Cantilever Vs V-brakes.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 17:04:50 -0700 (PDT), Doug Landau
wrote:

On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 4:52:17 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 22:19:12 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/2016 12:07 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 8:19:28 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/29/2016 12:45 AM, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2016-09-28, AMuzi wrote:

But cantilevers do not _require_ a hole in the seat post:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/hanger.html

Some riders do find that aesthetically pleasing:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19g.jpg

although many do not. Meh.

Andy, that's a very attractive bike! I like the nice touches on
seatstays and cable routing as well as the lovely not-Celeste hue.
Did you build the frame? Is there a mechanism for installing or
keeping the seatpost at the correct height for cable transit?


Yes I built it to customer's spec.

A change of seat post height did indeed require a brake
adjustment but the pierced post & stem thing had a following
back in that era.

Like hula hoops, fashion changes.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Were there many seatpost failures caused by drilling a hole through the
seatpost?

Probably but I never saw one.
Stems yes.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19f.jpg
Don't do that.

They use seriously low grade steel - once I tried welding a front fork lamp
bracket because the clamp kept coming loose.

The tube wall isn't that thin, but the welding rod kept blowing holes. The
only way to complete the job was feed in a 4mm rod as additional filler.

Poor technique. Trying to weld with too much amperage will almost
always result in "blowing holes" in the parent material.

Even before that you get a lot of splatter

Well true to an extent, but I've found that spatter also depends on
what type of rod one is using, i.e., the flux coating on the rod. Many
of the Lo-Hi rods run pretty cleanly while something like 6010 or 11
seem to spatter more.

But probably an arc welder is not the best selection in welding thin
wall tubing :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 6:23:06 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 17:04:50 -0700 (PDT), Doug Landau
wrote:

On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 4:52:17 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 22:19:12 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/2016 12:07 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 8:19:28 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/29/2016 12:45 AM, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2016-09-28, AMuzi wrote:

But cantilevers do not _require_ a hole in the seat post:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/hanger.html

Some riders do find that aesthetically pleasing:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19g.jpg

although many do not. Meh.

Andy, that's a very attractive bike! I like the nice touches on
seatstays and cable routing as well as the lovely not-Celeste hue.
Did you build the frame? Is there a mechanism for installing or
keeping the seatpost at the correct height for cable transit?


Yes I built it to customer's spec.

A change of seat post height did indeed require a brake
adjustment but the pierced post & stem thing had a following
back in that era.

Like hula hoops, fashion changes.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Were there many seatpost failures caused by drilling a hole through the
seatpost?

Probably but I never saw one.
Stems yes.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19f.jpg
Don't do that.

They use seriously low grade steel - once I tried welding a front fork lamp
bracket because the clamp kept coming loose.

The tube wall isn't that thin, but the welding rod kept blowing holes. The
only way to complete the job was feed in a 4mm rod as additional filler.

Poor technique. Trying to weld with too much amperage will almost
always result in "blowing holes" in the parent material.

Even before that you get a lot of splatter

Well true to an extent, but I've found that spatter also depends on
what type of rod one is using, i.e., the flux coating on the rod. Many
of the Lo-Hi rods run pretty cleanly while something like 6010 or 11
seem to spatter more.

But probably an arc welder is not the best selection in welding thin
wall tubing :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

OK,
what is the right amps for arc welding 1/8" to 3/32 or 1/16th? I am using 3/16 6013
Same question for 1/8 to 5/32 or 3/16, this time using 1/4 6013

On 9/29/2016 9:37 PM, Doug Landau wrote:
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 6:23:06 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 17:04:50 -0700 (PDT), Doug Landau
wrote:

On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 4:52:17 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 22:19:12 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/2016 12:07 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 8:19:28 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/29/2016 12:45 AM, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2016-09-28, AMuzi wrote:

But cantilevers do not _require_ a hole in the seat post:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/hanger.html

Some riders do find that aesthetically pleasing:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19g.jpg

although many do not. Meh.

Andy, that's a very attractive bike! I like the nice touches on
seatstays and cable routing as well as the lovely not-Celeste hue.
Did you build the frame? Is there a mechanism for installing or
keeping the seatpost at the correct height for cable transit?


Yes I built it to customer's spec.

A change of seat post height did indeed require a brake
adjustment but the pierced post & stem thing had a following
back in that era.

Like hula hoops, fashion changes.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Were there many seatpost failures caused by drilling a hole through the
seatpost?

Probably but I never saw one.
Stems yes.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19f.jpg
Don't do that.

They use seriously low grade steel - once I tried welding a front fork lamp
bracket because the clamp kept coming loose.

The tube wall isn't that thin, but the welding rod kept blowing holes. The
only way to complete the job was feed in a 4mm rod as additional filler.

Poor technique. Trying to weld with too much amperage will almost
always result in "blowing holes" in the parent material.

Even before that you get a lot of splatter

Well true to an extent, but I've found that spatter also depends on
what type of rod one is using, i.e., the flux coating on the rod. Many
of the Lo-Hi rods run pretty cleanly while something like 6010 or 11
seem to spatter more.

But probably an arc welder is not the best selection in welding thin
wall tubing :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

OK,
what is the right amps for arc welding 1/8" to 3/32 or 1/16th? I am using 3/16 6013
Same question for 1/8 to 5/32 or 3/16, this time using 1/4 6013

I don't believe I'd try welding anything to a fork tube. I'd prefer
brazing.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 18:37:41 -0700 (PDT), Doug Landau
wrote:

On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 6:23:06 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 17:04:50 -0700 (PDT), Doug Landau
wrote:

On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 4:52:17 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 22:19:12 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/2016 12:07 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 8:19:28 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/29/2016 12:45 AM, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2016-09-28, AMuzi wrote:

But cantilevers do not _require_ a hole in the seat post:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/hanger.html

Some riders do find that aesthetically pleasing:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19g.jpg

although many do not. Meh.

Andy, that's a very attractive bike! I like the nice touches on
seatstays and cable routing as well as the lovely not-Celeste hue.
Did you build the frame? Is there a mechanism for installing or
keeping the seatpost at the correct height for cable transit?


Yes I built it to customer's spec.

A change of seat post height did indeed require a brake
adjustment but the pierced post & stem thing had a following
back in that era.

Like hula hoops, fashion changes.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Were there many seatpost failures caused by drilling a hole through the
seatpost?

Probably but I never saw one.
Stems yes.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19f.jpg
Don't do that.

They use seriously low grade steel - once I tried welding a front fork lamp
bracket because the clamp kept coming loose.

The tube wall isn't that thin, but the welding rod kept blowing holes. The
only way to complete the job was feed in a 4mm rod as additional filler.

Poor technique. Trying to weld with too much amperage will almost
always result in "blowing holes" in the parent material.

Even before that you get a lot of splatter

Well true to an extent, but I've found that spatter also depends on
what type of rod one is using, i.e., the flux coating on the rod. Many
of the Lo-Hi rods run pretty cleanly while something like 6010 or 11
seem to spatter more.

But probably an arc welder is not the best selection in welding thin
wall tubing :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

OK,
what is the right amps for arc welding 1/8" to 3/32 or 1/16th? I am using 3/16 6013
Same question for 1/8 to 5/32 or 3/16, this time using 1/4 6013

The rule of thumb is 1 amp per 0.001 inch of thickness, which I assume
relates to single pass 100% penetration as I've found that was usually
higher than necessary. So for 1/16" amperage would be 62 amps.

As I say, it is usually too high a current or at least I would use
considerably less then 250 amps for 1/4" stuff, but it does depend
also on the rod size, with larger rods requiring higher current.

It also depends on the material. Aluminum, for instance, usually
requires a bit higher amperage as it transfers heat very rapidly.
--
cheers,

John B.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 22:36:12 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 9/29/2016 9:37 PM, Doug Landau wrote:
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 6:23:06 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 17:04:50 -0700 (PDT), Doug Landau
wrote:

On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 4:52:17 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 22:19:12 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/2016 12:07 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, September 29, 2016 at 8:19:28 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/29/2016 12:45 AM, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2016-09-28, AMuzi wrote:

But cantilevers do not _require_ a hole in the seat post:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/hanger.html

Some riders do find that aesthetically pleasing:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19g.jpg

although many do not. Meh.

Andy, that's a very attractive bike! I like the nice touches on
seatstays and cable routing as well as the lovely not-Celeste hue.
Did you build the frame? Is there a mechanism for installing or
keeping the seatpost at the correct height for cable transit?


Yes I built it to customer's spec.

A change of seat post height did indeed require a brake
adjustment but the pierced post & stem thing had a following
back in that era.

Like hula hoops, fashion changes.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Were there many seatpost failures caused by drilling a hole through the
seatpost?

Probably but I never saw one.
Stems yes.
http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfromthepast/am19f.jpg
Don't do that.

They use seriously low grade steel - once I tried welding a front fork lamp
bracket because the clamp kept coming loose.

The tube wall isn't that thin, but the welding rod kept blowing holes. The
only way to complete the job was feed in a 4mm rod as additional filler.

Poor technique. Trying to weld with too much amperage will almost
always result in "blowing holes" in the parent material.

Even before that you get a lot of splatter

Well true to an extent, but I've found that spatter also depends on
what type of rod one is using, i.e., the flux coating on the rod. Many
of the Lo-Hi rods run pretty cleanly while something like 6010 or 11
seem to spatter more.

But probably an arc welder is not the best selection in welding thin
wall tubing :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

OK,
what is the right amps for arc welding 1/8" to 3/32 or 1/16th? I am using 3/16 6013
Same question for 1/8 to 5/32 or 3/16, this time using 1/4 6013

I don't believe I'd try welding anything to a fork tube. I'd prefer
brazing.

Even better, silver solder :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On 2016-09-29, Benderthe.evilrobot wrote:

The brand is CBR Slalom - years ago I tracked down a picture for the benefit
of someone who got very annoyed that I'd called a CBR motorcycle a bicycle.
Last time searched for the picture I couldn't find it.

Your image:
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/P8QAAOSwWfFXj4TJ/$_86.JPG

(http://static.gamesurf.it/cover/news...x226/60269.jpg)

--
Gregory S. Sutter Mostly Harmless

http://zer0.org/~gsutter/

"Gregory Sutter" wrote in message
...
On 2016-09-29, Benderthe.evilrobot
wrote:

The brand is CBR Slalom - years ago I tracked down a picture for the
benefit
of someone who got very annoyed that I'd called a CBR motorcycle a
bicycle.
Last time searched for the picture I couldn't find it.

Your image:
https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/P8QAAOSwWfFXj4TJ/$_86.JPG

Thanks - mine had black fork sliders with gaiters, which were falling off in
strips.
Found a pair the right diameter for the stanchions, but they didn't fit over
the top of the sliders. At least they keep SOME of the crap off the moving
parts.

It had the original saddle with "CBR" screen printed on the sides, but that
got changed for more comfort.

On 2016-09-29, John B wrote:

I make them up from a length of stainless welding rod and a commercial
cable stop. I've also used flat stainless stock in place of the rod.
Say 4 inches of welding rod or a piece of scrap of stainless sheet and
a cable stop ($0.27 at Nova), and perhaps 1/4" of silver soldering
wire. Cost? Maybe couple of dollars. Makes that Compass part look sort
of high priced :-)

See, metalworking skills are very valuable!

--
Gregory S. Sutter Mostly Harmless

http://zer0.org/~gsutter/

On Fri, 30 Sep 2016 14:25:39 -0500, Gregory Sutter
wrote:

On 2016-09-29, John B wrote:

I make them up from a length of stainless welding rod and a commercial
cable stop. I've also used flat stainless stock in place of the rod.
Say 4 inches of welding rod or a piece of scrap of stainless sheet and
a cable stop ($0.27 at Nova), and perhaps 1/4" of silver soldering
wire. Cost? Maybe couple of dollars. Makes that Compass part look sort
of high priced :-)

See, metalworking skills are very valuable!

It takes minimal metalworking skills to bend a piece of wire into a
"U" shape :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

On 9/30/2016 3:25 PM, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2016-09-29, John B wrote:

I make them up from a length of stainless welding rod and a commercial
cable stop. I've also used flat stainless stock in place of the rod.
Say 4 inches of welding rod or a piece of scrap of stainless sheet and
a cable stop ($0.27 at Nova), and perhaps 1/4" of silver soldering
wire. Cost? Maybe couple of dollars. Makes that Compass part look sort
of high priced :-)

See, metalworking skills are very valuable!

I certainly agree with that!


--
- Frank Krygowski