Felt F55X

On Friday, February 26, 2021 at 11:18:04 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/26/2021 1:45 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/26/2021 12:12 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/26/2021 12:54 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Friday, February 26, 2021 at 7:32:05 AM UTC-8, Frank
Krygowski wrote:
On 2/25/2021 8:40 PM, jbeattie wrote:

The bottom line is that if you're building this for
resale, you're looking at a tougher resale than just a
real gravel bike with drop bars. You're building a
coffee shop racer with flat bars and big tires. Maybe
that sells in the Bay Area.
I confess, Tom's constant churning of his fleet puzzles me.

I tend in the opposite direction. I think very heavily
before acquiring
something to make really sure that it's something I'll
want to keep;
than I tend to keep those things a very long time. That
applies to
bikes, cars, my motorcycle, my home, jobs, tools, and
more. Heck, I'm
still on my first wife!

Everyone's different, I guess.

Frank, I doubt very much that I would have a major carbon
fiber failure with the bikes I have. I moved to top of the
line bikes to go to "light" only to discover that it makes
so little difference in speed that it is foolish to put so
much money into it. And in the back of my mind there is
ALWAYS the possibility of a catastrophic failure.

So I'm not really "churning" my stable.

How many bikes have you bought and sold in the last five or
ten years?


Personally, zero. I've ridden my very favorite bike for 49 years now.
That said, I flipped my 'nice' road bike frame for a new one every year
for many years. Both approaches are fine.
There's no law against Tom buying and selling his "dozens" of bikes in
five or ten years. And there's no law against a new bike every year,
especially if a person is a bike shop professional.

But Tom's compulsion seems like an addiction, like he's desperately
searching for contentment or validation or ... something.

I've known a couple individuals with persistent depression, whose
(unsuccessful) coping mechanism was compulsive shopping. It's a fairly
common syndrome.

I don't like the process of buying and selling on Craigslist, so its not something I'd want to do, but building and flipping bikes as a retirement pastime seems pretty harmless.

Tom doesn't even move the needle in terms of bicycle hoarding. My son has a co-worker with 30 bikes, many repeats with subtle variations. There is resale opportunity after a long waiting period (per company rules), but that's not why this guy buys. He's like a heroin addict working at a methadone clinic -- one for me, one for you . . .

-- Jay Beattie.

On 2/26/2021 6:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, February 26, 2021 at 11:18:04 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/26/2021 1:45 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/26/2021 12:12 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/26/2021 12:54 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Friday, February 26, 2021 at 7:32:05 AM UTC-8, Frank
Krygowski wrote:
On 2/25/2021 8:40 PM, jbeattie wrote:

The bottom line is that if you're building this for
resale, you're looking at a tougher resale than just a
real gravel bike with drop bars. You're building a
coffee shop racer with flat bars and big tires. Maybe
that sells in the Bay Area.
I confess, Tom's constant churning of his fleet puzzles me.

I tend in the opposite direction. I think very heavily
before acquiring
something to make really sure that it's something I'll
want to keep;
than I tend to keep those things a very long time. That
applies to
bikes, cars, my motorcycle, my home, jobs, tools, and
more. Heck, I'm
still on my first wife!

Everyone's different, I guess.

Frank, I doubt very much that I would have a major carbon
fiber failure with the bikes I have. I moved to top of the
line bikes to go to "light" only to discover that it makes
so little difference in speed that it is foolish to put so
much money into it. And in the back of my mind there is
ALWAYS the possibility of a catastrophic failure.

So I'm not really "churning" my stable.

How many bikes have you bought and sold in the last five or
ten years?


Personally, zero. I've ridden my very favorite bike for 49 years now.
That said, I flipped my 'nice' road bike frame for a new one every year
for many years. Both approaches are fine.
There's no law against Tom buying and selling his "dozens" of bikes in
five or ten years. And there's no law against a new bike every year,
especially if a person is a bike shop professional.

But Tom's compulsion seems like an addiction, like he's desperately
searching for contentment or validation or ... something.

I've known a couple individuals with persistent depression, whose
(unsuccessful) coping mechanism was compulsive shopping. It's a fairly
common syndrome.

I don't like the process of buying and selling on Craigslist, so its not something I'd want to do, but building and flipping bikes as a retirement pastime seems pretty harmless.

I agree, it's far from the worst method of dealing with, um, whatever
Tom is dealing with. But it still seems sort of compulsive.

Tom doesn't even move the needle in terms of bicycle hoarding. My son has a co-worker with 30 bikes, many repeats with subtle variations. There is resale opportunity after a long waiting period (per company rules), but that's not why this guy buys. He's like a heroin addict working at a methadone clinic -- one for me, one for you . . .

A heroin addict working at a methadone clinic wouldn't be my choice for
an example of "just fine."


--
- Frank Krygowski

Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.

On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.

On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank..
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.

? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line.. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.

I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.

On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.

On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.

A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5.1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.

The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?

On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 4:22:58 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 2:23:58 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:36:25 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 9:25:52 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 4:14:37 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 3:33:12 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Saturday, February 27, 2021 at 7:04:55 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 25, 2021 at 11:09:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/25/2021 12:10 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 2:04:33 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/24/2021 2:59 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
Parts are trickling in slowly. Local parts I can obtained off of
Craigs list now are so overpriced that it is out of question to pay
$60 for a bolt-on disk. There is a guy that sells Chinese parts that
are cheap enough and with the bolts included but he is almost
impossible to get him to respond so I gave up. I'm sure he is paying
his way through Cal State Hayward with the money but no response, no
sale and now it costs as much to get a single disk from eBay as four from him.

The headset tool won't arrive for another couple of weeks but since
there are four other minor parts that are going to take that long no
sense in worrying about it. The BB386 us going to take that long as
well and it doesn't matter if the work isn't installed if the crank
can't be fitted. The 32 tooth 10 speed cassette came in and I
installed that yesterday as the hunchback. since the rear disk
hydraulic line was mounted a rather long way it should fit on the 2
cm larger frameset without problem. The say with the front line. It
is internal on this fork but was external on the other. So I will
have to strip off the bead and cap on the lever end and stick it up
from the bottom side. in order to lose the lease fluid and make it
easier to bleed afterwards. It appears that flat bar gravel bikes are
getting popular so this one should move a lot faster than the Emonda
or Modone. The last guy to query about the Emonda must have been a
monkey, after exchanges for three days he said that
he
wouldn't fit the bike. He is three inches shorter than I am but claims
his arms are 37" long. Maybe he is measuring from the middle of his
back because from shoulder to fingertip my arms are 26".

The tires are 3 mm wider than I would like but there is more than
plenty of room with these triangles. It is surprising how easy gravel
tires roll on hard surfaces. But gravel bikes have lower gear ratios
and the 11/42 high gear isn't going to rush anyone down the road. If
I can get this together there is another Felt road bike that I will
buy and build into a 10 speed Campy Record. The parts I have look
brand new, though I will be looking for a compact two piece crank.
That will require a compact front derailleur that will come from the Campy warehouse.

I was standing upright for the first half hour of this morning so I
am recovering from that stained back if a lot more slowly than I would like.

I wonder how you tell what sort of hydraulic fluid is in this Avid
setup. It could use either Shimano mineral oil or DOT 5..1 which needs
replacing every year if that makes any sense. When was the last time
you replaced your car brake fluid?

DOT 5.1. Do not substitute another fluid.

Any auto parts store or with a SRAM/Avid label.

By the way, Andrew, Mineral oil is a light petroleum based lubricant
derived from petroleum. DOT 5.1 is largely solvents used to lighten the
Polyglycols that are used in the fluid. Polyglycols are also derived
from petroleum and are a very heavy lubricant. Polyglycols are used
mostly in lubricating very high load gear trains and worm gears that
carry very heavy loads. It isn't clear to me why you would use this
lubricant cut 70% or more by solvents rather than a lighter lubricating
oil like mineral oil one such a lightly loaded use such as a bicycle
disk brake whose loading is almost nothing. There are sometimes
additives that are supposed to slow the evaporation of the solvents
from the brake fluid.

It's often noted here on RBT that frequently the largest
part of a problem is 'you don't know what you don't know'.

This may be a case of that. Use DOT 5.1 and no other.

I don't know the chemistry of the seals and piston materials
and I'm pretty sure you don't either. I'm fairly confident
the designers and engineers do, or at least did when they
specified a particular fluid.

I do know that you have to replace this fluid supposedly every year (I
doubt anyone does that) and that is because it is 70% solvents to cut
down the very heavy lubrication grease. Mineral oil doesn't degrade ANY
seals that can take those DOT solvents. Though I will follow your advice
and use the cheaper brake fluid.

No it’s fairly obvious when it needs it, brakes will start to feel squishy,
haven’t had to have a service on either the MTB or commute bike for a good
5 years or so now.

The gravel well parts are new so too soon to know, but on the whole as long
as they are being used, they are happy.

Roger Merriman.
Roger, if the brakes are feeling "squishy" you are already in danger of a rim failure.
? He's talking about a soft feeling disc brake, which means air in the system or inadequate fill or a leak. It has nothing to do with the rim.
I must have thought that we were still on the rim failure conversation.
I received the Zitto BB386 bottom bracket and was disappointed to see that they had sent me a 30mm crank version. I ordered a 24mm Shimano crank version. Otherwise it appears to be a rather good bottom bracket. No sense in sending it back since I intend to get a Felt Road Bike later and use an FSA Gossamer compact crank in it. These have a 30 mm shaft. So I looked on eBay and a local California company has the correct size and it should be here in a couple of days.
A 24mm version of a BB386 is a non sequitur. 24mm is BB86. BB386 is by definition 30mm.
The Felt is marked BB386 in the paintwork. Only one company makes a 30 mm shaft crankset. Also I just bought a BB386 bottom bracket that said 24 mm on it. (isn't that also the same diameter as the Campy Ultradrive?

So perhaps you're correct but does it really matter if the only difference is the shaft diameter?

BB386 is just a press-fit BB30 that is wider, which means that a normal BB30 crank axle will be too short. https://bikerumor.com/2011/12/22/fsa...rison-weights/ A Shimano will work fine with a BB386 and an adapter to reduce the ID. So just buy an adapter. https://wheelsmfg.com/386evo-adapter...no-cranks.html That seems steep, and you can probably get a cheaper adapter elsewhere.

-- Jay Beattie.