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#1
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure.
The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. I had to bend that bracket in the vice to make it closer to 90 degrees and then shortened up my FD cable just to make sure all the housings weren't whacking the light. I'm going to check the crank tomorrow since it was making a bunch of noise when I last commuted to work and throw on the winter tires. I struggled around today on a short ride and figure I'll be ready to go back to commuting on Monday. Slowly and painfully. I need to start riding so people in the elevator stop asking me why I'm not riding. I get concern from people who I basically don't even know except that I ride the elevator with them. -- Jay Beattie. |
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#2
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure. The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. I had to bend that bracket in the vice to make it closer to 90 degrees and then shortened up my FD cable just to make sure all the housings weren't whacking the light. I'm going to check the crank tomorrow since it was making a bunch of noise when I last commuted to work and throw on the winter tires. I struggled around today on a short ride and figure I'll be ready to go back to commuting on Monday. Slowly and painfully. I need to start riding so people in the elevator stop asking me why I'm not riding. I get concern from people who I basically don't even know except that I ride the elevator with them. -- Jay Beattie. "Luxos B dyno mood light"???? It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos? Andre Jute Reformed hypester |
#3
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote: After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure. The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. "Luxos B dyno mood light"???? It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos? The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien] -- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore. https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg |
#4
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 4:46:06 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote: After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure. The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. "Luxos B dyno mood light"???? It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos? The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien] -- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore. https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800 which requires charging but doesn't require a dyno hub, wiring and a separate light. There is a good reason why dyno lights have not captured the market. I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project. -- Jay Beattie. |
#5
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 2:40:13 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure. The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. I had to bend that bracket in the vice to make it closer to 90 degrees and then shortened up my FD cable just to make sure all the housings weren't whacking the light. I'm going to check the crank tomorrow since it was making a bunch of noise when I last commuted to work and throw on the winter tires. I struggled around today on a short ride and figure I'll be ready to go back to commuting on Monday. Slowly and painfully. I need to start riding so people in the elevator stop asking me why I'm not riding. I get concern from people who I basically don't even know except that I ride the elevator with them. -- Jay Beattie. Just wear your cycling clothes driving to work. Lou |
#6
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On 1/5/2020 7:46 AM, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote: After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure. The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. "Luxos B dyno mood light"???? It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos? The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien] -- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore. https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg A problem with beam shots is the apparent brightness is heavily influenced by camera settings - and I suppose with smart phones being used as cameras, the settings are probably hidden. So ISTM that a well executed beam shot can show something about beam shape and light distribution; but it doesn't necessarily show how well the headlamp illuminates the road. We're in an era of lumen wars. If someone posts a video of a bright that's infinitely bright, then contrasts it with one that's only half of infinity in brightness, that second one will look dim. Practically (or mathematically) that does _not_ prove it's insufficient. I'm not sure what the solution is. I don't have much hope for an industry enforced standard for headlight beam shots. Perhaps the best we can expect is to hope a website will include a beam shot of a headlight you're familiar with, and see how others look relative to it at (hopefully) the same camera settings. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#7
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On 1/5/2020 11:08 AM, jbeattie wrote:
Andre Jute wrote: what's wrong with the Luxos? Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800... Yep, lumen wars. And to continue the logic, the Urban 800 is dim at least compared to the Urban 1000; which is really dim compared to the Suburban 2500... and on and on. A motorcycle's low beam headlamp is maybe 750 lumens and is usually fine for 55 mph. It seems really weird to say you need to match that with a bike headlight. And we've talked about wet roads before; but last night, I was driving on a dark, newly paved and relatively empty four-lane state highway in the rain. For obvious optical reasons, I couldn't see my headlight beams on the wet road. If my headlights were ten times brighter, I still couldn't have seen them - but they sure would have been effective at blinding oncoming motorists. I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project. Do you own a multimeter? Seriously! We should be able to measure the hub's output. Also, I've got an almost unused Oculus headlight. On high, it is literally brighter than the sun. I'd be happy to trade for a Luxos. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#8
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 4:46:06 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote: Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote: After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure. The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. "Luxos B dyno mood light"???? It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos? The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien] -- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore. https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800 which requires charging but doesn't require a dyno hub, wiring and a separate light. There is a good reason why dyno lights have not captured the market. We could again argue about which of reasons are valid, lame, technology or culture specific, but the market shares are what they are. I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, Unlikely unless THEY put it on a rack in the way of the occasional ufo's hot magnetic beam exhaust. Hub power failures tend not to be gradual ones, unlike various effects of corrosion, current leakage, or led damage. but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project. Do Yourself In? Forget about Frank's multimeter then, you might poke your lawyer hands. Does your Specialized son still know how to feed a light bulb? You could have him test some clear (12..14V) automotive .4 or .5 amps bulb with the bike stationary and giving the SP wheel a good spin. If the bulb lights up reasonably bright, the generator is fine. |
#9
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 12:28:21 PM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 4:46:06 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote: Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote: After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure. The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. "Luxos B dyno mood light"???? It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos? The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien] -- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore. https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800 which requires charging but doesn't require a dyno hub, wiring and a separate light. There is a good reason why dyno lights have not captured the market. We could again argue about which of reasons are valid, lame, technology or culture specific, but the market shares are what they are. I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, Unlikely unless THEY put it on a rack in the way of the occasional ufo's hot magnetic beam exhaust. Hub power failures tend not to be gradual ones, unlike various effects of corrosion, current leakage, or led damage. but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project. Do Yourself In? Forget about Frank's multimeter then, you might poke your lawyer hands. Does your Specialized son still know how to feed a light bulb? You could have him test some clear (12..14V) automotive .4 or .5 amps bulb with the bike stationary and giving the SP wheel a good spin. If the bulb lights up reasonably bright, the generator is fine. I have a multimeter and did house wiring and low voltage wiring before and after getting lawyer hands. I even have alligator clips. I just fixed my toaster, damn it! And the solenoid in my 1950 Westminster chime Nutone door bell. I've put a multi-meter on it, and just looking at the output voltage doesn't say much, and I was thinking about testing it across a resistor. A light bulb as an indicator doesn't tell me much either except that the light bulb doesn't get that bright. I wonder if it should get brighter. -- Jay Beattie. |
#10
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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 12:02:24 PM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/5/2020 11:08 AM, jbeattie wrote: Andre Jute wrote: what's wrong with the Luxos? Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800... Yep, lumen wars. And to continue the logic, the Urban 800 is dim at least compared to the Urban 1000; which is really dim compared to the Suburban 2500... and on and on. A motorcycle's low beam headlamp is maybe 750 lumens and is usually fine for 55 mph. It seems really weird to say you need to match that with a bike headlight. And we've talked about wet roads before; but last night, I was driving on a dark, newly paved and relatively empty four-lane state highway in the rain. For obvious optical reasons, I couldn't see my headlight beams on the wet road. If my headlights were ten times brighter, I still couldn't have seen them - but they sure would have been effective at blinding oncoming motorists. I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project. |
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