Can I make an internal geared bike from this 29er?

Sir Ridesalot wrote:

If you were buying a new wheel, you might
find it cheaper to buy a bike that already has the internal gear hub
you want.

I'm the OP

I would replace the entire wheel with hub, etc

And yes I am looking for a winter commuter as well....
hence the knobby BIG tires, etc

Carrying stuff wont be an issue as will use a backpack
for that

I was also kicking around the idea of using this cheap
29er as a base for an eBike

Chalo wrote:

My advice is this: Move somewhere less horrible. Your cycle
maintenance won't be the only thing that gets a lot easier.

Chalo...

Funny you bring that up as I am SERIOUSLY thinking
that!

I live in mid Missouri and am engineering student in
college..... so cant move till June when apartment
lease up and school out.

Know of any good SOUTHERN engineering schools to
transfer to? G

In article
,
Chalo wrote:

Sir Ridesalot wrote:

I commute all year round and I often have to ride my MTB through a
few inches of snow or a couple of inches of that nasty brown
grease-like crap snow turns to when it is salted and not plowed.

My advice is this: Move somewhere less horrible. Your cycle
maintenance won't be the only thing that gets a lot easier.

True words.

(I live in Minnesota... 12" snow Christmas day, 3-4" a few days later,
2" yesterday and -15-20F tonight with wind chills far lower. My bikes
stay inside for about 4 months a year. I probably won't ride a bike
until March. WTF did I move here for in the first place? Not that the
cycling conditions in Chicago- near where I grew up- are really any more
pleasant... Albuquerque. San Diego. There's lots of warm places to
live.)

--
"I wear the cheese, it does not wear me."

On Fri, 08 Jan 2010 15:52:19 -0600, Tim McNamara
wrote:

(I live in Minnesota... 12" snow Christmas day, 3-4" a few days later,
2" yesterday and -15-20F tonight with wind chills far lower. My bikes
stay inside for about 4 months a year. I probably won't ride a bike
until March. WTF did I move here for in the first place?

Cherchez la femme ...

On Jan 8, 5:32*pm, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Jan 7, 11:11*pm, Andre Jute wrote: On Jan 7, 7:52*pm, wrote:

Snipped: ...on a commuter bike when the

days start drawing in.

Secondly, on rough surfaces, nothing rides as serenely as a large
diameter smooth balloon tire -- those knobblies on that bike are
immediately surplus to requirements,...

Hi there.

I commute all year round and I often have to ride my MTB through a few
inches of snow or a couple of inches of that nasty brown grease-like
crap snow turns to when it is salted and not plowed. My MTB is a 24
gears derailleur equipped bicycle.

Depending on where you live you might just be *REAL* glad you have big
knobs on your tires when you go to ride home on your commuter bike and
discover that there are now a few inches of snow where there wasn't
any snow on your commute in that morning. In snow fenders *MIGHT not
be good unless there is a lot of clearance between them and the top of
the tire so that the snow/slush doesn't end up being compacted between
the tire and fender and acting as a drag brake all the way home. ON my
winter commuter I like to have the fender on the rear *ABOVE* the
brake-bridge like piece on my MTB. On the front I removed the the
lower bearing piece on the fork and place the fender there after
drilling it out so it fit snug and then reinstalled the bearing
assembly. That gives fantastic clearance between the tires and the
fenders and I've never had a problem since with snow/slush build up
there. I also made mud flaps that go from the fender to just above the
ground. These mud flaps are made from an old carbon fiber wheel disc
cover that attached to the wheel via Velcro fasteners. Even in the wet
my feet stay dry and the carbon fiber flaps have plenty of yield if
they strike a chunk of hard pack snow or ice fallen from a motor
vehicle wheel well.

To the OP, I don't know if converting that bike to an internal geared
hub would be economically feasible and guess it depends on what hub
you decide to use, the width of the dropouts and how much you are
willing to spend as well as if you are going to do the conversion or
pay a shop to do it for you. Were you thinking about lacing that rim
to the new internal hub? If you were buying a new wheel, you might
find it cheaper to buy a bike that already has the internal gear hub
you want.

Cheers from Peter

On Jan 8, 5:32*pm, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Jan 7, 11:11*pm, Andre Jute wrote: On Jan 7, 7:52*pm, wrote:

Snipped: ...on a commuter bike when the

days start drawing in.

Secondly, on rough surfaces, nothing rides as serenely as a large
diameter smooth balloon tire -- those knobblies on that bike are
immediately surplus to requirements,...

Hi there.

I commute all year round and I often have to ride my MTB through a few
inches of snow or a couple of inches of that nasty brown grease-like
crap snow turns to when it is salted and not plowed. My MTB is a 24
gears derailleur equipped bicycle.

Depending on where you live you might just be *REAL* glad you have big
knobs on your tires when you go to ride home on your commuter bike and
discover that there are now a few inches of snow where there wasn't
any snow on your commute in that morning. In snow fenders *MIGHT not
be good unless there is a lot of clearance between them and the top of
the tire so that the snow/slush doesn't end up being compacted between
the tire and fender and acting as a drag brake all the way home. ON my
winter commuter I like to have the fender on the rear *ABOVE* the
brake-bridge like piece on my MTB. On the front I removed the the
lower bearing piece on the fork and place the fender there after
drilling it out so it fit snug and then reinstalled the bearing
assembly. That gives fantastic clearance between the tires and the
fenders and I've never had a problem since with snow/slush build up
there. I also made mud flaps that go from the fender to just above the
ground. These mud flaps are made from an old carbon fiber wheel disc
cover that attached to the wheel via Velcro fasteners. Even in the wet
my feet stay dry and the carbon fiber flaps have plenty of yield if
they strike a chunk of hard pack snow or ice fallen from a motor
vehicle wheel well.

Hell, Peter, you're assuming the OP is as hard a case as you. Not
everyone is so macho. Some of us have the sense to stay home in killer
weather like you describe. Me, I stay inside when I open my curtains
and the garden is white with either frost or snow.

To the OP, I don't know if converting that bike to an internal geared
hub would be economically feasible and guess it depends on what hub
you decide to use, the width of the dropouts and how much you are
willing to spend as well as if you are going to do the conversion or
pay a shop to do it for you. Were you thinking about lacing that rim
to the new internal hub? If you were buying a new wheel, you might
find it cheaper to buy a bike that already has the internal gear hub
you want.

I think bringing that bike up to spec will cost the same as buying an
Electra city bike, which on Jay Bollyn's evidence is definitely a good
bike for year-round commuting.

Andre Jute
Visit Jute on Bicycles at
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/...20CYCLING.html

Per Tim McNamara:
I live in Minnesota...

In the "Extras" section of the "Fargo" DVD, one of the Cohen
brothers describes Minnesota as "Siberia with family
restaurants".
--
PeteCresswell

Per :
I was also kicking around the idea of using this cheap
29er as a base for an eBike

I'm several weeks along on that journey.

Chose an old, unused, Ellsworth ISIS frame as the victim.

In retrospect, it seems like the more el-cheapo the frame the
better because:

- Steel dropouts are required. I wound up laying out $70 for a
Surly Instigator fork but I'd really feel more comfortable with a
rear-wheel motor instead of FWD - fewer things to go wrong and
greatly-diminished consequences when they do.

- Apparently cheap bikes have 9.5 mm slots whereas higher-end
bikes have 9 mm slots. The ebike motor axle is 10mm, causing
issues both with fit and the anti-rotation washers riding up over
the lawyer lips - which causes axle nuts to work loose in use...
which is a Very Bad Thing for several reasons. Aftermarket
Torque arms are, IMHO, required in any case.


Before somebody jumps all over me for abandoning the purity of
the human-powered experience, let me cite the rationale for my
little adventu

I've got cold-weather bronchial issues. Mouth breathing under
about 40 degrees F makes me cough my brains out all night.

Nose breathing, I'm ok down into the high twenties.... so the
ebike gets me through the winter using the motor as needed to
keep from mouth breathing.


Also, an unanticipated upside: on a warm day, after a few days on
the ebike, I get on my faux single speed (Surly 1x1
w/internal-geared hub) and it feels like a 17-pound carbon fiber
wunderbike.

The Surly is *not* a light build... steel frame, 8-pound rear
wheel, disc brakes, sprung saddle, BMX flats.... but it sure
*feels* light compared to 67 pounds of bike/motor/battery.
--
PeteCresswell

In article ,
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote:

Per Tim McNamara:
I live in Minnesota...

In the "Extras" section of the "Fargo" DVD, one of the Cohen
^^^^^
Coen

brothers describes Minnesota as "Siberia with family
restaurants".

--
Michael Press

Chalo Colina wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:
I commute all year round and I often have to ride my MTB through a few
inches of snow or a couple of inches of that nasty brown grease-like
crap snow turns to when it is salted and not plowed.

My advice is this: Move somewhere less horrible. Your cycle
maintenance won't be the only thing that gets a lot easier.

Agreed. When I lived in Quebec City, it was cold enough the only slushy
days were during the spring melt.

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007