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#12
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 9:27:18 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-02-15 11:03, wrote: On Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 12:25:29 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-14 09:22, AMuzi wrote: but for some of you... https://cyclingindustry.news/new-pat...n-bike-system/ And then, way out in the boonies, your battery gives out. The guys writing that patent may not have much of a clue about serious MTB riding. Have you ever ridden or lived with a bike with electronic shifting? I doubt it. No but I have met a guy who had a battery fail mid-ride and then the front DR quit. Which was just peachy in the mountainous region. ... Because anyone who has owned and ridden a Shimano Di2 bike would fall on their butt laughing at your nonsense about a battery giving out. Ha Ha Ho Ho. On my Di2 road bike the batteries last 2 to 3 years between charges. Again that is 2 to 3 YEARS between charges. I suspect you replace your shift cables more often than I charge the battery on my Di2 bike. Ha Ha Ho Ho. And just for your information. When a Di2 battery gets weak and loses the ability to function, the front derailleur shifting will stop first. Exactly. And I don't want that to happen. Most definitely not on my MTB. ... And then hundreds/thousands of shifts later, the rear shifting will stop. So you have weeks or months of warning long before the rear derailleur stops shifting with Di2. IMO there is stuff that mankind doesn't need so badly. Power windows, power locks, automatic transmissions in cars. Or electric shifters on bikes. I've got none of that and I don't want any of it. Fine, but the likelihood of running out your battery on current Di2 is about the same risk as breaking a cable. And unlike a broken cable, there is a flashing warning light before a Di2 battery dies. You can hand-wring about most anything on a bike. Those idiots! Why did they put spokes in wheels! They break! Chains, derailleurs, linkages -- look at all the stuff people break on their MTBs all the time. You should ride a hard-tail SS with balloon tires if you're looking for bullet-proof. -- Jay Beattie. |
#13
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On 2018-02-16 09:51, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 9:27:18 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-15 11:03, wrote: On Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 12:25:29 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-14 09:22, AMuzi wrote: but for some of you... https://cyclingindustry.news/new-pat...n-bike-system/ And then, way out in the boonies, your battery gives out. The guys writing that patent may not have much of a clue about serious MTB riding. Have you ever ridden or lived with a bike with electronic shifting? I doubt it. No but I have met a guy who had a battery fail mid-ride and then the front DR quit. Which was just peachy in the mountainous region. ... Because anyone who has owned and ridden a Shimano Di2 bike would fall on their butt laughing at your nonsense about a battery giving out. Ha Ha Ho Ho. On my Di2 road bike the batteries last 2 to 3 years between charges. Again that is 2 to 3 YEARS between charges. I suspect you replace your shift cables more often than I charge the battery on my Di2 bike. Ha Ha Ho Ho. And just for your information. When a Di2 battery gets weak and loses the ability to function, the front derailleur shifting will stop first. Exactly. And I don't want that to happen. Most definitely not on my MTB. ... And then hundreds/thousands of shifts later, the rear shifting will stop. So you have weeks or months of warning long before the rear derailleur stops shifting with Di2. IMO there is stuff that mankind doesn't need so badly. Power windows, power locks, automatic transmissions in cars. Or electric shifters on bikes. I've got none of that and I don't want any of it. Fine, but the likelihood of running out your battery on current Di2 is about the same risk as breaking a cable. And unlike a broken cable, there is a flashing warning light before a Di2 battery dies. I have heard different stories. Maybe the technology has improved by now but what people said was that frequent FD shifting eats a lot of battery juice. On my MTB I am shifting the FD all the time. Often hundreds of shifts per ride, much more so than the RD. Similar on the road bike but that sees way less shifting. I can see electric shifting work on a road bike. But why? Heck, I don't even miss the index shifting I have on the MTB when I am riding my road bike with friction shifters. It suffices. Young riders, different story. Yesterday I came up on another rider at the onset of an incline. KKKRACK ... rat-tat-tat ... clunk ... KRRRRK. Turns out his dad had given him his mid-80's Medici which had lived as a garage queen. Chrome plated fork and seat stays, almost zero miles on it. What a bike! But ... friction shifters. It seemed like someone driving a truck with non-synchronized gears for the first time. Actually, in some situations ye olde friction shifters are better than anything that came later. In situations where you must quickly shift from a very high gear straight to almost the lowest, that can be achieved in about one second simple by an opposite flick of thumb and index finger on the downtube levers. Only with friction shifters. Ok, a Rohloff or a similar hub transmission could also do that. Can Di2? You can hand-wring about most anything on a bike. Those idiots! Why did they put spokes in wheels! They break! Chains, derailleurs, linkages -- look at all the stuff people break on their MTBs all the time. You should ride a hard-tail SS with balloon tires if you're looking for bullet-proof. No, just needs to be sturdier, that's all. For example, O-ringed chains as the motorcyclist have would be nice, cuts down on maintenance effort. Other stuff has become available by now, such as ceramic-based brake pads (so far only from Asian sources). -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#14
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
Oh thank god! More skills I no longer have to trouble myself to learn
and master! Forth ignorami! First Congress, then the Oval Office and now the ultimate dumb ceiling is smashed: mountain biking! No longer will the smart and expert be better than me at doing things! |
#15
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On 2/16/2018 5:16 PM, Tim McNamara wrote:
Oh thank god! More skills I no longer have to trouble myself to learn and master! Forth ignorami! First Congress, then the Oval Office and now the ultimate dumb ceiling is smashed: mountain biking! No longer will the smart and expert be better than me at doing things! https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/23585.Why_Not_Me_ -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#16
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On Fri, 16 Feb 2018 09:27:28 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2018-02-15 11:03, wrote: On Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 12:25:29 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-14 09:22, AMuzi wrote: but for some of you... https://cyclingindustry.news/new-pat...n-bike-system/ And then, way out in the boonies, your battery gives out. The guys writing that patent may not have much of a clue about serious MTB riding. Have you ever ridden or lived with a bike with electronic shifting? I doubt it. No but I have met a guy who had a battery fail mid-ride and then the front DR quit. Which was just peachy in the mountainous region. ... Because anyone who has owned and ridden a Shimano Di2 bike would fall on their butt laughing at your nonsense about a battery giving out. Ha Ha Ho Ho. On my Di2 road bike the batteries last 2 to 3 years between charges. Again that is 2 to 3 YEARS between charges. I suspect you replace your shift cables more often than I charge the battery on my Di2 bike. Ha Ha Ho Ho. And just for your information. When a Di2 battery gets weak and loses the ability to function, the front derailleur shifting will stop first. Exactly. And I don't want that to happen. Most definitely not on my MTB. ... And then hundreds/thousands of shifts later, the rear shifting will stop. So you have weeks or months of warning long before the rear derailleur stops shifting with Di2. IMO there is stuff that mankind doesn't need so badly. Power windows, power locks, automatic transmissions in cars. Or electric shifters on bikes. I've got none of that and I don't want any of it. I think I *might* argue in favor of the auto transmission option as it is my understanding that it is possible for the auto transmission to give better fuel consumption then hand shifting. However, I believe that this depends on both the driver and the use that the vehicle is put to. -- Cheers, John B. |
#17
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On Fri, 16 Feb 2018 10:32:17 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2018-02-16 09:51, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 9:27:18 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-15 11:03, wrote: On Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 12:25:29 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-14 09:22, AMuzi wrote: but for some of you... https://cyclingindustry.news/new-pat...n-bike-system/ And then, way out in the boonies, your battery gives out. The guys writing that patent may not have much of a clue about serious MTB riding. Have you ever ridden or lived with a bike with electronic shifting? I doubt it. No but I have met a guy who had a battery fail mid-ride and then the front DR quit. Which was just peachy in the mountainous region. ... Because anyone who has owned and ridden a Shimano Di2 bike would fall on their butt laughing at your nonsense about a battery giving out. Ha Ha Ho Ho. On my Di2 road bike the batteries last 2 to 3 years between charges. Again that is 2 to 3 YEARS between charges. I suspect you replace your shift cables more often than I charge the battery on my Di2 bike. Ha Ha Ho Ho. And just for your information. When a Di2 battery gets weak and loses the ability to function, the front derailleur shifting will stop first. Exactly. And I don't want that to happen. Most definitely not on my MTB. ... And then hundreds/thousands of shifts later, the rear shifting will stop. So you have weeks or months of warning long before the rear derailleur stops shifting with Di2. IMO there is stuff that mankind doesn't need so badly. Power windows, power locks, automatic transmissions in cars. Or electric shifters on bikes. I've got none of that and I don't want any of it. Fine, but the likelihood of running out your battery on current Di2 is about the same risk as breaking a cable. And unlike a broken cable, there is a flashing warning light before a Di2 battery dies. I have heard different stories. Maybe the technology has improved by now but what people said was that frequent FD shifting eats a lot of battery juice. On my MTB I am shifting the FD all the time. Often hundreds of shifts per ride, much more so than the RD. Similar on the road bike but that sees way less shifting. I can see electric shifting work on a road bike. But why? Heck, I don't even miss the index shifting I have on the MTB when I am riding my road bike with friction shifters. It suffices. Young riders, different story. Yesterday I came up on another rider at the onset of an incline. KKKRACK ... rat-tat-tat ... clunk ... KRRRRK. Turns out his dad had given him his mid-80's Medici which had lived as a garage queen. Chrome plated fork and seat stays, almost zero miles on it. What a bike! But ... friction shifters. It seemed like someone driving a truck with non-synchronized gears for the first time. It is said that someone once asked Edie Marckx whether he ever missed a shift with his down tube shifters. He replied, "I haven't missed a shift since I was 12 years old" Sounds as though your young rider needs more practice. Actually, in some situations ye olde friction shifters are better than anything that came later. In situations where you must quickly shift from a very high gear straight to almost the lowest, that can be achieved in about one second simple by an opposite flick of thumb and index finger on the downtube levers. Only with friction shifters. Ok, a Rohloff or a similar hub transmission could also do that. Can Di2? You can hand-wring about most anything on a bike. Those idiots! Why did they put spokes in wheels! They break! Chains, derailleurs, linkages -- look at all the stuff people break on their MTBs all the time. You should ride a hard-tail SS with balloon tires if you're looking for bullet-proof. No, just needs to be sturdier, that's all. For example, O-ringed chains as the motorcyclist have would be nice, cuts down on maintenance effort. Other stuff has become available by now, such as ceramic-based brake pads (so far only from Asian sources). -- Cheers, John B. |
#18
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 7:32:10 PM UTC+1, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-02-16 09:51, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 9:27:18 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-15 11:03, wrote: On Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 12:25:29 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-14 09:22, AMuzi wrote: but for some of you... https://cyclingindustry.news/new-pat...n-bike-system/ And then, way out in the boonies, your battery gives out. The guys writing that patent may not have much of a clue about serious MTB riding. Have you ever ridden or lived with a bike with electronic shifting? I doubt it. No but I have met a guy who had a battery fail mid-ride and then the front DR quit. Which was just peachy in the mountainous region. ... Because anyone who has owned and ridden a Shimano Di2 bike would fall on their butt laughing at your nonsense about a battery giving out. Ha Ha Ho Ho. On my Di2 road bike the batteries last 2 to 3 years between charges. Again that is 2 to 3 YEARS between charges. I suspect you replace your shift cables more often than I charge the battery on my Di2 bike. Ha Ha Ho Ho. And just for your information. When a Di2 battery gets weak and loses the ability to function, the front derailleur shifting will stop first. Exactly. And I don't want that to happen. Most definitely not on my MTB. ... And then hundreds/thousands of shifts later, the rear shifting will stop. So you have weeks or months of warning long before the rear derailleur stops shifting with Di2. IMO there is stuff that mankind doesn't need so badly. Power windows, power locks, automatic transmissions in cars. Or electric shifters on bikes. I've got none of that and I don't want any of it. Fine, but the likelihood of running out your battery on current Di2 is about the same risk as breaking a cable. And unlike a broken cable, there is a flashing warning light before a Di2 battery dies. I have heard different stories. Maybe the technology has improved by now but what people said was that frequent FD shifting eats a lot of battery juice. On my MTB I am shifting the FD all the time. Often hundreds of shifts per ride, much more so than the RD. Similar on the road bike but that sees way less shifting. I can see electric shifting work on a road bike. But why? Heck, I don't even miss the index shifting I have on the MTB when I am riding my road bike with friction shifters. It suffices. You don't know what you are talking about. I shift the crap out of my Di2 system on my crossbike off road, front and back. I charge the battery once at the beginning of the season (november), end of the season is end of februari, battery indicator is still green, leave the bike as is during off season (march to october), battery indicator is still green or green flashing. I hose my bike at the carwash after every muddy ride which is almost every time without problems. Everything for 4 years now. DI2 is a f*cking reliable system. Young riders, different story. Yesterday I came up on another rider at the onset of an incline. KKKRACK ... rat-tat-tat ... clunk ... KRRRRK. Turns out his dad had given him his mid-80's Medici which had lived as a garage queen. Chrome plated fork and seat stays, almost zero miles on it. What a bike! But ... friction shifters. It seemed like someone driving a truck with non-synchronized gears for the first time. Actually, in some situations ye olde friction shifters are better than anything that came later. In situations where you must quickly shift from a very high gear straight to almost the lowest, that can be achieved in about one second simple by an opposite flick of thumb and index finger on the downtube levers. Only with friction shifters. Ok, a Rohloff or a similar hub transmission could also do that. Can Di2? Of course. With downtube shifters you have to reach down, move the lever and the chain still has to travel from the smallest sprocket to the largest sprocket or the other way. With DI2 you don't have to reach down. You just push and hold the switch and the chain travels in one movement from the smallest sprocket to the largest or the other way round while you pedaling. Keeping your hands on the handlebar is a huge advantage (faster and safer)in many situations compared to downtube friction shifters. Lou |
#19
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On Saturday, February 17, 2018 at 1:28:45 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 7:32:10 PM UTC+1, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-16 09:51, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, February 16, 2018 at 9:27:18 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-15 11:03, wrote: On Wednesday, February 14, 2018 at 12:25:29 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote: On 2018-02-14 09:22, AMuzi wrote: but for some of you... https://cyclingindustry.news/new-pat...n-bike-system/ And then, way out in the boonies, your battery gives out. The guys writing that patent may not have much of a clue about serious MTB riding. Have you ever ridden or lived with a bike with electronic shifting? I doubt it. No but I have met a guy who had a battery fail mid-ride and then the front DR quit. Which was just peachy in the mountainous region. ... Because anyone who has owned and ridden a Shimano Di2 bike would fall on their butt laughing at your nonsense about a battery giving out. Ha Ha Ho Ho. On my Di2 road bike the batteries last 2 to 3 years between charges. Again that is 2 to 3 YEARS between charges. I suspect you replace your shift cables more often than I charge the battery on my Di2 bike. Ha Ha Ho Ho. And just for your information. When a Di2 battery gets weak and loses the ability to function, the front derailleur shifting will stop first. Exactly. And I don't want that to happen. Most definitely not on my MTB. ... And then hundreds/thousands of shifts later, the rear shifting will stop. So you have weeks or months of warning long before the rear derailleur stops shifting with Di2. IMO there is stuff that mankind doesn't need so badly. Power windows, power locks, automatic transmissions in cars. Or electric shifters on bikes. I've got none of that and I don't want any of it. Fine, but the likelihood of running out your battery on current Di2 is about the same risk as breaking a cable. And unlike a broken cable, there is a flashing warning light before a Di2 battery dies. I have heard different stories. Maybe the technology has improved by now but what people said was that frequent FD shifting eats a lot of battery juice. On my MTB I am shifting the FD all the time. Often hundreds of shifts per ride, much more so than the RD. Similar on the road bike but that sees way less shifting. I can see electric shifting work on a road bike. But why? Heck, I don't even miss the index shifting I have on the MTB when I am riding my road bike with friction shifters. It suffices. You don't know what you are talking about. I shift the crap out of my Di2 system on my crossbike off road, front and back. I charge the battery once at the beginning of the season (november), end of the season is end of februari, battery indicator is still green, leave the bike as is during off season (march to october), battery indicator is still green or green flashing.. I hose my bike at the carwash after every muddy ride which is almost every time without problems. Everything for 4 years now. DI2 is a f*cking reliable system. Young riders, different story. Yesterday I came up on another rider at the onset of an incline. KKKRACK ... rat-tat-tat ... clunk ... KRRRRK. Turns out his dad had given him his mid-80's Medici which had lived as a garage queen. Chrome plated fork and seat stays, almost zero miles on it. What a bike! But ... friction shifters. It seemed like someone driving a truck with non-synchronized gears for the first time. Actually, in some situations ye olde friction shifters are better than anything that came later. In situations where you must quickly shift from a very high gear straight to almost the lowest, that can be achieved in about one second simple by an opposite flick of thumb and index finger on the downtube levers. Only with friction shifters. Ok, a Rohloff or a similar hub transmission could also do that. Can Di2? Of course. With downtube shifters you have to reach down, move the lever and the chain still has to travel from the smallest sprocket to the largest sprocket or the other way. With DI2 you don't have to reach down. You just push and hold the switch and the chain travels in one movement from the smallest sprocket to the largest or the other way round while you pedaling. Keeping your hands on the handlebar is a huge advantage (faster and safer)in many situations compared to downtube friction shifters. Lou STI changed racing. I raced with DT friction shifters for over a decade. There was nothing better about them. All downside. The only benefit in daily riding was simplicity and durability. Your ****ty DT shifters lasted forever, and they were easy to work on. Oh, another upside of friction shifters is that they were great excuses for losing a race like "I missed a shift," or "I was sprinting out of the saddle in the wrong gear," etc., etc. They would also auto shift when the levers spontaneously loosened. -- Jay Beattie. |
#20
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my fixie doesn't need improvement
On Fri, 16 Feb 2018 09:27:28 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2018-02-15 11:03, wrote: Have you ever ridden or lived with a bike with electronic shifting? I doubt it. No but I have met a guy who had a battery fail mid-ride and then the front DR quit. Which was just peachy in the mountainous region. I don't see a problem: https://www.google.com/search?q=usb++hand+crank+charger&tbm=isch https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hand+crank+usb+charger Or, build your own: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXmqs8DIHf8 (4:04) -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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