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#1
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which torque wrench?
Should I buy for general bike work?
SW |
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#2
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which torque wrench?
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Should I buy for general bike work? SW Is it this one? http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/sto...602-54627.aspx |
#3
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which torque wrench?
On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 22:38:16 +0100, Steve Watkin wrote:
Should I buy for general bike work? I've got 3 torque wrenches, but don't use them for bike work, relying on calibrated wrists. Seriously, you need to get a feel for tightness, after all by the side of the road you won't have your torque wrench handy. I can only think of one nut/bolt on any of my bikes where rigorous attention to tightness is a necessity, and that's the rear wheel axle for horizontal drop-outs. Maybe seat pillar too, but with my sylph-like figure (cough) I don't need to worry. Mike |
#4
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which torque wrench?
Steve Watkin wrote:
. Should I buy for general bike work? Is it this one? http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/sto...602-54627.aspx That'll be OK for cranks, but too big & heavy & inaccurate at low settings for just about everything else on a bike. But you don't need a torque wrench for anything else, IMO. ~PB |
#5
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which torque wrench?
"Mike Causer" wrote in message newsan.2006.08.28.22.00.39.317126@firstnamelastn ame.com.invalid... On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 22:38:16 +0100, Steve Watkin wrote: Should I buy for general bike work? I've got 3 torque wrenches, but don't use them for bike work, relying on calibrated wrists. Seriously, you need to get a feel for tightness, after all by the side of the road you won't have your torque wrench handy. I can only think of one nut/bolt on any of my bikes where rigorous attention to tightness is a necessity, and that's the rear wheel axle for horizontal drop-outs. Maybe seat pillar too, but with my sylph-like figure (cough) I don't need to worry. I once read an article in Cars & Car Conversions where Dave Walker (big name in the car tuning world - actual race cars etc. not max power tat) had gone along to a torque wrench manufacturer and they'd had a couple of bolts mounted on stress gauges. They asked for a volunteer to do up a bolt with the torque wrench, so everyone could see how accurate it was. He went and did up the bolt with the torque wrench, then asked for a normal spanner and got the torque dead on by hand. |
#6
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which torque wrench?
"Mike Causer" wrote in message newsan.2006.08.28.22.00.39.317126@firstnamelastn ame.com.invalid... On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 22:38:16 +0100, Steve Watkin wrote: Should I buy for general bike work? I've got 3 torque wrenches, but don't use them for bike work, relying on calibrated wrists. Seriously, you need to get a feel for tightness, after all by the side of the road you won't have your torque wrench handy. I can only think of one nut/bolt on any of my bikes where rigorous attention to tightness is a necessity, and that's the rear wheel axle for horizontal drop-outs. Maybe seat pillar too, but with my sylph-like figure (cough) I don't need to worry. That's fine if you've used a torque wrench and know what you're aiming for. If you've never used a torque wrench, then just how tight should the below feel (using standard sized spanners/allen keys)? 5-7 Nm (eg front mech and cleat bolts) 9-11Nm (eg stem clamp bolts) 35Nm (eg pedal to crank) 50Nm(eg bottom bracket) (from http://www.sgr.me.uk/mountainbikingmeuk/torque.html) Thanks, Peter |
#7
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which torque wrench?
In article
Steve Watkin wrote: . Should I buy for general bike work? SW Is it this one? http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/sto...602-54627.aspx The only time I ever used a torque wrench on bikes was when rebuilding suspension forks, for that sort of application I think this would be more appropriate: http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/sto...049-58130.aspx but the torque range is still a bit high. Most other fastenings on a bike are pretty easy to tighten "by feel" if you have mechanical sympathy. |
#8
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which torque wrench?
Rob Morley Wrote: In article Steve Watkin wrote: . Should I buy for general bike work? SW Is it this one? http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/sto...602-54627.aspx The only time I ever used a torque wrench on bikes was when rebuilding suspension forks, for that sort of application I think this would be more appropriate: http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/sto...049-58130.aspx but the torque range is still a bit high. Most other fastenings on a bike are pretty easy to tighten "by feel" if you have mechanical sympathy. Surely you want this one http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html :-) Seriously I can;t really think of a time when I'd use a torque wrench, rather than a spanner. when it's tight, it's right. Bryan -- Bryan |
#9
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which torque wrench?
Rob Morley wrote:
http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/sto...049-58130.aspx but the torque range is still a bit high. Most other fastenings on a bike are pretty easy to tighten "by feel" if you have mechanical sympathy. Torque Screwdrivers are also available (used a lot in electronic and mechanical production environments). These have much lower torque ranges than a wrench. RS Components do a range, but many (not all) have no dial and have to be set up using additional measurement equipment. -adrian |
#10
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which torque wrench?
On Tue, 29 Aug 2006 08:24:36 +0000, Peter wrote:
If you've never used a torque wrench, then just how tight should the below feel (using standard sized spanners/allen keys)? 5-7 Nm (eg front mech and cleat bolts) Just tight 9-11Nm (eg stem clamp bolts) Just tight, then small amount of pressure more 35Nm (eg pedal to crank) Well tight 50Nm(eg bottom bracket) With a normal sized spanner quite an effort but not putting your full weight on it. Mike |
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