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OT- UV cured adhesive
Apologies to those that don't want off topic posts. I've just learned of UV cured adhesives and was wondering if anyone has a first hand experience using the stuff to fix things (around the house) in an expeditious manner. Apparently was developed for bonding glass to other substrates. It seems layer by layer cure might be useful around the home though. Anyone??
Thanks , Regards, Pat |
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OT- UV cured adhesive
On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 16:16:35 -0800, patrick wrote:
Apologies to those that don't want off topic posts. I've just learned of UV cured adhesives and was wondering if anyone has a first hand experience using the stuff to fix things (around the house) in an expeditious manner. No, for the reason that I've never seen it in the hardware stores. A possible reason for that is that it comes in many "grades" depending on factors like substrate, use and curing power. e.g. http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/...cision-treepdf. Apparently was developed for bonding glass to other substrates. It seems layer by layer cure might be useful around the home though. Anyone?? The only place I've ever seen it used is at the dentist. Given the requirement of UV exposure to cure it, unless your layering clear/translucent materials, how would you layer and glue at the same time? Unless you are building up or coating a surface perhaps. |
#3
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OT- UV cured adhesive
On Tue, 3 Dec 2019 01:37:37 -0000 (UTC), news18
wrote: On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 16:16:35 -0800, patrick wrote: Apologies to those that don't want off topic posts. I've just learned of UV cured adhesives and was wondering if anyone has a first hand experience using the stuff to fix things (around the house) in an expeditious manner. I never fix things in an expeditious manner. I prefer to do repairs slowly and carefully. With my non-production and small number of repairs, efficiency is not a consideration. Perhaps you meant in a reliable manner as in not having to repeat the repair after the glued joint breaks. No, for the reason that I've never seen it in the hardware stores. I've been playing with Zap It, by the SuperGlueCorp.com people. I sorta blundered across it at the local Ace hardware sto https://supergluecorp.com/product/zap-it/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg1zRNQISyU (2:10) I paid $10 for 4 oz or $2.50/oz. The stuff I was using was intended for dentists and cost me about $10/oz. That got my attention. A possible reason for that is that it comes in many "grades" depending on factors like substrate, use and curing power. e.g. http://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/content/...cision-treepdf. Apparently was developed for bonding glass to other substrates. It seems layer by layer cure might be useful around the home though. Anyone?? The only place I've ever seen it used is at the dentist. UV cure adhesives are used for plastic welding for tacking parts together. Also in electronic assembly to secure wires, and parts before wave, IR, or vapor reflow soldering. I'd rather not mention my use to avoid topic drift. Suffice to say that it has nothing to do with bicycles. More uses: Top 10 Uses for UV Curing Adhesives https://www.ellsworthadhesives.co.uk/top-10-uses-for-uv-curing-adhesives/ UV Curable Systems https://www.masterbond.com/products/uv-curable-systems Given the requirement of UV exposure to cure it, unless your layering clear/translucent materials, how would you layer and glue at the same time? Unless you are building up or coating a surface perhaps. Not a problem, at least with the Zap It product. If I don't expose it to UV light, it sets up and cures much like any common cyanoacrylate adhesive, in 1 to 2 minutes. All the UV light does is dramatically accelerate the process to about 1 second set-up time. If you're going though thick layers of translucent plastic or glass, it helps to use shorter wavelengths. There's some magic involved in selecting the proper combination of UV brightness, wavelength, heating, penetration, cost, etc. Some details on the selection of UV LED wavelength and such: Select the most effective wavelength for an LED system (for medical system): https://www.mddionline.com/select-most-effective-wavelength-led-system Advancements in UV LED Curing Technology for Adhesives https://www.adhesivesmag.com/articles/92958-advancements-in-uv-led-curing-technology-for-adhesives As for my experience using the stuff, I find it much the same as ordinary cyanoacrylate adhesive. Surface preparation is still important. It won't glue everything to everything else. Some materials don't work. Others, like porous surfaces, require sealing. It might be strong, but it's also quite brittle. The joint can be attacked by same the chemicals (acetone and most alkali liquids). And yes, you can also glue your fingers to the workpiece. The only big difference is the very fast UV cure. Drivel: My daily footwear are construction boots with hard rubber soles. Near the end of their useful life, they tend to crack. Before pieces fall off, I usually glue them together with some cyanoacrylate adhesive. I then have to hold the glue joint together for up to 10 minutes for the glue to set-up. If I move, the joint is weakened or ruined. There must be a better way. I recently tried the Zap It UV cure glue. After slopping on the glue and giving it a quick blast of UV light, the edges stuck together quite nicely. Obviously, light could not enter past the edge of the joint as the rubber is optically opaque. After about 15 minutes, the areas where light did NOT hit set up, and so far (about 4 weeks), the glue joint has held together. Note that this works nicely for parts of the show sole that do NOT flex, and very badly on parts that do flex. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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OT- UV cured adhesive
On Mon, 02 Dec 2019 22:03:34 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: I've been playing with Zap It, by the SuperGlueCorp.com people. I sorta blundered across it at the local Ace hardware sto https://supergluecorp.com/product/zap-it/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg1zRNQISyU (2:10) I paid $10 for 4 oz or $2.50/oz. The stuff I was using was intended for dentists and cost me about $10/oz. That got my attention. Oops. I wrote oz when I should have written grams. That would be $10 for 4 grams or $2.50/gram and $10/gram. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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OT- UV cured adhesive
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
rivel: My daily footwear are construction boots with hard rubber :soles. Near the end of their useful life, they tend to crack. Before ieces fall off, I usually glue them together with some cyanoacrylate :adhesive. I then have to hold the glue joint together for up to 10 :minutes for the glue to set-up. If I move, the joint is weakened or :ruined. There must be a better way. I use this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/Stick-Fast-.../dp/B008AGVJ1U Works with any CA adhesive I've tried it with. It can be applied pre-assembly (glue on one side, activator the other.), or post assembly. There are other brands, my imprssion is that they all work the same. -- sig 35 |
#6
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OT- UV cured adhesive
On Tue, 3 Dec 2019 21:37:59 +0000 (UTC), David Scheidt
wrote: Jeff Liebermann wrote: rivel: My daily footwear are construction boots with hard rubber :soles. Near the end of their useful life, they tend to crack. Before ieces fall off, I usually glue them together with some cyanoacrylate :adhesive. I then have to hold the glue joint together for up to 10 :minutes for the glue to set-up. If I move, the joint is weakened or :ruined. There must be a better way. I use this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/Stick-Fast-.../dp/B008AGVJ1U Works with any CA adhesive I've tried it with. It can be applied pre-assembly (glue on one side, activator the other.), or post assembly. There are other brands, my imprssion is that they all work the same. I use chlorine bleach and water as an accelerator. Something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Kdyme391Bg Most water based alkaline liquid sprays will work as an accelerator. 91% isopropyl alcohol spray might work. 70% has too much water and 99% doesn't have enough water. I've only played with alcohol once and am not sure (yet) if it's a good idea. The commercial accelerators use various aromatic amines, as itemized in: "Accelerator for cyanoacrylates" https://patents.google.com/patent/US6251818B1/en A UV activator (accelerator) has the advantage of not making a mess when sprayed on the work piece. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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