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#11
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Yet another broken spoke
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com wrote:
On Sep 2, 10:24 am, Just A User wrote: It happened again! I broke ANOTHER spoke on my road bike. This makes the second break in a month maybe a month and a half. Now I know I don't have the lightest riding style compared to some riders. And I am not the lightest of all riders. But then again I am riding on 32 triple cross wheels. What I don't understand is why am I breaking them on the front wheel only? I thought the back wheel carried more weight. So I have a few extra spokes I bought when I had the wheel at the lbs for the last spoke replacement. But now I am thinking that a new / better machine built wheel, or cough, a handbuilt wheels might be a more reliable way to go. When I say handbuilt, I mean with my hands, that have no experience building wheels. All opinions welcome. J.A.U. Can you reuse the front hub? If ya can, get some spokes and a rim and a coupla books and build the wheel..not rocket surgery. Or take or send the hub to somebody and have them build ya a wheel...we do this sort of thing all the time. Yeah the front hub looks okay, it's a cheap hub anyway. The wheel doesn't even look that bad. I just put another spoke in it and trued it by eye, should be good enough until I can order a truing stand and give it a proper job. |
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#12
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Yet another broken spoke
On Sep 2, 3:16 pm, Just A User wrote:
landotter wrote: On Sep 2, 12:33 pm, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote: On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 17:09:07 -0000, landotter wrote: On Sep 2, 11:24 am, Just A User wrote: It happened again! I broke ANOTHER spoke on my road bike. This makes the second break in a month maybe a month and a half. Now I know I don't have the lightest riding style compared to some riders. And I am not the lightest of all riders. But then again I am riding on 32 triple cross wheels. What I don't understand is why am I breaking them on the front wheel only? I thought the back wheel carried more weight. So I have a few extra spokes I bought when I had the wheel at the lbs for the last spoke replacement. But now I am thinking that a new / better machine built wheel, or cough, a handbuilt wheels might be a more reliable way to go. When I say handbuilt, I mean with my hands, that have no experience building wheels. All opinions welcome. A front is good to learn on. Sheldon Brown's site has good instruction. The lacing seems hard till you do it three times, then you can do it in yer sleep. I like to stress relieve, AKA bed the spokes into the flange, after I've tensioned the wheel up, by putting the axle on a block of wood and working my way around the rim, giving it a pretty hefty push. Then retrue. Should last you a lifetime. Take your time building up tension, and do lace it up with an electric driver from the back side so you don't get carpal tunnel issues. And be SURE the spokes are tensioned adequately. Loose spokes break. Tight spokes don't (as a general rule of thumb) Ja--an alternative is simply to bring the current wheel up to tension. Same goes for factory wheels--I dialed in my current set 3K ago and have been over hill and dale with them and still they're bang on. However, the current wheels' spokes have been stressed if they are currently loose, undergoing the mysterious "coat hanger" effect, so still a liability. If on a budget, it's worth a shot, though. Well I think I am going to invest in a truing stand and then I will true it out and see how it works out for me. In the mean time I just popped another spoke in there and trued it out by eye. It's not perfect but it's good enough to ride on for a bit. Truing stand? You don't need no steenkin' stand for a touch up--rubber band a pencil to the stays, or use the brake pads. Now, I gotta run and JB Weld something... |
#13
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Yet another broken spoke
On Sep 2, 11:24 am, Just A User wrote:
It happened again! I broke ANOTHER spoke on my road bike. This makes the second break in a month maybe a month and a half. Now I know I don't have the lightest riding style compared to some riders. And I am not the lightest of all riders. But then again I am riding on 32 triple cross wheels. What I don't understand is why am I breaking them on the front wheel only? I thought the back wheel carried more weight. So I have a few extra spokes I bought when I had the wheel at the lbs for the last spoke replacement. But now I am thinking that a new / better machine built wheel, or cough, a handbuilt wheels might be a more reliable way to go. When I say handbuilt, I mean with my hands, that have no experience building wheels. All opinions welcome. J.A.U. Just another opinion, but I cured all my spoke breakage problems by getting a hand-built set of wheels four years ago. I've never broken a spoke and haven't even had to re-true them once. They cost around $225 if memory serves me correctly. They were built on Ultegra hubs with Mavic CXP-33 rims and a 36 spoke 3X pattern. I ride on rough washboarded gravel roads and a lot of rough chip seal road. There are lots of good builders around, including our own Pete Chisholm, Peter White, and several others. A good set of hand-built wheels will give you many years of service. Smokey |
#14
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Yet another broken spoke
On Sep 2, 3:11 pm, Peter Cole wrote:
Just A User wrote: It happened again! I broke ANOTHER spoke on my road bike. This makes the second break in a month maybe a month and a half. Now I know I don't have the lightest riding style compared to some riders. And I am not the lightest of all riders. But then again I am riding on 32 triple cross wheels. What I don't understand is why am I breaking them on the front wheel only? I thought the back wheel carried more weight. So I have a few extra spokes I bought when I had the wheel at the lbs for the last spoke replacement. But now I am thinking that a new / better machine built wheel, or cough, a handbuilt wheels might be a more reliable way to go. When I say handbuilt, I mean with my hands, that have no experience building wheels. All opinions welcome. J.A.U. I would just bring the wheel up to (even) tension & stress relieve it well. If it still breaks spokes, you could respoke. I prefer to buy machine made wheels, simply because they're cheaper than the parts and save some time lacing. I just tension & stress relieve. I've done that on many sets of wheels with no breakage problems. I've done that many times as well, before I took time to learn to lace. I'd still do it for something common and good like Ultegra/OP/ DB, which is available for under $250 a pair online. Ten minutes with a spoke wrench, and those wheels are good for years. |
#15
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Yet another broken spoke
Clare who? writes:
And be SURE the spokes are tensioned adequately. Loose spokes break. Tight spokes don't (as a general rule of thumb) I keep seeing this admonition yet no one seems to be able to describe the mechanism that causes such spoke failures. Loosely spoked wheels can allow the nipples to unscrew and cause wheel misalignment, but spoke failure is caused by metal fatigue that arises from tension change, caused once with every wheel rotation as spokes pass through the zone of tire contact with the road. This must occur with stress near the yield stress, something that does not readily occur in loose spokes. Please explain. Jobst Brandt |
#17
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Yet another broken spoke
Clare who? writes:
And be SURE the spokes are tensioned adequately. Loose spokes break. Tight spokes don't (as a general rule of thumb) I keep seeing this admonition yet no one seems to be able to describe the mechanism that causes such spoke failures. Loosely spoked wheels can allow the nipples to unscrew and cause wheel misalignment, but spoke failure is caused by metal fatigue that arises from tension change, caused once with every wheel rotation as spokes pass through the zone of tire contact with the road. This must occur with stress near the yield stress, something that does not readily occur in loose spokes. Please explain. A properly tensioned spoke is "pre stretched" and does not flex or stretch in operation. A loose spoke bends at least twice every revolution, and stretches repeatedly. This is what fatigues a spoke and breaks it. Please explain what bends the spokes. Rim deflection is a few thousandths of an inch, the spoke holes in the flange have 10 to 20 thousandths clearance and spoke nipples much more. Where is this fatiguing compression force arising? Spokes do not go into column buckling when slack. I have a feeling the concept requires some exaggerated model of a spoke that is less than properly tight. The bending of which you speak cannot occur and cause fatiguing stress. To do that the bend would need to approach yield (permanent deformation). To see what that is, try how much of a bend it takes to put a bend in a spoke by manually using it as a walking cane. Jobst Brandt |
#18
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Yet another broken spoke
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#19
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Yet another broken spoke
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#20
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Yet another broken spoke
Just A User wrote:
It happened again! I broke ANOTHER spoke on my road bike. This makes the second break in a month maybe a month and a half. Now I know I don't have the lightest riding style compared to some riders. And I am not the lightest of all riders. But then again I am riding on 32 triple cross wheels. What I don't understand is why am I breaking them on the front wheel only? I thought the back wheel carried more weight. So I have a few extra spokes I bought when I had the wheel at the lbs for the last spoke replacement. But now I am thinking that a new / better machine built wheel, or cough, a handbuilt wheels might be a more reliable way to go. When I say handbuilt, I mean with my hands, that have no experience building wheels. All opinions welcome. J.A.U. has anybody yet bothered to ask the most important question? "what brand are the spokes"??? this is the most important issue. you need to have good quality spokes to resist fatigue - they're made from fatigue resistant material. if your current spokes are some cheap no-name brand, i would re-spoke to ensure reliability, especially as front wheels don't see as extreme stress cycles as dished rears. |
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