|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know.
In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
On 7/27/2018 3:13 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:15:02 PM UTC-7, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 17:39:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote: A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know. In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. One, off topic comment. Regardless of what a tire says on the side there are optimum inflation pressures that are usually lower then the numbers on the side walls - 110 psi - 120 psi. Look up one of the numerous weight/pressure tables and try the recommended pressure. You'd be surprised how comfortable they are. I'm a little guy, 61 Kg and I usually run ~75 psi for the usual city streets. 1. The tire manufacturer supplies a list of advised pressures for rider weight. 2. The advised pressure for my weight on a 25 mm Michelin is 108-110 psi. 3. And with over 80,000 ft of climbing and over 2,500 miles so far this year despite a couple of prime months lost to weather or medical problems leaves me at over 82 kgs. I have a problem understanding what sort of riding you people are doing. Joerg and I seem to ride in the same manner as does (or did) Joy. 32 mm tires are for Cross or Gravel bikes. Why would you ride a high rolling resistance tire on a commuter which operates in the speed regime where rolling resistance is the prime source of friction? I'm not certain, but you seem to be implying that 25mm tires must roll easier than 25mm tires. I don't believe that's the case. https://road.cc/content/feature/1825...ch-wider-tyres https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/...es-are-slower/ https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_i...ing_resistance -- - Frank Krygowski |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
On 7/27/2018 7:36 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/27/2018 3:13 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:15:02 PM UTC-7, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 17:39:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote: A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know. In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. One, off topic comment. Regardless of what a tire says on the side there are optimum inflation pressures that are usually lower then the numbers on the side walls - 110 psi - 120 psi. Look up one of the numerous weight/pressure tables and try the recommended pressure. You'd be surprised how comfortable they are. I'm a little guy, 61 Kg and I usually run ~75 psi for the usual city streets. 1. The tire manufacturer supplies a list of advised pressures for rider weight. 2. The advised pressure for my weight on a 25 mm Michelin is 108-110 psi. 3. And with over 80,000 ft of climbing and over 2,500 miles so far this year despite a couple of prime months lost to weather or medical problems leaves me at over 82 kgs. I have a problem understanding what sort of riding you people are doing. Joerg and I seem to ride in the same manner as does (or did) Joy. 32 mm tires are for Cross or Gravel bikes. Why would you ride a high rolling resistance tire on a commuter which operates in the speed regime where rolling resistance is the prime source of friction? I'm not certain, but you seem to be implying that 25mm tires must roll easier than _32mm_ tires. I don't believe that's the case. https://road.cc/content/feature/1825...ch-wider-tyres https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/...es-are-slower/ https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_i...ing_resistance Sorry, I corrected my typo. "you seem to be implying that 25mm tires must roll easier than _32mm_ tires." -- - Frank Krygowski |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
On Friday, July 27, 2018 at 5:02:58 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/27/2018 7:36 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 7/27/2018 3:13 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:15:02 PM UTC-7, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 17:39:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote: A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know. In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. One, off topic comment. Regardless of what a tire says on the side there are optimum inflation pressures that are usually lower then the numbers on the side walls - 110 psi - 120 psi. Look up one of the numerous weight/pressure tables and try the recommended pressure. You'd be surprised how comfortable they are. I'm a little guy, 61 Kg and I usually run ~75 psi for the usual city streets. 1. The tire manufacturer supplies a list of advised pressures for rider weight. 2. The advised pressure for my weight on a 25 mm Michelin is 108-110 psi. 3. And with over 80,000 ft of climbing and over 2,500 miles so far this year despite a couple of prime months lost to weather or medical problems leaves me at over 82 kgs. I have a problem understanding what sort of riding you people are doing. Joerg and I seem to ride in the same manner as does (or did) Joy. 32 mm tires are for Cross or Gravel bikes. Why would you ride a high rolling resistance tire on a commuter which operates in the speed regime where rolling resistance is the prime source of friction? I'm not certain, but you seem to be implying that 25mm tires must roll easier than _32mm_ tires. I don't believe that's the case. https://road.cc/content/feature/1825...ch-wider-tyres https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/...es-are-slower/ https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_i...ing_resistance Sorry, I corrected my typo. "you seem to be implying that 25mm tires must roll easier than _32mm_ tires." Frank - of course there is a point of diminishing returns. The pressure to support a rider gets lower and lower with increasing tire width so at some point the amount of rubber on the road starts to increase the rolling resistance. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 10:15:02 PM UTC-7, John B. Slocomb wrote: On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 17:39:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote: A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know. In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. One, off topic comment. Regardless of what a tire says on the side there are optimum inflation pressures that are usually lower then the numbers on the side walls - 110 psi - 120 psi. Look up one of the numerous weight/pressure tables and try the recommended pressure. You'd be surprised how comfortable they are. I'm a little guy, 61 Kg and I usually run ~75 psi for the usual city streets. 1. The tire manufacturer supplies a list of advised pressures for rider weight. 2. The advised pressure for my weight on a 25 mm Michelin is 108-110 psi. 3. And with over 80,000 ft of climbing and over 2,500 miles so far this year despite a couple of prime months lost to weather or medical problems leaves me at over 82 kgs. I have a problem understanding what sort of riding you people are doing. Joerg and I seem to ride in the same manner as does (or did) Joy. 32 mm tires are for Cross or Gravel bikes. Why would you ride a high rolling resistance tire on a commuter which operates in the speed regime where rolling resistance is the prime source of friction? My commuter bike runs Marathon Plus Touring. They are heavy slow things, and have mildly reduced grip. But they can cope with 400+ miles per month over a sea of broken glass and what not, they also have very good wear rates, the tyres I had before would of worn though quite a few times over by now. Objectively using the nr decade of GPS tracking I have Marathon plus or similar doesn’t make any difference to ones commuting times, not much to athletic leisure riding either, where they fall down in, is feel and grip. Roger Merriman |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
wrote:
A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know. In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. I’d agree with other comment that potentially you where running too high pressures with tubes, my only road bike now is a gravel bike with 32mm tyres which sweet spot with tubes is 60psi ie soft enough to conform to the road, with out squirming or dinging the rim, tubeless and on road the risk of pinch punctures etc is much lower than gravel/bridleway hacking so you could drop a fair bit lower. Though lot is personal feel I hate the squirm of low pressure tyres, on the MTB I don’t drop below 30psi. For commuting tyres, which tend to be stiff, hard wearing, puncture proof things. Tubeless doesn’t really offer much. I did toy with the idea of Tubeless for my new job location as though it’s parks and segregated bike lanes, it’s also littered with large amounts of broken glass/bottles etc. Even the Marathon Plus Touring though not punctured have picked up some impressive war wounds. Roger Merriman |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 5:39:51 PM UTC-7, wrote:
A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know. In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. I again rode my tubeless which for the Pinarello are 25 mm. Running at 80 psi they actually felt a little over-inflated since there was a little too much "bounce" to them. I am 6'4" and right now weigh 181 lbs. The bike is 22 lbs complete with a very small seat pack that contains only a CO2 inflator and cartridge. The rougher the surface the lower the pressure you should run. On a tubeless the limit is when the tire begins to "squirm" or roll around and threaten to slip off of the rim. On tube tires the threat of a pinch flat is there even at full pressure if you hit a sharp bump such as a missing utility cover which around here can be only 6" across. In any case, the other guys were riding high pressure 23's with tubes in them. I was taking about 2 pedal strokes for every 3 they were and I was continually having to put the brakes on as I kept coasting up on them because the rolling resistance was so much less. If I take the lead and just pedal easy I drop them. But they are old farts like me so that is no surprise. This is why I ride lantern rouge. This isn't in order to start any more arguments - it is giving the people who are interested in tubeless tires information that they can use and test for themselves. As I said elsewhere - the lower performance rider you are the more important rolling resistance becomes because it is a larger percentage of the drag on you and the bike. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Tubeless Tires
On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 2:41:38 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 5:39:51 PM UTC-7, wrote: A couple of months ago I was struck by a car that decided four way stop intersections were not what they meant. I had come to a complete stop and allowed ALL of the traffic to pass and started across. I got 2/3eds of the way across and the woman who had been behind a pickup I let pass rolled the stop sign and accelerated directly into me. She was obviously distracted but the old bat might have been having her first clear shot at a bike for all I know. In any case perhaps I should start from the beginning - back around 2008 I bought a new Time VX Elite carbon fiber bike. With the normal 120 psi 23 mm tires it was completely un-ridable. It was so stiff it would hammer your balls through your skull on the first bump. So it went up on the shelf. I removed the components and used them elsewhere and that frame just sat there. Anyway I decided to put it back together and since the latest fad is fat tires I put 28 mm Michelin Krylon Endurance on them. What an F-ING difference! With the fat tires it is one of the best rides I've ever had. My Pinarello Stelvio was the one I was riding when I was hit and while the frame and fork came though OK every component on the bike was broken. I had Campy Scirroco CX wheels on it and I discovered that I HATE aero wheels with a passion. Since her insurance company was paying for it I bought a set of Fulcrum Racing 3 wheels that were last year's and on clearance. When they arrived they were already set up for Tubeless. Well, I had been wanting to try that as well. The older steel bikes won't fit fat tires so the largest that would fit are 25's. I installed the tires on the wheels. I had bought 4 ounce bottle of Orange sealant which was the best in the tests I read. Now the tires will not go onto the rims because they are a bit tight. So first I put the filler at the bottom and using a Park Valve Tool I removed the valve head. Pumped in 2 ounces of Orange then turned the wheel perhaps 1/8th of a turn so that when you release the squeeze bottle it doesn't suck the sealant back in. Then I hit it with a CO2 cartridge. POP!!! it was on and I rotated the wheel while laying it on one side and then the other since initial leaks are from the tire and rim not being a perfect fit. Every morning I had to pump the tires up until I finally took it for a ride and that fit the tires well onto the rim and the bumps packed sealant into any voids. Now the tires with tubes would normally run around 110 lbs and be not very easy riding. But now I ride between 60 and 80 psi (letting the pressure go down over a week before refilling). The ride is exceptional. With the higher pressure they are sort of bouncy so fast downhills can be scary. With the lower pressure the rolling resistance doesn't seem to increase detectably. Riding with guys with the high pressure tube tires I find myself coasting while they are pedaling. Not to mention they cannot get a pinch flat and with the sealant they cannot get flats. So I can leave that damn 2 lb flat kit at home and just take a multitool and a CO2 cartridge and filler just in case I get a large enough hole that the tire gets too soft before sealing. And I doubt I'll ever need that. So if you've had any questions about how tubeless works I am quite satisfied with it after a couple of months. Now I ride sport bikes and I don't know that this would be a good idea for 32 mm commuter tires. Though probably, because they talk about using them for CX tires which have a lot of pinch flat problems. But these normally run higher pressures than you would with a tube in it. There's always the possibility of it blowing the tire off of the rim unless you're using Mavic tires and rims specifically designed to work together tubeless. As far as I know Mavic are the only people to have "systems" designed. I again rode my tubeless which for the Pinarello are 25 mm. Running at 80 psi they actually felt a little over-inflated since there was a little too much "bounce" to them. I am 6'4" and right now weigh 181 lbs. The bike is 22 lbs complete with a very small seat pack that contains only a CO2 inflator and cartridge. The rougher the surface the lower the pressure you should run. On a tubeless the limit is when the tire begins to "squirm" or roll around and threaten to slip off of the rim. On tube tires the threat of a pinch flat is there even at full pressure if you hit a sharp bump such as a missing utility cover which around here can be only 6" across. In any case, the other guys were riding high pressure 23's with tubes in them. I was taking about 2 pedal strokes for every 3 they were and I was continually having to put the brakes on as I kept coasting up on them because the rolling resistance was so much less. If I take the lead and just pedal easy I drop them. But they are old farts like me so that is no surprise. This is why I ride lantern rouge. I have never used tubeless, so no comment there, but I think you're just faster than your friends, and tires probably have very little to do with the relative speed difference. Tell us how the tubeless compare to your prior light tube/light clinchers. I'm working through my back-stock of 23mm Pro4s (I'm now using 25s on the fast bike) and have one of those on my rear wheel. I got a flat today and popped in a tube and hit it with a CO2 inflator -- 16g, and man, that really gets it rock hard, for better or worse. I'm pretty sure the flat was from a rock strike, but it wasn't a big blow-out. Anyway, sealant probably would have taken care of it, and flying down a hill with bad surface, a rock hard 23mm tire doesn't inspire confidence. I did miss my discs a little. I had to bail out onto a gravel shoulder when a f****** meat-head in a PU pulling a boat went way over the center line and into my lane on a descent. This one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NPqQptjbF0 -- except sunny and dry. I stopped before going down a ravine, which was good. And since I'm telling stories, there was a three or so mile gravel climb, which also sucks on narrow tires, and to add insult to injury, I ended up in a pack of gravel bikers -- more ad hoc Portland bike racing. I've got some OE wheels that came on my Emonda that I might set up as tubeless just to try the goop experience. -- Jay Beattie. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Tubeless Tires | [email protected] | Techniques | 5 | April 12th 17 03:49 AM |
tubeless tires | steve | Techniques | 2 | March 14th 08 11:18 AM |
Tubeless vs Tubed Tires | mary | General | 6 | April 19th 05 02:53 PM |
Tubeless tires | MT | Techniques | 2 | March 30th 05 09:08 AM |
tubeless tires | Operator | Mountain Biking | 10 | July 26th 04 10:39 AM |