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#11
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-25 16:47, Gregory Sutter wrote:
On 2017-03-25, Joerg wrote: Some day when I am fully retired I want to hike the whole singletrack to Placerville instead of using the MTB. It would be an all day affair. Do it on a weekend, or take a vacation day! No need to wait for the indefinite future. Sunday is church which I won't miss and Saturday is "honey do list day". But it won't be long because I am self-employed and already beginning to throttle down. In part to be able to ride more. SWMBO said that if I give her one day a week for chores I could vanish a whole weekday. Deal :-) The other benefit of an all day affair is that I could ride 100mi or more and thus get to farther out places or do the Rubicon trail on the MTB. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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#12
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#13
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. -- Jay Beattie. |
#14
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 3/26/2017 10:29 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. -- Jay Beattie. IIRC, I had a local shop, who owned the Phil tool, re-cut some spokes I had. I was surprised that they were willing to do it for less than the cost of new spokes, but they were. I really hate throwing functioning items away. Mark J. |
#15
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 3/26/2017 2:20 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/26/2017 10:29 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. -- Jay Beattie. IIRC, I had a local shop, who owned the Phil tool, re-cut some spokes I had. I was surprised that they were willing to do it for less than the cost of new spokes, but they were. I really hate throwing functioning items away. I do too. But I'm sure that when I die, my heirs will do it for me. That includes hundreds of spokes. For our bike club, I've proposed a Saddle Swap Day. Most cyclists I know seem to have several saddles that didn't work for them, but might work for others. But I think a Spoke Swap Day would generate too little interest. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#16
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a whole wheel is just not my thing. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm. On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke diameter. Or more. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#17
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 12:58:43 -0700, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a whole wheel is just not my thing. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm. On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke diameter. Or more. I believe that the thickest "standard" spoke is a 13 (US/British) gauge which is 2.3mm in diameter and I believe that most sports bikes use double butted spokes, as you have. But it might be that "single butted" spokes, i.e., 2.3mm the whole length are used on touring bikes. I see DT Swiss straight 13 gauge spokes listed on e-bay but I don't see them on DT Swiss's web pages although they do advertises a single butted "Sapim Strong Single Butted Spoke" that measures 2.3mm at the hub end and 2.0 at the threaded end. I've also seen galvanized "electric bike" 13 gauge spokes advertised on e-bay. On the other hand Peter White ( www.peterwhitecycles.com ) will give a lifetime guarantee on any wheel that he builds "according to his recommendation". As he has been doing this for something like 30 years I assume that he knows what he is doing. -- Cheers, John B. |
#18
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 3/27/2017 3:58 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a whole wheel is just not my thing. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm. On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke diameter. Or more. I've suggested before that you use motorcycle gauge spokes. And tires. -- - Frank Krygowski |
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 at 12:06:46 AM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/27/2017 3:58 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a whole wheel is just not my thing. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm. On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke diameter. Or more. I've suggested before that you use motorcycle gauge spokes. And tires. -- - Frank Krygowski He should just get a motorcycle and convert it to pedal power. Cheers |
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-27 19:20, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 12:58:43 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a whole wheel is just not my thing. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm. On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke diameter. Or more. I believe that the thickest "standard" spoke is a 13 (US/British) gauge which is 2.3mm in diameter and I believe that most sports bikes use double butted spokes, as you have. But it might be that "single butted" spokes, i.e., 2.3mm the whole length are used on touring bikes. I see DT Swiss straight 13 gauge spokes listed on e-bay but I don't see them on DT Swiss's web pages although they do advertises a single butted "Sapim Strong Single Butted Spoke" that measures 2.3mm at the hub end and 2.0 at the threaded end. I've also seen galvanized "electric bike" 13 gauge spokes advertised on e-bay. You can buy complete wheels with 12 gauge spokes, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-.../dp/B006FCHTZQ But first I have to find out two things. The axle dimension (beats me why they don't state that in the specs) and I also have to somehow get out my BB because that's now shot as well. And before doing that I've got to fix the rear end of my MTB so I will not be sans bike. Now I understand why some folks have 5-6 bikes :-) On the other hand Peter White ( www.peterwhitecycles.com ) will give a lifetime guarantee on any wheel that he builds "according to his recommendation". As he has been doing this for something like 30 years I assume that he knows what he is doing. He probably doesn't know where I am riding and with what sort of load :-) I even broke spokes on bikes assembled and tuned by professionals. My main concern is Murphy's law because it states that if there is a spoke failure that is impossible to trim out well enough this will be at the farthest point from home. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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