DONE IT! Scored meself a Fixie!!!

Koon Yong Wrote:
good job flyingdutch
welcome to the club ... maybe all the fixers in melb should start
meeting up at the park or something like the NY messengers do at
central park.
hanging out and watching bike porn. way cool
cheers
koon

...not up for that racing to specified location thing just yet like in
them videos tho!
the gathering sounds like a cool idea.
Found out some more details from the shed...

Triple Butted 'EX' tubing, cromo 'Ishiwata' says the sticker on the
seat tube

The BCD on the crankset matches my older mtb gear so looks like a
replacement/smaller? chainring isnt gonna be a drama. Says Sugin GT on
the crank arm

The sizing is actually pretty near spot on for me. 54.5cm x 54.5cm. The
rear end isnt overly tight as there is a 1-1.5cm gap between the tyre
and seatpost. always assumed track bikes would be as tight as
possible.

the hub holds a 15T on one side and a 17T on the other
so with the current 48T that gives me 76" or 86". bit big for my hilly
commute, me thinks to start with. maybe getting back to a 44Tx17T for a
70" is about right?

its got clinchers on so that's one less thing to sort out :-)
Suzue 'Sprint' high flange hubs and Mavic Ma-2 (i think) rims. are
track rims built for braking?
The spoking pattern is standard but with wierd little 'bands' holding
the overlapping spokes tightly together. never seen that. strength i
guess...

there's only a few scratches on it and minimal rust in them.
The rear dropouts have 'Sugino 10mm' on them. is this the 'gap' width
where the axles rests?

but the angles do look steeper as mentioned by a few above.
Can this be alleviated by forks with longer rake? Is there a standard
fork rake for track bikes that these current forks are likely to be?
The number 42mm is stuck in my head. is that the standard-ish roadbike
rake? and are track bike shorter?

How can I get that fork and rear brake bridge drilled to take brakes?
Should I be doing both front and rear brakes to avoid the
base-over-apex dismount in emergency stops?


--
flyingdutch

flyingdutch wrote:

Koon Yong Wrote:

snipped

Sounds great.

The spoking pattern is standard but with wierd little 'bands' holding
the overlapping spokes tightly together. never seen that. strength i
guess...


They're tied & soldered spokes.

--
Nick

flyingdutch wrote:

How can I get that fork and rear brake bridge drilled to take brakes?
Should I be doing both front and rear brakes to avoid the
base-over-apex dismount in emergency stops?

My experience has been that just a front brake, with good pads, is
plenty. You will be amazed how much you can control your speed with
just the pedals - add a front brake and you should have all the stopping
power you need.

BUT - you will find that you are a different rider on the fixie, well I
did any way. I find myself taking much more notice of how and where I
am riding and (subconsciously?) doing all I can to avoid an emergency stop.

Brian

"flyingdutch" wrote in
message ...
The sizing is actually pretty near spot on for me. 54.5cm x 54.5cm. The
rear end isnt overly tight as there is a 1-1.5cm gap between the tyre
and seatpost. always assumed track bikes would be as tight as
possible.

The distance between the wheel and seat tube depends on the length of your
chain!! You need some gap to allow you to push the wheel towards the seat
tube, so you can get the chain off the front chainring, then off the rear
cog, so you can remove the wheel without having to break the chain....

its got clinchers on so that's one less thing to sort out :-)
Suzue 'Sprint' high flange hubs and Mavic Ma-2 (i think) rims. are
track rims built for braking?

Those rims were commonly used on the road (they're not track-spefiic)

The spoking pattern is standard but with wierd little 'bands' holding
the overlapping spokes tightly together. never seen that. strength i
guess...

They're little bits of wire, with solder (tied and soldered spokes). They
used to belive that that made a wheel more rigid (it doesn't). They do help
if you break a spoke though, they don't escape....

How can I get that fork and rear brake bridge drilled to take brakes?
Should I be doing both front and rear brakes to avoid the
base-over-apex dismount in emergency stops?

Just get a fork 2nd hand to use a front brake on, don't worry about a back
brake. You'll want to keep the un-drilled fork for the track, when you give
it a go... *grin*

Cheers
Gemm riding a very unfashionable Raceline track machine.....

Gemma Kernich wrote -

Cheers
Gemm riding a very unfashionable Raceline track machine.....

Gemm -

Howdya like the Raceline - have heard its not a bad machine for a novice on
the track - your views from experience ?

best, Andrew

(remove the .x1 to reply)

"Andrew Price" wrote in message
...

Gemm -

Howdya like the Raceline - have heard its not a bad machine for a novice
on
the track - your views from experience ?

Hi Andrew,
Actually, it wasn't my first track bike (rode a steel one for a season). I
didn't like the build-kit on the Raceline as standard, so haggled with the
shop and ended up just getting frame and fork, and built up the rest with a
miche groupset, wolber singles rims, deda pista bars, zepp stem, etc. The
frame is actually really nice, nice and stiff compared to the noodly steel
one I was on before (I'm a big lass, see previous thread on big arsed
aus.bicycle awards). Email me for more details
can send pics etc.
Apparently this year's Raceline model will be readily available just as a
frame and fork set, in a silver colour (for those sick of white!)
Cheers
Gemma