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A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)



 
 
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  #11  
Old May 1st 08, 12:53 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
kington99
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


mcnuggets300 wrote:
whats wrong with cutting a seat post with a hacksaw?
thats how i did mine, then file the burs off it and finish the inside
with a rat-tail.





nothing, except you have to file the burs off it and finish the inside
with a rat-tail. Both are perfectly good, but given the option the tube
cutter is preferable.


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  #12  
Old May 1st 08, 03:47 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
OneWheelLess
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


kington99 wrote:
nothing, except you have to file the burs off it and finish the inside
with a rat-tail. Both are perfectly good, but given the option the tube
cutter is preferable.



Yes, I agree, however some tubing cutters are only designed for copper,
and may not be strong enough to cut steel (it could break the cutter).
The tubing cutters that I have available to me are designed for copper
and pvc, and would not hold up to steel. If you try the cutter and it
does not appear to be working, don't force it to much! Good luck!


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  #13  
Old May 1st 08, 11:34 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Unisykolist
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


sometimes its hard to get the hacksaw to cut dead strait at the start.
if the tube cutter duznt work, shoud i use metal razor thing or a
hacksaw?


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  #14  
Old May 2nd 08, 12:00 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
skilewis74
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


The other thing w/ using a hacksaw is it's hard to cut it streight
accross.

What I did is I put marks on the post every inch w/ an old seraten
knife. Then I put it in the frame w/ one of the marks barely showing
and put a line all the way aroung the post w/ the knife or saw. Take
the post out, put it in a vise and cut off just an inch at a time
untill it feels right (this should leave enough if you later realize
you cut off an inch too much and lots of room to adjust as you grow).


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  #15  
Old May 2nd 08, 12:02 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
jamessd
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


skilewis74 wrote:
The other thing w/ using a hacksaw is it's hard to cut it streight
accross.




But how does that matter...


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  #16  
Old May 2nd 08, 03:06 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
johnfoss
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


Hacksaw:
- Cut might be crooked (aesthetically bad, otherwise not a problem)
- Lots of energy required (or mine's really dull)
- Careful not to crush the seatpost in your vice
- Less filing required than with pipe cutter, in my experience

Pipe cutter:
- Must be heavy duty to safely hold up. I've broken several cheap ones!
Now I have a nice one that's supposed to be able to cut steel (I've
used it on alloy so far)
- Much easier to use, long as you do it right
- Straight cut
- In my experience, more filing is needed to make safe edges when
finished (esp. on the inside)

When cutting, your goal is to have as much post as will fit into the
uni when you have it at it's lowest setting. Remember, longer cranks
means lower seat, but if you go shorter in the future, you have to
raise the seat. Also if different-sized people are going to ride your
uni from time to time.

DM, Hunter, Miyata, Pashley, Schwinn, Telford, Zephr: all brands of
unicycle or unicycle builder. Search on them for more info.

OOW: On One Wheel, quarterly publication from the Unicycling Society of
America. 'Membership's open to anyone'
(http://www.unicyclingusa.org/join/).

WOW, RTUC, TCUC: American unicycle clubs. Search on them for more info.


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  #17  
Old May 2nd 08, 11:49 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Unisykolist
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


jamessd wrote:
But how does that matter...



you can put scratches on the seat post...


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  #18  
Old May 2nd 08, 11:59 AM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
Hazmat
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


Unisykolist wrote:
you can put scratches on the seat post...



or worse.....


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  #19  
Old May 2nd 08, 01:08 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
joemarshall
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


johnfoss wrote:

When cutting, your goal is to have as much post as will fit into the
uni when you have it at it's lowest setting. Remember, longer cranks
means lower seat, but if you go shorter in the future, you have to
raise the seat. Also if different-sized people are going to ride your
uni from time to time.




It might not make a massive difference, but for some absolute weight
weenies weight is also worth thinking about when you're cutting the
post. 100mm less of aluminium seatpost = roughly 70g of weight savings
(this is the reason for the difference in weight between the KH
seatposts (long) and the koxx lightweight seatposts (short) ).

Also, is it just me who has never filed off the end of a post - I've
always just pipe cuttered it and left it, I don't think my posts are
particularly sharp or anything, I can run my finger against them and it
doesn't cut me.

Joe


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  #20  
Old May 2nd 08, 02:27 PM posted to rec.sport.unicycling
jamessd
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Default A whole lotta Questions! (so i dont make up 5 threads of 5 diffrent questions)


Unisykolist wrote:
you can put scratches on the seat post...



How can the end of a seatpost scratch itself?

And ''aesthetically bad'' ... you can't even see the bottom of the
seatpost !


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Kieron wrote:
I tell u wat they would have to be a very commited pedo to learn to ride
a unicycle in order to mingle with us, steel one of us and rape us in a
bush.

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