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#11
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soft shocks, adjustable?
I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to
spring for a new bike in the $500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on the bike in order for it to meet that price point. I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due both to the bike being ridden and the fact that the OP was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride on urban assaults. A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too valuable to huck around concrete curbs and metal signposts. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
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#12
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soft shocks, adjustable?
On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:12:55 GMT, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
wrote: I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the $500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on the bike in order for it to meet that price point. I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due both to the bike being ridden and the fact that the OP was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride on urban assaults. But doesn't he already have a low end dual suspension bike and isnt that what's causing him problems in the first place? We must be imaging entirely different scenarios here. If he is throwing the thing around then buying a new or used dual slalom/dirt jump frame (rather than a 3.5 lb XC frame) and sticking as large a tire as possible (pumped to a reasonable pressure) on it would allow him to shell out plenty of abuse. If money is super tight he can get dig up a department store rigid frame and save his money for a decent fork, I can't imagine the fork that would come on a $500 FS would cope with BMX style riding anyway. With the exception of the goofball riding his 8" travel downhill bike off a curb, proper technique will have to be learned regardless. A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too valuable to huck around concrete curbs and metal signposts. No hardtail would be appropriate to replace a frame with a nonadjustable shock which nearly bottoms out when he wheelies and which has bent bolts where the shock mounts to the frame? Instead he should use a 2 or 3 inch travel $500 full suspension bike (equipped with discs of course!) which will have what quality of shock absorber??? -- Chris Bird |
#13
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soft shocks, adjustable?
Heres what ive got:
I have a Roadmaster steel dual suspension with a junk fornt fork, and junk rear shock, I ride it every once in a while when going off road, mostly trails and some hardcore with friends, its held up ok. 39LBS I have a huffy aluminum hardtail with a ok front fork. Thats my daily rider, its got slicks in the middle and knobs on the outside, so its mostly road. 34LBS And a skinny tired road bike, mostly for long rides with no trails. I want the wing elite for a much more reliable bike. I assume its more reliable then a wal-mart bike. Something i can ride road (for training. sinice its DS and knobbies) and for trail riding. If i did get teh bike, i might invest in a rear shock with lockouts. Its basicly a biek i can buy for cheap, with a fairly nice frame, that in the future i can slowly buy better parts. anyone knwo what the weight is on that bike |
#14
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soft shocks, adjustable?
"Chris B." wrote in message ... On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 21:12:55 GMT, "Phil, Squid-in-Training" wrote: I'm going to ignore Phil here and suggest that if you are going to spring for a new bike in the $500 price range that you get a hardtail or possibly a used full suspension (the wear complicates matters). It's not a question of snobbery on my part (my hardtail cost about $500 in good used parts), it's just that it really is better to have a good/great fork on a good frame than a full suspension with so-so shocks loaded with the so-so performing goodies that have to be spec'd on the bike in order for it to meet that price point. I recommended a low-end dual-susp because it appears that the OP was VERY tight on money, due both to the bike being ridden and the fact that the OP was looking for a tweak on his crapo bike to ride on urban assaults. But doesn't he already have a low end dual suspension bike and isnt that what's causing him problems in the first place? We must be imaging entirely different scenarios here. If he is throwing the thing around then buying a new or used dual slalom/dirt jump frame (rather than a 3.5 lb XC frame) and sticking as large a tire as possible (pumped to a reasonable pressure) on it would allow him to shell out plenty of abuse. If money is super tight he can get dig up a department store rigid frame and save his money for a decent fork, I can't imagine the fork that would come on a $500 FS would cope with BMX style riding anyway. With the exception of the goofball riding his 8" travel downhill bike off a curb, proper technique will have to be learned regardless. A hardtail wouldn't be appropriate, and an expensive DS might be too valuable to huck around concrete curbs and metal signposts. No hardtail would be appropriate to replace a frame with a nonadjustable shock which nearly bottoms out when he wheelies and which has bent bolts where the shock mounts to the frame? Instead he should use a 2 or 3 inch travel $500 full suspension bike (equipped with discs of course!) which will have what quality of shock absorber??? Decent quality isn't the issue here. Well it doesn't SEEM to be the issue to me. I think that the price really is the limiting factor at this point. It seems that TJ wants another DS to replace the current DS. And he let us know that he's got a HT too. TJ, if you have the money, by all means go out and buy a DECENT bike from a bike shop. They will have quality much higher than what you've ridden so far, and you will take it and not look back. If you don't have the money, then by all means, keep your stable current with a new DS and your HT and RB. Just be careful. But don't settle for Walmart bikes for your entire life. I was in your position just a year ago. I decided to build up my first non-walmart bike out of parts from eBay. When I was done, I said, "Holy ****, I can't keep the front end down because it's so light! It spins a bit faster and it's much plusher and I can do a few more tricks on it now that it's lighter." Think about it. We all urge you not to dump money into superstore crap, when it can be used towards something that's pretty damn good. Ask a local bike shop if you can put a full-value deposit (in the form of a personal check) down while you ride it for a day. Most won't let you do that, but at least a ride in the parking lot will let you know what's available. -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
#15
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soft shocks, adjustable?
The wal mart bikes i have now will definatly be the last. The road
bike is a mid range (well i think so anyway) road bike from a while ago, so its plently reliable, so i will keep that. But i will be really happy when I finally get a real bike. |
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