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#1
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DONE IT! Scored meself a Fixie!!!
Koon Yong Wrote: good job flyingdutch welcome to the club ... maybe all the fixers in melb should start meeting up at the park or something like the NY messengers do at central park. hanging out and watching bike porn. way cool cheers koon ...not up for that racing to specified location thing just yet like in them videos tho! the gathering sounds like a cool idea. Found out some more details from the shed... Triple Butted 'EX' tubing, cromo 'Ishiwata' says the sticker on the seat tube The BCD on the crankset matches my older mtb gear so looks like a replacement/smaller? chainring isnt gonna be a drama. Says Sugin GT on the crank arm The sizing is actually pretty near spot on for me. 54.5cm x 54.5cm. The rear end isnt overly tight as there is a 1-1.5cm gap between the tyre and seatpost. always assumed track bikes would be as tight as possible. the hub holds a 15T on one side and a 17T on the other so with the current 48T that gives me 76" or 86". bit big for my hilly commute, me thinks to start with. maybe getting back to a 44Tx17T for a 70" is about right? its got clinchers on so that's one less thing to sort out :-) Suzue 'Sprint' high flange hubs and Mavic Ma-2 (i think) rims. are track rims built for braking? The spoking pattern is standard but with wierd little 'bands' holding the overlapping spokes tightly together. never seen that. strength i guess... there's only a few scratches on it and minimal rust in them. The rear dropouts have 'Sugino 10mm' on them. is this the 'gap' width where the axles rests? but the angles do look steeper as mentioned by a few above. Can this be alleviated by forks with longer rake? Is there a standard fork rake for track bikes that these current forks are likely to be? The number 42mm is stuck in my head. is that the standard-ish roadbike rake? and are track bike shorter? How can I get that fork and rear brake bridge drilled to take brakes? Should I be doing both front and rear brakes to avoid the base-over-apex dismount in emergency stops? -- flyingdutch |
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#2
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DONE IT! Scored meself a Fixie!!!
flyingdutch wrote:
Koon Yong Wrote: snipped Sounds great. The spoking pattern is standard but with wierd little 'bands' holding the overlapping spokes tightly together. never seen that. strength i guess... They're tied & soldered spokes. -- Nick |
#3
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DONE IT! Scored meself a Fixie!!!
flyingdutch wrote:
How can I get that fork and rear brake bridge drilled to take brakes? Should I be doing both front and rear brakes to avoid the base-over-apex dismount in emergency stops? My experience has been that just a front brake, with good pads, is plenty. You will be amazed how much you can control your speed with just the pedals - add a front brake and you should have all the stopping power you need. BUT - you will find that you are a different rider on the fixie, well I did any way. I find myself taking much more notice of how and where I am riding and (subconsciously?) doing all I can to avoid an emergency stop. Brian |
#4
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DONE IT! Scored meself a Fixie!!!
"flyingdutch" wrote in message ... The sizing is actually pretty near spot on for me. 54.5cm x 54.5cm. The rear end isnt overly tight as there is a 1-1.5cm gap between the tyre and seatpost. always assumed track bikes would be as tight as possible. The distance between the wheel and seat tube depends on the length of your chain!! You need some gap to allow you to push the wheel towards the seat tube, so you can get the chain off the front chainring, then off the rear cog, so you can remove the wheel without having to break the chain.... its got clinchers on so that's one less thing to sort out :-) Suzue 'Sprint' high flange hubs and Mavic Ma-2 (i think) rims. are track rims built for braking? Those rims were commonly used on the road (they're not track-spefiic) The spoking pattern is standard but with wierd little 'bands' holding the overlapping spokes tightly together. never seen that. strength i guess... They're little bits of wire, with solder (tied and soldered spokes). They used to belive that that made a wheel more rigid (it doesn't). They do help if you break a spoke though, they don't escape.... How can I get that fork and rear brake bridge drilled to take brakes? Should I be doing both front and rear brakes to avoid the base-over-apex dismount in emergency stops? Just get a fork 2nd hand to use a front brake on, don't worry about a back brake. You'll want to keep the un-drilled fork for the track, when you give it a go... *grin* Cheers Gemm riding a very unfashionable Raceline track machine..... |
#5
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DONE IT! Scored meself a Fixie!!!
Gemma Kernich wrote - Cheers Gemm riding a very unfashionable Raceline track machine..... Gemm - Howdya like the Raceline - have heard its not a bad machine for a novice on the track - your views from experience ? best, Andrew (remove the .x1 to reply) |
#6
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DONE IT! Scored meself a Fixie!!!
"Andrew Price" wrote in message ... Gemm - Howdya like the Raceline - have heard its not a bad machine for a novice on the track - your views from experience ? Hi Andrew, Actually, it wasn't my first track bike (rode a steel one for a season). I didn't like the build-kit on the Raceline as standard, so haggled with the shop and ended up just getting frame and fork, and built up the rest with a miche groupset, wolber singles rims, deda pista bars, zepp stem, etc. The frame is actually really nice, nice and stiff compared to the noodly steel one I was on before (I'm a big lass, see previous thread on big arsed aus.bicycle awards). Email me for more details can send pics etc. Apparently this year's Raceline model will be readily available just as a frame and fork set, in a silver colour (for those sick of white!) Cheers Gemma |
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