've got a question about the same hub. What tool can I use to
remove the BMX freewheel I have threaded on the other side? Due to
the shape and position of the squared off portion, it won't fit the
usual BMX freewheel puller.

Phil

On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 23:23:04 GMT, "G.T."
wrote:
Rick Onanian wrote:
Are the nuts in question those that are actually bolts with threaded
holes in the head, as used for motherboard risers and serial port
securers? When I worked in retail PC service, I found that they

So you're one of those overkill guys? I just got done spraining my wrist
trying to get a screw off so I could remove a SCSI card from someone's
computer today.

No, the screws that hold cards in need not be particularly tight.

It's the nut/screws in the back of serial/parallel/vga ports, to
which a cable is secured to prevent it from falling off the port,
which need extra tightness; users tend to screw those cables in
excessively, and when they unscrew the cable, it pulls the
nut/screws right out of the port rather than unscrewing the cable
from those nut/screws. Then, if the port is on a cable (rather than
soldered directly to a board), it proceeds to fall into the depths
of the computer; this is because that nut/screw also holds the port
to the plate on which it is mounted.

It sounds like you have quite a delicate wrist, however; the screw
that holds a card in (or any other screw in a computer) isn't strong
enough to require much force before it breaks.
--
Rick Onanian

RE/
A $160 hub on a POS bike? Hmmm, don't tell my Rambouillet!

A little spray paint, remove the new rim's stickers...a little mud.... give it a
few months and nobody'll ever know...

I wanted a SS that I could ride fixie when the mood struck...but I didn't want
yet another bike...So this one does triple duty: SS, errands, occasional city
use. I'll hold off on the city use until the shinyness goes away...
--
PeteCresswell

that's a beautiful machine!

any issues using the biopace with fixed chain tension?

Sheldon Brown wrote:
(Pete Cresswell) wrote:

3/4" seems to fit - but loosely.

Anybody know if it's really 3/4" - in this day of
metric-almost-everything?

Doesn't take much pressure - but a wrench is needed to tension the chain
whenever wheel is reinstalled - so some sort of wrench has to be
carried along
with the patch kit/spare tube.

I'm thinking maybe a pressed steel throwaway wrench that comes with
some piece
of equipment or another... A POS wrench for a POS bike, so-to-speak.


A $160 hub on a POS bike? Hmmm, don't tell my Rambouillet!

http://sheldonbrown.org/rambouillet

I've never needed to use a wrench on the axle of mine. I just turn it
by hand, and tighten the left axle nut first, since that is the one
where friction on the threads tends to rotate the axle in the direction
that tightens the chain.

I just went down and checked mine, indeed a 3/4" wrench is a decent but
slightly loose fit. 3/4" = 19.05 mm, so my guess is that it's meant to
be 19 mm. I don't have a 19 mm open-end wrench here at home to try.

My nice metric dial caliper lives at the shop, not at home, and I was
going to let it go at that until I remembered that I have one of my
dad's old micrometers hanging around, a tool I rarely have occasion to use.

The mike gives me 0.7456 with some guesswork about the last digit.
That's 18.938 mm. This is not a surface that is intended to be a high
precision sizing, and my hub is a very early one, back when the axle
caps were being made of titanium instead of steel.

I'd say that, despite this being a made-in-USA product, it probably is
nominally 19 mm on the flats.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/white-hubs.html

Sheldon "One Of My Favorite Bike Parts" Brown
+--------------------------------------------+
| Never worry about theory as long as the |
| machinery does what it's supposed to do. |
| --Robert A. Heinlein |
+--------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

RE/
Now I've got a question about the same hub. What tool can I use to
remove the BMX freewheel I have threaded on the other side? Due to
the shape and position of the squared off portion, it won't fit the
usual BMX freewheel puller.

My Park FR-6 almost fits. Couple touches in a drill press and I bet it would
do the trick.
--
PeteCresswell